From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 780
Date: Monday, November 12, 2001 3:18 AM

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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Reverse
From: "DMC Joe" <>

2. melted heater hose
From: Peter Lucas <>

3. Re: need engineering info to make sway bar
From: Bob Brandys <>

4. Re: climate control not funtioning properly

5. Re: Auto Trans Fluid Changes...

6. Newbies and Workshop manual

7. Re: climate control not funtioning properly
From: Scott Arnold <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 20:38:30 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Reverse

The manual transmission reverse light switch in connected via one
green/brown wire and one light green wire. The light green is 12 v sourced
from fuse #16 and the
green brown wire leads the reverse lamps at the tail light circuit board

DeLorean Help
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
To: <>; <>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 8:03 AM
Subject: [DML] Reverse

> Hi all
> Ok... so my reversing lamps don't work, and never have since I bought the
car... Need to do them next.
> The switch on the gear box has now wires going to it... thats a start.


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 21:15:56 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <>
Subject: melted heater hose

As part of my ongoing quest to discover and demonstrate every possible 
way to screw up a simple job, I respectfully submit the following report:

Last summer I decided to buy some peace of mind and replace my water 
pump and all coolant hoses. Doing all those hoses were tedious but not 
difficult. When it was all done, I figured I was set for awhile.

So, I was pretty annoyed last week when my car sprung a fairly major 
coolant leak. Turned out to be the heater hose that connects the heater 
vacuum valve on the right front of the engine to the metal pipe in the 
right-hand side of the frame (under the dust shield). What happened was 
that when I routed that particular hose, I let it touch the front 
exhaust pipe where it emerges from the right-hand exhaust manifold. The 
pipe has a heat shield, but I was able to carefully avoid that. As a 
result, the hose spend the summer slowly melting its way toward the 
aforementioned leak.

Just one more thing to add to the "worth checking for" list.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 20:20:18 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: need engineering info to make sway bar


I installed a rear sway bar in my car.  I think it handles better.



Message: 4
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 02:57:20 -0000
Subject: Re: climate control not funtioning properly

The two most obvious things to check are the vacuum hose that runs 
from the engine to the vacuum reservoir to the mode switch and the 
mode switch. Refer to N:01:02 and on in the Workshop manual. My guess 
is that the hose comming from the engine got knocked off. (It's really 
easy to do as there is little room to work in that area and it is hard 
to see). If your vacuum hoses are hard and brittle just replace them 
all. A vacuum leak affects idle quality, fuel mileage, engine life, 
and power.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I have found that it seems I have no vacuum control of my climate 
control system. When I switch to defrost it still blows in my face. It 
seems I am getting no vacuum functions, but everything is hooked up 
properly. Any ideas?
> Casey
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 03:06:04 -0000
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Fluid Changes...

The correct procedure for checking the fluid level is in the Workshop 
Manual G:04:02. I would also add that before checking move the gear 
selector through all positions. As for finding the exact mark, I first 
remove the dipstick and wipe it off. Then I reinsert, wait about 2 
seconds and remove holding the dipstick horizontal. Look at both sides 
for the first dry spot from the bottom, this is the level in the 
trans. It is BAD to be too high or too low. Don't forget on automatics 
you also must check the level in the final drive. Refer to G:05:01 
for the correct procedure to do that. Without dismantling the trans 
about all you can remove is 2 qts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., pbmain_at_dml_m... wrote:
> Newbie question here..
> When changing the Auto Trans fluid, the workshop manual mentions 
> draining, then adding 2 Qts of oil, then "add additional fluid to 
> bring th efluid level to the proper mark on the dipstick".  
> How much over the 2 qts is typical to add?  I added just over 2 qts 
> and it seems ok, but with all the marks on the dipstick and the fact 
> that it doesn't seem real clear cut on where exactly the level is on 
> the dipstick (it's pretty much everywhere on that thing)...I just 
> wanted to make sure I was in the right ballpark.
> Pete


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 03:19:33 -0000
Subject: Newbies and Workshop manual

One of the first purcheses for a new owner if he doesn't have one with 
the car is a Workshop Manual and a Parts Manual. They aren't expensive 
and they can give you a starting point for many of the things you will 
need to do on the car. They can be obtained from all of the Delorean 
vendors. Even if you don't understand all of it or don't even do your 
own work they will be a valuable source of info for whoever is working 
on the car. No one except the mechanics that only work on Deloreans 
can give you torque values from memory or specs on the fuel system or 
part numbers. Too many people think they can work on cars without 
refering to the manuals and that is just one of the many reasons 
things don't get fixed right. Manufactures go to great expense to 
print these things and they wouldn't do it if they didn't have to. We 
as the Delorean community are lucky to have as good a manual as we do 
for a 2 year production "Orphan". Mnay of the questions on the DML can 
be answered by refering to the manual and I try to refer to it in my 
responses. It helps to standardize the language, techniques, methods 
and procedures. When you order parts it is especially useful as there 
can be no confusing what part you need if you have the part number! If 
after refering to the Manual you still have questions then at least 
you are using the correct terminology.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 22:47:14 -0600
From: Scott Arnold <>
Subject: Re: climate control not funtioning properly

The climate control switch works by means of a rubber-like disk molded into a maze-like vacuum tunnel.  This disk is attached to a plastic part.  Togther, they spin over top of a piece of metal.  The piece of metal has holes
drilled into it, each hole for a different vacuum port.  Much like mine, what probably happened is that the rubber disk broke free of the plastic part, and is no longer turning like it should, thus locking your climate controls
into a single position.  You will probably need to either rebuild your switch or better yet, buy a new one (if they are available).

If you will be removing your switch -- to access it, you may be able to remove the radio which may allow for easy access to the back of the climate control switch (on mine, I just have a rectangular opening in the console for a
standard DIN style radio, so removing the radio gives me a nice opening in the console).    The knobs for the climate controls will just pull off the front.  Then there is a screw holding on the cosmetic dash faceplate (this
screw also helps hold on the climate control switch).  Once this is removed, there will be one more screw holding the climate control switch in place.  On the back of the switch, there is a single big plug for all of the vacuum
lines (do NOT remove the vacuum lines individually, otherwise you may get them confused; they all pull off together via the big plug).  There are also three electrical connections that are used for the A/C.  On mine, these were
just spade plugs, so be careful to note which one goes where before you unplug them.  Your switch should now be free.  The switch can be dismantled, so you can try to rebuild it if you like.  I rebuilt mine by scoring the plastic
and then using epoxy to hold the rubber to the plastic, and then I also added a very small amount of lubricant to the metal piece.  If you add lubricant of any kind, be sure that it will not corrode rubber, and also be sure that
the lubricant does not end up blocking up any of the vacuum ports.  Then, reassemble and test.  I'm not sure how long this fix will last -- mine is still working, but I only rebuilt it a month ago.

Hope this helps,

Scott Arnold

Cameron Putsch wrote:

> I have found that it seems I have no vacuum control of my climate control system. When I switch to defrost it still blows in my face. It seems I am getting no vacuum functions, but everything is hooked up properly. Any ideas?
> Casey


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