From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 825
Date: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 2:52 PM

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There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Accumalator
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Accumalator
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. RE: Accumalator
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

4. Re:Door struts and Gasoline
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: Torsion Bars ReVisited
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Torsion Bars and other economic lessons
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

7. RE: Parts Gone
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Voice Modeules for the Delorean
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1_at_dml_att.net>

9. RELATED? Electrical Problems
From: "John & Diane Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_toast.net>

10. Air filter housing by Casey Putsch
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>

11. Re: Accumalator
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Accumalator
From: Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie>

13. Re: Parts Gone
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanm_at_dml_atlcom.net>

14. Pre-work checklist.
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: Air filter housing by Casey Putsch
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

16. Re: RELATED? Electrical Problems
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

17. Re: RELATED? Electrical Problems
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: RELATED? Electrical Problems
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

19. RE: Voice Modules for the Delorean
From: "Selden, Wayne" <wayne.selden_at_dml_tenethealth.com>

20. Re: Parts Gone
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:35:38 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Accumalator

In a message dated 12/10/01 11:18:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie writes:

<< Then after about 20 miles  the car on acceleration seemed to start bucking 
around, (like it was out of petrol), and it has continued to do so since. (it 
does it from start up now) >>
Nick,

   It sounds to me like you are sucking up air in the fuel tank and thats 
where the "bucking" is coming from.  Do you notice this happens more with a 
half a tank or less?  Is the suction hose inside the tank the original one 
thats known for collapsing?  Thats the first place I would look for the fuel 
problem.

And about the alternator.  Maybe the belt is loose and when shifting gears or 
slowing down, the lower RPMs of the engine is making the alternator not turn 
as fast and if the belt is loose then the belt will be slipping off the 
alternator pulley causing the voltage will drop.  Do you notice the belt 
squealing at all?  Hope that helps at all.

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:30:56 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Accumalator

Your bucking problem could have several causes including electrical 
relating to either bad connections or whatever. The first things to 
rule out are a kinked or cut suction hose and a plugged up fuel 
filter. When an accumulater goes bad the diaghram inside breaks up 
into little black rubber pieces and they could be plugging up the fuel 
system. Another possability is the lambda circuit died. You should 
hear a loud buzzing in the area of the right side valve cover.
 The electrical problems might be due to dirty, loose connections. As 
in previous posts inspect, clean, and tighten all grounding 
connections.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> Hi All
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction 
concerning a problem I am having. I had the fuel accumaltor replaced 2 
weeks ago and the car seemed to run fine. I hadn't really driven it  
untill friday night last and eveything seemed fine. Then after about 
20 miles  the car on acceleration seemed to start bucking around, 
(like it was out of petrol), and it has continued to do so since. (it 





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 12:48:50 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Accumalator

Low voltage to the fuel pump will cause low fuel pressure and the symtoms you describe.
Jim 6147



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:07:41 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:Door struts and Gasoline

In a message dated 12/9/01 7:34:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net writes:


> I try not to let attendants fill my car 
> 

For anyone wondering why fending off sloppy gas station attendants is a 
problem- David, (like me,) is a New Jersey resident, one of only two states 
where it's illegal to pump your own gas!  But most will let you do it anyway, 
under the circumstances.  They'd rather stand back and look at the car.  :-)

Wayne
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:50:09 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion Bars ReVisited

John,

I can tell you from experience that posting to the DML will not get you a
flood of responses for people wanting a particular part.  I thought that
almost everyone who has a DeLorean would want at least one convex mirror
made for the passenger side (if not both sides), but I have only had about a
dozen people wanting them.  Why there are few testimonials on the list
raving about how good they are is because I haven't had time to make many.
That will change soon.

Put me down for one torsion bar if you can have them made.  My driver's door
has always been a royal pain for adjustments.  If the torsion bar ever
broke, the car would basically not be drivable on any kind of regular basis.
First, I would feel pretty ridiculous trying to open an 80lb door.  Second,
I would do too much damage to the car's interior by using the passenger door
and climbing over the center console.  I bet that when someone who uses
their car regularly has a torsion bar break and they can't get one -- then
they may be even willing to front the $7500 to have a batch made.

Aren't there any altruistic millionaires on the list who would want to do
this?  I would have a lot more fun loosing $7500 on torsion bars than
blowing it at a casino in Vegas.

Walt    Tampa, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
>That's why I was trying to see who might want
> one or two. So far not enough.





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:36:54 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bars and other economic lessons

This is about the reaction you should expect. I don't believe that 
there are 100 cars sitting around needing a left-hand torsion bar 
today, any more than there are 100 cars needing a LF fender. There 
may be over the next few years, but people (at least not a 
significant number) will NOT usually buy a part years before they 
will need it. 

When individuals tool up and do a run on items such as grille bras, 
they get a large response because many people can use them at once. 

On a replacement part, you'd better be prepared to keep inventory for 
a long time. This is probably the most important service that the 
major DeLorean vendors provide to the community, the willingess to 
develop and sit on expensive inventory for years before they make the 
investment back. Their cost of this is reflected in their margins on 
everyday parts, but it is important, and good for us, to keep them 
ALL in the business. 

Dave Swingle <---No affiliation with any of the vendors, other than 
thru my credit card.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Richard, If the bars are going to be remade, then someone has to 
pay for it. 
> 50, 100 bars who knows.....




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:17:02 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Parts Gone

I know I can't get any off the shelf parts for my Legend..  If you have
a source, please let me know!

-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10 [mailto:dherv10_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 10:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Parts Gone


Group, I was talking to a DML'er off the list about Torsion bars and  
Legend Turbo's and I was wondering how many parts are missing or can 
be got by picking up the phone and calling one of the vendors. I 
<SNIP>



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 03:22:05 -0000
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Voice Modeules for the Delorean

They say what is old is new again. In the 80's when the Delorean Club 
of America was still around, they sold a diagnostic voice module that 
would tell you if a light was burned out and many other things. Later 
in the Delorean World Magazines there was an advertisment 
for "Autotalk". The ad that I am looking at is in Volume 6, Delorean 
Expo '89 Issue, page 20. In the ad it refers to the device as having 
the personality of "Tiffany" and the personalities were 
interchangable by changing a chip. If anybody wants the address, let 
me know. 




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 02:37:23 -0500
From: "John & Diane Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_toast.net>
Subject: RELATED? Electrical Problems

Hi everybody,

I just got my Delorean back from a body shop after having some dents in the
front fender and doors repaired.  There are now 3 different electrical
problems with it.  When engaging the left turn signal, the rear light
flashes fast and the front parking light doesn't flash at all.  I replaced
both bulbs and it still does this.  Also, the driver's window does not move,
but the passenger window works fine. Finally, half way home, the speedometer
stopped working.  It was reading 65 mph, then dropped and started bouncing
at around 35 and went completely dead.  Are all three of these electrical
problems somehow related, or just a really bizarre coincidence?  By the way,
the body shop put a  new battery in the car, it's an AC/Delco sealed
battery.  Anybody who has any suggestions, please help me out.  Thanks.

John Pietrowski
Toledo Ohio #4945




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:02:52 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Air filter housing by Casey Putsch

Hi all,

I have recently received and installed my air filter that I purchased 
of Casey earlier this year.
Whilst the design could probably do with some slight refinement, as I 
found the brackets that hold the lower filter housing in place 
required some adjustment, I am very impressed with the design.
And I do believe that the car has had a noticeable increase in power 
without even changing the filter element.

Just so that I did not think it was in my imagination I let my friend 
drive it around when we were in the local village and without telling 
him that I had installed the new airbox he actually said to me that 
it seemed "a little nippier than usual".

I am not going to say that the difference was enormous, in all 
honesty I brought it mainly because it looks so much smarter than the 
original.

Thanks Casey

Nice logo on the side, it finishes it off nicely.

Regards


James RG
Colchester
England

P.S. Does anyone have a reference for the K&N Filter element which 
fits the DeLorean? Preferably one that I can get in a UK shop.





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:19:23 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Accumalator

Nick, The accumulator doesn't have anything to do the with the bucking, it 
just holds pressure on the system after the car is turned off. 
#1. My first question is: How old is the fuel pump
#2. How much gas was in the tank
#3. Does the bucking start when the voltage goes down to 8 volts.
Answers to the question: 
#1. If the pump is old and as the level of gas goes down the pump will not 
self prime it's self. The roller bearings that actually do the pumping will 
wear and the space in the pump will widen and this could be one problem. Some 
cars have a primer pump totally immersed in the tank. They must have had some 
forsite into this problem.
#2. The level of gas coupled with the old pump will have a harder time in 
keeping gas to flow. Thus a bucking if it misses a beat.
#3. If the voltage drops that low, then the relay in the RPM relay will open 
and shut off the pump for an instant. Thus the bucking.
#4. Check the connections to the Inertia switch. If they are not tight, they 
will heat up and seperate for an instant and you will have the bucking.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 12
Date: 11 Dec 2001 11:57:48 +0000
From: Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie>
Subject: Re: Accumalator

Hi group DML

The one thing I didn't check, (but did last night!), was fuel. I put a few gallons in and it seems grand again. The fuel gauge was reading over 1/4 full, no light on or anything. The sensor must be a bit iffy.

Thanks for the suggestion about the Altenator. Will look at that now.

Cheers

Nick


On 12/10/01, jwit6_at_dml_cs.com wrote:
>Low voltage to the fuel pump will cause low fuel pressure and the 
>symtoms you describe.
>Jim 6147
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 14:25:31 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanm_at_dml_atlcom.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Gone

I know you cannot get new steering column trim both upper and lower. 
The T panel hold down cover screen is still unavailable(houston said 
maybe by the first of the year)Nor can you get a new radiator duct 
piece. 




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:19:12 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Pre-work checklist.

I have been actively reading the DML, seeing all these problems that 
seem to arise after having sent a vehicle to a repair shop. I thought 
it would be a good idea if, as a group, we came up with some basic 
items and created a pre / post -repair checklist. Such things as the 
condition of various parts of the car, and functionality of lights, 
switches, etc.. It would certainly save everyone headaches when 
getting their cars to a local shop, by haveing the mechanic as well 
as yourself to check seals, switches, rips, dents etc.. and both of 
you signing off on the sheet what needs to be done. I know that there 
is a stnadard battery of tests that some Car audio dealers check 
before working on a vehicle. This same principle should help 
everyone, as many repair shops ignorantly start tearing into the car 
to see what's wrong, and break other things in the process.

Anyone want to tackle this one?


-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:01:14 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Air filter housing by Casey Putsch

I have installed K & N part number NM33-2002 in my stock filter 
housing.  The width is perfect, and the length is very close.  I used 
a short length of 5/16" vacuum hose on each end as a spacer to keep 
the element centered in the housing.  I am very happy with it.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_b...> wrote:

> 
> P.S. Does anyone have a reference for the K&N Filter element which 
> fits the DeLorean? Preferably one that I can get in a UK shop.




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:00:30 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: RELATED? Electrical Problems

Fast turn signal:

It sounds like the front turn signal bulb is loose in the socket. 
When I had this on my car, I simply unscrewed the fixture, and 
jiggled the wires untill the blink was normal again. Remounted, 
and all was fine.

Non responding window:
Could be a loose wire on the switch, or perhaps even a failed 
motor. You'll need to perform a few more diagnostics to be sure. 
i.e. does the motor make a sound, but no movement?

Failed speedometor:
This is a non-electrical problem. I've never had an angle drive fail 
on me, so I honestly do know the exact symptoms. But, I had very 
simrlar problems like you're having when the dust cap on on my 
car failed to properly grip any longer (makes the connection 
between the angle drive input shaft, and the turning hub). My 
speedo wouldn't work, then all of the sudden it would bounce 
from like 0-60-and then back to 0 again. Most likely you'll need to 
remove the drivers side front wheel to inspect for tightness on 
the cap.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 17:49:03 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: RELATED? Electrical Problems

As simple as it may be to blame all of these things on 1 problem they 
are probably not related. The electrical problem involving the lights 
is probably caused by the body shop when they worked on the car either 
unplugged or disconnected something and didn't put it back right. 
Remove and inspect all of the bulbs on the left side of the car. 
Either you have a blown bulb or it is the wrong type or installed 
incorrectly.
 The window is either a bad switch (common) or if you hear noises 
inside the door when you hit the switch the regulater failed (also 
common).
 The speedo is DEFINNATLY not related as it isn't even electrical. 
Very common failure points are the plastic "dust cover", the angle 
drive, and the lower cable. By removing the left front wheel and 
inspecting the speedo drive you will find the source of the trouble.
 Changing the battery should not have caused any of this.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "John & Diane Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> 
> I just got my Delorean back from a body shop after having some dents 
in the
> front fender and doors repaired.  There are now 3 different 
electrical
> problems with it.  When engaging the left turn signal, the rear 
light
> flashes fast and the front parking light doesn't flash at all.  I 
replaced





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 17:47:18 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: RELATED? Electrical Problems

John - I don't have all of the answers for you, but ... the flasher 
problem indicates (to me) that either the wires are not properly 
connected to the front light socket, or there is corrosion or some 
other problem in the socket itself that prevents proper contact for 
the bulb.  The "fast flash" is normally indicative of a bad bulb, but 
you say that you've changed it.  The speedometer failure is normally 
associated with the right-angle drive mechanism at the left front 
wheel, which is prone to failure due to insufficient lubrication, or 
one of the drive cables from the drive to the speedometer itself.  
It could even be the little plastic cap on the wheel hub that 
engages the drive cable into the angle drive.  It is a totally 
mechanical system, and is fairly easy to trouble shoot.  For the 
window problem, I would guess that they didn't get all of the 
connections correct after getting into the doors for dent repairs.  
They probably had to remove some window hardware to access the 
external skin from the inside, and perhaps didn't get it all back 
together correctly.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "John & Diane Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> 
> I just got my Delorean back from a body shop after having some dents 
in the
> front fender and doors repaired.  There are now 3 different 
electrical
> problems with it.  When engaging the left turn signal, the rear 
light
> flashes fast and the front parking light doesn't flash at all.  I 
replaced
> both bulbs and it still does this.  Also, the driver's window does 
not move,
> but the passenger window works fine. Finally, half way home, the 
speedometer
> stopped working.  It was reading 65 mph, then dropped and started 
bouncing
> at around 35 and went completely dead.  Are all three of these 
electrical
> problems somehow related, or just a really bizarre coincidence?  By 
the way,
> the body shop put a  new battery in the car, it's an AC/Delco sealed
> battery.  Anybody who has any suggestions, please help me out.  
Thanks.
> 
> John Pietrowski
> Toledo Ohio #4945




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 11:31:19 -0600
From: "Selden, Wayne" <wayne.selden_at_dml_tenethealth.com>
Subject: RE: Voice Modules for the Delorean

I am definitely interested in purchasing this voice module. If anyone
knows the price and is familiar with the product, please share your
knowledge with other Delorean owners. How do we order this and what are
the phone numbers?

Wayne R. Selden



-----Original Message-----
From: carnut4849 [mailto:gmfm1_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 7:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Voice Modeules for the Delorean


They say what is old is new again. In the 80's when the Delorean Club 
of America was still around, they sold a diagnostic voice module that 
would tell you if a light was burned out and many other things. Later 
in the Delorean World Magazines there was an advertisment 
for "Autotalk". The ad that I am looking at is in Volume 6, Delorean 
Expo '89 Issue, page 20. In the ad it refers to the device as having 
the personality of "Tiffany" and the personalities were 
interchangable by changing a chip. If anybody wants the address, let 
me know. 



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 





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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:53:38 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts Gone

In a message dated 12/11/01 12:12:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
seanm_at_dml_atlcom.net writes:

<< Nor can you get a new radiator duct 
 piece.  >>
PJ Grady sells remanufactured ones out of fibreglass.  My car didn't have the 
radiator duct so I bought it from them.  When they had them made, they made 
them out of 2 pieces so its a little bit easier to install.  

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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