From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 839
Date: Sunday, December 23, 2001 1:42 PM

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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fan Zilla
From: "Walter Coe" <>

2. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: "Walter Coe" <>

3. Re: Re: brake runout specs
From: Jan van de Wouw <>

4. RE: Fan Zilla
From: "Jerry Condray" <>

5. Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

6. RE: Old magazine
From: "Michael Babb" <>

7. Weird brakes
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 01:49:30 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: Fan Zilla

Did your fans work properly before you installed the FanZilla?  And if so,
did converting back to the old stuff get it working right again?  Keep in
mind that your otterstat may not be sensitive enough.  Mine doesn't click on
until the coolant temperature reaches around 220 or sometimes a needle width
higher.  I have a new one to put in but haven't gotten around to it, and I
almost always run the a/c here in Florida.  To rule out a problem with the
otterstat, just switch the a/c on.  But remember that if your a/c doesn't
work (i.e. the compressor doesn't kick on due to low refrigerant) then
neither will it trigger the radiator fans to come on.  Another thing to look
out for are the female spade terminals in the relay sockets backing out and
falling down.  I've had that happen to me before.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 02:01:33 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid

Just thought I'd let ya'll know how I resolved the epoxy damage on my car:
My old master cylinder developed a massive leak.  I thought the puddle on
the floor was radiator fluid, but it turned out to be brake fluid.  I took
the fuel tank cover off and had brake fluid drip out everywhere.  Since I
cleaned it up soon after the leak started, the brake fluid wasn't in contact
with the epoxy for very long to damage it.  Most of the damge was to the
horizontal bottom sides of the frame and to the fuel tank cover.  The
vertical surfaces of the frame around the fuel tank didn't get any
remarkable damage because the fluid didn't puddle there.  Most of the
repairs I did to the epoxy were from cracks.  I flaked off what I could and
then painted it with rubberized undercoat.  It looks nasty, but it should
slow the rust down until I can replace the frame with a SS one. :)

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 13:58:42 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <>
Subject: Re: Re: brake runout specs

David Teitelbaum wrote:

> There are no published specs for the runout of the rotors. There is
> also no published spec on parellelism. In general the runout should be
> kept below .0025" and parelleism .0005". (Parden my speeling).

I wrote:

> But I happen to have the WorkShop Manual for my Escort too!
> For my Escort the maximum allowable runout/wobble is 0,15mm.

Then Walter Coe wrote:

>> I'm going to have to convert
>> David T's specs to metric before I can understand them (yep, I hate
>> the old system!  I can't even put those numbers into perspective
>> without converting.) The specs that Jan gave don't make much sense
>> either.  You are only supposed to use commas every three digits,
>> so 0,15mm makes no sense.  Do you mean 0.15mm?  I think I have a
>> lot more run-out than that.  I'll get back later with some real
>> numbers once I get the car up on jacks again.

.0025" = 0.0635mm
.0005" = 0.0127mm

Yes I DID mean 0.15, but on our side of the big pond the use for
commas and points is just the reverse of the USA, so one thousand
in the USA is 1,000.00 and in Europe we write it down as 1.000,00
Sorry for the confusion...

What does strike me as surprising is that Davids' specs are less
than half of the ones I found. I guess the difference in performance
would be a good explanation?

Hope this helps,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000



Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 07:52:43 -0600
From: "Jerry Condray" <>
Subject: RE: Fan Zilla

I found a poor connection at the heat sensor in the waterpipe at the lower
left of the engine near the frame.  Moved the wiring and everything worked


-----Original Message-----
From: Willie Mack []
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 11:54 AM
Subject: [DML] Fan Zilla

Hey Folks
I just picked up a Fan Zilla from PJ Grady.  I installed it, and nothing
happened.  I turned the engine on and the tempeture rose to 220 before i
turned it off and put the old relay in.  The radiator fans are not turning
on.  Any ideas on what to look for?  I know the directions called for
original wiring. 


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 16:37:05 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: The 4 X 4 Delorean in Texas for sale

As nice as that would sound, it's not true. I called looking to 
purchase this D a couple of years ago (I got turned down by JJ&
Best as have many other people seeking finacing for DeLoreans 
from that place), and found out a little history. There used to be a 
guy who's whole bussiness was converting luxury cars to 4X4's. 
He's done Corvettes, Mercedes', and even a Rolls Royce. The 
car was purchased new, and was converted shortly after. Who 
knows what happened to the chassis & drivetrain. But it was in 
new condition when removed. The conversion shop went out of 
bussiness along time ago according to the saleman on the 
phone. I used to have the VIN#, but I have no idea where it's at.

The conversion was a relativly simple one. The underbody is 
bolted onto a Blazer chassis. In this case, it is the chassis that 
was modified. The steering column on the DeLorean was 
welded up to the rack on the chassis. The rivets were removed, 
and the panel in the trunk was removed to make room for the 
engine. I'm guessing the brake MC was simply bolted onto the 
underbody, and conected to the pedal. The engine I beleive is a 
350, w/a 4bbl carb. It's and automatic, with true 4 wheel drive. 
According to the man I spoke with, taking to the gas station was 
a major pain. You have to lift the louvers to gain access to the 
fuel filler neck. Which means you have to stand on the rear 
bumper to fill it. Which also means you have to climb up there 
with the nozzle in hand. But I can't imagine it would be any harder 
than filling up a boat on a trailer.

According to the salesman at the time, it could very easily be 
converted back to a regular DeLorean with minimal work. But the 
cost of a rolling chassis is too prohibative for this.

Maybe one day it'll be in my driveway. 'Cause I couldn't get out if it 
was parked in the garage!

vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Horseman,
> Don't feel to upset,Chances are it most likely had a rotted/bad 
> frame,so rather than put it to pasture,it was converted into that 
> monster Thing.One good thing he(or she) most likely saved it 
> meeting a worse fate.(becoming a parts car)
> Claude
> 000570


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 13:29:02 -0500
From: "Michael Babb" <>
Subject: RE: Old magazine

The D also made it onto the front cover of the July 1977 Car and Driver.
With a sub caption of "First Look at America's Stunning New Sports Car.
Can't really remember all that much about the article though . . . If you
want to see what the cover looks like, check out

There was also a July 1977 Road & Track that featured the D as well.

Cheers, and happy holidays all!



Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 13:47:14 +0100
From: "Cameron Putsch" <>
Subject: Weird brakes

I had this happen a couple of times to me the other day. My brake pedal would go low on random when coming up to a stop. It only happened a few times and not in a row. It happened from around 55 mph when holding the brakes to a stop. Even though the pedal went low I still had adaquate stopping power. I checked around and I do not have a coolant leak nor do I have a vacume leak. could this be from inconsistancies in the vacume assist or what?

Sincerely, Casey at

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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