From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 814
Date: Monday, December 03, 2001 12:17 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Heated Door Struts?
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

2. #1458 has problems...
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

3. Sunstar Prototype
From: Ack Man <>

From: "Walter" <>

5. Re: stacking DeLoreans (storage)

6. louvre paint
From: "James LaLonde" <>

7. delorean difference s in year opinions
From: "James LaLonde" <>

8. Re: Roof kink

9. RE: door openers
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <>

10. Re: Heated Door Struts?

11. Re: sunstar delorean customizing
From: "dan g." <>

12. Re: Remote Starter / Fan Delay

13. Door Trim Removal.

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 00:57:55 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Heated Door Struts?

Hi Christian,

When I got my car, all six struts were shot, so I got a set from PJ Grady. As you may be
aware, the original struts were  effectively just springs. The replacements from Rob (and
I believe every other service facility) have a "brake" in the last inch of travel meaning
that the door is slowed down. This means you can feel free to torque up the torsion bar
such that the door opens in cold weather, and not worry about it flying off its hinges in
the summer :-)

It was our first torsion bar experience (quite comical at the time), and my drivers' door
still doesn't go up properly, but the passenger door is perfect. Strangely, one notch on
the bar made the difference between a real half-assed attempt at opening, and a very
keen, rapid movement. It was about 5 degrees C that day.

Best Wishes


Christian Williams wrote:

> I was thinking the other day about door launchers and cold weather. Even
> here in California, the door launchers would only be effective during the
> warm months (unless you adjust your tortion bars with the changing
> seasons), and in the cold months, the doors would half-open.
> I know nothing about gas struts, but would it be possible to create either
> an internal or an external temp control for them? Either some sort of heat
> coil inside the strut or a heat pad sleve that you could slide around the
> outside of the strut?
> -Christian 3452


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 00:58:05 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: #1458 has problems...

Hi All,

I've had some fun with my car this past weekend! I was supposed to drive the car home to
Kent on Friday night to work on it at the Diesel Centre on Saturday. Now quickly some
background: A week ago last thursday, I drove it back from Kent to Reading (110 miles).
The following day, I took it to work (20 miles each way) I must have fired her up 8-9
times that day. On the Saturday, I drove her to Peterborough, (100 miles) and back, again
with several starts. By this time, I was noticing an increasingly difficult period
between when the car was stone cold, and when hot. I had Rich's (#2727) warm-up regulator
on my engine, so wasn't unduly worried, and had planned to swap them back on my trip home
this weekend.

I drove the car again for 20 minutes or so last Wednesday night - no problems starting,
but awful, awful spluttering, coughing, missing and general sulking as soon as the
cold-start stopped firing.

Anyway, come Friday night (10pm), loaded with my stuff - tools, clothes, fluids and a
full tank of petrol, would it start? Would it even fire? Com ON! One cylinder, please,


So I rang the RAC - lied and told them it was a Renault 30 (stops the annoying
questions), and soon enough the chap turned up. I had also rang Rob Grady who gave me
several pointers (one big advantage of being 6hrs ahead of you guys - when I'm playing
with my car in the evening, you're still at work :-)

Without going into all the details - whether the RAC chap wanted tea or coffee and
suchlike - one of the things we did at my suggestion was to check the air-flow sensor was
moving freely. BINGO! it was a stiff as a board. Strange though, because given the fact
that in getting the car running we'd had to un-stick the plunger in the metering head, it
was stiff going up, but coming back down again afterwards...

Anyway, the RAC bloke gave up, and I went home in the Xantia with Rich's warm-up
regulator. To cut an ever-increasingly long story slightly shorter, Rich's warm-up reg
was so badly blocked, it almost prevented the air flow sensor from actually moving at

Now, some questions!!!

1) One of Dave Howarth's suggestions to get the car running was to clean all the
connections to the resistors a the back of the engine bay. The two on the right were
fine, but the one that should live on the top left was un-plugged and melted (been that
way since I got it). I remember hearing something about this particular wire being a
danger to itself and the car, but what I wasn't prepared for was the engine stalling when
I tried to plug it in (or at least, there was a big spark and the engine revs plummeted,
so I took it off quickly!)... I can't figure out why it would do this based on the wiring
diagram - this wire apparently goes off to the starter motor somewhere... anyone help?

2) Even now the car's back up and running well, I still experience fantastic
accelleration - tyre squeal and everything.... for the first 45 seconds from stone cold.
Then the cold-start stops firing, and the car's back to running like an asthmatic badger
until it warms up, but even when up to temperature, it STILL doesn't perform anything
like as well as when it's cold. Think it needs the fuelling adjusting?

3) Is it normal for the oil pressure meter to jiggle like a ruler being twanged over the
edge of a desk? It sits there showing a healthy pressure but alternates between being
still and wobbling. I replaced the sender two weeks ago - the original didn't work.

I know as soon as I send this, I'll remember some more questins I've been meaning to ask,
but I've completely forgotten them now!

Before I sign off, just wanted to say a big thanks to Chris from the RAC, and Rob Grady,
for being... well... as he always is!

I also wanted to point out that even given the problems I'm having, this car has 2500
miles on it and cost me $7500 (and so far about $1500 in labour and parts, not including
the stuff I needed for driving on the left). Not all "cheap" cars are a big risk. It
needs lots of cosmetic work, but I can enjoy it in the meantime.



Message: 3
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 17:26:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Ack Man <>
Subject: Sunstar Prototype

Does anybody else think that Sunstar should come out
with a "1977 DeLorean prototype"? This would be great
in my opinion! The prototypes have a strange beauty
all to themselves... but I just might moddify an
existing '81 sunstar to look 77 spec.


Do You Yahoo!?
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 20:47:55 -0500
From: "Walter" <>


I'm behind you all the way.  You think just like I do in these matters.
Someday when I have some time on my hands, I'm going to make computer text
copies of some of the more rare & out of print books.  It doesn't bother me
since the publishers are not interested in either printing more copies or
selling the copyrights.

Walt    Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>
To: <>
Cc: "DOC UK" <>
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 12:46 PM

> As we're already in the electronic age, wouldn't it be nice to have the


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:00:22 EST
Subject: Re: stacking DeLoreans (storage)

Hi Walt,
     A friend of myne stored his Bricklins under his lift without any 
problems with opening the doors all the way(A D cant be much different).  The 
brand of lift is Autolifters MFG.  They advertise in the front of hemmings.  
hope that helps

see ya

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 23:22:17 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <>
Subject: louvre paint

i bought a delorean about a month ago, had some intial repairs/restoration
done and it's now on the road with only some weather seal problem, (parts
are on the way for that), cold start problems (not a huge concern of mine,
won't drive much in the winter... but will be fix right after the seals),
and some superficial stuff.
couple of questions.
what are the louvres made of? and how were they originally painted/color...
mine are very dull and scratched a bit. same with the non-fuctional 'vents'
behind the door and the intake vents..
any recommendation on how to repaint/resurface these?

also could someone help with the cold start diagnostic. i read it on
dmcnews... but... just be sure i'm right here... should i just connect the
blue-black wire to the blue-white wire on the harness that plugs into the
thermo-time switch.. and that should make the cold-start valve functional
regardless of the temp.  correct?

james lalonde '81   vin001697


Do You Yahoo!?

Get your free address at


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 23:32:27 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <>
Subject: delorean difference s in year opinions

i thought this may be an interesting thread... may have been done before...
but i think it'd fun for me : ^ P

what's your preference;
1 hood lines.. y/n
2 gas flap......y/n
3 plain rub strip or wide styling line or dmc houston's new ital design
styling lines
4 black/grey/two tone interior
5 manual/automatic
6 original spring hieght/or 'new' originally intended (lower) spring height

and the fun part... WHY?
and lastly... does this all match YOUR delorean... or will be changing it to

i like hood lines and gas flap. cooler looking.. and damn easier.
i like the wider side strip... but dislike the ital design one from dmc
houston... i just ordered a reproduction wide strip for mine. i think it
make the car look less BTTF-like... i kinda don't like it when people call
it the BTTF car... no... it's a delorean... yes one was used in that move...
but there was a Stingray in Rush-Hour... and it's not the rush-hour car. and
a trans am in knight-rider... nope still not the knight-rider-car.
i like pure black interior. i thnk the grey is WAY too light  and looks
wierd when the doors are open... the arm rest that is now way up in the air
is strange looking when grey to me.
and of course a stick... i mean.... what's the point of having any car in an
auto... let about one with such a poorly aspirated gearing.
i like the lowered spring but am still debating on buying them...

i'm interested in everyone's opinion... i'm new to the list and to owning a

hope to hear from you!
James LaLonde vin001697


Do You Yahoo!?

Get your free address at


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 23:24:40 EST
Subject: Re: Roof kink

  A previous owner over torqued the driver side 'tension bar' on my '81; 
putting a warp in the stainless steel 't' section. If I relieve the tension, 
will it go away; or am I in for some body work? Anybody? 


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 20:45:53 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <>
Subject: RE: door openers

> I think the door opening kit at Speciality is a lock/unlock
> remote kit, not actually a door opening kit. I have seen Rob's doors
> open from his remote switch.

Gary, please check - the kit OPENS one or both doors
by remote control, as well as unlocks them.  It has been available for

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 05:47:44 -0000
Subject: Re: Heated Door Struts?

I think you are on the right track but going the wrong way. When I 
last mentioned this problem to Rob Grady about the large change in the 
strut's performance summer to winter he said just adjust them twice a 
 As practical as this advice may be it isn't going to happen! Now that 
he is offering the door launchers soon this problem will just seem 
worse. I propose, and I guess you can put this on the "wish list", a 
temperature compensated strut for the doors. It makes a lot more sense 
than trying to heat them or adjusting the torsion bars twice a year. I 
realize that this will probably make them even more expensive then 
they already are but for most of us the signature feature of the 
Delorean is the unique doors. To have them operate correctly is 
paramount in the operation of the car. Imagine installing the door 
launchers and the doors open anemically and then only halfway! Heating 
the struts is just another way to kill the battery quicker. That's 
probably why they never installed the side mirror heaters.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I was thinking the other day about door launchers and cold weather. 
> here in California, the door launchers would only be effective 
during the
> warm months (unless you adjust your tortion bars with the changing
> seasons), and in the cold months, the doors would half-open.


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:54:03 -0800 (PST)
From: "dan g." <>
Subject: Re: sunstar delorean customizing

I put a drop of medium strength loctite on the door
hinge screws and tightend them down...

Painted the steering wheel black...

As for the door straps, you could try using some suede
lace from a fabric store or craft shop.

Dan G.
87 Turbo Regal

Do You Yahoo!?
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 08:34:04 -0000
Subject: Re: Remote Starter / Fan Delay

Nice thinking, 

I have got 3 spare outputs, I will have to look into whether or not I 
can somehow link them to the AC system.

Thanks All


James RG

> Doesn't this remoate system have an extra output?
> Then you could wire this up to engage the Compressor and fans
> manually by remote once your car has started.
> Good Luck,
> JAN van de Wouw
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 11:50:22 -0000
Subject: Door Trim Removal.

Just an FYI to anyone who is removing their door trim panel. You 
only need to remove the mirror switch if you are going into the 
door internals. And if you remove the switch, do so from the 
BOTTOM! You cannont pry the switch loose from the top. I found 
this out the hard way, and ended up cracking the switch open. 
Needless to say, I put the order in already for a new one...

But not all is lost. I finally got the change to readjust the internal 
ducting for the side vent. That was a bit of a chore. But after 
some time, and a few *colorful* words, I got everything to snap 
into place properly! Although it doesn't look like things went so 
easy for the person who assembled everything in Dunmurry 
judging by the large crack in the vent. But after a little foaming 
insulation, it looks like things will seal quite nicely!

Then on to the reassembly!

Does anyone have any advice on reinstalling the lower trim 
panel? Specificly the door handle. It looks like I need to bolt this 
peice in first before the trim panel. But the lip on the outside 
holding the trim panel makes this to say the least 'challenging".

vin 6585 "X"


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to