From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 845
Date: Saturday, December 29, 2001 10:38 AM

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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Fuel Distributor Conversion
From: "dsscid" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

3. Revsese WAS: Why the DeLorean?
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

4. The best thing I got for Christmas
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

5. Door Lock Module - some technical musings...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: Hot Fuse
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 16:42:25 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit

To work on the fuel system you really need some reference materiel. On 
of the best sources for information on the Bosch K-Jetronic fuel 
injection system as it is used in the Delorean is the Delorean 
Workshop Manual section "D". The procedure for adjusting the air fuel 
ratio is in D:04:01-:15. You need some EXPENSIVE special tools to do 
this right. It is best if you can find a shop that will either let you 
use their equipment or will do this as per the book. My guess is that 
the adjustment is way off causing the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> 
>     Hello DML,
> 
>     I'm helping out a new owner tune up his car and replace the fuel 
> injection system. We have reset the car back to factory settings. 
However we 
> have encountered a small adjustment issue.
> 
>  Installed new fuel distributor and control pressure regulator, 
etc., etc., 
> on new owners car. What is proper way to adjust air/fuel ratio?
> 





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 17:55:10 -0000
From: "dsscid" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Fuel Distributor Conversion

Hello,

About a week ago i was able to change my faulty dmc fuel distributor 
over to an porshe 911 setup.  After the initial setup and adjusting 
the DeLorean runs like brand new.  The unit i installed on it was out 
of a Porshe 911 racing car,  that had a 3.0 engine (insteald of the 
2.9) and has no cold start port on it.  The cold start port wasn't 
really a problem since you could double banjo it on the warm up 
regulator.  All in all i found found a nice little setup that requires 
no modification at all to install, and is easier to find then the 
stock unit.  I also have some other porshe distributor that have no 
frequency valve port on them.  If anyone in the jersey/ny/pennsylvania 
area are instrested in switiching over to a more mechanical system let 
me know.  I will be uploading picture of it later on in the day.  If 
yo uhave any questions let me know.

- Shain
#10140




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:32:02 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Revsese WAS: Why the DeLorean?

Not to be picky Les, but it should not be stiff shifting into 
reverse.  When cold, my car will go into reverse with the greatest of 
ease.  When warm, it will grind unless I put it into first gear 
first, to stop the input shaft from spinning.  But even when I do 
that it still goes into reverse without resistance.  I suspect I just 
need a tranny fluid change (I know its not clutch or linkage 
related).  For you les, I would suggest bleeding your clutch line, 
adjusting the linkage, or changing your transmission fluid. (all the 
standard stuff) Take care now!!

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>the shifting (at
> least in the case of reverse) is stiff




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:20:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: The best thing I got for Christmas

Although I did get 2 SunStar models, a sexy stainless throttle shield, and
super sexy PJ Grady complete door sill outlines, the best thing I got for
Christmas was a new dome light.

For as long as I've had my DeLorean, the front dome light has been yellow,
cracked, and hanging slightly out of the headliner (some double stick tape
wasn't really doing the job). Houston's new glass lights are incredible.
They've done away with the plastic clips and now have 2 metal studs. At
first I didn't think that it would stay in - I thought a part was missing.
I wired it in and pushed it up into the headliner. *Snap* Done.

After putting it in, the only word that came to mind was "quality". No one
is going to remark, "Wow, that sure is a slick dome light", but I couldn't
be happier with the pure QUALITY of it all.

Houston, you've fixed a problem.

-Christian
#3452




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 22:35:47 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Door Lock Module - some technical musings...

Hi All,

I've spent some of my quiet time this Christmas looking at the DeLorean
door lock module. Having spent time previously examining Dave Swingle's
pain-stakingly documented layout diagram and circuit diagram on the
DMCnews tech page, I've discovered some things and re-engineered two
modules already for reliability and longevity (for at least the next 20
years :-)

This was prompted by Paul Salsbury complaining that his didn't work at
all, and sending it to me to fix.

Firstly, referring to the circuit diagram here

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/graphics/lockcircR1.jpg

some errors:

1) Transistors Q1 and Q11 are in fact BFR39 and NOT BRF39 as stated.
BFR39's are pretty common and still available. I got ten on sample from
www.diamondelec.co.uk

2) R1 and R11 are in fact in series between D2 and the emitter of Q1
(and likewise between D12 and the emitter of Q11). C1 and C11 connect
directly between ground and Q1 and Q11's emitters respectively.

What do we know about the module and it's problems?

1) The relays can stick shut energising the solenoid until it burns out
or the curcuit breaker trips (if present) or the battery flattenns.

2) Referring to Nathan's notes on the module, the transistors are
vulnerable to spikey voltages resulting from intermittent earthing
during the lock or unlock cycle. He also notes that he'd put a diode in
series between point A and output pin 2.

1: The original relays are open to the air and have a pathetically small
contactor. This is a recipie for sparking casing gumming up of the
contacts. Regular cleaning with a switch lubricant like servisol10 is
likely to prevent the contacts sticking, though it's an underrated
device. (A small fact which may be of interested to some is that the
explosion aboard Apollo13 was traced back to the use of an underrated
relay getting stuck closed - you have to read the book to get the
detail!). I found a nice 10A miniature relay made by Siemens available
from Maplin for 1.49. It's almost the exact same size as the stock
relays.

2: When I tested Paul's module, I discovered that one "side" of the
circuit was functioning correctly, but the other was failing to charge
its capacitor (the one that energises the relay). The likely culprit was
the transistor Q1 so I replaced it (I also replaced the two capacitors
on principle. On re-trying the module, I found no change. This was a
puzzle because there's not a helluva lot else on the board that can go
wrong! Remember this board is actually two identical circuits in
parallel - one performs the "lock" function, the other the "un-lock"
function. Paul's would unlock but not lock. It was after a lot of
head-scratching that I noticed something strange... D5 has no "partner"
on the "lock" side of the circuit. Even stranger, my own working module
had D5 mounted by hand to the underside of the board, with the track
cut. Pauls was evidently a later board with a position for D5. NEITHER
board had a place for the same diode on the lock circuit. The lock relay
on Paul's board was sparking badly when  manually closed it, so I
concluded that Q1 was being blown due to a spike on the base. I cut the
track from pin 2 to point A and added in a diode (marked "D" on the
diagram). I also added the protection diodes from point A and B to the
12v supply. Hey presto the module works fine, with a lovely blue flash
ever time the lock relay is triggered. So I removed the stock relays and
replaced them with the Siemens ones. It required some creative
additional wiring, but you can use the holes for the original relays to
feed to the underside of the board. It's very easy to solder direct to
the tracks on the underside as it was never coated.








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:49:05 EST
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Fuse

To the best of my knowlage this is common on DeLoreans, in fact it also 
happened on mine,  the solution that I found was to install an inline fuse 
holder, in place of the melted slot.  My problem also occured on the dip beam 
circut.


Best wishes for a happy new year
Andrew
4194


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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