From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1018
Date: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 9:08 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. OEM Oil Filter
From: "haugrd" <rdh_at_dml_hozt.com>

2. Re: Tire matching (LONG)
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

3. Bad Water Pump Symptom?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

4. Re: door problem
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Re: Tire matching
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Delorean for 17 years old!
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. RE: Oil Pan Removal
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Re: vacuum leak?
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

9. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

10. RE: a/c drain questions
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

11. Re: more auto trans questions!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Oil Pan Removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. Black Headlights from Philips DOT approved
From: "buickhawk" <buickhawk_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. RE: DeLorean at the movies.
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

15. Oil Pan Removal 2
From: "jason3625" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>

16. Trunk Space
From: "milo4845" <wayne_at_dml_knothole.net>

17. RE: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

18. Re: Oil Pan Removal
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. What I would look for If I bought another "D"
From: Steve Peck <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. rental hauling question
From: "delorean502" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>

21. Re: more auto trans questions!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Heater box question..
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

23. Re: Tire matching (LONG)
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

24. RE: Trunk Space
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

25. Re: rental hauling question
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12_at_dml_mlecmn.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 06:26:52 -0000
From: "haugrd" <rdh_at_dml_hozt.com>
Subject: OEM Oil Filter

An excellent article entitled "Comparative Analysis of Oil Filters"
by Stephen Wynne was printed in DeLorean World Volume 7 No. 1.  The 
article includes some very good photos of the insides of the DeLorean 
OEM oil filter and other after market filters, plus a description of 
the differences.  

This should be a MUST reading for ALL DeLorean owners.  Copies are 
available in the DeLorean Store at:

http://www.deloreanstore.com/

An index that includes this article and all technical articles that 
have appeared in the last 19 years of DeLorean World is available at:

http://www.delorean-owners.org/dw/tech_index.html

A wealth of technical information on our DeLoreans is available in 
the DeLorean World Special which includes ALL issues of DeLorean 
World magazine and an updated Technical Index is available in the 
DeLorean Store.

Ray Haug, Internet Director
DeLorean Owners Association




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 03:12:43 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Tire matching (LONG)

I had P600 in the front and in the rear for over a year, before I put on 
"two" sets of Yokohomas AVS on my DeLorean.  Yes, I had two sets of Yokos AVS 
on my DeLorean in the last three years.  The Yokos' threads don't last long.  
They are great riding tires ... but they last long.

It was four years ago in the month of May 1998, when I needed new tires to 
attend Ken Koncelik's first DeLorean Show held at Cincinnati, Ohio in 1998.  
I wanted to replace my Dunlops that I had for little over a year and I wasn't 
happy with the ride nor its handling abilities, besides the Dunlops I had, 
they had very little threads left and I also need tires right away as to 
attend the show.   

I wanted a set of Yokohama's AVS and they were not available, not even form 
the US Yoko Distributor that I called and they claim it was on the freight 
boat from Japan and due to arrive in mid July of that year.  The Tire Rack 
and many other tire distributors did not stock any tires of the same 
manufacture for the front and rear sizes.  Either they have the fronts or the 
rears.  There were no tires at all to be found, from any tire distributors to 
fit the DeLorean.  So, I desperately did some research and found that the 
Pirelli P600s were available for the fronts and the rears from a very large 
tire center some 10 miles from me.  The P600s had different speed rating, but 
that is okay for my usage, beside they were cosmetically all the same.  I had 
ordered them by phone and had them mounted on my DeLorean immediately when 
they arrived.  After driving the P600s a year and a half, I had replaced them 
with Yokohama's AVS that were available from PJ Grady.  There was nothing 
wrong with the P600s that was on my DeLorean, I was just curious as to the 
ride of the Yokos which everyone was "raving" about on the DML News.  I 
wanted to experience this "rave" for myself. 

The Yokohama's AVS have the same high speed rating for the front and rear ... 
the P600s are not...only the rear are high speed rated and the fronts have a 
lower speed rating.  Folks, don't worry, unless you have a different motor 
than the standard PVR, your DeLorean will NEVER exceed the lower rating of 
the P600s.  The Yokohama's AVS looks rounder-"fat," while the P600s are 
"squarer" looking and its "visual" flows well with the contour of the 
DeLorean ... IMO.   P600s and the Yokos are both good tires.  I personally 
like the looks of the Pirellis P600s and the ride is slightly different then 
the Yokohama's AVS.  The Yokos ride is softer, slightly quieter and holds the 
road "just" a bit better in the rain.  The P600s is great on dry roads and 
slight better in the snow, from two to three inches ... the Yokos are NOT 
good in snow at all... not even in 1/2" of snow.  
 
I have driven many long road trips, at times for over 18 hours per run on 
both of these brands of tires and the conclusion is that they both have 
different qualities that I can live with...  The P600 makes the DeLorean run 
and handle like a sport car, harder stiffer ... the Yokos yields a nice 
"rich-luxurious" ride (Cadillac ride).  The Yokos and PJ Grady's shocks are a 
great combination ... given the DeLorean a great ride!  BUT, on my next set 
of tires... I will fit them with P600s again.  I like them just a lit bit 
better ... for that sports car "feel" and especially for the winter 
(emergency) snow travel.  I don't like slipping in the thinnest of snow.

Again... to each their own...... I hope this helps.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 08:43:27 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Bad Water Pump Symptom?

Going over everythin on my car, it appears that I have  a leak from 
one of the hoses behind my water pump. So I do need to pull the 
manifold to replace the hoses, and vacuum lines since I'll be in 
there anyways. But I'm not sure if my water pump is ok. It was 
replaced 2 years ago. All weap seals are clean with no traces of 
coolant. However, on the bottom of the shaft, behind the pully, it 
is covered with grease. I know that this grease is not leaking 
from the weap seal because not only is the inside clean, but the 
trail of grease doesn't connect over to the weap seal.  Reading 
up on water pumps online, one site said that the weep seal is to 
allow excess grease out, rather than to push it in twards the 
water seal. So, should this be a cause for concern, or is this 
normal?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 10:24:54 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: door problem

Hi Marvin

The way the door module works is through switched-earth. If you look 
inside the door, find the sliding contact which operates with the door 
locks. There are two wires coming from it. One is Brown/Slate, the other 
is Brown/Pink. The Brown/Slate one is the Lock signal. Earth this wire 
and the doors will lock (assuming your lock module is working okay). 
Earth the Brown/Pink wire and the doors will unlock. NB earthing te 
unlock wire when the locks are unlocked (and vice-versa) will do no harm.

Why am I telling you this? Well, apparently lifting your door handle is 
having the effect of earthing the Brown/Slate wire. Check for any places 
on this wire where the insulation has worn through, perhaps against the 
door handle mechanism.

More likely though is that the lock linkages need to be loosened up 
slightly. If this is the case, you are in serious door-jam territory! :-)

No the Lockzilla will not correct this problem.

Martin
#1458

Marvin wrote:

>HOWEVER, now when I attempt to enter the car and open the passenger door, when the handle is lifted I can hear the doors lock. The key unlocks the doors. This does not happen from the drivers side. 
>
>Will the installation of Lockzilla correct this?
>
>
>Marvin Stein
>#17707
>website: printeddrinkware.com
>email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
>tel:  519-434-1666
>fax: 519-434-7071
>





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 10:35:23 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Tire matching

I have P600s on the back and P6000s on the front. Forget what the tread 
looks like - the printing on the side is the same, and with a bit of 
tyre dressing they look identical (they have this funny grooving which 
reflects the light when wet - looks really cool). The 6000s replaced the 
600s and in terms of composition are very close (W vs V rating). The 
handling improves dramatically, and I defy anyone to spin the wheels 
with the P600s on the back!

Martin
#1458

adam_one_million wrote:

>I have decided (I think) to go with Pirelli tires. I like the P600s a 
>lot and really want to use them on the rear. So my question is what 
>are the best pirellis for the front, closest matching tread 
>pattern/handling/etc? I have looked at the P4000 and P6000 but they 
>really don't match. I dont want my car to look goofy!
>
>Thanks.
>





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 09:48:21 -0000
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean for 17 years old!

Well Michael you're right,but for example i live in Italy and here 
it's difficult to find Deloreans and someone who wants to sell it!So 
what ihave to do,ihave to search it abroad and if the place is 
far,about 1000 Kms maybe i can look at the car once,and i have to 
decide to buy it after that only visit!So i have to see if it seems 
good or not and then to decide!But if you love it you have to risk 
and if you're young you have to restore it step by step,even without 
driving it!The first thing is to have it,and then you have to find 
the better way to restore and to use it!

Regards
Castori Gianmaria
P.S.I'm 20 years old,I'm attending the first year of the university 
and I'm triing to buy a D,at a low price,but i'm triing!And i'm sure 
that i'll reach my target




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 08:00:28 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Oil Pan Removal

It's a tight area to work in, but I'd suggest trying to drill and retap it (a bit larger if you need to).

I believe your correct, the engine needs to be raised to change the pan.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: jason3625 [mailto:jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 9:25 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Oil Pan Removal
> 
<SNIP>
> Does anyone have a simple solution that would prevent me from Oil Pan 
> removal anything better than a rubber plug?
> 
> If I MUST replace the pan has anyone documented it before?  What neds 
> to happan and what is the procedure?
> 
> Thanks All
> 
> Jason



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 13:05:48 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: vacuum leak?

Hold on now...  This wouldn't be the throttle shield plate now would 
it?  I would definately put the bolt (or get one) back into the hole 
to seal the W-pipe.  Because yes, that can cause a vacuum leak.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > you know that
> > plate that sits on the W-pipe on the intake manifold?
> 
> > would this plate being loose or missing a bolt cause a vacuum 
leak?
> 
<snip>
> 
> My theory on this plate's purpose is to cover the access needed to 
drill
> pressure equalizing holes between the chambers.  Or is this plate 
replaced
> with some kind of sensor in non-DeLorean applications?
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:06:59 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!



Why do you guys hesitate to buy the PURFLUX filters that are correct for the 
DeLorean PRV?

During the Spring social, the owners that were running the non-correct oil 
filters were told how the incorrect filter can damage their engine. 

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:29:30 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: a/c drain questions

I don't think so..  There are a number of small screws holding the bottom half in place in the back and I doubt you would be able to get to all of the screws without removing the entire box as one assembly (this requires a lot of work).  See the manual 7.1.0, and you will see how it goes together.  The manual does not show all of the screws, but if you want to try and do it I can take some photos of my box removed from the car which should help you locate them in your car by touch (because you will never see them!).

Let me know, I can take some pictures this weekend.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt_at_dml_att.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 9:59 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] a/c drain questions
> 
<SNIP>
> 
> Is it practical to try to remove the bottom casing of the a/c 
> under the dash to clean the chamber out?  
<SNIP>



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 15:04:06 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: more auto trans questions!

The tranny would stick in 3rd in "1" "2" and "D" and allow you to select 
reverse, but the reverse lights wouldn't work.

Martin
#1458

adam_one_million wrote:

>
>Also, I am wondering what would happen to the automatic transmission 
>if the governor completely failed. Lets say the two circuit boards 
>inside are completely removed. Could the transmission shift at all? 
>Would the transmission flip out and be damaged severely? I'm not 
>planning on doing this, I'm just wondering.
>
>thanks, adam
>





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:39:18 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal

In a message dated 5/7/02 9:15:23 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com writes:


> Does anyone have a simple solution that would prevent me from Oil Pan 
> removal anything better than a rubber plug?


Jason,

if you want a simple solution, pick up a 'last resort plug'.  it's what we 
use at Jiffy Lube when we encounter just this situation.  i know a lady with 
a 86 honda accord with over 250K miles, and the last 50K or so have been with 
a last resort plug.  all it is, is a special plug with a rubber gasket around 
the back of it and there's a screw that goes thru the center of it.  on the 
other end of the screw is one of those things that you can push thru a hole 
and then it will fold out, allowing you to tighten the screw w/plug against 
these spring loaded arms, and you can tighten the plug pretty tight because 
it's quite heavy duty.  this is probably the best short term solution. at 
least then you can drive it.  i agree with everyone else - eventually (maybe 
this winter) you need to retap it.  

i bet if you have a jiffy lube in your area, you could go over there and ask 
if they will sell a 'last resort plug' to you outright.  might cost you $4 or 
so.  if they don't know what you are talking about, describe what i told you, 
and then they will know.  if there aren't any jiffy lubes or anything like 
that where you live, i'm changing my oil next week and when i have the plug 
out i'll grab a last resort and make sure it works in my pan, then i could 
send it to you.

Good Luck!
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 14:05:49 -0000
From: "buickhawk" <buickhawk_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Black Headlights from Philips DOT approved

I am a little new to the list.  I placed some photos of black 
headlights in the photos section.  I put these on my car and they 
look great (and no modifing electrical harnesses).  I don't know if 
they run cool enough to avoid the terrible eyebrows, but I don't use 
my car at night.  I have been using them on another car for 4 years 
and they are still working.  Unfortunately, Philips hasn't made them 
for 5 years, so they are hard to find.  I found some of them in 
Wisconsin.  If you would like them for your Delorean, e-mail me at 
setwyndj_at_dml_uwec.edu and I will give you the details.




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 10:02:18 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean at the movies.

Same thing happened to me (not at the movies necessarily). I met a guy at a
cruise-in last year and he wanted to buy the car on the spot. Then, I got a
call from him again just recently wanting to buy the car again. When I said
no, he then began offering me his other cars to possibly work out a trade.

Persistent little bugger.
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 17:50:00 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean at the movies.

Yesterday I drove the Delorean to the theatre to see Spiderman, and a 
guy came over to talk to me about the car. He offered to buy it on 
the spot, for 15,000!! 

[moderator snip]



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 14:37:57 -0000
From: "jason3625" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>
Subject: Oil Pan Removal 2

Everyone had good suggestions most of which thought about already but 
all of them would require me to "Lift" the engine up.  Since it looks 
like I may have to do this can anyone give me the "In's and Out's" of 
this proceedure?  What bolts to un-do....  where to place the Jack 
how hight to lift?  Do I have to remove anything from the engine and 
if so what?   thanks everyone

Jason




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 15:29:16 -0000
From: "milo4845" <wayne_at_dml_knothole.net>
Subject: Trunk Space

My Wife and I are going to pick our 1983 Delorean in NY. She would 
like to know about Trunk Space. We will be drive it back to 
Jacksonville Fl.. Can Anyone tell me what size bags the trunk Hold. 




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 08:48:14 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!

Steve said
<I blew a hose on the water pump. But the needle never reached 240F on
the gauge.>

Once a water hose blows, the water temp indicator may not be a good
indication of the actual engine temp.

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 16:18:55 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal

Hi,

Try using a thread insert, I believe they are called Heli-Coils, 
they are often used to replace threads in engine heads for spark 
plugs and I have used a couple on an outboard marine engine with 
great success. Certainly cheaper than buying a new oil pan.

Regards

James RG

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 09:33:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Peck <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What I would look for If I bought another "D"


LOOK IN THE BRAKE RESERVOIR FOR CLARITY ALL THE WAY THROUGH. Take a flash light.  If they have not maintained it, you might not get home.  It happened to me...

Look for red dots on the ball joints, sway bar brackets and inside the engine compartment centered on the firewall.  These are some of the recalls.

Look at the fuse box for signs of melting or a crappy job replacing a melted fuse box.

Look for a quality jumper on the right most relay, or a functional Fan Fail Relay.  Beefy, soldered wires might indicate that it wasn't home-made.

Look for ALL the dash lights to light when you first switch on.  

Switch on the AC (car on but not started) and Stick your head under the car to find two fans spinning freely.  Have the owner switch off and look for the fans to stop at roughly the same time in several seconds.

Feel the front brake rotors for a groove on the outside that might indicate that the miles are not right.

Look at the trailing arm bolts for bending.

Rock the steering wheel up and down.  If it moves more than 1/2" and movement is heard or seen at the firewall, Order a bushing from Darryl T.  and plan for a day spent upside down.

Bring a 10MM socket and open the air filter box.  Look for a clean filter to indicate that the owner took care of it.  I know it's got less than 500 miles on the clock.  You may have the original filter, and it shouldn't be plugged with stuff.  Good Lord mine was clogged when I bought, but my car was NOT maintained.

You probably have flat-spotted tires from sitting, unless the car was elevated and stored properly.

Look for good boots on the steeringrack.  These not only keep out dust, but keep IN about 3 oz. of gear oil.

I would be very concerned about the fuel system, and wouldn't drive it home at the risk of FUBAR'ing your fuel distributor.  I'd trailer it home and get into the tank with a boot, cover, tube and hoses in hand.

Operate the windows a dozen times each.  The price for new window regualtors shocked me.

Operate EVERYTHING.  

Most of this is 'do it before you drive it' type stuff, and ALL of it was crapped out in my car to one degree or another.  I got very lucky driving to Charleston, SC from Greensboro, NC in my car and had only one severe problem that was resolved with flails from a tire iron. (A story for another time)  Even the owner's wife said, "You're gonna drive it home ! ?"  That wasn't very comforting.

You may want to come armed with DMC Houston's downloadable parts list.  As much as I hate it, there is the $20K rule with these cars.  The cost to buy it plus the cost to fix it to par with others is usually about $20K.  I (bragging) was able to beat down $5k on my price, and swiftly spent a tidy chunk of that savings with Rob Grady, et.al.

Good luck, and welcome to our certain public love/hate support group...

-Steve Peck
#3302 STAINLS SC


-Steve Peck


---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 16:45:22 -0000
From: "delorean502" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: rental hauling question

Hi,
I'm going to be picking up a car in Colorado and have a question.  I 
don't want to drive out there with my truck, so I want to rent one 
and use my flatbed, but every place I call says they don't do that.  
Does anyone know where I can call to rent a truck with a hitch, or 
rent a flatbed truck?  

Erik




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 13:54:46 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: more auto trans questions!

The plug you refer to is to connect the auto trans to the rest of the 
car's internal witing for the neutral start switch, back-up lights, 
power, and kick-down switch. The large round part with several pins is 
used for diagnostic purposes.
 To remove connectors release any locking tabs and pull out.
 If the shift computer failed completly the car would not shift out of 
first gear. The shifting of the trans is controlled by two electric 
shift solenoids that are powered by the shift computer and is also 
contolled by the gear selector. 
 If the trans is running good the best advice is to leave it alone. It 
is a good idea to check the condition and level of the trans fluid and 
final drive. You could also check the line pressure and other external 
adjustments. Set them as per the Workshop Manual.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> What is the small cylindrical plug type unit that hooks to the top 
of
> the harness that hangs in the engine compartment? It is a small 
black 
> cylinder with 5 male connectors. The harness that it plugs into has 
6 
> connectors... Is this just to hook up the various circuits for the 
> computer, or is this thing some sort of resistor or something??
> 
> How are the different connectors that plug into the transmisson 
> removed? Do you simply pull them out?
> 
> Also, I am wondering what would happen to the automatic transmission 
> if the governor completely failed. Lets say the two circuit boards 
> inside are completely removed. Could the transmission shift at all? 
> Would the transmission flip out and be damaged severely? I'm not 
> planning on doing this, I'm just wondering.
> 
> thanks, adam




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:53:54 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Heater box question..

Section 7.1.1

Part 5 and 6.  Are these 2 doors supposed to move independent of each other?  Mine move together unless I hold one while forcing the other. 

Also, anyone have a replacement source for all those sheets of foam on the flappers in the heater box?



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 13:28:23 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Tire matching (LONG)

Sorry, there is a typo on my posting.  Meant to say: 

"The Yoko's threads don't last long.  They are great riding tires ... but 
they DON"T last long.

Kayo Ong 
#5508
Lic 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 15:26:34 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Trunk Space

Yea, Small!!

You can fit the large flat style suitcase in the front luggage compartment, and a few "Gym" style bags in the shelf behind the seats.

Oh, and bring a can or two of "Fix a flat" because if you get a flat tire in the back, you will have to choose to either take the wheel or wife on the rest of the trip home!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: milo4845 [mailto:wayne_at_dml_knothole.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 11:29 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Trunk Space
> 
> 
> My Wife and I are going to pick our 1983 Delorean in NY. She would 
> like to know about Trunk Space. We will be drive it back to 
> Jacksonville Fl.. Can Anyone tell me what size bags the trunk Hold. 
> 
>



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 14:37:27 -0500
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12_at_dml_mlecmn.net>
Subject: Re: rental hauling question

expensive... but you can one-way rent a U-hell... I mean haul... 14' truck,
and their auto transport. In the end, even the untested D may be amore
reliable than the truck! (from past experience!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "delorean502" <delorean502_at_dml_excite.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 11:45
Subject: [DML] rental hauling question


> Hi,
> I'm going to be picking up a car in Colorado and have a question.  I
> don't want to drive out there with my truck, so I want to rent one
> and use my flatbed, but every place I call says they don't do that.
> Does anyone know where I can call to rent a truck with a hitch, or
> rent a flatbed truck?
>
> Erik
>



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