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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 842
Date: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 10:20 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Old magazine
From: "delorean502" <>

2. Original Tires II
From: Les Huckins <>

3. Re: Original tires!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>

4. Re: how fast was vin#502?

5. Windshield defroster question...
From: "Dan RC30" <>

6. RE: Re: Original tires!

7. Re: Windshield defroster question...
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>

8. Re: Windshield defroster question...
From: "tmpintnl" <>

9. Re: Crazy wiring. (was Fan Zilla)
From: "tmpintnl" <>

10. Misc PRV Question.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 17:20:36 -0000
From: "delorean502" <>
Subject: Re: Old magazine

I stumbled upon an old Delorean picture that came from one of the 
office rooms at the Delorean plant.  Its got a stainless steel 
looking frame and was framed in england somewhere.  The picture is 
the same picture that is on the cover of a BRICKLINE magazine that 
featured the Delorean.  Its the first prototype with the yellow 
exhaust.  The picture is very stunning. In Cleveland I had John 
Delorean sign it.  he mentioned he really liked that picture.

Merry Christmas


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Michael Babb" <michael_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> The D also made it onto the front cover of the July 1977 Car and 
> With a sub caption of "First Look at America's Stunning New Sports 
> Can't really remember all that much about the article though . . . 
If you
> want to see what the cover looks like, check out
> There was also a July 1977 Road & Track that featured the D as well.
> Cheers, and happy holidays all!
> michael_at_dml_b...


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 10:04:00 +0000
From: Les Huckins <>
Subject: Original Tires II

Ken is right, mostly.  There is no free lunch, it's a trade-off.  I have
Yokos on my other car and they are a little quieter and a little softer
(not much) but the wear factor is much greater.  At less than 9000 miles
they are worn to the point of watching them and thinking about
replacements.  About the originals, 'tis true that the material changes
as it ages, tends to get harder, the interesting thing about that is
that it may not be of even hardness all the way through, the outermost
part being that most affected by exposure to the atmosphere.  For the
first 100 miles or so the tires were downright "lumpy", after another
200 miles or so they quieted down and now seem  very acceptable.  The
wear factor, as mentioned is negligible.

Anyone have similar thoughts or expertise?


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 18:16:23 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>
Subject: Re: Original tires!

I also have NCT's on my car with just over 6K miles. They do ride hard 
but I have nothing to compare to as I never drove on them when new. 
Tires are not meant to be used that are this old. With that being said 
if you have a very aggressive inspection program ie: you remove the 
tires and inspect the tread and sidewalls, keep a close eye on 
inflation pressures and watch the wear pattern they can be used. I 
wouldn't jump in the car and drive to California on them but I have 
driven them as long as 4 hours at a time. You must watch for any 
change in driving charactoristics and feel for delaminations in the 
sidewalls. Tire technology has improved since these tires were made so 
with the right choice you can improve safety and handling over what 
was "state of the art" in 1981. The only reason I still keep the NCT's 
on is for origionality. If I had an extra set of rims I probably would 
change them. Using a premium tire cleaner with UV protection is useful 
to keep them looking new and prevent "dry rot". In the offseason raise 
the car and keep away from ozone producing sources like electric 
motors with brushes and sunlight. If you want a relieable tire you can 
trust put the NCT's away and get a modern tire.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 13:54:09 EST
Subject: Re: how fast was vin#502?

In a message dated 12/24/01 11:35:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<< What I find most intreging about the LEGEND set up in fuel management.  
Turbo and supercharged D suffer from inadequate fuel management at higher 
rpm.  THis is compensated for
 in many cases by over suppling fuel by shorting the computer to fuel rich.  
(Sometimes even this is inadequate).  Based on my experience with Delorean 
engines,  legend has to
 make changes to the bosch injectors to make their setup work properly.
 Has anybody out there put larger injectors in this car?  I know I can easily 
do this on other cars that are hot rodded.
IMHO, once you're resigned to improving the PRV, it seems foolish to me to 
consider keeping the K Jetronic CIS. The ease with which this engine accepts 
EFI makes me wonder why anyone going this direction would even consider 
keeping the CIS. Cost is always a consideration, but in reality, you can 
probably have EFI for less than it would cost you to replace your CIS. And 
anyway, if you've been entertaining yourself with a DeLorean, you should 
already be used to spending money. :-)
With EFI, you can pick and choose the size injector you want to run and 
simply adjust your baseline (for the PRV) fuel flow program values across the 
board to compensate for the change in flow that smaller or larger injectors 
provide. I was running Bosch 170cc EFI injectors which flowed 16 lbs of fuel 
per hour. I just replaced them with 24lb injectors, and simply ran my fuel 
flow values down by a fixed percentage across the board, started it up and 
drove away.  

I've pretty much perfected the fabrication of fuel rails for the DeLorean. 
I've built 4 sets so far. Having my own metal working lathe helps a lot. If 
anyone would like to try EFI, I'd be glad to help them out.

Jim Vin 6147


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 16:03:59 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <>
Subject: Windshield defroster question...

It's been some time since I have asked the list for help... My car has had no problems, so I haven't needed anything! Until now... I noticed that even on setting #4, my windshield defroster barely works. All the other vents work and yes the motor is turning. Any clue as to what the problem may be? I did replace the mode switch only a few years back so I'm sure that's not it. Any ideas?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 16:25:02 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Original tires!

I to had oem tires on car.  The car had a tendency to slip around corners and road like a buckboard.  Changed tires to Toyo proxies, 100% diffrence and feel.  


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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 04:27:12 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>
Subject: Re: Windshield defroster question...

Just refer to Workshop Manual N:09:05. It is the troubleshooting fault 
tree for defrost problems (screen vents). It most likely is a vacuum 
problem or mechanical problem with the flap that sends the air either 
to the footwell outlets or the windshield. Also read N:01:02-09 for an 
explanation of the operation of the system. There is also a good 
picture in the parts manual 7-3-0. Now that the weather around this 
part of the country got cold I guess you want it to work well! I don't 
know if my defrost works as I have put my car in "hover mode" for the 
winter. BTW make sure the fan is turning in the correct direction as 
if it is backwards it will still move some air but not nearly as much 
as it should.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_h...> wrote:
  I noticed that even on setting #4, my windshield defroster barely works. 
All the other vents work and yes the motor is turning. Any clue as to 
what the problem may be?
> ---Dan


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 04:45:38 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <>
Subject: Re: Windshield defroster question...

Dan - This is a total "shot in the dark", but I would look at the 
vacuum actuators that move the various flaps around to distribute the 
air to different functional areas.  You may have a leaky vacuum hose, 
or the actuator may have quit that directs air to the defrosters.  In 
my personal experience, I had my air conditioning seemingly quit on 
me during a rally with temperatures over 100 degrees F.  Yikes!  It 
turned out that there is a little plastic bellcrank that connects the 
vacuum actuator to the air flap, and the bellcrank had broken.  I 
made a replacement from a small piece of aluminum plate, and have had 
no problems in that area since.  Sometimes, it's the subtle things.

Merry Christmas, and may God bless you all.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 04:57:04 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <>
Subject: Re: Crazy wiring. (was Fan Zilla)

I made a change to my fan wiring as well.  I removed the "fan fail 
module", rewired the relay socket for that location as well as the 
basic fan relay location, and then installed two new 40 amp relays in 
the revised sockets.  I now have a separate relay for each fan, so if 
one goes bad, I still have the other.  As you know, I'm into fail 
safety type installations.  The other change was to install heavier 
duty circuit breakers for each fan.  The fan motors draw a huge 
current on startup, and then the draw tapers off for normal 
operation.  That initial current with both fans feeding through a 
single relay can easily overwhelm the single 35 amp relay originally 
installed.  I have wiring in place for a separate switch to manually 
activate the fans, but I haven't installed the switch yet.  "So many 
mods, so little time".

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> My car has had an alteration to the fan wiring. THe relay was 
removed and has been rewired so that it has a switch 


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 05:16:30 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Misc PRV Question.

As some may know, I'm researching possible options for 
improving my engine. And I've found a few avenues possibility 
wise. But I have have gotten a few questions along the way that 
need answers. So, here goes.

1. Is there a mechanical distributor that can be used on the 3.0 
litre PRV for even firing?

2. Is there anything unique about the Ignition ECU on the 
DeLorean that makes it unusable for modifications? i.e. same 
fire order, higher output, CIS vs. Carburetion.

3. Are the 3.0 litre pistons, sleeves, and heads compatable with 
the B28F block? Are modifications nessisary?

4. Aspirated vs. Turbo charged: Which is better?

I've been looking at the A310 setup. While the modifications look 
very atractive output and ease of installation wise, I don't know 
that there is room in the DeLorean engine bay to fit the 
aftermarket competition kit. The sport version does look 
promising though... So there is turbo charging. I'd love to use the 
3.0 litre engine, but I don't know that there are any aftermarket 
parts available to convert it. So far, it looks like a turbo engine 
would entail larger cams, and a lower compression ratio, and a 
port & polishing job at the very least. But even after this is 
complete, I then need to worry about an intake manifold. With 
EFI, keeping the extra plumbing from the CIS is not nessisary. 
Unless of course someone knows of a single carb manifold for 
the PRV...

Just some of the ideas that I've been toying with lately. No 
conversion in my immediate future. But something that I am 
thinking about none the less...

As usual, thanks in advance!

vin 6585 "X"


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