From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 784
Date: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 5:27 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Engine Help $$$$
From: scott-c-arnold_at_dml_home.com

2. Re: High Speed Accelleration...
From: pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com

3. Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
From: tucker11199_at_dml_yahoo.com

4. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Fender fixed, now what
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

6. TYRE WEAR/THRUST ANGLE
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>

7. air induction bolt broken! help!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Fuel Glitch
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

9. Re: Light Switch Modification
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

10. Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

11. PRV in Lancia Thema
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

12. More PRV and Bosch links
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

13. black stripe removal?
From: "Jason Cody" <atarilep_at_dml_bellsouth.net>

14. Re: Re:Newbie help
From: Ebe5173_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

16. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

17. RE: air induction bolt broken! help!
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

18. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

19. Re: black stripe removal?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

20. Re: air induction bolt broken! help!
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

21. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

22. Black Stripe - different kinds?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: Fuel Glitch
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

24. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

25. Re: Fuel Glitch
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 01:31:33 -0000
From: scott-c-arnold_at_dml_home.com
Subject: Re: Engine Help $$$$

For those who must (and don't have the right equipment), I found it 
easier to adjust the air/fuel mixture with the o2 system unplugged.  
Unplugging the o2 system is also a nice test.  The idle seeking on 
my D pretty much stopped once the o2 system was unplugged.  This 
suggests that the o2 system is trying to compensate for a air/fuel 
mixture that was still off, even though the engine was now 
running.  With some additional tweaking of the air/fuel mixture, I was 
able to almost completely eliminate the idle seeking.  Power seems 
down a bit -- I must have had it running a little rich.



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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 01:54:30 -0000
From: pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com
Subject: Re: High Speed Accelleration...

I did some more checking on the way back from work tonight, and it 
did the same thing... except I noticed when I would be going about 
65, I could give it some gas, but when I went all the way towards the 
floor with the pedal, suddenly it would almost "die out" and drop 
speed.  I could back off the pedal and it would keep the speed and 
rise slowly, but it didn't seem as if it was doing any sort of 
down/up shifting.  I have been keeping an eye on the revs to make 
sure it wasn't doing anything excessivly high/low...and it seems ok 
from just my general car knowledge.  I do notice that sometimes it 
stays in first gear a bit too long...but the moment I take the foot 
off the accelerator, it will downshift into second.  I've never 
noticed it start in second gear from a stop, either, as some people 
have encountered...  Essentially, it feels like it's not getting 
enough power somehow...not as if it's misjudging what gear to be in 
at high speed....

The mystery continues...
Pete

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Pete,
> 
> I have a hunch that your problem may be a bad transmission computer
> governor.



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 05:16:55 -0000
From: tucker11199_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering

Yo Toby,

You've got my attention re the Inconel TA bolts.  Count me in.

Tuck 16940




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:30:04 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions

Toby and group, I talked to an applications engineer today at SPS 
Technologies, these are the same people who made the torsion bar for the 
doors. He is also a car 
buff and he understood what I was talking about on the TAB bolts. One of his 
comments to me was, if you up grade to the 12.9 bolts which has 15% more 
tensile strength, wouldn't it be better if something has to bend a little, it 
would be the bolt and not the frame or any of the parts around it. He said 
that what was making it bend has to be transferred to something. With some 
good plating and baking would make them almost bullet proof for life. Yes, 
they could bend a little under certain conditions, but wouldn't any part and 
if were going to push the car to these limits, then the whole suspension 
system should be reworked.  I took a bolt out of one of cars that is a turbo 
and it had a slight bend and slight rust. It was unplated and was in a car 
with about 85,000 miles and a Turbo. 
I guess for about $5.00  to $8.00 dollars for the 12.9 bolt, plated . Why 
couldn't they be replaced every now and then if you didn't feel good about 
them. My 11004 with 55,000 miles still has the original bolts and I'm not the 
lightest on the gas peddle.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/    



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 05:39:53 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Fender fixed, now what

I had a lot of scratches on my car when I first got it too. I used #80 
 grit sandpaper then #120 and then finished it off with the "blending 
pad" I got from a Delorean vendor (they are courser than you generally 
can find localy). I also did it without the #120 grit going right into 
the blending pad. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you control the stroke and 
pressure as you are scratching the surface and if you don't "grain" it 
straight you have to start all over. On flat surfaces use a short 
piece of 2x4 to have even pressure. Don't ever push hard on the hood. 
Finish up with the S/S cleaner (the expensive spray can). After that a 
little Windex and you can win the next Concours! It is a lot of work 
to do it by hand, the Delorean shops have power tools that make it 
easier and faster, but it can be done by hand. If you do a panel you 
must do the entire panel to make it even and as you do one you will 
find yourself going around the car a panel at a time. Take your time 
and the car can look like new! You can start with the #60 and if you 
don't like it just go over it with #80 or #100.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:33:24 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>
Subject: TYRE WEAR/THRUST ANGLE

David (and List),

Thank you for your advice and assistance.  My local motor mechanic, who has 
worked on my car in the past, is going to check and adjust the thrust angle 
should it be required. I'll make the workshop manual available to him so 
that he can follow the correct procedure.

I have a new set of rear shocks which my son got in from the States some 
time ago.  I'd like to fit them but there seems to be a problem in that 
they are different to the ones currently on the car.  In the next day or 
so, I'll post a pic of the both types and perhaps someone can tell me what 
the problem is.

Lastly, DeLoreans are quite a rare breed here in Australia and not many 
motor mechanics are familiar with them, let alone seen one.

Lance Haslewood




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:56:40 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: air induction bolt broken! help!

Hey all,

well i decided to be a fool and remove my air induction manifold.  looks like 
i got more than i bargained for, just like i was afraid of.  the bolt that 
holds the manifold to the engine casing near the #6 cylinder (closest to the 
A/C comp) broke in half while removing it.  the other three came out fine.  i 
pulled the manifold off (WOW is it dirty down there.....) and there's about 
3/16ths of screw shank sticking up from the cylinder side.  just a jagged 
little beastie.  i've got it soaked in liquid wrench right now  and i hit it 
with a hammer a few times to maybe break the rust holding it in. i tried 
getting some vice grips on it and i can get them to grip it good, but that's 
with both tips of the grips touching the casing.  unfortunately the screw 
does not come out that way - it's more up and down than it is perpendicular 
to the casing.  know what i mean?  in other words, any turning motion you put 
on it is not the correct angle of torque to remove the bolt.  

i went to sears and bought a craftsman bolt extracting kit that will work 
with metric bolts.  however i'm a little bit afraid to use it because of the 
angle of drilling is so odd - it's not straight up and and down and it's not 
perpendicular to the casing.  

let's assume the worst and that i cannot get the bolt out.  what would you 
do?  just screw the other three bolts down good (of course i would get new 
bolts rather than use those old stressed-out rusty things)?  that seems just 
WRONG, but is that all you can do? or would it be better to make a gasket for 
the left-hand cylinder wall and hope that seals it ok?  or is this stupid and 
the ONLY way is to get that damn thing out???

any tips, insight, etc are GREATLY appreciated!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:12:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Fuel Glitch

Okay, I recall that this is a pretty common DeLorean thing, so I'm sure
it'll be pretty easy for someone to clue me in.

When I get down to about a quarter tank of gas, my car lurches quite
suddenly and quite hard - usually while in first or second gear. Since it
was pretty gear/speed specific, I thought it might be the transmission for
a second, but the constant seems to be the level of gasoline. Refresh my
memory, is this a sign of a failing fuel pump, fuel sender, or fuel pickup
hose?

Is there any way that I can check to be sure?

-Christian




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:17:52 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: Light Switch Modification

Hello again,

I wrote:
> I am currently working on a somewhat decent writeup on this matter.
> (my notes were a totall mess, so I had to sort them out first)
> When finished I will submit it to the Technical Information 
> Library at DMCnews.com I guess that from there it will find 
> it's way to the DMC-Tech files too.

I've finished the write up and Dave has allready put 
it up at DMCnews.com. Check it out at:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html

I haven't had any time to make some pictures and/or a schematic 
(I DO have to sleep some times  ;-), those will follow asap,
but I think most people can succesfully do this modification
following the provided text anyway.

If you have any questions or comments please mail me at
jan_at_dml_vdwouw.demon.nl (jan [at] vdwouw.demon.nl).

Greetings,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:31:02 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Broken Muffler Bracket.

While moving cars around in my driveway, I heard a nasty 
tapping sound in the engine compartment. As it turns out, the 
upper muffler bracket had broken. And the remaining piece 
hanging on the  muffler was hitting the alternator blades.

I can't figure out for the life of me what caused the bracket to 
break. The crack that goes thru isn't a clean snap. Nor is it a new 
fracture. Only a small portion was clean where it had just 
snapped. The remainder of the crack was caked in what looked 
like years of road grime. So evidently this isn't new damage.

Since the DeLorean is my only car, I need to get this fixed. I've 
temporarily used a length of steel strap to hold the muffler up. I 
enlargened the hole to slide the welded post on the muffler into, 
and I bolted the other end to the coolant bottle bracket. It's not as 
high up as it was before, but at least the muffler is no longer 
resting on the rear portion of the chassis. In the meanwhile, I'll 
keep driving to a minimum, and will take it easy.

I don't know if I can weld the bracket back together. But it doesn't 
matter anyhow since I don't have access to any welding 
equipment anyhow. So it looks like I'll be ordering a new bracket.

Any idea as to what caused this? This wasn't a sudden fracture, 
it looks like it took a bit of time. When i get a chance, I'll go over 
the other brackets to check for any problems.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:06:46 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: PRV in Lancia Thema

An Uruguayan DeLorean enthusiast to the rescue... 
Read the fully story of the PRV in Lancia Thema.

Stian


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Federico Ragni 


Hello, Stian, I'm another DeLorean entusiast, but from Uruguay (south america, not be mistake with paraguay..). 
Well, like an italian descendent, i like the italian cars very much.
The PRV was used in the Thema until the end of 1992, the '93 model was equiped with the Alfa V6 (2959 cm3).
The PRV engine was chosen because Lancia needed a large engine for exports markets because in Italy the 2000 up cm3 engines are very penalised with big taxes and the development of an engine for a small number of production models don't was a good inversion...
The PRV fitted in the Thema was the 2849 cm3 with 150 CV  a 5000 rpm, and 23,4 mkp torque at 3500 rpm, with Bosch LH 2.2 Jetronic electronic fuel injection
Top speed of 205 Km/h, 0-100 in 8,4 s (factory specifications, model year 91-92).
Well, i hope that this information interest you.

Best wishes 
Federico Ragni


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:55:19 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: More PRV and Bosch links

More PRV info and photos of other PRV variants:

http://www.douvrinprv.com

http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/v6.html

Also, a few people have e-mailed me having trouble with the www.bosch.de page in finding the correct search for "DeLorean" parts.

Try this link:

http://app5.bosch.de/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/BoschVer.woa/3/wo/CX0000lD200FN200V5/3.2

If the session has "timed out", try and go back to each slash ( / ) It will work eventually.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:59:05 -0500
From: "Jason Cody" <atarilep_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
Subject: black stripe removal?

Has anyone removed the optional black stripe on the side?  How hard is it?  Precautions?

-JWC


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:02:57 EST
From: Ebe5173_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re:Newbie help

(Moderators note: Frank, I'm sure all the DML guys out on the East coast can help you out. Please reply directly to Frank with any info you can help with.) 


Hey guys, im new to this list....im looking for a Delorean for a driver...any 
out there for sale?  Looking for one with all the updates....and in my area 
NJ NY area...

Regards

Frank
1964 MGB
1993 Lotus Esprit Sport 300
2001 BMW 330i



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:15:30 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions

List,
If you do buy a bolt and have it plated, you must ensure that it is
subsequently
"de-enbrittled". Any sort of electro-plating causes hydrogen enbrittlement.
 Heat treatment is the way to remove it.

My day job is electro-plating, but we don't get involved in de-enbrittleing.

It's only really important when a bolt is working near its  extreme limits
of strength, as seems to be the case here.

Chris P DOC UK   (Derby Plating Services Ltd.)...for the last 22 years.

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: TA Bolt questions


> > > I guess for about $5.00  to $8.00 dollars for the 12.9 bolt, plated .
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:53:31 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.

Heh. If you may recall Robert I had this exact same problem happen to 
me last fall while driving over some railroad tracks.  If the mount 
was original, thats your problem.  For some reason, the original 
mounts are very weak, and have a tendency to break.  The venders sell 
replacement ones which are much stronger.  So quit trying to figure 
out why it broke.  And this goes to ANYONE who isn't sure about this 
matter.  Check your engine comparment and inspect the upper muffler 
bracket on the passenger side of the car (above the alternator)  If 
it has been replaced, it is probably black and made from solid formed 
metal.  The originals were thinner and had curved edges.  If this is 
the case in your car, look carefully at it and you'll probably see 
some fatiuge cracks.  Replace it.  Better now than when it breaks.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
> While moving cars around in my driveway, I heard a nasty 
> tapping sound in the engine compartment. As it turns out, the 
> upper muffler bracket had broken. And the remaining piece 
> hanging on the  muffler was hitting the alternator blades.





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:12:42 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: air induction bolt broken! help!

You can you weld a nut on to it.  

I'd get it out, don't reassemble it with the broken bolt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 12:57 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; danRC30_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: [DML] air induction bolt broken! help!


Hey all,

well i decided to be a fool and remove my air induction manifold.  looks
like 
i got more than i bargained for, just like i was afraid of.  the bolt
that 
holds the manifold to the engine casing near the #6 cylinder (closest to
the 
A/C comp) broke in half while removing it.  the other three came out
fine.  i 
<SNIP>




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 20:14:07 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.

Grady (and I'm sure some others) sell a greatly reinforced version of 
the bracket, with some gussetting welded across one of the sides. In 
the mean time take it clear off the car. It will be fine without it 
for a while. I would not bother trying to weld it back together, the 
original design is prone to breakage, I've seen many cars where it's 
just missing altogether.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
> While moving cars around in my driveway, I heard a nasty 
> tapping sound in the engine compartment. As it turns out, the 
> upper muffler bracket had broken. 




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:36:40 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: black stripe removal?

My black stripe turned grey.  And since it was on my black painted car,
it just looked silly.  Mine came off pretty easily, but it was obviously
taken off in the past.  I like it better with it off, though every idiot
door swinger that isn't paying attention makes a small dent (and chips my
paint!). 

Let this be a lesson to anyone who wants to remove it.

1537 frankenlorean



On Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:59:05 -0500 "Jason Cody" <atarilep_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
writes:
> Has anyone removed the optional black stripe on the side?  How hard 
> is it?  Precautions?
> 
> -JWC



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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:30:41 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: air induction bolt broken! help!

ah, andy.  All I can say is:  You told you so!


You're going to be pissed if you have to put it back together like
that....
You can probably drill it out if you're careful.  
If you have to drill, my dad taught me some old indian tricks that I'll
pass on.
You obviously can't drill onto a non-parallel face, it just  doesn't
work.. the bit always travels.  PLace the bit perpendicular with the face
that you're cutting into, and start drilling that way.  Then when the tip
of the bit gets to the center of the bolt, turn the drill slowly to
parallel with the bolt, cutting it with the side of the drill.  Then you
can proceed to extract the bolt by drilling.  If you're careful, you can
take out the bolt in pieces without destroying the threads.  
You may have already known this, but I thought i'd try to help.. You
should also consider getting a set of COBALT drill bits.  I was amazed
how good these bits are!  You spend less time worrying WHEN you'll get
there so you can spend more time worrying about how you're going to get
there...  If al else fails, I have an engine block for sale.. hehehe!

I even drew you a picture. :)





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:06:23 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.

For info mine has done exactly the same.....  Bad batch????

Paul

6463




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:24:10 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Black Stripe - different kinds?

Hi All

When my car arrived in England, it was missing the piece of side trim to the rear of the
passenger door handle - the one about 5" long.

I bought a replacement from Houston via Wingray and when it arrived I noticed it's different
to the rest of the trim on my car. Having checked other DeLoreans, it appears MY trim is not
"right". It's more rounded, and more "rubbery" to the touch. Were there differing trims?
Mine's quite an early car, and there's nothing to suggest the trim was ever changed.

Cheers

Martin
#1458




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:30:11 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch

Check the baffle in the fuel tank is still attached to the bottom of the tank - by a
little threaded stud moulded to the "floor" of the tank, and a nut and washer. You can
access it by removing the fuel pump. In fact, I managed to catch the mount in the photo I
took of my old tank (together with all the crap!)

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02229.jpg

That stud has a habit of breaking.

Martin
#1458




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:44:12 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.

I have noticed that the edges of the various muffler brackets are 
sharp and unfinished.  In an environment with lots of vibration and 
heat, cracks can start at sharp edges and burred edges.  The cracks 
then propagate through the part from cyclic fatigue.  I have seen 
similar cracked brackets on other cars.  This is always a concern with 
high-performance jet aircraft as well.  The bracket can be welded by 
any muffler shop, or any other shop with normal welding equipment.  It 
may be a good idea to take it off for welding.  The high current of 
resistance welding could damage the alternator or other electronic 
components.  I would recommend smoothing off all edges of any sheet 
metal parts that are removed from the car for any reason.  It's always 
a good policy, and makes the cars look better, and safer to work on 
with bare hands. 





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:22:49 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch

>When I get down to about a quarter tank of gas, my car lurches quite
>suddenly and quite hard - usually while in first or second gear.

It sounds like you have a hole in your fuel suction hose.  As long as the
fuel level stays above the hole, then the car runs fine.  But on sudden
acceleration then the fuel sloshes away and the pump sucks air.  If this is
your problem, then you might hear noises from the fuel pump as it runs dry.

If the fuel tank has never been opened before, now would be a good time to
clean it out and replace a few parts if they look deteriorated:
fuel suction hose
fuel suction screen
fuel baffle (parts are missing on some cars)
fuel pump boot & cover
fuel lines at the tank

And while you are in there, consider replacing the metal fuel pump bracket &
metal return hose if they look rusted.  Also look at the fuel filler
opening.  The originals can rust badly.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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