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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 782
Date: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 6:58 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: TA Bolt questions

2. Re: Rear anti-sway bars for sale

3. Pre-purchase info requested
From: "Rob Thomas" <>

4. RE: trailing arm bolts
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <>

5. RE: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering

6. Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering


8. Re: Mirror-heating wire
From: "DMC Joe" <>

9. air induction manifold removal - then what?

10. Re: TA Bolt questions

11. High Speed Accelleration...

12. Fuel Pressure Gauge kit
From: "Eric" <>

13. urethane bushings?
From: "Ralf Philipp" <>

14. gas ran over
From: "K Creason" <>

15. virus found
From: "marvin" <>

16. BOSCH Replacement Parts for DeLorean
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>

17. Re: High Speed Accelleration...

18. PRV engine in LANCIA THEMA
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>

19. Re: High Speed Accelleration...
From: "Walter" <>

20. Fender fixed, now what

21. Re: urethane bushings?

22. DOC Site Update
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

23. Re: Light Switch Modification (was: Headlights Switch Problem)
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>

24. Re: air induction manifold removal - then what?
From: Peter Lucas <>

25. Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge kit
From: "Walter" <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 01:27:07 -0000
Subject: Re: TA Bolt questions

Les - I absolutely agree with you on this ... we need to get input 
from some other people who have been involved in this issue before.  
Also, please review a post that I just made with regards to preload 
due to bolt torqueing.  I will respectfully ask that the more 
experienced people out there who choose to provide us with their 
valuable experience and input on this topic should have some rationale 
for what they do, or have done.  I'm definitely not the sharpest tool 
in the shed, but I really think that I'm pretty close to the mark on 
this particular topic.  But ... I'm open to any and all input.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I'm wondering why those truly in the know don't post.  Where are our
> vendors, those who do repair work in quantity, what do they think, 
what do they do?  I can't believe they check every TA bolt on every 
car that comes in


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 01:40:43 -0000
Subject: Re: Rear anti-sway bars for sale

I bought an Addco rear sway bar "way back when" (1991 ?), and the 
improvement in handling is incredible.  When I bought mine, they had 
just developed it, and it didn't fit all that great, but I 
re-engineered the attachments to the trailing arms, and have been very 
pleased with the performance.  I assume that they have cleaned up the 
minor fit problems by now.  I highly recommend this add-on for those 
who want to experience handling the way it was supposed to be.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:54:07 -0800
From: "Rob Thomas" <>
Subject: Pre-purchase info requested

Hey all...

I joined the list to get some pre-info on the DMC-12 before I purchase one
this next year and to make some good contacts.  I intend to keep my DeLorean
fairly stock, but there are a few items I think need updating for what I
will be using the car my questions are as follows:

I have searched posts about your aftermarket rim setup and it seems to be
discussed to death but  it seems that no one has posted any real numbers...

For all you guys that have aftermarket wheels: what offset did you get on
your rims (F&R) and what size spacers did you use?  Or at the very least
from (ANY) owner, can you tell me the numbers stamped on the back of the OEM
wheels?  I know the OEM fronts are 14x6 (4-100) and the rears 15x8 (4-100),
but not sure of the offsets.

I am interested in the sway bar updates Walt has posted.  Does anyone one
know if the DeLorean suspension is borrowed from other vehicles (Lotus,
etc.)?  I am interested in a fully adjustable coilover setup for weekend
track use and auto-crossing.  I've seen some of the cross-reference info
floating around the net, but it seems vague in some areas.

I am sure I will have more questions in the future, but hopefully I can shed
some more light on this.

Thanks for your time...

Rob Thomas


Do You Yahoo!?

Get your free address at


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 19:20:34 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <>
Subject: RE: trailing arm bolts

Walt said:
> the problem is more than weak
> bolts and soft washers.  Additional weak components include the metal sleeve
> in the rubber bushing and the rubber bushing itself.  If a trailing arm bolt
> is over-tightened, then the sleeve in the bushing starts to crush.  At
> proper torque, the sleeve is only a couple of foot-pounds away from
> crushing.  As for the rubber bushing -- I do not like the idea that two
> little rubber doughnuts are transferring most of the engine's horse power to
> the chassis.  This rubber permanently deforms with use.  Rubber has many
> good uses, but not here!
> Toby, if you are going to come out with a kit of new bolts & washers, how
> about coming up with a new bracket that holds the trailing arm bolts from
> both sides?  This should significantly reduce the bending force on the bolt
> by reducing the length of the lever arm (effectively cutting it in half).
> Also, I see no point in even having any rubber in there.  Wouldn't a steel
> bearing make more sense?

Some years ago there was such a bracket available.  But unfortunately the
answer isn't that simple.  If you look at the geometry of the rear
suspension you will notice that the upper and lower links are a different
length.  I believe the purpose is (remember I'm a civil, not mechanical,
engineer) to make the contact patch of the tire remain in the same relative
position on the ground as the tire moves up and down.  But by so doing the
trailing arm which extends forward must then twist as it moves up and down.
Something in that forward joint must be able to flex.  1963 and later
Corvettes solved this problem with a rubber bushing in the end of the arm,
with the bolt supported on both ends.  They survived huge amounts of HP,
torque, and tire smoking.  But for whatever reason DMC/Lotus put the rubber
bushing on the frame, requiring the outer end of the bolt to be free to
slightly move.  If the rubber bushings are in good condition, and the new
bolts properly torqued, the factory setup should function as designed.  Its
just when the soft original (or currently available replacement) bolts begin
to stretch and bend that you have problems.

Personally, when a Boeing structural materials engineer and hard driving
DeLorean enthusiast of many years says the old ones are a problem and then
goes to this much trouble to have the best possible ones custom made, I
would tend to believe him.  This is not a profit driven venture.  It is
totally based on his desire to provide other owners with the best possible
remedy to a serious problem.  He/we will barely be making enough to cover
phone calls, packaging, going to the P.O., etc. - and if they don't sell we
are stuck with having fronted the production cost.  It will only happen,
though, if he gets enough positive responses.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:51:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering

Dear Group,

I am the proud owner of a pair of "Toby Bolts" (sorry Toby could not resist).  Why is there such a prob with these bolts?  Let me tell you the "Toby Bolts" are some of the finest bolts I have ever seen.  Toby has put alot of work into these and let me tell ya this guy knows his stuff.  He is a member (vice pres.) of the Pacfic Northwest DeLorean Club and is always looking to get more (performance)out of the car and with this "FIX" we (the DeLorean community) can benifit from his knowledge of engineering and the DeLorean automobile.  Stop talking about it and upgrade to the "Toby Bolt Trailing Arm Bolt FIX" today.

jim sawyer
vin 4149   

Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop_at_dml_Netscape!

Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 03:54:13 -0000
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering

I can't speak for all of the venders. I know that Rob Grady has a 
higher tensile strength bolt and nut he recomends. Also way back in 
old Delorean Worlds there was a vender pushing a bracket that he 
claimed "improved" the system and prevented bending or breaking the 
TAB. I have to agree with a post that mentioned getting a harder and 
stronger bolt may mean that instead of a gradual failure it would just 
shear off when pushed to it's limit. (Being harder it also means 
brittler). Replacing the rubber pivot bushing with a less compliant 
ureathane may help improve handling but at the cost of more noise and 
vibration being transmitted into the frame. If this is a way to go 
then you must make the metal tube (spacer) inside strong enough (thick 
enough) to withstand the higher compressive stresses. You will also 
need hardened shims (washers) so they aren't squished. A heim joint 
would have the advantage of no preload so when you twist the joint it 
isn't trying so hard to return to it's neutral position. A ureathane 
joint made so the ureathane can swivel around the metal spacer could 
do the same thing. On many older cars there are venders that sell 
urathane bushings to upgrade the suspension (take alot of the 
looseness and compiance out) to improve handling and stiffen up the 
steering and suspension. Ureathane is also less prone to aging and 
damage from oil and gas. In all cases it makes the ride harsher 
(stiffer) but more responsive. BTW the workshop manual calls for 55 
ft/lbs see K:08:02-K:09:01. In some cases torque values are not 
created so much for the fastener as for the components you are trying 
to fasten together. I think in this case the limiting factor is the 
metal spacer tube in the pivot bushing. In most cases unless 
specifically called out torque values are for CLEAN, DRY threads. When 
using bolts and nuts close to their yield point or a critical fastener 
it is never a good idea to reuse (retorque) more than a minimum # of 
times. Every time you torque a bolt and nut you stretch them a little. 
After too many cycles you will just pull it apart or rip the threads 
out of the nut. On many of the newer cars where many bolts and nuts 
are tightened to high levels the manuals warn you not to reuse the 
fastener. (Another reason to refer to the manual for the specific car 
you work on!)BTW how often have you ever seen mechanics use a 
CALIBRATED (in the last 10 years at least) torque wrench on suspension 
fasteners outside of wheel lugs! There is much more variation in 
torque then you think!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 04:04:28 -0000
Subject: Re: TYRE WEAR

If you wore the tires (tyres) out unevenly then you would be wise to 
have the rear alignment (thrust angle) checked and adjusted if needed. 
 The procedure is explained in workshop manual K:08:01-02. The shop 
needs to have a 4-wheel alignment rack so he can measure the rear toe 
(thrust angle). Most shops today now have them as most modern cars 
require a 4-wheel alignment. Don't let him tell you he can't do the 
car because it isn't in his database. Just about all machines have the 
capability for the operater to manually enter custom settings into the 
machine. At the same time it would be wise to replace the trailing arm 
bolts (TAB'S). While it is up on the rack take the time to inspect all 
(4) c-v boots and everything else that you can't see except when 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 00:27:41 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Mirror-heating wire

Yes; the mirror heater wires are powered whenever the ignition is in the
acc. "on" position through fuse # 9.

As to your question concerning my absence from the DML; we are currently in
the process of opening a new web store which will include diagnostics,
service information and repair procedures on individual parts. This has been
taking up all of my spare time and will continue to do so for several more
weeks. Thanks for your concern.

DeLorean Help

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>
Subject: [DML] Mirror-heating wire

> I'd still like to know wheter or not the Green/white wires near
> the mirrors in the doors are actually powered or not.
> JAN van de Wouw


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 03:41:33 EST
Subject: air induction manifold removal - then what?

Hey guys,

my car is currently in winter storage.  i found a very clever way to work on 
my car this winter - i rented a 10x20 ft storage garage with a single light 
bulb in the wall for $60/mo.  i took the light bulb out and put a y-socket in 
and put three prong power sockets into it.  now i have a trouble light and a 
space heater in my garage!  needless to say, i am using this opportunity to 
do a lot of time-consuming jobs that i didn't want to do during the driving 

right now i just got my whole air meter assembly and fuel system dismantled 
to send to Grady for cleaning and calibration.  this time around i did it the 
smart way - every screw or part that i removed, i put a number next to it 
against the wall, with a chart of where everything goes when i put it back 
together.  also i am compiling a list in my shop manual of things i don't 
want to forget to do when reassembling, for instance, where and which wires 
go where, which vacuum hoses go where, and any other hints that will make the 
job easier.  

anyway, i'm the kind of guy who likes to mess with things so i think i want 
to remove my air induction manifold for cleaning. it sure is gunky under that 
air meter housing!  right now i'm to the point where i just need to unscrew 
the four bolts and it should lift right off.  my question now is - should i 
do it? am i asking for trouble by removing something like this for no really 
good reason?  i sure would be P.O'ed if my car ran worse when i was done with 
all of this because something didn't seal correctly.  right now my biggest 
concern is the idle speed wind pipe being aligned when i put it back in, so 
it is safe to take off the air induction manifold?  or should i go with the 
saying 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'?  i guess i'm mostly just curious to 
see what's under there.  ever since i got the car last year i was saying i 
want to take that thing off.  i don't know why, i just want to.  oh yeah - if 
i do, will i need to buy a whole bunch of gaskets that i just destroyed by 
removing it?

finally, with all of this stuff out of the way - is there anything i should 
do for maintenence while i have the opportunity?  right now i'm planning on 
replacing all of my vacuum hoses, and with the distributer right there i'll 
probably put in a new cap and rotor.  anything else???????  my spark plugs 
are perfect, new belts, i have new injectors and hollow bolts already.... 
that's about all i've done to the car back there.

any tips would be much appreciated!
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 09:45:11 EST
Subject: Re: TA Bolt questions

Les, Hang on a few day's. The multilevel answer is coming. The TA bolts are 
10.6 hex head original in one of my cars, TS is rated at 150,800 psi. This is 
a good hard bolt for attaching two flat surfaces together. You will see these 
all over the car. Another car had replacements put in and they were Socket 
head cap screws rated 12.9 at 176,900 psi. These bolts are higher rated for 
hanging things on them that arn't flat to flat surface. Even thought they 
were all bent a little, how hard is to hard. None were broke. I to feel they 
may bend a little into place, but I would rather have them bend also than 
break. The 12.9 has 15% more strength than the 10.9. I'm meeting with an 
engineer about them in a day or two and also with a supplier for 
mil spec bolts to see what they have to offer and at what price.
John hervey  


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 15:53:11 -0000
Subject: High Speed Accelleration...

I'm going through some of these old messages, but haven't found 
something quite like this... (again, new owner here, so don't shoot..)

After some city driving for about 15 minutes, I've taken the car out 
on the interstate, been up around 80MPH (Typical commute speed in 
Detroit) for another 15 minutes, then go to change lanes to let 
someone by.  I go to speed back up, and it doesn't want to go...the 
speed just falls.  Luckily, not a fast deacceleration or below an 
acceptable "highway speedy"...but I give it gas and I hear a change 
in pitch like it's downshifting, but it don't want to go above 55-65 
or so. 

I need to do some 0-60 timings to see where exactly things are in 
that respect, which may point to some other issues since it seems 
quite slow overall in the acceleration category, but not to a huge 
extreme - just seems to others like I don't feel like pushing the 
car.  The car is a low mileage 3 speed.  Starts fine all the time - 
hot or cold conditions, seems a bit too rich at initial startup, 
until about 2 minutes pass and something "clicks" (cold start valve?)
and it idles very smoothly...

Any tips on any of this is appreciated :)


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:38:34 -0000
From: "Eric" <>
Subject: Fuel Pressure Gauge kit

Can anyone recommend a good fuel pressure gauge "kit" and perhaps 
where they bought it.

I'm looking at a few at the local auto stores - they appear to be all 
oriented towards American cars - that is to say they are set up with 
connections that directly fit TBI systems or Schrader style valves.

Naturally, I want to get one that will fit my equipment. (or at least 
the adapters to do so.

Thanks All.

PS- I Still have not solved my severe hesitation problem - Oh, I've 
fixed a myriad of other little problems I've found...but none have 
resolved the REAL Dilemma! 

VIN# 5557
Dunedin, FL


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:45:31 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <>
Subject: urethane bushings?


Were did you get these urethane bushings from? I didn't find a source for
them, so far.


VIN 10284

> and tweak the suspension setup ... I have installed urethane bushings
> for the front sway bar attachments to the frame and to the lower
> control arms.  Noise is up a bit, but my car handles awesome.  It will


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:09:27 -0600
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: gas ran over

I just filled up my tank and had a few problems....
For once the trigger hold worked-- and sure enough it didn't work at all and
gas over-flowed while I was checking everything else on the car.
Gas flowed down into the trunk area, pooled above the bolt/nut above the
I got a rag and soaked that out of there.
Gas also ran all the way up front along the ridge that is suppossed to
channel light quantities of fluid down out and away from the trunk.

Now then... I'm airing the trunk out. What pieces/parts should I be double
checking for problems in the next few days?

I read this somewhere:
"most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident, most
likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make accidents."


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:28:49 -0500
From: "marvin" <>
Subject: virus found

Do not open any emails coming from my computer today. Ontario - Purchase Order - qquote, etc contain a virus. 

We are terribly sorry and have taken action to have it cleaned immediately.

Marvin Stein
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 21:57:09 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>
Subject: BOSCH Replacement Parts for DeLorean

Follow this link to Bosch Germany - you can search by car make i.e. "DeLorean".
Works great! But the page is written in German - still - you should be able to make it out.
Lots of numbers and parts for our beloved car!

Best wishes :)
Mr. Stian Birkeland

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 20:56:59 -0000
Subject: Re: High Speed Accelleration...

The first place I would look is anywhere that could restrict the 
engine. If you don't know when last changed start with a new air 
filter and fuel filter. If you feel it is "breaking up" as opposed to 
"holding back" the ignition system might be breaking down. Now you are 
on the way to a full tune-up spark plugs, cap, rotor, and ignition 
wires. Since it is an automatic you should rule out a problem with the 
shift computer going bad and forcing downshifts. To do this just stick 
2 lites onto the diag plug and watch what the shift computer is 
telling the solenoids.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:02:40 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>
Subject: PRV engine in LANCIA THEMA

I just found out that the same PRV with K-Jetronic fuel injection was used in the LANCIA THEMA up till 1992 where they switched to - ALFA. 

(Yes, for those of you who have seen the DeLorean movie by Hegedus/Pennebaker, even John Z. DeLorean mentioned "in a few years we'll switch to Alfa". The background for that discussion in a board meeting at DMC Ltd. was the PRV's cost. I think DeLorean called it "highway robbery" among other things,  if my memory serves me correct. 

Yes, the PRV was indeed an expensive, yet reliable engine. Hmm - now I wonder what specs LANCIA fitted the THEMA with. How many horses? I'll try to find out.

Best wishes :)
Mr. Stian Birkeland

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:49:30 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: High Speed Accelleration...


I have a hunch that your problem may be a bad transmission computer
governor.  While you are having problems coming back up to speed, your
transmission may be stuck in 2nd gear.  The next time this happens, check to
see if your engine is revving.  Also try to become conscious of how many
times you feel the transmission shift while you come up to speed from a full

The most common symptoms of a bad CG is that it will start you off in 2nd
gear, so I suggest not trying those 0-60 tests until you are certain of what
your transmission is doing.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:22:29 EST
Subject: Fender fixed, now what

     I just got my Left front fender back from the body shop.  They did a 
great job at removing the dents but they scratched up the grain pretty good.  
I have an original DMC scotch brite pad but the scratches are much too severe 
for this to work.  what # grit of sand paper should I use to get the grain 
going again?  or is there a better way?  its looks like 60 grit would be 
about right but please let me know before I go ruin it:)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:32:32 -0000
Subject: Re: urethane bushings?

Ralf - I sourced the urethane bushings through Honest Performance in 
Renton, Washington.  I have the part numbers at another location, so I 
will post them, if you wish, a little later.  I can tell you that the 
bushings at the attachment to the front frame extensions are a bolt-on 
replacement, although I did do a minor modification due to bushing 
retention problems.  The sway bar seems to apply a side load to the 
bushings, causing them to drift sideways out of the housing.  I added 
a little retention knob to the "saddle bracket" and a matching dimple 
in the bushing, to hold the bushing in place better.  No further 
challenges in the last year or so.  The bushings at the lower control 
arm to sway bar attachment were actually aftermarket 1994 Honda Civic 
radius rod bushings.  They have the correct outside diameter, but 
needed to be thinned a little, and the inside hole diameter enlarged 
to accept the steel sleeves from the original rubber bushings (which 
were cracked and split - totally toast).  The difference in handling 
was definitely noticeable.  As noted in another post, the interior 
noise level from the suspension did increase a little, but well within 
acceptable limits (for me, anyway).

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Toby!
> Were did you get these urethane bushings from? I didn't find a 
source for
> them, so far.


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:39:16 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: DOC Site Update

Hi All,

Well, I've finally managed it! Pictures from this last weekend's Classic
Car Show at the Birmingham NEC (including a shot of the Sunstar model),
Paul Salsbury's frame restoration, and photos of my gearbox problem -
now reassembled and ready to drive!

All that's left is to bleed the front brakes again (since I freed up the
calipers) and align the headlights. Bizarrely, they've worked since the
word go, until today when Jason rang me to ask if he was missing
something - like how to turn them on! I told him to jiggle the switch a

Best Wishes



Message: 23
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:45:32 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <>
Subject: Re: Light Switch Modification (was: Headlights Switch Problem)

I wrote:
> > I bought a new Lights Master Switch,
> > I made a slight modification: the switch now operates a relay
> > (with contacts rated at 30Amps), which in turn switches all
lights. [snip}
> > I also put in a second relay that gets powered after the 
> > ignitionswitch, switching the power for the headlights,

then "Scott Mueller" wrote:
> Post your schematic for the modifications in the DML archives. 
> I am curious about this mod.

Scott and all others that responded,

I am currently working on a somewhat decent writeup on this matter.
(my notes were a totall mess, so I had to sort them out first)

When finished I will submit it to the Technical Information 
Library at I guess that from there it will find 
it's way to the DMC-Tech files too.

Please all be patient, 
I'd like to try to do this right the first time.

Thanks for taking interest,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000



Message: 24
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:47:27 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <>
Subject: Re: air induction manifold removal - then what?

In for a penny, in for a pound...

If you've gone that far, I say keep going. You've already done most of 
the hard parts. You will likely find an incredible mess to clean up in 
the valley between the cylinder banks. Plus you *definitely* want to 
replace the little cooling hoses down there. Get the good silicone ones 
from Grady.  If your water pump is original, you should seriously 
consider doing that, too.

Yes, you need a bunch of O rings and gaskets. Just get the kit. The idle 
speed pipe is a pain, but it is just a matter of patience. One trick is 
to observe the pipe through the air metering plate opening so you can 
see if it is correctly placed. Don't forget the O ring.

When I did mine, I tried to document every nut, washer and wire.  When I 
get time, I intend to put together a detailed checklist to complement 
the excellent articles available in the DMCNews Tech Section. Except for 
keeping track of all the details, this really isn't that hard a project, 
and it is certainly a good way to get to know your engine.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703

On Tuesday, November 13, 2001, at 03:41 AM, wrote:

> anyway, i'm the kind of guy who likes to mess with things so i think i 
> want
> to remove my air induction manifold for cleaning. 
> any tips would be much appreciated!
> Andy


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:09:29 -0500
From: "Walter" <>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge kit


The fuel pressure gauge that I bought was on the recommendation of DMC Joe.
This is the NAPA Balkamp 700-1438 C.I.S. K-Jetronic Fuel Injection Tester
(according to the label on the box.)  It comes with a variety of fittings
and adapters to hook to probably any fuel line in the DeLorean (except for
the big ones on the fuel pump).

Remember to have a bunch of new copper crush washers on hand when putting
your lines back together.

Walt    (across the bay from you, remember?  You are welcome to borrow
mine.)    Tampa, FL


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