From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 794
Date: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 6:39 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: TA Bolts...an end?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

2. Re: TA Bolts...an end?
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

3. Winged1 - Spirit of America
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. RIM Woes
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

5. Re: DMC Houston HiPo engine
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Gearboxes!
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. DMC Houston HiPo engine
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com

8. RE: RIM Woes
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

9. Re: RIM Woes
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com

10. Turbocharging (WAS: Houston HiPo)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

11. RE: RIM Woes
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Re: Gearboxes!
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

13. DeLorean Car Show Web Page
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. TA Bolt Failure Experience
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

15. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: Re: NJ owners?
From: Ebe5173_at_dml_aol.com

17. Passing this along: Rear facia for sale
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

18. Headlight Switch Follow Up.
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com

19. Re: DeLorean Car Show Web Page
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Headlight Switch Follow Up.
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

21. DeLorean in Forbes magazine
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Re: Gearboxes!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: Turbocharging (WAS: Houston HiPo)
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

24. Bosch Fuel Injection Systems
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

25. Re: Turbocharging (WAS: Houston HiPo)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:02:30 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: TA Bolts...an end?

IMHO the problems are related to mileage, environmental conditions, 
and driving style. Since the majority of owners are not the origional 
purchesors you really don't know how the car was driven and stored. 
Consider the TAB'S like an old radiater hose, do you really want a 20 
old part in a critical position? The cost isn't so great as to be a 
deterrent so just change them out. For the time and trouble it takes 
to inspect them they could just be replaced. In the not too distant 
past spark plugs were removed, cleaned, regapped and reinstalled. It 
became apparent that since most of the cost is in the labor it was 
cheaper to just stick in new ones! Either get Toby's bolts or get them 
from a Delorean vender but for piece-of-mind at least inspect them!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> After I replace my TA bolts, Toby is setting me up with a 747 jet 
engine
> to install in my Delorean.  I'm expecting 0 to 60 even faster than 
the
> Turbo DMC.  Does anyone want to help?  I'm not sure if I can lift 
the
> entire engine by myself... many times.  
> 
> Anyways, does anyone think that there is a relationship between
> manufacture time and TA bolt failure; ie, did different batches fare
> better than others?
> 
> Jim 
> 153zoom7
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, 19 Nov 2001 05:32:17 -0000 tobyp_at_dml_k... writes:
> > Les - As I suggested in my previous posting, a survey of the 
'fleet' 
> > would be a grand idea.  All we need is some guidance on how to 
> > accomplish it.  As far as your figures are concerned, if the 
> > percentage of "imperfect" bolts (whatever that means) is as high 
as 
> > 50%, we have a great deal of "worrying" to do.  Keep in mind my 
> > perspective ... on one car (mine) I had one break completely, and 
> > the 
> > other was significantly bent.  And, when we looked at another 
small 
> > group of cars, over 1/3 of the bolts were bent. As I mentioned in 
my 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:13:10 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: TA Bolts...an end?

Never mind the 747 engine, I just want to be the first to order the 
"Hover Conversion"! I hope after DMC Houston gets done with Stage III 
they could offer it as "Stage IV". Then you wouldn't worry about TAB's 
anymore!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> After I replace my TA bolts, Toby is setting me up with a 747 jet 
engine
> to install in my Delorean.  I'm expecting 0 to 60 even faster than 
the
> Turbo DMC.  Does anyone want to help?  I'm not sure if I can lift 
the
> entire engine by myself... many times.  
> 
> Anyways, does anyone think that there is a relationship between
> manufacture time and TA bolt failure; ie, did different batches fare
> better than others?
> 
> Jim 
> 153zoom7
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, 19 Nov 2001 05:32:17 -0000 tobyp_at_dml_k... writes:
> > Les - As I suggested in my previous posting, a survey of the 
'fleet' 
> > would be a grand idea.  All we need is some guidance on how to 
> > accomplish it.  As far as your figures are concerned, if the 
> > percentage of "imperfect" bolts (whatever that means) is as high 
as 
> > 50%, we have a great deal of "worrying" to do.  Keep in mind my 
> > perspective ... on one car (mine) I had one break completely, and 
> > the 
> > other was significantly bent.  And, when we looked at another 
small 
> > group of cars, over 1/3 of the bolts were bent. As I mentioned in 
my 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:13:56 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Winged1 - Spirit of America

Hello List - I finally managed to upload some photos of my car as it 
currently looks.  For those who are interested, the album is 
entitled "Spirit of America".  Enjoy!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 01:59:32 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: RIM Woes

Hey all ..
 
I just finished getting my rear rims back from the jerk at the garage...
 
to put things nicely .. he really did a number on my rims
 
dummy sandblasted them and used engine paint to repaint them
 
needless to say .. they look horrid 
 
I was wondering what the best method to refinish the rims would be?
 
I definately am taking them to a proffesional RIM specialty shop this
time and not a auto detailers ...(anybody got recommendations for
ONTARIO ... TORONTO AREA)
 
my front rims are still immaculate and factory original... 
 
now i have to re re finish the rear ones .. but my question is .. to get
them to match the front ones should they be :
 
powder coated?
painted?
sanded?
sand blasted??
 
 
Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
 
Thanks
 
Kenneth
005548
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 02:08:18 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DMC Houston HiPo engine

Whoops sorry man. My VIN is 16683. I thought Houston did twin turbos... but 
i dont really know. What are your thoughts on twin turbos? I have been 
thinking of getting it, but I am not sure how practical it is for daily 
driving. Also can the high output engine be twin turbo charged?



>From: Scott Arnold <scott-c-arnold_at_dml_home.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] DMC Houston HiPo engine
>Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 22:05:04 -0600
>
>Adam,
>
>No, I am referring to the modified naturally aspirated engine (no forced 
>induction).  I
>didn't realize DMC Houston did any twin turbos.
>
[Moderator snip]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:30:21 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Gearboxes!

Hi list,
Martin and others, can you tell me if modifying the final drive ratio 
(see Martins post below) would be only good for a low powered 
DeLorean, i.e. stock engine, or would there also be benefits for the 
DMC Hi-Po engine upgrade? Maybe the stock final drive suits the car 
better when it has more BHP? Are you going to do this modification to 
your DeLorean Martin? If it would allow the car to accelarate faster, 
would it lose some top speed?

Thanks,
John.
PS Martin, Congratulations on buying your DeLorean!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> I just had a VERY interesting chat with a gentleman who's big in the
> classic Renault world over here. His number was given to me during 
my
> search for a new end casing for my D's box.
> 
> He does a lot of work with these boxes, has a huge stash of parts
> (offered me an entire box for 150) and CAN WORK WITH INTERCHANGING
> RATIOS.
> 
> If you'd like your D to move a bit quicker off the line, he can 
drop the
> final drive ratio (as per the Euro spec cars) and make the ratios 
closer
> etc etc. Whatever you want basically, and all done by mix-and-
matching
> parts from the different incarnations of the same box.
> 

> 
> Seeya
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> www.delorean.co.uk




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:20:04 EST
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMC Houston HiPo engine

Gentlemen and Ladies,
Well, I have owned a DMC Houston Stage I engine for about a week now...Houston did everything they could to 6894 over the last year or so.  It should be clear what the engine is like after review of the curves if you know what the curves mean.  It is unrealistic to think those curves will give you a Porsche turbo, a Viper, a Corvette, the hottest off the line, the highest top speed or the best quarter mile times.  What you will likely have is the car John DeLorean had in mind 25 years ago, especially when lowered three inches.  It is fun to drive now, stable and pulls like a tractor to redline in all the gears.  It sounds great if you like engine sounds which is the reason I usually put Tri Flow and Tubi exhausts on my cars.  You may not like that sound and that is certainly your perogative.  I would say mine sounds like a 427 side oiler with side pipes.  When it was delivered by Passport Transport the driver could not wait to get my car off to listen to it.  That was in comparison to some pretty respectable
 other vehicles including a 600 bhp supercharged big block from Lingenfelter.

DMC Houston has taken, in the case of 6894, a 20 year old car and transformed it into a somewhat modern sportscar with pretty good performance and more soul - definitely more fun to drive. 

It was not cheap but it was worth every cent to me and I would be first in line in the Stage III mods whenever they materialize.

Sincerely,

fjk 6894



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:46:08 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: RIM Woes

Most of the DeLorean vendors do powder coating.  I have seen a number of
them at shows and such, they look great!

FWIW, I doubt your local guy has any experience with correct process and
color on the DMC wheel.  Your better off using a DMC Vendor of your
choice.


-----Original Message-----
From: Digital Devices [mailto:delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:00 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] RIM Woes

<SNIP>
I was wondering what the best method to refinish the rims would be?
 
I definately am taking them to a proffesional RIM specialty shop this
time and not a auto detailers ...(anybody got recommendations for
ONTARIO ... TORONTO AREA)
 
my front rims are still immaculate and factory original... 
 
now i have to re re finish the rear ones .. but my question is .. to get
them to match the front ones should they be :
 
powder coated?
painted?
sanded?
sand blasted??
 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:47:03 EST
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RIM Woes

Trade them with DMC Houston - I think 125 for refinished wheels - and maybe 250 for machine finsihed wheels like I have - they are gorgeous.



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:06:10 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Turbocharging (WAS: Houston HiPo)

Turbo charging does add a nice kick, but it is also expensive.  I always
pay close attention to turbocharged cars and speak with their owners
because I have (used to have, it is now disassembled in my garage) a
Island twin turbo setup.

*SOME* of the turbo cars I look at have a blow-by problem.  If the
engine is running, you can pull the breather and see that a small (or
large) amount of smoke is forced out of the crank case.  This is a sign
that something is broken inside.  In my case, I assume it is a ring.

There are a number of turbo versions of the PRV-V6, so you could build
yourself a reliable turbo engine that start at around 250HP (and go up
from there!). Cost is a big factor here, I priced out a number of
configurations and found the project could easily exceed 10K.  At that
point, it is just not worth it.  


As far as the Houston Hi-Po engine goes, I doubt they will warranty it
with any forced induction (James can clarify this).  Even if you were to
ignore that possibility, it again would be costly to but the Houston
engine and then buy the turbo kit on top of that.  Either way, your risk
of damage to the engine with the turbocharger will be the same if you
start with a stock or hi-po engine if no changes are made to the
pistons, rings, and liners (for starters).

When you are talking about engine upgrades that exceed half the value of
the car, you really need to consider how realistic of a upgrade it is.
There are a lot of nice sports cars out there that will go fast in the
30K price range (new and used).

Again, I know of a few of people working on upgrades and conversions..
If your in no rush, time is on your side.


-----Original Message-----
From: Adam Price [mailto:acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 5:08 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] DMC Houston HiPo engine


Whoops sorry man. My VIN is 16683. I thought Houston did twin turbos...
but 
i dont really know. What are your thoughts on twin turbos? I have been 
thinking of getting it, but I am not sure how practical it is for daily 
driving. Also can the high output engine be twin turbo charged?






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:12:03 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: RIM Woes

Check with DMC Houston.  They offer refinished rims and they look really
good.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: Digital Devices [mailto:delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 1:00 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] RIM Woes


Hey all ..
snip

I was wondering what the best method to refinish the rims would be?

I definately am taking them to a proffesional RIM specialty shop this
time and not a auto detailers ...(anybody got recommendations for
ONTARIO ... TORONTO AREA)

my front rims are still immaculate and factory original...

now i have to re re finish the rear ones .. but my question is .. to get
them to match the front ones should they be :

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:20:35 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Gearboxes!

A lower final drive ratio and the DMC HiPo engine would make a very good combination.
This would move the engine into its power band sooner.  You could take full advantage of
its improved reving capability.




John Dore wrote:

> Hi list,
> Martin and others, can you tell me if modifying the final drive ratio
> (see Martins post below) would be only good for a low powered
> DeLorean, i.e. stock engine, or would there also be benefits for the
> DMC Hi-Po engine upgrade? Maybe the stock final drive suits the car
> better when it has more BHP? Are you going to do this modification to
> your DeLorean Martin? If it would allow the car to accelarate faster,
> would it lose some top speed?
>
> Thanks,
> John.
> PS Martin, Congratulations on buying your DeLorean!
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I just had a VERY interesting chat with a gentleman who's big in the
> > classic Renault world over here. His number was given to me during
> my
> > search for a new end casing for my D's box.
> >
> > He does a lot of work with these boxes, has a huge stash of parts
> > (offered me an entire box for 150) and CAN WORK WITH INTERCHANGING
> > RATIOS.
> >
> > If you'd like your D to move a bit quicker off the line, he can
> drop the
> > final drive ratio (as per the Euro spec cars) and make the ratios
> closer
> > etc etc. Whatever you want basically, and all done by mix-and-
> matching
> > parts from the different incarnations of the same box.
> >
>
> >
> > Seeya
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
> > www.delorean.co.uk
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:32:30 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Web Page

I was amazed at how fast some of you found that I had posted the 
registration. It was less than two hours and I already had e-mail.

The web site has some changes also that we finally got done yesterday so the 
web page is now up to date.  I have changed some locations and times since 
the group grew so large.  There are still items that are subject to change.

The dinners and brunch will be having 2 seatings Except Friday which will 
have one seating.

Rather than deal with that here there will be a sign up sheet at Graceland 
for the early and late seatings.  I felt it was too much to deal with on the 
registration form and made it less flexible for you.

We have added more pictures at the bottom of the home page on a link so just 
click it for more pictures.

This show will be a lot different than Cleveland and I am sure  you will 
enjoy the entertainment and special Guests.

I have been asked again is John coming.
He already has his tickets and is expected to be there.  

I also want to again state that we have another interesting guest in George 
Crane who whorked with John and has some very interesting insights as to the 
demise of the Factory.  He is British and his opinions are very interesting.  
He loved working for DMC and it shows.  He will be giving  you a virtual tour 
of the factory and will tell us about the last day the plant was open.  He 
has documents from the plant he picked up as they closed down.  John and 
George wil be reunited on Friday at the Hollywood.  They have not seen each 
other since the close of the factory.

Registrationhas begun and I thank all of you in advance for your support.  
This will be the best Car show ever thanks to you.

Early registrations help me give you a bigger and better show.

Ken




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:26:10 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: TA Bolt Failure Experience

Les,

I have personal experience with a trailing arm bolt failure. Several years
ago I was driving a customers DeLorean from their home to our shop. I was
driving on a four lane road at approximately 55 MPH and prepared for a
normal stop at an oncoming stop light. Shortly after I applied the brakes I
heard a loud pop and felt a slight shift from the rear of the car. My first
thought was that the right rear trailing arm bolt had broken. I accelerated
slowly after the light change and slightly taped the brakes, sure enough the
rear end shifted to the right and I was sure that the trailing arm was no
longer attached to the frame. Fortunately the traffic was light and I was
able to pull off the highway onto a side street and gradually taped the
brakes until I came to safe stop.

On the other hand a panic stop at speed could have resulted in a very
unpleasant experience.

Happy Thanksgiving,
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Huckins" <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:27 AM
Subject: [DML] Toby


> I still say, enough on the bolts, unless there is some firsthand failure
> information that someone can pass along, someone who actually
> experienced a failure, while in motion.
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:29:57 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions



John said:
> The testing you do or the factory did was for a short time. I'm talking
about
> fatigue over time and weather conditions. Constant pulling, stretching,
and
> jerking, not just popping the clutch a few times and I pronounce you good,
> lets talk about it over years and maybe one, or two clutches later.

It's unfortunate that I have to spend time on the DML defending the
credibility of myself and the developers of the DeLorean automobile. John, I
respond to your comments with the following facts.

From Stainless Steel Illusion page 73 paragraph 6:

"The third and largest task Lotus had with the DeLorean was the detailed
development of the car. This meant establishing absolutely the length,
width, breadth, shape, weight and strength of everything that would go into
the DeLorean from the large sheet metal panels to the smallest screw on the
instrument panel. Eighteen prototype DeLoreans were built for development of
the body and chassis. Of these, 10-11 spent hundreds of thousands of miles
on the roads branching out from Hethel. A further 22 prototypes were
constructed for various safety and crash tests, including air bag tests.
Test rigs were built to check the durability of individual parts, from some
that carried out multi-million cycles on torsion bars, to vibration rigs
that gave the chassis and suspension such a pounding that they did 100,000
miles standing still in a few days"

From DMC Joe:
A. I have one of the most extensive and detailed databases on DeLorean part
failure rates in the world.
B. I have been servicing DeLoreans full time since 1984.
C. My personal DeLorean Vin 3370 has over 260,000 miles plus with much of it
hard driving. (3 clutches)
D. I have personal experience with TA bolt failures.
E. We have never experienced a TA bolt failure after our routine TA bolt
safety inspection and adjustment on any DeLorean serviced at our facility
numbering over 2500 to date.

Happy Thanksgiving
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: TA Bolt questions


> Joe, With due respect you most of the time disagree with me. So what's
new.
> The testing you do or the factory did was for a short time. I'm talking
about
> fatigue over time and weather conditions. Constant pulling, stretching,
and
> jerking, not just popping the clutch a few times and I pronounce you good,
> lets talk about it over years and maybe one, or two clutches later. Come
on,
> You can go have a heart check up tomorrow and every doctor says your OK,
then
> drop dead tomorrow. Everybody knows someone this has happened to. I agree,
> with you and relinquish to your time of working on the De Lorean that the
> trailing arm bolt it probably a mute point, But, I think to the folks up
> north who have to worry about salt spray and rusting it's more of a
> pronounced problem. I hope Toby can come up with a reasonable priced bolt
to
> help ease the mind of some. But I to have worked on cars all my life also
and
> do know a little. The Delorean is a car not a God and a bolt is a bolt.
You
> can't test something for a short period of time and pronounce it good. Why
do
> you think the military went to a salt spray test and most mechanical parts
> failed in the late 70's and eighty's, they found the conventional testing
> wasn't sufficient? Race car drivers spend $1000.00's and still have a bolt
> failure. Thanks for your comments, I always enjoy the exchange. By the
way,
> have you shipped my parts yet.
> John hervey







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:10:50 EST
From: Ebe5173_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: NJ owners?

Hey guys, Any NJ Listers out there?
Looking for local guys in my area for a look & See and advice.....


Frank
93 Sport 300 Lotus Esprit
Future Delorean owner



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:45:31 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: Passing this along: Rear facia for sale

I'm passing this along to the list for Loran Smith in Colorado. Loran had a
damaged rear facia, bought a new one and had the old one repaired. the old
one is now for sale:    

"The rear left bumper was cracked when I backed into one of my other cars in
the driveway (yuk). I took it to several collision shops and they had
outrages prices.  The one shop gave a price of $640.00 for repair. I
purchased a new one from P J Grady for $670.00 including shipping. I had it
installed for $76.00. The most labor intensive part was removing the
stainless steel lettering DELOREAN from the rubber. Little did I know how
easy it was to remove. I had the old one repaired by a bumper repair shop
for $200.00. It looks good as new. The buyer will have to purchase the
stainless steel lettering DELOREAN to replace the old lettering."

    "The sale price is $500.00 plus shipping which should be about $25.00.
They can email me at or call me at loran_at_dml_qwest.net - 719 598-7549 for any
other information.  It will be shipped UPS Ground."

    Thanks

    Loran



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:15:08 -0000
From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Subject: Headlight Switch Follow Up.

Ok, My new headlight switch from DMC Houston arrived yeterday, 
so i installed it last night. So since I had a replacement, I 
cracked open the old one to see how it worked. To say the least, 
the design is original, if not inspired by a ballpoint "clicker" pen.

The base is the 'male' portion. The center housing holds the 
spring, and has the bulb inside to light the switch face. It also 
has two plastic pieces that clip onto the copper leads for the 12V 
feed, the clearance lights, and the headlights. These end up 
making a set of 'tracks'. There are a total of 3 tracks with 3 
different lengths: Long (12V feed), medium (clearance lights), & 
short (headlights).

The second is the mobile, or 'female' portion. There are clips in 
place to hold the other end of the spring. And the center also has 
a hole in it to allow the light bulb thru to light the switch face. 
Here there are also a set of two clips that are connected. These 
clips will slide up and down the previously mentioned tracks.

Finally we have the position selector. This determins what lights 
to turn on by keeping the switch in a certain position. Others 
have described this as a "maze". You could put it that way, but a 
better description would be to think of a "pinball table". I know 
this kinda throws monkey wrench into the gears of what you may 
have had in mind, but let me explain. There is a piece of metal 
about the thickness of a paperclip. It's straight with the exception 
of two 90 bends on the ends. One end sits in a little hole on the 
base portion, and the other end is free moving in the "pinball 
table". The end of this will rest upon the "perches" on the table. 
Think of this end as the pin.

In the off position (#1), the pins is at the bottom of the field. When 
you push the button, this moves the pin up where it hits a "J" 
shaped incline. This pushes the pin to the right, but the portion 
_at_dml_ the end stops the switch from moving any furher. When you let 
go the pin drops down, and is caught by another "J" shaped 
incline which moves the pin all the way to the right. Here the 
force of the switches spring holds the pin into place, and the 
switch is half way in on the clearance lights only position. Or 
position #2.

For the third position for the headlights, just imagine the same 
previous process, only mirrored in the left direction. The only  
differances here is that the pin now moves in the left direction, 
and doesn't all the way over (the final "J" incline holds the pin in 
the center of the field, not all the way to the left).

Now when you push the switch in, you'll be turning the lights off. 
When you hit the switch, the pin will hit another "J" incline that 
will move it all the way to the right. But when you let go, the pin 
will have a clear path all the way to the bottom, save for a straight 
incline which bumps the pin back into the center. From here, the 
process start all over again.

Now you that you know that holds the switch in place, let's 
explain how it comes together. The longest track as previously 
mentioned was the 12V feed. This is always in contact with the 
clip on the track (remember that the clips all connect to each 
other). In position 1, only the 12V track comes in contact with a 
clip (furthest position away). In position #2, the switch is halfway, 
and will come in contact with the medium length track. Thus it 
feeds the clearance lights. In position #3, the male & female 
pieces of the switch are in the closest position. Here the final 
clip comes in contact with the shortest track to power the 
headlights.

The casing for the switch has tracks on 3 sides to guide the 
switch, and a niche on one to allow the pin to move freely, but to 
keep it in place.

Now for comments :)
On my switch, the the plastic on the 12V track had started to melt 
from the heat. Of all the power flowing thru it. There is some kind 
of grease on the track to keep it lubed. This grease on my 
contacts had started to burn. The force of the clip on the track 
had pushed the copper down into the plastic. So the relay up 
grade is a nessisary one for this circuit.

Function wise, I really can't think of a better design. The switch 
does it's job, and with the exception of the excess voltage, it 
shouldn't have any problems with normal, everyday use. There 
are only two downsides to this switch" 1. It's a little more difficult 
to flash your lights in a hurry when you're on the highway. (i.e. to 
let trucks know it's ok to pass). 2. When driving _at_dml_ dawn, you 
have to go thru the entire cycle when  you want to turn you lights 
off as the day gets brighter. Petty little things I know. But real life 
ones none the less. Other than these things, the design for the 
switch isn't a bad one. Astectily, it has a much nicer appearance 
than a pull switch, and is simpler than a switch on the steering 
colum.

In the end, I wrote this for everyone who's ever wondered how 
the swtich works on the inside. You can try to repair it if you like, 
but I would reccomend that you buy a new one. You don't want to 
mess with melting parts, and worn contacts. If nothing else, a 
new switch is just nice to have to help rebuild that "new" feeling 
for the car. It has the nice texture, and solid clicking sound. :)

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:03:15 EST
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show Web Page

In a message dated 11/20/01 10:46:24 AM Central Standard Time, 
kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> Registration has begun and I thank all of you in advance for your support.  
> This will be the best Car show ever thanks to you.
> 
> Early registrations help me give you a bigger and better show.
> 
> Ken
> 
> 

   One thing I think a lot of people don't understand about Ken's show is, he 
does everything he can to keep the cost to attend these events as low as he 
can. He tries to operate these shows on a "break even" type basis while at 
the same time putting together a super fantastic, fun filled event. This all 
costs money, some pretty big money with most of it being required upfront, 
months before the show actually happens. This money is required for deposits 
to hold things like banquet rooms and facilities and food and entertainment.
   This is one very important reason you need to register and send in your 
check NOW for this event. To help Ken try and recover some of the thousands 
of dollars of "front" money that has been required to get this event put 
together. And don't worry about not being able to attend at the last minute 
and being out a couple hundred bucks, Ken will gladly make refunds where 
required.
   The other important reason to register NOW is because, like Ken has said, 
the facilities these events are being held at have maximum capacities which 
are established by the local Fire Marshall. If you register late, or decide 
to just show up at the door, you may not be allowed to attend. This is not 
something that Ken has any control over, so you may end up being very 
disappointed if you just show up and are not allowed in.
     Pre-regristration is the best way to eliminate these possible problems. 
Fill it out and send it in along with your check NOW.    

   Marty



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 21:39:35 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight Switch Follow Up.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
>1. It's a little more difficult to flash your lights in a hurry
> when you're on the highway. (i.e. to let trucks know it's ok 
> to pass). 

Use the High-Beam switch for this. The high beams will illuminate 
when you pull the handle even if you don't have the lights on at the 
time. Just like all cars built since the mid-70s. (Federal law).

Dave Swingle. 




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:55:00 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean in Forbes magazine

Hi,
     Today I found an article in Forbes magazine(Nov issue) which mentions 
the DeLorean and even has a little picture of john sitting on one.  The 
article is about Scott painter who is trying to make a car like the 
duesenburg again(very bad idea)  you choose what engine you want, body, 
interior etc etc.  what happens when you crash it? 
     End of article has a chart titled "The Anti-DeLorean"  "Scott painter is 
no DeLorean, Is this a good thing? Probably". It lists a few differences 
between john and Painter.  hmmm,  it says DeLorean only sold a total of 4,243 
cars...lol

ps.  The car in the picture looks to have clear headlight covers over the 
lights. I think it looks very good,  I may have to make a set of these.

later

David Phelps
6286


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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 23:40:32 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Gearboxes!

Hi John

Lowering the final drive ratio means putting a larger crown gear on the (sorry, not sure
of the correct term) central driveshaft - the one that translates the longditudinal
rotation of the engine and gearbox to the transverse rotation of the driveshafts. This
means all five gears will have a higher ratio - ie more rotations of the engine per
rotation of the wheels. This improves accelleration but at the detriment of top speed.
You'd get the same effect by putting smaller wheels on the back (no, I'm NOT suggesting
this!).

Whether with a stock or modified engine, it all comes down to personal preference. The
DeLorean has extremely tall gears - this was to bring the cruising RPM down and get the
car the mpg figures they needed. IIRC this was part of the deal that got DeLorean all his
money.

Since the first day I started driving, I've owned diesel cars. The disadvantage with a
diesel is the engine doesn't rev as high as a petrol engine. The advantage is you get
shedloads more torque (remember power is torque x speed). My 2.0l HDi Xantia is 110bhp
and cruises at 90mph at 3000rpm. This is because Citroen gave it very tall gears to make
use of the torque.

Driving my DeLorean for the first time pleased me greatly because of the tall gearing. I
would like it to be a bit quicker off the line, but as you know my long-term plan
involves some engine mods by a company I found, and it's basically up to me what I want -
ie torque or power. It seems to me that in a car with tall gears, you need more torque
rather than power. I'm no expert but it makes sense to me.

I am not planning to get anything done to my car till my finances are more healthy and I
sort out some of the other problems with the car, like the non-functioning drivers side
lock, the faded fascias, and the tatty interior. The gearbox is a possibility, and the
bloke I spoke to can do far more than just lower the final drive. He can interchange
ratios to (for example) give you lower/closer 1-3, a mid range 4th and stock 5th so you
get better accelleration but retain motorway cruising economy and top speed.

Martin
#1458
www.delorean.co.uk

PS Thanks!

John Dore wrote:

> Hi list,
> Martin and others, can you tell me if modifying the final drive ratio
> (see Martins post below) would be only good for a low powered
> DeLorean, i.e. stock engine, or would there also be benefits for the
> DMC Hi-Po engine upgrade? Maybe the stock final drive suits the car
> better when it has more BHP? Are you going to do this modification to
> your DeLorean Martin? If it would allow the car to accelarate faster,
> would it lose some top speed?
>
> Thanks,
> John.
> PS Martin, Congratulations on buying your DeLorean!




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:30:54 -0600
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharging (WAS: Houston HiPo)

Actually I think you need to know which direction you intend to go with
engine modifications up front. Turbos would require going a different
direction regarding cams, compression ratios, exhaust flow and ignition. I
don't think the Houston engine would benefit from a turbo because their
direction for increasing horse power and torque, while great and
accomplishing what they intended it to do, wouldn't be the best approach for
super charging. I've had a turbo for years and it has required periodic
tinkering. I enjoy it ( I like to tinker ) but the Houston engine is very
close to the original regarding reliability.

Bruce Benson


> As far as the Houston Hi-Po engine goes, I doubt they will warranty it
> with any forced induction (James can clarify this).  Even if you were to
> ignore that possibility, it again would be costly to but the Houston
> engine and then buy the turbo kit on top of that.  Either way, your risk
> of damage to the engine with the turbocharger will be the same if you
> start with a stock or hi-po engine if no changes are made to the
> pistons, rings, and liners (for starters).





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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:31:14 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Bosch Fuel Injection Systems

I found a book called "How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel Injection" written by Ben Watson, published by MBI Publishing Company, ISBN number 0-87938-570-7 price $19.95 USD. The book contains information on several Bosch systems including two chapters on K-Jetronic and K-Jetronic with Lambda. It is very well written and has lots of illustrations and clever trouble shooting tips.

I highly recommend this book for all DeLorean owners who work on their own cars.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573


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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:34:36 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Turbocharging (WAS: Houston HiPo)

On Tue, 20 Nov 2001, Marc A. Levy wrote:

> As far as the Houston Hi-Po engine goes, I doubt they will warranty it
> with any forced induction (James can clarify this).  Even if you were
> to ignore that possibility, it again would be costly to but the
> Houston engine and then buy the turbo kit on top of that.  Either way,

I don't think this would be terribly good engineering, anyway.  While
anything can be turbocharged, the sort of modifications that make a
naturally aspirated engine faster don't always make a turbocharged engine
faster.  Raising compression is counterproductive; exhaust headers aren't
compatible with a turbo; changing valve timing may or may not help (or
might make things worse), depending on exactly how it was changed.

A better way to get power in the 250+ HP range would be with an engine
swap, or with a modern turbo setup including an electronic fuel and
ignition system, intercooler(s), and larger turbo(s) (compared to the
Island) - similar to what the "sport compact" aftermarket tuners do.




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