From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 815
Date: Monday, December 03, 2001 7:47 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: weather seals, and door alignment help
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

2. RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

3. RE: Door Trim Removal.
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

4. RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

5. RE: Re: Remote Starter / Fan Delay
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

6. Re: delorean difference s in year opinions
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

7. Re: Roof kink
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

8. Re: delorean difference s in year opinions
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: delorean difference s in year opinions
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

10. RE: LIVE THE DREAM COMMERCIAL ON DVD?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

11. RE: Door Trim Removal.
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>

12. Legend on Ebay
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

13. Lowered springs - just the front?
From: tylergraves_at_dml_hotmail.com

14. Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com

15. Re: Door Trim Removal.
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

16. Re: Heated Door Struts?
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

17. Re: #1458 has problems...
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net

18. Re: Heated Door Struts?
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

19. Re: louvre paint
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Re: Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

21. Re: Re: #1458 has problems...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

22. Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
From: mark_at_dml_wizwarecomputers.com

23. Re: Re: Heated Door Struts?
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

24. Re: Re: Door Trim Removal.
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

25. Re: delorean difference s in year opinions
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 06:49:06 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: weather seals, and door alignment help

Make sure the gasket is seated then park the car out in the Sunshine and let
get hot.  The door seals will form.

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: James LaLonde [mailto:krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 1:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] weather seals, and door alignment help


i just installed new door seals on the car and now, after the doors have
been sitting in the up position for a day and a half the passenger side door
is horribly mis-aligned. from the top it looks like the door's 'roof '
section is sitting too far forward toward the windshield, and when closed
the doorseems too tight in the front and too far out, or loose, in the back.

could leaving the doors open for 1.5 days do this? my workshop manual isn't
very clear on alligning the door, can someone help me out a bit more. could
it be the weather seals 'pushing' the doors out of place?

oh yeah, i used the earlier vin's door seal design, my car is a june 81

-james lalonde

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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:01:46 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?

It would be nice to have ALL of the literature should be on the DMCNEWS
sight.
I have posted copies of literature, infact, check out the FAQ's that Knut
published.  I posted a copies of a New Owners Letter from JZD to my Father.
I cut out his address, but otherwise its all there.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031

-From: Mike Griese
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 6:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?

If I just spent $100 for something and you
make a copy available for free, I would not be very
happy about that if the thing I just bought became
essentially worthless.  Part of the reason some of these
materials get the prices they do is because they are
rare.


From: Stian Birkeland
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 11:36 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?


Hi,
Here's a suggestion - I think we should try and make more original DMC info
available on www.dmcnews.com
Since these are publications of a company no longer in business, no
copyright would exist I believe.






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:07:11 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Door Trim Removal.

Pull up on the inside door handle, then pinch your fingers as you slide the
trim panel back into place.

Ouch

Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031


From: DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 5:50 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door Trim Removal.



Then on to the reassembly!

Does anyone have any advice on reinstalling the lower trim
panel? Specificly the door handle. It looks like I need to bolt this
peice in first before the trim panel. But the lip on the outside
holding the trim panel makes this to say the least 'challenging".

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 08:28:49 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?

A few years back, there was a guy on Ebay selling all sorts of odd-ball
stuff.  I contacted him to ask if I could scan all of the documents
before he sold them in order to compile information to post on the web.

He said that he was already working with someone on the DML to do this.
He gave me the name (it was one I recognized), so I figured I would sit
back and wait.  I still has not appeared on the web.  Maybe I will see
if I can find the details in my old mail.


-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_online.no]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 12:36 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?


Hi,
Here's a suggestion - I think we should try and make more original DMC
info available on www.dmcnews.com 
Since these are publications of a company no longer in business, no
copyright would exist I believe.

Occasionally, there are quite a few memorabilia pieces of the DMC
History, being offered on EBAY.
I for instance, have the DeLorean Salesman Fact Booklet. Yet, I have no
problems in copying this for those who don't have it. I don't (and I
believe many with me) don't get any happier by sitting on it/hiding it
from other owners and enthusiasts.

<SNIP>



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 06:55:23 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Remote Starter / Fan Delay

I have remote starting in three cars at present and traded one in on a new
one so a total of four installations.    I put it in the D almost five years
ago and it has worked fine.  I  never give it a thought....If I have not
driven the car for a couple weeks, the battery is weaker and the first time
it takes the second try, but then starts instantlly.  Otherwise it always
starts the first try.    I have it programmed to TRY three times...the delay
is 20 seconds between trys and the starting period is programmed for the
least time which is 2 seconds. If it does not start then it waits the 20
seconds to try again.  It is rare it goes to that cycle tho.   I have two
different brands of Remote modules...in the D the DISTANCE from it is a
factor and I need to be a bit closer to the car for it to start, but I can
STILL be inside a restaurant or near the front of the supermarket....in the
other car it starts from almost any point, much farther away.   Mine are
very reliable and I rarely start the car by using the key.  There are
thousands of them in use or maybe millions!!

It is SO nice on our present 30F degree days to come out to a  nice warm car
or in the summer to a nice cool car. I find it does not overheat in starting
it 10 minutes early but usually I do not wait that long.

Mine in the D was a quite complex installation.  I am not able to "bend"
like I used to ( I am 80) so I had a mechanic do most of the work...he was
experienced in doing this as had a "moonlighting" setup where he has a
waiting list.  I know circuitry so I was his "gopher" and located the
various points on the D for him to run wires.  There are a tremendous number
of "fail safe" hookups....I had the full blown setup, which meant MORE
wiress than just the remote start....my system has a lock/unlock, anti theft
w/siren, remote lights on/off, panic button etc.  The cost was around $500
with labor and he earned his money.  The other car ( a Lincoln Continental)
already had everything but the remote start and that was a total of $250.

Also, I might add that, contrary to popular opinion, Remote Start IS
available for stick shift cars and I have seen several installations. I know
the problems to make them fail safe and they are all solved.....it is a bit
more expensive.

I get more "interesting comments" on the remote start than I do on the D
itself!!
Often someone will come into the restaurant trying to find who left their
car running.  ( I had just started it from inside prior to leaving) .   One
husband is going to get the full installation as a Christmas gift from his
wife.  She heard mine start and no one around. I was walking across the
parking area and saw her stop and wait...she asked if I started the car by
radio control and then asked for my name and phone number so she could get
one for her husband!!  Then there was the time (in the D) that I startled a
lady with an armload of groceries....she dropped them and they rolled
everywhere..apologized and helped her pick them up.....she was not mad and
got a big kick out of it.

Murray Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 15:26:49 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: delorean difference s in year opinions

Since you are still new to the world of Deloreans there are many 
differences among the cars that were produced. Some you have mentioned 
and I will add a couple more
Painted cars
Tailpipes
clock-radio
Recalls
Antennae
Owner installed options such as cruise control and alarms
Zillas
Otterstadt position
This list could go on and on but everyone has their preferences as to 
what they like. The point is that to the "trained eye" no two 
Deloreans are alike as similar as they may appear. I prefer the way 
"mine" looks. I expect that will be the general reaction as owners 
eventually try to modify their car to reflect their preferences. 
Curtis's red car that was in Cleavland is an extreme example of what 
can be accomplished. For what it's worth I think before you get into 
appearance issues you have to start with a RELIABLE and SAFE car. 
Going over the mechanical and electrical systems will be the best 
investment as the primary function of any car is to move you when and 
where you want to go. After you have spent what it takes to make it 
work it tends to temper your spending on the "frills". Best to start 
with a car that looks close to what you really want ie: hood, 
antennae, tailpipes, transmission, and interior.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> i thought this may be an interesting thread... may have been done 
before...
> but i think it'd fun for me : ^ P
> 
> what's your preference;
> 1 hood lines.. y/n
> 2 gas flap......y/n
> 3 plain rub strip or wide styling line or dmc houston's new ital 
design
> styling lines
> 4 black/grey/two tone interior
> 5 manual/automatic





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 15:39:04 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Roof kink

It depends. If the warp or kink is from letting the anchor bracket 
loose during adjusting the torsion bar it means the "T" panel has to 
be removed and straightened out. The bigger problem could be that the 
fiberglass that the anchor bracket is attached to is broken or flexing 
as you open or close the door. If this is the case everything has to 
be removed and repaired either by fiberglass repair methods or adding 
a steel bracket across the back section. If the warp or kink comes and 
goes as you open and close the doors the anchor bracket is moving. Be 
warned adjusting, removing or replacing the torsion bars requires the 
proper tools and experience or you could get hurt and or damage the 
rear glass and "T" panel. You don't need to remove the torsion bars to 
remove the "T" panel but you do need to remove both of them to fix the 
anchors or the fiberglass. Be careful not to scratch the torsion bars!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RFLRKV_at_dml_c... wrote:
>   A previous owner over torqued the driver side 'tension bar' on my 
'81; 
> putting a warp in the stainless steel 't' section. If I relieve the 
tension, 
> will it go away; or am I in for some body work? Anybody?




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 10:41:00 EST
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: delorean difference s in year opinions

I prefer the hood lines and gas flap, although my car has neither. I like the sides plain, without any decoration, I think that the car is great looking without adornment. I prefer the grey interior as it shows less wear and is cooler in the summer. I also think that it makes the interior feel larger, but that may be just me. I prefer the manual to the automatic. My car is an auto, but the manuals I have driven all feel so much faster. That's what I get for buying impatiently. I also prefer the lowered springs because it puts the car in a more sport oriented position. I think that without the springs the car constantly appears to be coming off the line (nose up). I doubt very seriously that I will be changing my car to match these things as it is red and an auto. I am, however, constantly on the lookout for a Delorean to match my specifications to sit next to my current one.

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:47:35 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: RE: delorean difference s in year opinions

For my two cents worth.   I like the clean smooth look, which means NO gas
filler opening in the hood....the hood lines are okay but I think I would
prefer NO lines.  I also will take the DMC logo off the front fake
grille....I prefer the stock side trim...no wide decals.  I have done a LOT
of customizing of cars, but I prefer the D like it is.  I think it would be
difficult to improve on the design even after 20 years.  I prefer an
automatic to a stick shift.....I have had a LOT of stick shift sports cars
and older ones and enjoyed them....however I am older now and tired of
rowing thru the gears all day long.   I used to get a charge out of dropping
into second in my 65 Corvair Corsa Turbo and blasting thru an S turn on a
side street enroute to work in the olden days!  I like the lowered front end
but mine is standard so far and probably will remain that way.  I prefer the
gray upholstery....to me the black feels like it "closing in on me".
Everyone to their own opinion and likes and dislikes. NOTHING is best for
everyone!

Murray Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:11:05 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: LIVE THE DREAM COMMERCIAL ON DVD?

I have someone who can transfer it to DVD.

-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_online.no]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 12:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: DOC UK
Subject: [DML] LIVE THE DREAM COMMERCIAL ON DVD?


As we're already in the electronic age, wouldn't it be nice to have the LIVE
THE DREAM COMMERICAL available on DVD?

But there's one problem, the videos being offered on EBAY are of poor
quality. Does anyone know where the original reels are of these commercials?
I believe them to be 16mm.



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:37:28 -0500
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
Subject: RE: Door Trim Removal.

For the lower trim panel, I have a long bit driver with a 10mm bit at the
end.  I but a little bit of scotch tape inside the bit to hold the bolt in
there, I can then screw in that "door grab" piece's bolts (which are the
last bolts to remove when you remove the lower trim panel and the first
bolts to screw in when replacing)  All te other bolts should be pretty easy
to screw in. I have done this 100 times so let me know if you have any otehr
questions.
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808



> ----------
> From: 	DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com
> Reply To: 	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 3, 2001 6:50 AM
> To: 	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: 	[DML] Door Trim Removal.
> 
> Just an FYI to anyone who is removing their door trim panel. You 
> only need to remove the mirror switch if you are going into the 
> door internals. And if you remove the switch, do so from the 
> BOTTOM! You cannont pry the switch loose from the top. I found 
> this out the hard way, and ended up cracking the switch open. 
> Needless to say, I put the order in already for a new one...
> 
> But not all is lost. I finally got the change to readjust the internal 
> ducting for the side vent. That was a bit of a chore. But after 
> some time, and a few *colorful* words, I got everything to snap 
> into place properly! Although it doesn't look like things went so 
> easy for the person who assembled everything in Dunmurry 
> judging by the large crack in the vent. But after a little foaming 
> insulation, it looks like things will seal quite nicely!
> 
> Then on to the reassembly!
> 
> Does anyone have any advice on reinstalling the lower trim 
> panel? Specificly the door handle. It looks like I need to bolt this 
> peice in first before the trim panel. But the lip on the outside 
> holding the trim panel makes this to say the least 'challenging".
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:38:48 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Legend on Ebay

Well, we now know that car 502 is worth 40K..  But it looks like the
seller wants more than that for it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598456
078&r=0&t=0

I'm interested to see if they sell it anyway.  If anyone on the list is
involved, please keep us up to date!



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 17:24:47 -0000
From: tylergraves_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Lowered springs - just the front?

Hi list,

  I am looking into the possibility of lowering the front ONLY of my 
D. I was hoping someone who has done this could send me a picture? 
I'm mostly concerned with how the car looks from the side with just 
the front lowered. Is this really noticeable? I don't particularly 
like how the stock springs make the front wheels look like they are 
tiny in a large wheel well. 

  How easy is the process? I understand I will need some sort of 
special spring compressor tool. Is that all I need for special tools? 
If someone has a past posting of the procedure, that would be nice to 
have (I looked couldn't find anything). 

  Also, will the car need to be re-aligned with the lowered springs? 
I would like to replace as much as possible while I'm there (shocks, 
pins, nuts bolts); what exactly should I replace? What should I ask 
the vendor for?

Thanks a bunch,
Tyler
# 3472

p.s. Just checked my TA bolts, looks good! The hard ride must be the 
shocks in the back... would be really nice to have a smoother ride.





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 17:43:30 -0000
From: delorean502_at_dml_excite.com
Subject: Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics

Hi,
The same guy who made the Transformer Delorean also made a 1/24th 
scale delorean from scratch.  I have uploaded pics to the PHOTOS 
section under ULTIMATE DELOREAN.  He made everything work, he also 
made a frame for the car.  The headlights works, and he even made 
torsion bars for it.  It really looks good.  Check it out

Erik




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:28:14 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Door Trim Removal.

Put the bracket on the door first, but not the handle part. Put the 
panel on. Then you can attach the handle from above by removing the 
escutcheon (the air grille thingie) and putting the two screws in 
from above. Duct-tape the screws to your screwdriver or socket. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DMCVegas_at_dml_l... wrote:
quite nicely!
> 
> Then on to the reassembly!
> 
> Does anyone have any advice on reinstalling the lower trim 
> panel? Specificly the door handle. It looks like I need to bolt 
this 
> peice in first before the trim panel. But the lip on the outside 
> holding the trim panel makes this to say the least 'challenging".
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:32:27 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Door Struts?

This should not be all that far-fetched. They have used these on 
minivan tailgates for years. Without torsion bars, and that's one 
heavy door. The only thing I can think of that may cause a problem 
with this is that the struts on the DeLorean are relatively short, 
i.e. not much room to work in. The struts on a Chrysler minivan, by 
comparison, are the same diameter but at least twice the length. The 
temperature compensation of these is excellent, they work the same no 
matter what the temperature and, in my case, have been doing so for 
six years. Too bad they won't fit the DMC. 

Something for the vendors to toss at whomever is making the door 
struts. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:
I propose, and I guess you can put this on the "wish list", a 
> temperature compensated strut for the doors. It makes a lot more 
sense 
> than trying to heat them or adjusting the torsion bars twice a 
year. 




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:44:24 -0000
From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: #1458 has problems...

I think you have several problems some of which are not interelated. 
When it won't start at all you must first make sure you have spark. 
The no starting may be electrical in nature. The hard start could also 
be electrical but I am guessing fuel. You will need to go over the 
systems that operate from when the car is cold until warm-up. Also 
make sure the lambda system isn't dying on you. That would cause 
running problems as son as the cold start comes off and would kill 
most of the engine's power. If the car hasn't had a tune-up in a long 
time now might be a good time. Secondary ignition breakdown could 
cause some or all of these symptoms. Also inspect all of the vacuum 
hoses, a vacuum leak makes a bad running motor worse.
 If you don't like the way the oil pressure gauge indicates you could 
replace the sending unit. One of the list members has a better sender 
that more accurately indicates oil pressure. It is a simple remove and 
replace, you just have to change the clip on the wire.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi All,





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:45:23 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Heated Door Struts?

--- In dmcnews, David Teitelbaum wrote;

> Heating  the struts is just another way to kill the battery
> quicker. That's  probably why they never installed the
> side mirror heaters.

I was in the process of trying to install mirror heating.
Due to my unfortunate accident I can't work on that now, but I do 
know that the original way of connecting things is NOT logical; 
whenever you have the ignition on there's a constant drain by the 
heaters.
Most cars have an auxilary switch for the heaters or have them 
connected in parrallel with the rear window defogger. I know my 
Escort would have them connected that way if they had been 
installed... (just found the wiring diagram for my car!)

Anyway, I'll just have to wait for my cars' repairs, then I'll see 
wheter I'll install them and/or how.

Cheers,

Jan van de Wouw

Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since sept. 2000.
--------------------




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 22:45:39 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: louvre paint

Hi James

When I got my car, the louvers looked AWFUL. The advice I was given was "these things
NEVER need painting". I wasn't convinced. Dave Howarth swears by a simple, cheap pot of
petroleum jelly. This effectively gives the louvers a permanent "wet" look. If you run a
wet cloth over them, do they turn black? This is the effect you get.

Personally I used a product available over here called Black Trim Wax by a company called
Car Plan - the same lot that make T-cut. In 20 minutes my louvers were transformed and
now look brand new. I have added another coat since then, and intend to keep doing so.
There are pictures at

www.delorean.co.uk/1458and2727.html

Best 3.50 I've spent on my car so far. I've used it on all the black trim and it looks
fantastic and covers up some minor stains I had.

The hot-start quick fix is described here - I think this is what you're looking for??

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/hotstart.htm

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458
www.delorean.co.uk

James LaLonde wrote:

> what are the louvres made of? and how were they originally painted/color...
> mine are very dull and scratched a bit. same with the non-fuctional 'vents'
> behind the door and the intake vents..
> any recommendation on how to repaint/resurface these?
>
> also could someone help with the cold start diagnostic. i read it on
> dmcnews... but... just be sure i'm right here... should i just connect the
> blue-black wire to the blue-white wire on the harness that plugs into the
> thermo-time switch.. and that should make the cold-start valve functional
> regardless of the temp.  correct?
>
> thanks!
> james lalonde '81   vin001697




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:53:54 -0500
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics

How the heck did this guy do this?  That is a very small model.  Does he
work for a special effects studio or something?  He is really good.


Joseph

Vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: [DML] Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics


> Hi,
> The same guy who made the Transformer Delorean also made a 1/24th
> scale delorean from scratch.  I have uploaded pics to the PHOTOS
> section under ULTIMATE DELOREAN.  He made everything work, he also
> made a frame for the car.  The headlights works, and he even made
> torsion bars for it.  It really looks good.  Check it out
>
> Erik
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 23:05:38 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: #1458 has problems...

Thanks, I may not have made it clear in my original post that the car's starting fine now
I've replaced the warm up reg with my original one. Starting isn't the problem (now), but
I'm baffled by the anaemic power while it's warming up. If the lambda was out of whack,
it over-fuels, which would surely mean bad and smokey performance, even when hot (am I
right here?). It does not smoke, and perks up when hot, though not as much as when stone
cold - it's still fun though.

As I said in my original mail, I replaced the oil pressure sender with a new OEM Renault
one. Parts like THAT are very easy and cheap to get over here :-)

I'm also still wondering what that Upper-left connection on the resistor pair is for and
why my car only runs with it disconnected?

Martin
#1458
www.delorean.co.uk

jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net wrote:

> I think you have several problems some of which are not interelated.
> When it won't start at all you must first make sure you have spark.
> The no starting may be electrical in nature. The hard start could also
> be electrical but I am guessing fuel. You will need to go over the
> systems that operate from when the car is cold until warm-up. Also
> make sure the lambda system isn't dying on you. That would cause
> running problems as son as the cold start comes off and would kill
> most of the engine's power. If the car hasn't had a tune-up in a long
> time now might be a good time. Secondary ignition breakdown could
> cause some or all of these symptoms. Also inspect all of the vacuum
> hoses, a vacuum leak makes a bad running motor worse.
>  If you don't like the way the oil pressure gauge indicates you could
> replace the sending unit. One of the list members has a better sender
> that more accurately indicates oil pressure. It is a simple remove and
> replace, you just have to change the clip on the wire.




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 23:15:59 -0000
From: mark_at_dml_wizwarecomputers.com
Subject: Re: Lowered springs - just the front?

I put on PJ Grady's front lowering springs a month ago.

They made the car look normal and handle MUCH better. I have seen a 
car with the DMC Houston kit on it and it looks great...it actually 
looks lowered. I have not been able to compare the handling of the 
two yet however. I like the clearance I have with the Grady kit, but 
I like the 'lowered' look of the Houston kit.

Handling is what really matters to me. I need more time to 
investigate. I am DEFINITELY happy with the Grady kit though.

I put the springs on, didn't notice much of a difference in height, 
and then after a hundred miles or so, it settled down perfectly. At 
that point I went and got re-aligned. Any time you change the height 
of the suspension you need to get an alignment.

I did replace the front shocks with NOS while I was in there. That is 
the time to do it...I wished I had the dough to buy the Grady shocks 
as well. I probably will get those next year.

Mark
#10901

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., tylergraves_at_dml_h... wrote:
> Hi list,
> 
>   I am looking into the possibility of lowering the front ONLY of 
my 
> D. I was hoping someone who has done this could send me a picture? 
> I'm mostly concerned with how the car looks from the side with just 
> the front lowered. Is this really noticeable? I don't particularly 
> like how the stock springs make the front wheels look like they are 
> tiny in a large wheel well. 
> 
>   How easy is the process? I understand I will need some sort of 
> special spring compressor tool. Is that all I need for special 
tools? 
> If someone has a past posting of the procedure, that would be nice 
to 
> have (I looked couldn't find anything). 
> 
>   Also, will the car need to be re-aligned with the lowered 
springs? 
> I would like to replace as much as possible while I'm there 
(shocks, 
> pins, nuts bolts); what exactly should I replace? What should I ask 
> the vendor for?
> 
> Thanks a bunch,
> Tyler
> # 3472
> 
> p.s. Just checked my TA bolts, looks good! The hard ride must be 
the 
> shocks in the back... would be really nice to have a smoother ride.




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 15:37:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Heated Door Struts?

Are these struts actually heated or are they using a gas that isn't
affected by temperature as much as our DeLorean struts?

-Christian

On Mon, 3 Dec 2001, David Swingle wrote:

> This should not be all that far-fetched. They have used these on
> minivan tailgates for years. Without torsion bars, and that's one
> heavy door. The only thing I can think of that may cause a problem
> with this is that the struts on the DeLorean are relatively short,
> i.e. not much room to work in. The struts on a Chrysler minivan, by
> comparison, are the same diameter but at least twice the length. The
> temperature compensation of these is excellent, they work the same no
> matter what the temperature and, in my case, have been doing so for
> six years. Too bad they won't fit the DMC.
>
> Something for the vendors to toss at whomever is making the door
> struts.
>
> Dave Swingle
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jtrealty_at_dml_w... wrote:
> I propose, and I guess you can put this on the "wish list", a
> > temperature compensated strut for the doors. It makes a lot more
> sense
> > than trying to heat them or adjusting the torsion bars twice a
> year.
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 18:39:25 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Door Trim Removal.

Ski wax is better than duck tape (for holding screws onto bits). Just dab
the tip in, it doesn't take much and holds it very well. I learned that long
ago in a cold galaxy far, far away... but unfortunately, don't live in a ski
location anymore.
I wonder is surfboard wax works?

Kevin
#4687
Hot/Humid Houston

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 12:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Door Trim Removal.


> Duct-tape the screws to your screwdriver or socket.





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 00:59:52 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: delorean difference s in year opinions

Here is what Winged1 looks like, and this is also what I prefer:

I have an early hood with the lines and the flap.  More practical, and 
causes people to ask the question ... "What is that flap for?".  The 
stock sides with the thin rub strip let the car look lower.  I think 
that the wide stripes give the car a "heavy look".  I have the 
two-tone interior, but with a grey dash cover and grey sheepskin seat 
covers.  The covers are to keep my perfect interior ... perfect.  I 
will admit that I have "droopy headliners" that have been temporarily 
repaired, but I plan to do grey leather replacements when I get a 
chance.  I never could understand why anybody would want an automatic 
transmission in a sports car, so I have a 5-speed.  I also have a huge 
left leg from participating in parades, which we do fairly often here 
in the northwest.  For suspension, I designed new springs which are 
20% softer than original, and set the car at the stance that was shown 
in Stainless Steel Illusion.  The drop was 3.5 inches in the front, 
and 1.75 inches in the rear.  I worked with Carrera Shocks, and got 
them to develop a part number that they also agreed to carry.  My car 
has the prototypes on it.  The shocks are stainless steel, with 
teflon-lined spherical bearing ends, and are three-way adjustable for 
jounce and rebound.  My car has an exceptional ride quality, but also 
handles very well.  I also pulled out the side skirts slightly to give 
the car a lower look, and have added a 1.5 inch wide rubber lip to the 
front airdam and the side skirts to accentuate the lower look and keep 
air out from underneath the car.  I also have one of the first rear 
sway bars that Addco made from the president's car.  Awesome addition 
for handling.  I have also modified the attachments of the rear bar a 
bit to tighten things up ... teflon-lined Heim joints, etc. 

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> i thought this may be an interesting thread... may have been done 
before...





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