From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 834
Date: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:54 PM

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Need advice on adjusting headlights...
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

3. Re: Re: Replacing the headlight...
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

4. "Black" DeLoreans
From: "Chris Boden" <cboden_at_dml_thegeekgroup.org>

5. Fascia or hood adjustment ?
From: "stephenjpattison" <steve_at_dml_cpcrx.com>

6. Re: "Black" DeLoreans
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

7. RE: Need advice on adjusting headlights...
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

8. Re: Replacing the headlight...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Almost there...
From: "Tony Pistachio" <thenutman_at_dml_prodigy.net>

10. RE: Re: "Black" DeLoreans
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1_at_dml_mindspring.com>

11. Re:Re: "Black" DeLoreans
From: comet4055_at_dml_juno.com

12. Seal Problems continued
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>

13. RE: Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:22:55 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Need advice on adjusting headlights...

> My headlights point to far downward and I really need to adjust them. Can
> they be adjusted just by turning the two adjustment screws, or does this
> procedure require removal of the chrome bracket, lights etc.?
> Thanks, Adam

You don't need to remove the chrome bracket.  Just use a philips screwdriver
to turn the larger screws around the edges of the headlight.  "Tightening" a
screw moves the headlight in the direction of that screw.  "Loosening" the
screw turns it away provided that the spring works and nothing is binding.
If the assembly doesn't pivot, then push the edge of the light with your
hand until you feel the spring retract.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:44:06 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function.

I must disagree with you on this John.  You say the air valve is to 
keep water in the fuel system from freezing?  Well if there is enough 
water in the system to freeze, you have a bigger problem anyways.  
And when the car sits out in the cold without running, it will freeze 
with or without the valve because the car isn't running.  Water in 
the fuel system has nothing to do with this.  And about running the 
car in extremely cold climates...  Here in MN, I have driven my 
DeLorean in temperatures in the lower teens.  I HAVE removed my hot 
air valve.  But I noticed no difference in the warmup time with or 
without the air valve.  Takes about 4 times longer to heat up than my 
Talon, but I dont care.  (We're tough with the cold here in MN).

And completely off topic, but I would be still driving my DeLorean 
now, if we didn't have the one snowstorm a month ago.  There still is 
some leftover salt, and there hasn't been any rain to wash it away.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
>Your also correct in certain parts of the 
> country and in certain weather conditions 
> ( Freezing ) the air flow valve is necessary to keep the water in 
the fuel 
> system from freezing. But, as I understand it, most of the cars in 
sub 
> freezing weather are in storage due to not wanting to get the car 
in a 
> potential accident and salt on the roads.




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:53:19 EST
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: Re: Replacing the headlight...

I will have to do this all in daylight as suggested, as I am not seeing
the smaller screws that are supposed to be under the light.  As
Webmaster said, I am only seeing the ones above, but as Dave
admitted my other screws may just be missing.

Thanks for the help everyone,

Richard



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:56:42 -0500
From: "Chris Boden" <cboden_at_dml_thegeekgroup.org>
Subject: "Black" DeLoreans

What happened to the hundred or so "Preproduction" DeLoreans? They were used to setup and train the workforce in the factory and were made without the stainless body panels. 
Have any of them turned up in the market? Were they finished and sold as regular DMC-12s? 

Just curious. 



--
Christopher A. Boden



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:13:01 -0000
From: "stephenjpattison" <steve_at_dml_cpcrx.com>
Subject: Fascia or hood adjustment ?

My front hood rubs against the fascia just in the center of the front 
edge of the hood.  The alignment close to the outer corners on the 
front edge looks good but no clearance in the center.  I think I'd 
need to loosen the fascia along the top and try to pull the center 
forward ?  It's always been like this, not the result of any damage 
or bumping into anything.

Thanks,
Steve
Vin2528
San Diego




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:29:57 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: Re: "Black" DeLoreans

I only know of one DeLorean with a very low VIN here in Norway (not 
under the original DMC guarantee) ... The VIN is 556, black, manual. 
The car is finished with stainless steel panels and in US spec. My 
best guess is that this is a Dyno-car...Dyno Industries in Norway 
made the high density plastic fuel tank...so it could be a DeLorean 
used for development/fitting/updates of the fuel tank. The reg.nr. is 
old and from the area around Oslo which is the capital of Norway.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Chris Boden" <cboden_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> What happened to the hundred or so "Preproduction" DeLoreans? They 
were used to setup and train the workforce in the factory and were 
made without the stainless body panels. 
> Have any of them turned up in the market? Were they finished and 
sold as regular DMC-12s? 




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:03:15 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: Need advice on adjusting headlights...

I don't like to be "picky" but the "chromed bracket" is actually thin
stainless steel, and as such responds well to a quick polish.
 If it were chrome, you would have to be careful polishing it up, as you
could go through the plating.

Chris Parnham  (Chrome plater). DOC UK

-----Original Message-----

> My headlights point to far downward and I really need to adjust them. Can
> they be adjusted just by turning the two adjustment screws, or does this
> procedure require removal of the chrome bracket, lights etc.?
> Thanks, Adam

You don't need to remove the chrome bracket.





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 01:17:58 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Replacing the headlight...

Hi Richard

There are two screws along the top which go through two "tabs" in the chrome bracket -
you have to lift up the fascia to see them. The bracket also has a screw on each side -
but at different heights. They are like this because all four brackets are identical and
it allows them to sit next to each other.

In between the headlights, you have a black strip thingy which mounts to the LOWER
mounting screw, and one of the two top mounting screws of the outer light. This has a
hole in it to allow access to the adjustment screw. Don't confuse this with the mounting
screw!

A lot of what I've said above probably doesn't make sense, but I promise as Doc Brown
said "it all becomes clear" :-)

There are two screws at the top, and one each side, but you have to remove the black
strip first, which on one side of the car will mean removing one of the mounting screws
fo the other light......

Oh I'm messing this up. I'd go and take a picture but the car's under cover! I had the
"advantage" of my car missing one of the black strips so I could see how it all went
together! If you get stuck, I'll draw it for you.

Martin
#1458

RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com wrote:

> I will have to do this all in daylight as suggested, as I am not seeing
> the smaller screws that are supposed to be under the light.  As
> Webmaster said, I am only seeing the ones above, but as Dave
> admitted my other screws may just be missing.
>
> Thanks for the help everyone,
>
> Richard




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:14:39 -0500
From: "Tony Pistachio" <thenutman_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Almost there...

Just wanted to share my excitement with the group.
Today I locked in a deal with Rob Grady on #10781.
Thanks for the advice Dan!


Tony Pistachio
Soon to be #10781
Wappingers Falls, NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:21:02 -0500
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: "Black" DeLoreans



    hello all  in reference to the black deloreans/ i have just acquired
#686. this car has several thing that make it different from the later ones.
the frame# is 265. the coating on the rear pontons is also a different type.
if any one has any extra information on this car please let me know .thanx
bob miller several vin #s




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 05:12:55 GMT
From: comet4055_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: Re:Re: "Black" DeLoreans

Vin # 556 would be a normal production car, beings as the numbering began at 501 for production DeLoreans.

Trevor Johnson
# 6974 and 4055
www.deloreancars.homestead.com



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 00:13:47 -0500
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
Subject: Seal Problems continued

Alright, I mounted a screen at the air intake by the windsheild, I believe
this is where a lot of leaves came in, however, There is one otehr area that
I cannot figure out.  The copper pipes which come in by the accumulator in
the passenger foot well, simply come in... I mean there is no insulation
there, just a hole with pipes entering the compartment,  What can I put here
to properly insulate this area?
Thanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 06:31:38 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Re: Heat Stove Function.

Under the right conditions, temp and humidity, running without preheated air entering the intake tract can cause carb/throttle body ice build up. This may not be a common problem with Deloreans but has happened to me on other automobiles and is entirely possible on the D. The engineers knew this and although the Delorean doesn't have the restrictive venturi of a conventional carb, it's still capable of icing up.

"dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net> wrote:

>I must disagree with you on this John.  You say the air valve is to 
>keep water in the fuel system from freezing?  



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