From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 786
Date: Thursday, November 15, 2001 1:50 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: black stripe removal?
From: "JWC" <atarilep_at_dml_bellsouth.net>

2. Re: Fuel Glitch
From: jugeauj_at_dml_gdls.com

3. Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

4. Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...
From: edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com

5. any Ann Arbor, MI owners on the south end?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. Leatherique
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

7. Re: TA Bolt questions
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com

8. Re: High Speed Accelleration...
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

9. DeLorean mentioned in Car and Driver
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. DeLorean Mentioned in Car and Driver again!
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Fuel Pump Glitch
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Re: Engine Help $$$$
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: High Speed Accelleration...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: air induction bolt broken! help!
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

16. Re: Courtesies relay?!?!?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

17. Re: urethane bushings?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

18. Re: Courtesies relay
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>

19. Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge kit
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...
From: Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie>

21. Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

22. Re: Courtesies relay?!?!?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Re: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

24. Re: Front sway bar progress
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

25. More Sunstar Model Woes...How to fix your Woes
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:13:47 -0500
From: "JWC" <atarilep_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: black stripe removal?

I should clarify I mean the optional black sports stripe...not the stripe
that protects from door dings.  And sorry if this has been covered before...
Im a newbie.  :P

-JWC




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:27:02 -0500
From: jugeauj_at_dml_gdls.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch


Hi Martin,
   Would you (or anyone else for that matter) by chance have a photo of the
other end; ie fuel pump and associated hoses and filter?
The DMC-12 I'm currently working on had been "dissected" by the time I'd
bought it so aside from drawings in the tech manual I'm not exactly sure
what the arrangement looks like.

Louis




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:37:57 +0800
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...



> My doors don't stay up either.  I figured that it was part of the realism.

Good point Scott!!!
Aren't we being a little pernickety, worrying about the doors on a 9", $20
model not staying up? Ok if it was a mega-$$$ precision collectors model I'd
expect mini gas-struts but guys this is a mass produced TOY for kids.

Enjoy it for what it is ... an excellent replication of our big-D toys. Get
a match or chewing gum and wedge the door open!

Cheers,          IAN (winding y'all up from Hong Kong!)
********************************************




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 00:55:44 -0000
From: edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hi everyone, like most of you , i too ordered the Sunstar model 
> actually a couple of them. I too have what i feel are defective 
> doors. > 


  Hey this funny in a good way. We are working on fixs and 
complaining about doors like the real ones. Maybe we can get someone 
in the group to work on making small piston struts to keep the doors 
up or maybe a crossover part we can use from another toy. I'll check 
with a vendor tomorrow. How about John Hervey helping us get those 
headlights up and running. 
   Just kidding everyone.

    Ed Herrmann




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 20:19:58 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: any Ann Arbor, MI owners on the south end?

hey list,

i was talking to a friend on another newsgroup who says there's a DeLorean 
near him in Ann Arbor, Michigan, 'on the south end by the saline'.

it is someone on the list?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 17:33:54 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Leatherique

A few months back there was a post about Leatheriqe leather and vinyl
treatment and cleaner and how great it is and how the high dollar car
clubs use it.  One of it's many virtues is that it restores the new
leather smell.  I got some and used it at once, leather was beginning to
look a little "doggy."  I drive the car once a week on average, I'm
always pleased by the new leather smell when I open the door.  I know
most everyone uses Lexol but it had a drying effect for me.




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 01:35:23 -0000
From: theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: TA Bolt questions

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't Grumman Aerospace Industries make
the torsion bars?

John Yeoman

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Toby and group, I talked to an applications engineer today at SPS 
> Technologies, these are the same people who made the torsion bar
for the doors.

> John hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:02:22 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: High Speed Accelleration...

Sounds like a fuel starvation problem.

Check fuel filter, tank filter screen, and tank suction hose for colapsing.
Check for a leaking diaphram in the fuel accumulator.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573

----- Original Message -----
From: <pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [DML] High Speed Accelleration...


> I did some more checking on the way back from work tonight, and it
> did the same thing... except I noticed when I would be going about
> 65, I could give it some gas, but when I went all the way towards the
> floor with the pedal, suddenly it would almost "die out" and drop
> speed.



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:23:45 EST
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean mentioned in Car and Driver

I don't know if you guys have read this yet, but in the November Issue of Car 
and Driver, Csaba Csere mentions John DeLorean in his "Steering Column." 
He states "From John De Lorean to John Rock, General Motors has rejected 
leaders who seem to outshine the corporate "process.""

John Feldman
VIN 4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:13:15 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions

Walt and others, Don't get me wrong, The application engineer told me this. 
I'm just relaying what the people said. I think the Toby bolt will be good 
also, But, I'm just trying to offer the other side before he jumps off into 
an expensive process and no sales. A few people talk a good bit but don't 
Annie up when something good comes out. How long have we been driving the 
cars with the 10.9 hardness bolt ( 150,800 ) tensile strength. 
Then the 12.9 ( 176,900 ) tensile strength is discovered and offers a little 
more strength. Plate it and forget it under normal driving conditions. Again 
it's like the man said, If hard driving conditions is making the bolts bend a 
little, and I mean almost nothing you can see with the naked eye, then what's 
the problem. Has one broke on you. My 11004 has 54,000 miles on the car and I 
drive moderately hard and have had no problem with the original bolts 10.6. 
My turbo car was driven harder before I bought it from a hot rodder and the 
12.9 bolt I took out like I said above was slightly bent. All I'm trying to 
say is, tall buildings are made to sway, bridges are made to sway and GM 
posted years ago that cars made to rigged caused more deaths because they 
wouldn't give a little. If his new bolts will offer 200,000 LB's + of tensile 
strength or more, won't bend under any hard driving conditions and will still 
give in a stress situation, then I'm all for it. If it's to rigid and won't 
then something else will have to give or the bolt will snap. Talk to any 
people that works with bolts, they have been telling me this for the last 3 
day's. SPS Technologies will make anything you are willing to pay for. They 
are the ones that made the torsion bars in the car. They should know. But 
it's like what the man said, What's the point. If someone is driving around 
popping the clutch trying to peel off, then the bolt will give or the frame 
will or you will tear up the clutch shortly. I would like the De Lorean to 
have a 250 HP engine and be able to perform the way it does in Back To The 
Future. But it wasn't built for that and virtually nothing you can do short 
of a total rebuild will change that. We just have to admit this ourselves. 
It's a classy car with classy looks and I'm all for making it more safe, but 
it isn't a hot rod. Toby also has liability to be concerned about when trying 
to offer something that hasn't been tested in any kind of road or driver 
condition. 
Driver will be the worse.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
            



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:21:00 EST
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Mentioned in Car and Driver again!

Yes, I emailed too quickly. A couple of pages later, the DeLorean car was 
mentioned in the "Up Front" section, under the heading "Toyota hard at work 
on new flux capacitor." Check out the Nov. 2001 issue of Car and Driver.

John Feldman
VIN 4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:40:20 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Glitch

Group. I had my first today. Had a call from a customer that was having 
fuelling problems. Come to find out that the pump had to be primed before it 
would pick up the gas. I have heard of a lot of things, but this was the 
first. I'm checking with Bosch to see what might be the problem. Is this a 
sign of the pump beginning to fail.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com  



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:46:03 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Help $$$$

Scott, Be carefull. Plugs will foul quicker cat will clog up quicker. The 
seeking is supposed to do that. I was showing my car to another delorean 
owner today and pointed out how smooth it will run if all is adjusted 
properly. With the 02 hooked up.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:48:06 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: High Speed Accelleration...

Pete, Have you checked the fuel filter.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 06:17:45 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: air induction bolt broken! help!

Don't feel too bad as this is common. A steel bolt in aluminum with a 
little corrosion and this is the result. DO NOT REASSEMBLE WITHOUT 
FIXING!!! You will never get the engine to run smoothly as you will 
have a major vacuum leak. There are two avenues left to you. Don't try 
to muscle the bolt out with a stud remover or vise grips, you will 
just keep breaking off what's left. Either weld a nut onto what is 
left (if there is enough left) or drill it out. If you weld a nut on 
before trying to loosen it use a torch and heat it up as much as you 
can. If drilling it is critical to stay centered and straight. Start 
with a small drill and work up. If you totaly screw it up oversize it, 
thread some aluminum, screw it in and with the air intake plenum in 
place mark and redrill and tap a hole. If you manage to drill the bolt 
out but mess up the threads use a thread insert to fix it up but only 
if it is centered and straight. This is really a job for a machinist 
so be careful and go slowly. When reassembling use Never-Seize so this 
won't happen again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 06:22:31 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Courtesies relay?!?!?

The white courtesy relay is supposed to delay the turning off of the 
courtesy lights. They don't seem to function correctly when they are 
"good" but I have never seen one blow fuses. I guess they can but the 
car works fine without them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> the other day I noticed that my internal lights and
> door lights were not
> turning on. I checked the fuse for "courtesies" and
> it was blown.



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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 06:41:37 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: urethane bushings?

Ralf - The urethane bushings were purchased through Honest 
Performance, in Renton, WA, USA.  The brand is "Prothane", and the 
parent company is Dee Engineering, Inc., Costa Mesa, CA 92626.  The 
part numbers are as follows:  8-1201-BL (Honda CVC/CRX Strut Rod bush 
kit) - These are what I used for the sway bar-to-lower control arm 
connection.  They are the correct diameter, but must be thinned down 
to the length of the steel sleeves in the original bushings.  Grind 
down the "flat side", which is opposite from the side with a molded-
in ridge.  Also, a rotary rasp can be used to open up the hole in the 
middle to accept the salvaged steel sleeves.   I peeled them out of 
the old rubber bushings, and simply pressed them into the urethane 
parts.  The flat sides are installed against the washers, and the 
molded-in ridge goes into the hole in the lower control arm.  Torque 
the retention nuts per the manual (right, David T. ?), and install 
jam nuts (if present).

19-1130-BL (sway bar bush kit 3/4" fits "B" brkt) - For the front 
sway bar attachment to the frame extensions.  Bolt-in, but I 
mentioned ealier that I modified them slightly to eliminate a 
tendency of the bushings to migrate sideways under load.  Check in 
with me if you need more info.  I would also use their special 
urethane grease, part number 19-1750, for all installations with 
urethane.  No groaning or squeaking during suspension movement.  I 
hope that this is helpful.  The handling improvement is fantastic 
(IMHO) when the car is driven near the "corners of the envelope".


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_w...> wrote:

> Were did you get these urethane bushings from? I didn't find a 
source for them, so far.

> Ralf.
> VIN 10284





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 10:23:55 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan_at_dml_vdWouw.Demon.nl>
Subject: Re: Courtesies relay

--- In dmcnews, Adam Price wrote:
> the other day I noticed that my internal lights and
> door lights were not turning on. I checked the fuse for
> "courtesies" and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and 
> it blew the second it made contact. I blew a number of
> fuses testing this. I then removed the relay and replaced
> the fuse... and it works!!
[snip]
> Why does the circuit work correctly with the relay
> removed?? I removed the white relay.

Adam,

What you are referring to as a relay is actually the delay for the 
interior lights; this is supposed to give you some light after you 
close the door(s) to find the ignition and/or put on your seatbelt(s).

By removing this unit you simply removed the delay-function, 
keeping everything else operable.

The delay isn't really that good anyway, so if you don't miss it, 
don't bother replacing it. If you DO want a delay -like I did- there
is 
a way to make it more reliable, but this involves some wiring 
underneath the center console behind the radio on the drivers side.

If anyone is interested in this modification I can make a write up
for that too, only problem is that I used some locally available 
parts, so I don't know if something similar is available overseas 
(I'm in Europe).

You CAN try using a commercially available Interior Lights Delay, 
but as I discovered when I tried this doesn. It work that good 
because of the lengths of wire involved and because of the switches 
at the doors that aren't that good...

The system I came up with has a relay that is controlled by the 
switches (and a special delay timer) that in turn switches the
lights. This way it doesn't even matter whether you have one door 
open or both and/or for how long you opened the doors; the delay 
and brightness of the lights is allways at it's maximum. 
My lights have never been so bright untill I did my modification; 
the ground connection provided by the switches just isn't up to 
the current draw for those lights.

Good Luck,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:09:21 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge kit

NAPA has just what your looking for. Order the C.I.S. K-Jetronic Fuel
Injector Tester Item 700-1438.

DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: [DML] Fuel Pressure Gauge kit


> Can anyone recommend a good fuel pressure gauge "kit" and perhaps
> where they bought it.

> Eric
> VIN# 5557



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Message: 20
Date: 15 Nov 2001 12:49:14 +0000
From: Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie>
Subject: Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...

Ha Ha Ha, nice one Scott!

That's what this needs, a bit more humour. How can you find that much complaint with a $30 car. What do you expect? Minature gas shocks!

Nick




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 13:30:12 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...

Maybe the mini torsion bars need to be adjusted.  be careful, because 
you could hurt yourself, and your car :)

erik

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> My doors don't stay up either.  I figured that it was part of the 
realism.



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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 09:41:30 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Courtesies relay?!?!?

Based on your description you have a short circuit somewhere in the interior
dome light circuit. To locate the short unplug both door light plunger
switches replace the fuse and white relay than re-plug the door switches.
You will probably find that the fuse blows when one of the door light
switches is re-connected, this will indicate which lamp circuit is shorted.
Refer to M:18:12 in the workshop manual for further details.

DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: [DML] Courtesies relay?!?!?

>
> Hello, I am wondering if you have any advice for me
> on this problem(?) Well,
> the other day I noticed that my internal lights and
> door lights were not
> turning on.



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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 11:07:30 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.

The upper right muffler bracket part# 108200 has an 85% failure rate. This
component is available from most DeLorean vendors as an upgraded steel
replacement. When considering the labor time and cost for welding the
original it would be more cost effective to simply purchase the upgrade unit
at under $40. The upgrade is stronger and looks better than the original.

DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 14:45:36 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Front sway bar progress

I would like photos & diagrams of the Ford Pinto front suspension.  This may
sound totally unrelated to most of you, but it is mentioned frequently in
various media that the DeLorean front suspension looks like someone "raided
a Ford Pinto parts bin".  This is a loose quote as I remember reading in the
book Grand Delusions.

I read in an old magazine that the DeLorean front lower control arm looked
like a lengthened version of the one used on the Pinto.  So I am wondering
if anyone can say if the sway bar bushing is the same or similar to the one
used on the DeLorean.

If anyone has any photos, diagrams or reference material to any vehicle that
resembles the DeLorean front suspension, then please tell me about it.  If
it is worth mailing to me, I will reimburse you postage & handling
accordingly.

I don't know of any local junkyards that have cars as old as the Pinto, and
it has been a long time since I have noticed one on the road.  If anyone
knows of one in or near the Tampa Bay area that I can have a look at, let me
know.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 18:55:49 -0000
From: CBL302_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: More Sunstar Model Woes...How to fix your Woes

Jeff,
Like you my passenger door too also,did not stay up on my 1/18 
model,so what I did was to disassemble my Delorean Model,there are 
eight screws on the bottom side of the model,BE cautious,when 
removing the screws,that go under the"gas tank"cover plate,as those 
hold on the front wheels and steering setup(ask me how I know--
Surprise)(it is a very simple setup,(the steering setup)so when you 
pull it off,it will go on quite easy,anyway once all the screws are 
removed,just carefully pry the steering wheel area,where the signal 
stalk is,loose from the bottom of the dash(you have to do this before 
you remove the under carriage,otherwise you can damage the steering)
then remove the undercarriage,on the inside of the T-panel area,you 
will see three screws,loosen those screws to adjust/make the door 
tighter,and at the same time you can,adjust the bonnet(two screws)and 
adjust the engine cover,and also paint the "steering wheel"black as 
it should be,also you can paint the interior black at that time since 
it is "out of the car" assembly is the reverse of the above,after I 
did the above adjustments,my doors NOW stay open as they 
should.CAUTION:the above repairs are ONLY for the Delorean Sunstar 
1/18 Diecast model,and not for any other Delorean model,and certainly 
not for a REAL delorean. 

Claude
000570
Windsor Ct.







From:  "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_a...>
Date:  Wed Nov 14, 2001  5:06 pm
Subject:  More Sunstar Model Woes...

 
Hi everyone, like most of you , i too ordered the Sunstar model 
actually a couple of them. I too have what i feel are defective 
doors. On the one model i did open, the driver's door works great, 
the passengers door on the other hand falls right back shut. These 
doors are surprisingly heavy! I also noticed a bit of play in the 
passengers door when sliding it back and forth along the T-panel. 
This is the root i think of the inability for the doors to stay open.

Also, my louvers work great, but i didn't notice if anybody has 
checked the engine compartment cover. Mine doesn't work. it also 
falls right back down. the only way to get it to stay up is to open 
the louvers, open the compartment lid, and then wedge the louvres 
down on the compartment cover. But as i right this i'm examining that 
there is actually a wedge in the spine under them. i'm supposing this 
is the intended design. i personally feel that a small wire or 
something attached to both would make a finer detail. That way, the 
compartment cover opens WITH the louvers.

I feel that maybe by taking a toothpick and painting it black, it 
could be used as faux struts. or wedge a small bit toothpick to 
tighten up the play along the t-panel.

Anybody got any other solutions? Any word from Sunstar on why the 
doors only work partially?

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
About to achieve the dream
 





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