From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 785
Date: Thursday, November 15, 2001 3:22 AM

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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

2. delorean.com is down - usadmc.com is up
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

3. More Sunstar Model Woes...
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

4. RE: air induction bolt broken! help!
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

5. Re: Fuel Glitch
From: jeff_at_dml_coware.com

6. New DeLorean 1:18 Model
From: "Emily" <delorean.girl_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. RE: More Sunstar Model Woes...
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

8. Courtesies relay?!?!?
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:49:21 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions

Toby,
It would be interesting to know (if you can tell us) what the differences
are between an 8.8, 10.9 & 12.9 hardness bolt.  I realize that the higher
the number the harder the bolt, but do these numbers carry any units of
measurement?  Also with your gourmet alloy bolt (I suppose we are calling
them Toby bolts now), what is the number for it?  Or does it even have a
number?

John Hervey,
I disagree about it being okay for the TABs to bend a little as they settle
in place.  If driving the car produces enough forces to bend the bolt once,
then I would suspect that several cycles of this force would eventually
break the bolt.  I would rather fix something once and have it stay fixed.
I can live with changing my oil on a regular basis, but not my TABs.  That
job was a major PITA with the larger automatic tranny in the way.  When I
had my alignment checked, I told the mechanic to just check the rear
alignment and not try to make any adjustments.  He suggested removing one
shim from the driver's side, but I am reluctant to do this.  For now I'm
thinking that I am better off with the rear alignment slightly out than
putting the TAB through another torque cycle.  I am planning on upgrading to
Toby bolts until I can get a stainless frame, but that is a whole nother
deal.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:01:29 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: delorean.com is down - usadmc.com is up

DNS snafus have brought the URL delorean.com 'down', though the same site
works through http://www.usadmc.com...

Sorry for any inconvenience this have have caused anyone!

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas 

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com 




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:06:34 -0000
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: More Sunstar Model Woes...

Hi everyone, like most of you , i too ordered the Sunstar model 
actually a couple of them. I too have what i feel are defective 
doors. On the one model i did open, the driver's door works great, 
the passengers door on the other hand falls right back shut. These 
doors are surprisingly heavy! I also noticed a bit of play in the 
passengers door when sliding it back and forth along the T-panel. 
This is the root i think of the inabaility for the doors to stay open.

Also, my louvres work great, but i didn't notice if anybody has 
checked the engine compartment cover. Mine doesn't work. it also 
falls right back down. the only way to get it to stay up is to open 
the louvres, open the compartment lid, and then wedge the louvres 
down on the compartment cover. But as i right this i'm examining that 
there is actually a wedge in the spine under them. i'm supposing this 
is the intended design. i personally feel that a small wire or 
something attached to both would make a finer detail. That way, the 
compartment cover opens WITH the louvres.

I feel that maybe by taking a toothpick and painting it black, it 
could be used as faux struts. or wedge a small bit toothpick to 
tighten up the play along the t-panel.

Anybody got any other solutions? Any word from Sunstar on why the 
doors only work partially?

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
About to acheive the dream.




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:08:36 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: air induction bolt broken! help!

Andy,
Go get a stud remover.  It uses a cam action to grip the stud while you
unscrew it.  It connects to your socket wrench.  I had to buy one and found
it at a NAPA store for about $30.  It sure beats drilling a hole in your
head.  Your local muffler shop may have one that you could "Rent".

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Subject: [DML] air induction bolt broken! help!

Hey all,

well i decided to be a fool and remove my air induction manifold.  looks
like i got more than i bargained for, just like i was afraid of.  the bolt that
holds the manifold to the engine casing near the #6 cylinder (closest to the
A/C comp) broke in half while removing it.

Andy



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:27:57 -0000
From: jeff_at_dml_coware.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch

Hi Christian:

When this happens at 1/4 tank, check the hose that goes between the
fuel pump and the fuel pickup strainer, inside the tank. Look for a
cracked hose just below where it is secured to the pump. This happened
to me... at 1/4 tank the fuel level was below the crack in the hose,
and I began to suck air into the hose, causing the car to lurch,
especially at turns and accelleration.

Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Okay, I recall that this is a pretty common DeLorean thing, so I'm sure
> it'll be pretty easy for someone to clue me in.
> 
> When I get down to about a quarter tank of gas, my car lurches quite
> suddenly and quite hard 



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:34:44 -0000
From: "Emily" <delorean.girl_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: New DeLorean 1:18 Model

Hello All

If some of you havent already checked, there is a brand new DeLorean 
model out there that is finally bigger than the Corgi and BTTF 
models!  It is a brand new 9" model made by a company called 
Sunstar.   I first came across the new model in a catalog 
called "Things You Never Knew Existed" for $40.  
After telling a DeLorean friend about my findings, he told me that it 
is for sale for $27 at www.diecastmuscle.com.  
The model looks to be in great shape and both doors go up.
Not only is there the normal DMC, there is also the American Express 
gold DeLorean (also $27) as well as a full BTTF 1:18 scale model for 
$25. 
I have also heard that it is for sale at DMC Houston and has been 
spotted at Toys R' Us stores. 
I thought I would post this message to inform others out there who 
want a nice D model that is larger than the previous.  
Hope this helps any of you out there!

Sincerely,
Emily Sweeney





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:45:35 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: More Sunstar Model Woes...

My doors don't stay up either.  I figured that it was part of the realism.

;>)

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:50:23 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Courtesies relay?!?!?



Hello, I am wondering if you have any advice for me
on this problem(?) Well,
the other day I noticed that my internal lights and
door lights were not
turning on. I checked the fuse for "courtesies" and
it was blown. I replaced
the fuse and it blew the second it made contact. I
blew a number of fuses
testing this. I then removed the relay and replaced
the fuse... and it
works!! The internal lights and door lights all
function normally turning on
and off when the door closes or when switches are
pushed. So I am confused.
Why does the circuit work correctly with the relay
removed?? I removed the white relay.

Any advice you can give is greatly appreciated!thanks, Adam

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