From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1017
Date: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 7:39 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Vacuum and hot water valve
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

2. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

3. Re: Battery Light always on since alarm removal
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. Does Anyone have any extra exhaust manifolds?
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

5. Tire matching
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. thr other delorean on ebay
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

8. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

9. vacuum leak?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. TOBY-TAB trailing arm bolts
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

11. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

12. Oil Pan Removal
From: "jason3625" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>

13. lug patterns and offsets question
From: "sk1pper_landry" <skipper_at_dml_sk1pper.com>

14. Re: Does Anyone have any extra exhaust manifolds?
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

15. Re: DeLorean at the movies.
From: MysticalAMX_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: a/c drain questions
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: Oil Pan Removal
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: Oil Pan Removal
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: thr other delorean on ebay
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

22. more auto trans questions!
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: DeLorean for 17year old
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Re: vacuum leak?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

25. Re: Oil Pan Removal
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 14:39:05 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum and hot water valve

Yes, Jim

You are correct.  The hot water valve is normally OPEN, and when you draw
a vacuum during "MAX AC" or "off", the water valve CLOSES.  I happened to
check it when I was replacing a hose..

Jim 1537



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 14:45:04 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

I am going to throw back into the pool the same words that I keep hearing
about the PRV:

"With proper maintenance and used correctly, the (PRV) Fram filter is
reliable."

If you could not get the filter off you should be ashamed of putting it
on so tight.  It did not tighten itself.

I have used FRAM oil filters for every car I have owned and have never
had a problem with them.

Jim
1537



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 16:39:40 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Light always on since alarm removal

Jack,

You said:
        "At the alternator end, the output from this wire should be zero - "

This is incorrect. If you check the master wiring diagram you will see that
the yellow/brown wire connects to one side of the battery warning lamp. The
other side of the lamp is connected to the #5 fuse buss which is 12 V
positive whenever the ignition is in the run mode.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 17:53:34 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Does Anyone have any extra exhaust manifolds?

Does anyone have a set of original exhaust manifolds for the PRV laying 
around that I can either borrow for a while, or if need be buy outright? My 
last dyno runs with my new intake manifold and EFI setup tell me that any 
additional HP gains need to come from the exhaust system. It'll make 
fabricating a set of custom manifolds a lot easier and I won't have to lay up 
my D while I'm at it. Details on how it's done of course will be free to the 
list if and when I'm done. I'd like to drop the stock manifolds, cross over 
pipe and the cat, and go with twin 10 inch stainless steel Supertraps on 
custom headers. Both independently exiting the manifolds directly towards the 
rear of the car and terminating in the stock rear valance exhaust tip cutouts.
Thanks,
Jim VIN 6147



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 23:17:54 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Tire matching

I have decided (I think) to go with Pirelli tires. I like the P600s a 
lot and really want to use them on the rear. So my question is what 
are the best pirellis for the front, closest matching tread 
pattern/handling/etc? I have looked at the P4000 and P6000 but they 
really don't match. I dont want my car to look goofy!

Thanks.





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 23:32:03 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: thr other delorean on ebay

what did you guys think about the delorean on ebay with 483 miles??  
the reason im asking is cuz i won that auction ....it went for 
15200....im driving to VA on friday...any words of warning/ 
caution...things to look for??   thanx




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 18:43:34 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

i would contact fram and let them know what kind of products they are making. i have
stopped using fram filters years ago after reading a oil filter study and found out the
fram is one of the worst filters out there. the best were, napa gold series or something
like this name, A/C filters, motorcraft filters, bosch filters and a couple of more i
cant remember.

you might want to remove your drain plug and dump several quarts of cheap oil in the
engine to remove all of the particles in the bottom of your oil pan, refill it and run
it with a new filter, drain it again and dump some more oil in the engine with the drain
plug out, and fill it with quality oil and with a new filter.


good luck
mark

[moderator snip]



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 18:49:52 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

oops.... here is the link for the oil filter study.....
http://www.dorianyeager.com/oilfilterstudy1.html


later
mark



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:06:39 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: vacuum leak?

Hey all,

today i was tinkering with my car and i noticed something odd.  you know that 
plate that sits on the W-pipe on the intake manifold?  there are two bolts 
that hold it down to the manifold with a paper gasket between them.  one on 
of the bolts there is a wire harness clip holding the engine wiring.  anyway, 
i noticed that i was missing a bolt in it, probably from this winter when i 
put my new waterpump in.  i have some extra hardware around so i put a bolt 
and washer in it, and started the car.  it seems to run a little smoother, or 
maybe it's just my imagination.  

would this plate being loose or missing a bolt cause a vacuum leak?  i don't 
remember what is under the plate from this winter.  perhaps this is another 
place where people should look when they have a rough idle....

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 00:20:40 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: TOBY-TAB trailing arm bolts

Hello List - A significant number of you had expressed an early 
interest, during the initial feasibility study, in obtaining a set of 
the new TOBY-TAB bolts. I wanted to send out a brief note to encourage 
you to place your orders soon for a TOBY-TAB kit, which includes the 
bolts, washers, self-locking nuts, and technical data and 
instructions.  The supplies of these kits are limited, and there is no 
guarantee of future availability.  We have had our Spring Tech Session 
in the Seattle area, and as I previously reported, **every car** that 
was inspected for damaged bolts had bent and rusted bolts to a 
significant degree.  All cars that already had TOBY-TAB's installed 
were found to be in perfect condition, with no signs of looseness or 
damage of any kind in this area. For those of you with upcoming Tech 
Sessions, place your orders now, so that you will have the kits on 
hand when the inspections are done.  I would also recommend that you 
have a limited supply of trailing arm bushings available, as we found 
two cars that had seriously damaged bushings that required immediate 
replacement.  Please visit www.Delorean-parts.com for ordering and 
additional information on the TOBY-TAB's, as well as the bushings.  
Orders will be honored on a first come - first served basis.  Enjoy 
your "stainless steeds", because spring is in the air.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1   




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 01:12:08 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

Yes, the D did over heat last time. I blew a hose on the water pump. 
But the needle never reached 240F on the gauge. It came close, but 
it didn't hit. (it was 2AM, no cars around, so I pulled right into 
the Stratosphere parking lot). When I first got my D, I blew the 
otterstat, and that time the temp almost hit 260F! But, at that time 
I had a Valvoline oil filter installed, and it looked fine. Every 
other filter on the D has always come off by hand w/o the use of a 
tool. And because of the harsh temps here in the desert, I ALWAYS run 
Castrol GTX 20w50.

I do appriciate the advice, and the comments. And I do mean all! :) I 
figure to clean everything out, I'll probably run a little chemtool 
thru with some cheap oil to clean out the motor. Benefit of the doubt 
against myself, I'll always be careful to make sure that I don't over 
tighten the filters from now on. But like I said, I never had this 
problem before...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Has your D ever overheated?  I've seen this before on another car 
> and it turned out that the car overheated and "cooked" the oil 
> inside of it. Made a big mess and the oil pretty much solidified 
> everywhere making it look like some sort of material when actually 
> it was the oil all hardened up. We took off the filter and it was 
> caked inside like from what I can see in your photos and also we 
> removed the valve covers and it was all caked on all over the valve 
> springs. Now I'm not saying your engine overheated but maybe the 
oil 
> you used was not heavy enough? I've used Fram filters on every one 
> of my cars for as long as I can remember and never saw that happen 
> before until my friends car overheated very badly.
> 
> Steve




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 01:25:22 -0000
From: "jason3625" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>
Subject: Oil Pan Removal

Hello All....  over the weekend I decided to do a routine Oil Change 
that ended up being my worst experience yet with my D.  Come to find 
out the person who changed it last stripped the Threads in the Oil 
Pan. So now there is not enough threads to secure the Drain plug 
without a lot of leaking.... I tried to buy a Rubber Expansion plug 
and that was a piece of #!%$.  Then I tried an oversized-Self tapping 
5/8-18 drain plug and it was TOO big even to tap a hole..  PJ's got a 
new pan for $158 but it is not the cost that bothers me.... It looks 
like I may have to RAISE the Engine to replace the pan!  So here are 
my questions... 

Does anyone have a simple solution that would prevent me from Oil Pan 
removal anything better than a rubber plug?

If I MUST replace the pan has anyone documented it before?  What neds 
to happan and what is the procedure?

Thanks All

Jason




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 01:26:35 -0000
From: "sk1pper_landry" <skipper_at_dml_sk1pper.com>
Subject: lug patterns and offsets question

Quick question. I know it has been posted before, but I cant find it. 
What is our rear offsets? and has anyone changed the lug patterns 
before? 




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:20:08 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Does Anyone have any extra exhaust manifolds?

In a message dated 05/07/2002 8:19:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jwit6_at_dml_cs.com 
writes:

<< Does anyone have a set of original exhaust manifolds for the PRV laying 
 around that I can either borrow for a while, or if need be buy outright? My 
 last dyno runs with my new intake manifold and EFI setup tell me that any 
 additional HP gains need to come from the exhaust system. It'll make 
 fabricating a set of custom manifolds a lot easier and I won't have to lay 
up 
 my D while I'm at it. Details on how it's done of course will be free to the 
 list if and when I'm done. I'd like to drop the stock manifolds, cross over 
 pipe and the cat, and go with twin 10 inch stainless steel Supertraps on 
 custom headers. Both independently exiting the manifolds directly towards 
the 
 rear of the car and terminating in the stock rear valance exhaust tip 
cutouts.
 Thanks,
 Jim VIN 6147 >>


I've got this set up posted in the photo section of Dmc News.

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:30:41 EDT
From: MysticalAMX_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean at the movies.

i say that if you were someplace and something happened with your delorean 
share all! an entire sentence said something other than the word delorean 
.....ohhhh Mike you need to chill out, its a email group for friends who are 
interested in one thing the god of all cars delorean, so what if we include 1 
or 2 things that happened at thw same time! Ohh and spiderman did rock by the 
way



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 21:58:53 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: a/c drain questions

> Pull back the rug on the passenger side, the location should be obvious.

Okay, that's what I wanted to know before I spent a half hour scratching my
hands up feeling for the right place.  On the car with the missing hose, the
hose just isn't where I'm used to seeing it on other cars.  I suppose maybe
it is tucked up there somewhere, so I'll have a look around.

On the car that drains when I jack up the rear (different car than that
mentioned above) water spills out, so I'll do like Mike suggested and try to
clean it out through the fan mounting area.

Is it practical to try to remove the bottom casing of the a/c under the dash
to clean the chamber out?  I'm having problems with water collecting on the
outside.  This isn't from a clogged up line backing up (although some of it
could be).  It is just so hot and humid in Florida that anything half way
cold quickly gets wet from condensation.  Last week I had a friend with
shorts & sandals riding in my D, and it was funny watching his reaction when
cold water dripped on his feet.  :-)  If he jumped a little higher, I would
have a sun roof.  If I can get the bottom case off, then it would be easier
to find a way to glue better insulation to it to stop the drips.  It has a
thin sheet of black foam glued over most of it, but this doesn't insulate
the exposed corners.

Walt




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:10:34 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

> If you could not get the filter off you should be ashamed of putting it
> on so tight.  It did not tighten itself.

Now, now, Jim.  Be polite.  :-)  All filters I have ever come across say to
tighten somewhere between 3/4 to 1 full turn after the gasket touches the
engine block.  Tightened like this, I am almost never able to get them off
without using an oil filter wrench.  It is easy to get them tight enough by
hand on the DeLorean because there is plenty of room to reach around the
filter.  But to get the filter off without the proper tool, some people stab
through them with a screwdriver (driven by a hammer) and use that to get
leverage to get it unscrewed.

Walt






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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 03:10:29 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

Without getting into the merits of one brand of filter over the other 
(that issue was settled by James Espey when he cut open some filters) 
one of the best things we as owners can do is show our support for the 
VERY FEW venders that have dedicated their entire business to 
providing parts and services for our cars. An oil filter may be a 
small thing but it can help you start a relationship with your 
favorite vender. If you buy your parts from a vender then at least you 
can feel that you aren't taking advantage of them when you call on the 
phone and use up their time helping you with a problem. There is no 
excuse for not getting an oil filter from them as it is not usually 
something you need in a hurry and besides they will give you a new 
copper gasket for the drain plug, find that in your local parts store!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> Yes, the D did over heat last time. I blew a hose on the water pump. 
> But the needle never reached 240F on the gauge. It came close, but 
> it didn't hit. (it was 2AM, no cars around, so I pulled right into 
> the Stratosphere parking lot). When I first got my D, I blew the 





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:22:48 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal

For what it's worth, consider taking your oil pan to a weldor to have it
repaired.  Only instead of fixing the drain hole, have it welded closed and
then drill & tap a new hole in the bottom.  It may require some welding to
make enough room for the new threads, but it would be nice to have the plug
in a sensible location.

Walt




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 03:15:41 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal

It will require lifting the engine. I suggest you find a way to drill 
it out to a larger size and retap. If that isn't an option possibly it 
can be welded in place or if you do remove the pan it be repaired by 
welding, drilling and retapping to the origional size. Maybe you could 
even use a thread insert. If you remove the pan you will need a gasket 
but you should be able to repair the pan and not have to buy a new 
one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jason3625" <jason_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hello All....  over the weekend I decided to do a routine Oil Change 
> that ended up being my worst experience yet with my D.  Come to find 
> out the person who changed it last stripped the Threads in the Oil 
> Pan.

[moderator snip]

> Does anyone have a simple solution that would prevent me from Oil 
> Pan removal anything better than a rubber plug?
> 
> If I MUST replace the pan has anyone documented it before?  What 
> neds to happan and what is the procedure?
> 
> Thanks All
> 
> Jason



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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:46:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: Re: thr other delorean on ebay

On Tue, 7 May 2002, spaceace3113 wrote:

> what did you guys think about the delorean on ebay with 483 miles??
> the reason im asking is cuz i won that auction ....it went for
> 15200....im driving to VA on friday...any words of warning/
> caution...things to look for??   thanx

(as always, someone feel free to jump in and correct me, with a stick if
necessary)

First and foremost: don't drive it. Don't /start/ it. Get it on a trailer
and get it to:

a) your place, so so you can drain and rebuild the fuel system, the oil
system and replace all the hoses and belts (at the very least). Or...

b) to a delorean vendor so /they/ can do so.

At minimum.

The car's been in storage for 20 years, and IMO (based on a few hoses on
my car, but mostly previous posts to the list) the fuel system and
virtually all of the rubber on the car are to be considered untrustworthy
until proven otherwise beyond a shadow of a doubt (read:  visual
inspection). No telling how long the fuel/oil has been sitting in the
system doing $DEITY knows what to the components. Starting the car after
all this time could do potentially horrid things. If the owner's been
starting it / driving it around the block on a regular basis, that changes
things a little, but I still wouldn't trust it until I (or a vendor) had
replaced everything that could have been affected by 20 years of improper
storage (assume improper storage. always. always. always.)

Car's on the original tires, which (again, IMO) shouldn't be trusted. I
know for a fact that there are folks on the list who drive on the original
NCTs; more power to them. Not for me, thanks. 20 years is a lot of time on
the tires, and if the car's been sitting on the tires (and not on
jackstands), they're likely going to have flat spots anyway. If you plan
on showing the car, you can save the tires and bring them to the show; I
believe doing so is worth a couple of points in the Concourse competition
(not sure about the other classes). If not, you may be able to find a
buyer for them on the list.

Your plan of attack is going to depend on what you intend to do with the
car. If you're planning on showing it, you'll likely want to keep it as
original as possible. If you're planning on driving it on a regular basis,
get the list of updates and do them / get them done.

Beyond that, go digging in the list archives.  There's an astounding
amount of information in there, including all kinds of information for
(and from) owners in precisely the same situation you're in. I didn't
realize just how full (or how detailed) our archives were until I went
looking for a similar archive for another car I just bought. My respect
for the list archives and contributers, already quite high, jumped several
thousand points.

Noah
#2867




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 04:12:21 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: more auto trans questions!

What is the small cylindrical plug type unit that hooks to the top of
the harness that hangs in the engine compartment? It is a small black 
cylinder with 5 male connectors. The harness that it plugs into has 6 
connectors... Is this just to hook up the various circuits for the 
computer, or is this thing some sort of resistor or something??

How are the different connectors that plug into the transmisson 
removed? Do you simply pull them out?

Also, I am wondering what would happen to the automatic transmission 
if the governor completely failed. Lets say the two circuit boards 
inside are completely removed. Could the transmission shift at all? 
Would the transmission flip out and be damaged severely? I'm not 
planning on doing this, I'm just wondering.

thanks, adam



 




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 00:05:04 -0400
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean for 17year old

As a huge Delorean enthusiast I must say that while it is very possible for a 17 year old to own a D, it is very important to remember this car is costly!  Myself being 22, I still cannot afford one and I won't for at least another 8 - 12 months.  Besides the cost factor, the car also needs so much attention, and I am unsure if a normal 17 year old can do that all time as every other delorean owner does.  Also.....does every 17 year old drive well enough to drive a delorean?  I drive great, but only from tons of experience, but I wouldn't trust another 17 year old to drive my car.

Just my 2 cents.

-Aaron Crocco
NY Plate:  OUTATYM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 23:49:41 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: vacuum leak?

> you know that
> plate that sits on the W-pipe on the intake manifold?

> would this plate being loose or missing a bolt cause a vacuum leak?

Probably.  The two bolt holes dead-end into the casting, so they are not
vacuum leaks in themselves.  But with either bolt missing, this will most
likely cause a slight vacuum leak on the side of the plate that is not being
held down.

My theory on this plate's purpose is to cover the access needed to drill
pressure equalizing holes between the chambers.  Or is this plate replaced
with some kind of sensor in non-DeLorean applications?

> perhaps this is another
> place where people should look when they have a rough idle....

A more likely place for a vacuum leak is the thin paper gaskets where the
outer pipe ends connect to the intake manifold.  I had one leaking a few
weeks ago after replacing the thermostat.  The paper worked like a reed in a
musical instrument and was very LOUD, like on the order of a squealing loose
belt.  The new gaskets from a vendor were not thick enough, so we made
thicker ones.

Walt




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 05:21:12 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal

Thread repair! :) use a thread repair insert. I don't remember the 
thread size of the oil plug but here's what you do. You will have to 
drill out the hole slightly larger the tap it with the proper tap to 
screw in the thread insert. I know they make them to repair oil 
plugs. I got some really good thread insert repair for my exhaust 
manifold from Rob...maybe he can get them for the oil plug hole?

Steve 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jason3625" <jason_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hello All....  over the weekend I decided to do a routine Oil 
> Change that ended up being my worst experience yet with my D.

[moderator snip]



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