From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1001
Date: Friday, April 26, 2002 8:22 AM

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Front coil springs

2. Re: Re: Tuned it up last year.
From: Robert Brandys <>

3. Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Cross Refrence
From: "shainbrannan" <>

4. Re: Propane/Freon

5. Re: Re: Front coil springs
From: Steve Stankiewicz <>

6. Re: Clackety clackety clackety?
From: "Patrick Cowan" <>

7. Re: Re: Front coil springs
From: "DMC Joe" <>

8. Re: Intermittent wackiness
From: "DMC Joe" <>

9. transaxle info
From: "sml5150" <>

10. Re: Turns over, doesn't start.
From: "Walter Coe" <>

11. Spring Social this weekend...
From: "Dan RC30" <>

12. A/C conversion

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:54:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Front coil springs

I took the front springs off my self, it is a pain if you do not have the 
right spring compressor. I know because the spring left go as i was carrying 
it and my fingers got stuck on the side which still had the compression rod 
on it. I finally released the tension and was amazed how compressed a finger 
can get.
You would have thought that I had learned something, I took the rear axles 
and wheel assembly off my D. The shock was just hanging in the air, I 
unscrewed the lock nuts a the top thinking it was a standard strut and the 
shock shot off like a rocket, am very glad my foot was not there, I sat there 
asking myself how dumb am I. So I plan to buy the best spring compressor on 
the market before I and take all the safety precautions before I work with 
springs again.


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:44:52 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <>
Subject: Re: Re: Tuned it up last year.

I had a similar problem with my stock D.  It ran fine and then when I 
started it up the next year, it was missing on one cylinder.

Turns out that one of the fuel injector corroded over the winter (IN A 
HEATED GARAGE!) and stopped working.  I replace the injector and the car 
ran fine.

Why did this happen?  Water in the gas, possibly?  Engine was totally 
heated up before shutdown, so no cylinder condensation.  

Just an idea to check out.  Missing cylinders can screw up vacuum 
readings to the computer and make it do weird things.

I had a cross fire injected engine with a weak vacuum signal -that took 
me two years to figure out.  



Message: 3
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:21:56 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <>
Subject: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Cross Refrence

I was wondering if someone could give the cross refrence numbers to 
the clutch slave and master cylinder.  The bendix number thats out 
on the web for the slave cylinder is outdated, and no longer 
exists.  I also tried the master cylinder for a amc spirit, but they 
no londer exist.  Any info would apreciated.

- Shain


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:32:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Propane/Freon

The DEP out here in Mass. just put a guy in jail for a number of years 
because he was illegally selling R12 to auto shops on the black-market. It 
turned out it was not even R12 but some type of flammable mixture.


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:29:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <>
Subject: Re: Re: Front coil springs

First let me say that if you're not experienced in
removing coil springs and have the proper tools, I'd
recommend finding someone who is.  That said, if you
must remove the springs yourself, here's a safety tip:
 Get a short length of chain, the heaviest that will
fit through the coils, and padlock.  Run the chain
through a coil and around the vehicle's frame and use
the padlock to lock the chain to itself, making a loop
around the frame.  While this doesn't completely
prevent the spring from moving, it "should" keep it
from flying out.

I've done a fair number of spring swaps.  Even some on
cars with suspensions where the springs virtually drop

Good Luck!
--- dmcman82 <> wrote:
> I've removed the front shocks TWICE and also
> installed new shorter 
> shocks. I do have to say this....although it was not
> very hard to 
> do....My heart had never raced so fast in my life.
> The spring was a 
> little clusy and at times it looked like it wanted
> to shoot out! 


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:09:23 -0400
From: "Patrick Cowan" <>
Subject: Re: Clackety clackety clackety?

its most likely not internal then. i was thinking it was related into the
top end of the motor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew" <>
To: <>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Clackety clackety clackety?

> On Sun, 21 Apr 2002, Patrick Cowan wrote:
> > did the noise change pitch with idle advancement?
> The noise definitely changed pitch, but did not sound directly
> proportional to engine speed.


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:45:21 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Front coil springs


I, as well as many other DML readers very much appreciate your candid words
concerning your coil spring "survivor" story. It is just another
illustration that DeLorean owners should always adhere to a "safety-first"
mentality.  I realize that most of the guy (gentleman) owners of a DeLorean
feel that "sending the D out for repair" is unmanly.

Whenever that situation comes up; like removing suspension springs or
installing an AC compressor keep in mind that the professionals hire other
professionals to handle work they are not equipped to handle.

Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
DeLorean Website Directory

----- Original Message -----
From: "dmcman82" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:27 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Front coil springs

> I've removed the front shocks TWICE and also installed new shorter
> shocks. I do have to say this....although it was not very hard to
> do....My heart had never raced so fast in my life. The spring was a
> little clusy and at times it looked like it wanted to shoot out


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:44:01 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Intermittent wackiness


From your description it appears that you have the two vacuum lines at the
vacuum solenoid canceled backwards. Try reversing the two lines and see if
you problem goes away. Also keep in mind that the vacuum solenoid and idle
speed motor are both activated by the idle speed micro switch. If this
switch is malfunctioning you will have both a high idle and advanced timing

You also said:
        "I hear a hissing coming from the plug that covers the CO adjustment
screw ...."

The access hole should be plugged, any screw or bolt that blocks the flow of
air through this hole will work. A golf tee will also do the job.

You also said:
        "I removed the mixture control unit. Does this mean it's gasket
needs to be replaced as well ......."

Only if the upper and lower half of the mixture control unit was separated.

You also said:
            "My idle is higher than it should be 1200-1500 RPM and my engine
is running too rich. ..........."

You will need to correct your high idle problem prior to performing any
other fuel system service procedures.

Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
DeLorean Website Directory

----- Original Message -----
From: "cdrugly" <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 9:25 AM
Subject: [DML] Intermittent wackiness

> Well, I got the new vacuum solenoid in and my problems have
> decreased. The cars runs much better, but I still get a bit of
> sluggishness in the upper parts of 1st and 2nd gear.
> While I was letting it warm up yesterday, the engine would rev up to
> about 5000 RPM for no reason even though the throttle was not
> pressed... it just went crazy. The only way to stop it was to cut the
> engine. When I decided to take it on the road, I didn't have this
> problem anymore. I drove it for a good while and never got it to
> happed at a stop or anywhere on the road.


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:27:42 -0000
From: "sml5150" <>
Subject: transaxle info

does anyone know out trans' ratios? ive run across a page that gives 
names/ ratios/ and such for renault transaxles. Maby if someone can 
match the gears, we can find out the official name/model of out 
trans. and then maby we can find performance parts.

just a thought

heres the link:

BTW, i think im going with the g50 or g50/20 6sp.

skipper landry


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:39:18 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: Turns over, doesn't start.


In addition to the other things that people said to check, also check fuse #
7.  The lugs on these fuses corrode with age and make hot/intermittent
connections.  It's a good idea to replace all of them.  You might have
already had a meltdown in the fuse block.



Message: 11
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:55:01 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <>
Subject: Spring Social this weekend...

There is a small change in the schedule for Friday night.

7pm: Meet in the Hotel Foyer for tech session with Rob Grady.

8pm: Dinner at the Italian restaurant.

This will give people a little more time to get there and get situated 
before everything starts.

Also, I picked up the trophies today. They are very nice so shine up your 
cars!!! They feature a walnut bass, polished metal victory cup (gold color), 
polished metal eagles (also gold color), and a polished gold color steering 
wheel emblem on top inside a set of wings. Good luck to all who are 
entering! See you Friday night!!!


Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:07:45 EDT
Subject: A/C conversion

Hello All,

here are the results (so far) of my A/C conversion to 134a.  yesterday i 
brought my car in to the shop who was to do my work.  we put it on a lift and 
checked for neon  dye on my A/C system.  we found a couple of tiny spots but 
nothing very troubling.  most of it was pretty sketchy and the tech i was 
working with said he didn't think it would be a problem.  we then brought the 
car down and temporarily filled the system with one pound of R-134a with dye 
for testing purposes.  we let the car sit for a little while then came back 
to it and got it up on the lift again.  we then checked for leaks again and 
we couldn't find anything new.  it was getting late so we called it a day.  
now this afternoon we were at it again and decided to try to evacuate the 
system out and vacuum it and try to fill it with 134a.  we hooked the machine 
up and let it vacuum for about 105 minutes.  the tech (who has done many 
conversions) said the trick to doing an older car is to vacuum it for a long 
time to make sure you get EVERYTHING out of the system.  as we were finishing 
vacuuming, the tech said that the car was holding vacuum extremely well, he 
said it was on the lines of an almost perfect system.  after that we filled 
the system up with R-134a and more dye to the full 2.5lb capacity.  we let 
the car idle with the A/C on for about half an hour.  we came back to the car 
and put a thermometer in the vent - we were running at about 37.4 degrees F!! 
 we finished topping it up with the engine running to help pull freon into 
the system.  

so far so good - the system seems to be working fine and my compressor is 
cyling about every 20 seconds.   in a couple of weeks i'm going to bring my 
car back for a leak test and see if anything is leaking.  and if not.... well 
i'll just keep my fingers crossed!  i will post another update in a couple 

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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