From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1025
Date: Monday, May 13, 2002 9:34 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Delorean witrh 483 miles turned out to be a bust!!!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Whatever happened to # 502??
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

5. RE: Oil Pan Removal
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

6. RE: Exhaust manifolds removal?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

7. RE: Exhaust manifolds gasket removal techniques & gasket installation process
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Cool Photo.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

9. Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust
From: "rendy_cheng" <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>

10. Two DMC-12s for sale on carsforsale.com
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>

11. Parts
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

12. Toyota Truck Calipers
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

14. Re: Whatever happened to # 502??
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

15. Re: Dealership signs
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Going to Memphis?
From: "Jeremy D." <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>

17. Re: rim upgrades
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Looking for custom wheels
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. heater
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

20. DMC wipers
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

21. Re: Exhaust manifolds removal? Are you stupid?
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Thanks
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Re: Re: Exhaust manifolds removal? Are you stupid?
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

24. RE: foam gasket on blower
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

25. RE: Exhaust manifolds gasket removal techniques & gasket installation process
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:25:34 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Delorean witrh 483 miles turned out to be a bust!!!

In a message dated 5/12/02 9:48:03 PM Central Daylight Time, jwit6_at_dml_cs.com 
writes:


> But did put in over 4K so far and still 
> doing all the work myself. I think you did the right thing. I think the 
> seller was an idiot for not taking your 13K offer. 

Actually the seller probably wasn't an idiot for that price.  certainly there 
are many more delorean fans in the world, and i'm sure us DML'ers represent 
only a small fraction of all people who own deloreans or are looking to buy 
one.  you know how everyone looks at your car at a show and says it must be 
worth $100,000?  well i'm sure there are some people out there who have that 
much money and would pay that owner more than $20,000 because they just don't 
know any better!!!!

I think you made the right decision too.  if nothing else, look at it as 
being what your instincts told you - and those are usually right.  even if 
only the seats are dry and cracked - that's $2K right there.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:15:34 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Whatever happened to # 502??

In a message dated 5/13/02 8:08:08 AM Central Daylight Time, 
spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> i was reading through the archives and noticed that 502 was on ebay 
> awhile back...what happened with it? how much did it go for ? or is 
> it still available?? it wouldnt be that hard to twist my arm into 
> coming up with some creative financing for that one
> 

I do believe Rob Grady purchased it after the auction.

Andy
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:39:45 -0400
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

Jim, The original fan fail module, needs to be taken out and replaced, it will constantly give problems. The factory replacement was a jumper wire. No fused protection. 
With The Fan Fix, it eliminates the Fan fail module, the pesky circuit breaker that is clicking on and off and runs each fan on it own 40 amp relay, we also give you dash indication when your getting power. No more fan problems.
John Hervey
www/specialTauto.com

    



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:28:22 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

In a message dated 5/13/02 9:06:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:

<< the fan fail module is a 
 simple hall effect sensor. It measures the current drawn by each fan and 
 if there's an imbalance between the two, the current generated by the 
 coil is enough to light the light. Wonderful, if it weren't so badly 
 made! I imagine there's a slight imbalance in your two fans - nothing to 
 loose any sleep over - but at 13.5v there's enough difference to turn 
 the light on.
 >>

Thanks for the explanation of the modules hall effect sensor design. Correct 
me if I'm wrong, but it seems the original design intent was to signal a 
failed fan thru a current flow imbalance between the fans,  so if both fans 
failed and were essentially open, or the circuit breaker tripped, or the 
cooling fan relay failed, then you would have no fans and no warning light....

You only get a warning light if one is running and the other is not. Correct? 
That seems to be a rare yet survivable situation (with only 1 fan running 
you'll probably be able to make it home). What I did with a rewired Fan Fail 
Module socket and another accessory relay in its place, will tell me whether 
the fans have power, not if there is a current imbalance. The light comes on 
only when the fans are supposed to be running but have no power due to a 
thermal trip or a cooling fan relay failure. 

Jim 6147




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:37:29 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Oil Pan Removal

I think a few people would love to see know about this procedure.. :)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: DMC Joe [mailto:dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 9:36 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Oil Pan Removal
> 
> 
> Jason,
> 
> Contact me directly for a simple procedure to remove and 
> replace you oil
> pan.
> 
> DMC Joe
> Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
> 



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:03:03 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust manifolds removal?

Even if you could find 7mm Stainless studs, I don't think the aluminum against the SS will make for a good combo.

I recently did this job, and found that letting liquid wench soak in for a few days (respraying it every day for a week) did the trick.  I did it in 2 steps-  I let the nuts soak for a week and removed them, then let the studs soak for a week and did them.  Everything came out with no fuss.  The manifolds were then Ceramic Coated and resurfaced.

All of the parts with the kit sold by PJ Grady which included the hard to find 7mm studs and a newer style 1 piece gasket that had some "spring" too it.  I like this gasket because it think it reduced the risk of snapping a stud while torque the nuts in because I did not feel the need to possibly over torque.  The new studs were installed with hi-temp (gold color) never-seize.

Others mentioned using extractors to remove broken studs..  I think most experienced shade tree mechanics will tell you that these tools just make it harder for your machine shop to fix the head because they then have to remove the broken tool AND the broken stud!!  That is if your lucky enough to not drill in to the aluminum.  If you happen to break a stud, I'd suggest NOT trying to remove it unless your are experienced in this art.  Bring it to a professional.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Griese [mailto:mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 8:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] Exhaust manifolds removal?
> 
<SNIP>
> 
> When you put it all back together, I would recommend using stainless
> studs, copperized split-ring nuts and Cop-a-Slip antisieze compound.
> Even if you never take the manifolds off again while you own the
> car, the next owner will really appreciate that you did.
> 
> Mike



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:28:00 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust manifolds gasket removal techniques & gasket installation process

A few people said use Vice Grips..  On most of my studs, I used a "Stud Extractor" which Snap-On and Sears both sell.  It is a nice little tool to have around.  However, this tool is kind of big and not easy to work with.  Eventually I gave up on using the tool and switched to double-nutting the stud, and using a wrench to back it out.  I advise others to use the double nut method over vice grips.

I do not think the studs Grady sells are Brass, they are probably cad plated steel.. I do not know for sure.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com [mailto:Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com]
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 12:16 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Exhaust manifolds gasket removal techniques & gasket
> installation process
> 
<SNIP>

>     IF the stud remains in the block & the nut was removed, 
> AFTER removing 
> the entire left or right manifold, spray the studs again and 
> using a pair of 
> vise grips or channel locks, GENTLY lock them onto the middle 
> of the stud and 
> loosen. The stud will come out, just work slowly and with 
> adequate space, 
> spraying the stud with liquid wrench. 
>     
<SNIP>
> 
>     Purchase one of the manifold kits from a DeLorean vendor. 
> I installed the 
> entire PJ Grady kit on my 1981...very simple and easy to 
> install. PJ Grady 
> includes brass hardware replacements in the exhaust manifold 
> kit. The gasket 
> that they sell is a one piece item, which is thicker than the 
> Volvo or 
> Renault OEM parts.
> 
<SNIP>



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:54:08 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Cool Photo.

Gull wing Corvette Limo.

http://www.carnuts.com/Of_The_Month/Monthly%20JPEGS/nut_of_the_month/Limo.jpg



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:25:54 -0000
From: "rendy_cheng" <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust

<from original question poster>
Hi Everyone,
This is the last post related to my high hydrocarbon problem.
From the last email,  my car failed the smog check again even 
though I have done most of stuff including ajusting CO.
The most interesting thing about my last smog check is that the 
HC reading is varying between 80 to 240 ppm (120ppm is max 
limit)  Last week, my _new_ mechanic discovered  I have a bad 
fuel injector (#2).  By cleaning all the fuel injectors, my car 
passed the smog check with out problems.  I like to thanks every 
one who helps me.  Rob from PJ Grady also has been extremely 
helpful.  I also like to thanks him for that.

rendy




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:47:55 -0500
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: Two DMC-12s for sale on carsforsale.com

Attn all DML people wanting to buy a De for under $15,000:

Well, gang, I don't have $10,000 saved up yet, and I got the
notification in the mail about these, so I thought I would pass the info
on to The List. There are two DMC-12s for sale, one at $10,000 with
52,128 miles; one for $14,500 with 40,700 miles. One's in CA and one's
in TX. The Texas car has good notes and descriptions and one photograph
(and looks to be in good shape -- also comes with extras); the one in CA
you'll have to call the guy because he includes no info. Due to the
mileage on these cars I will assume they have had the bugs worked out.
One of them seems to have been very well maintained, and the guy
provides a lot of info. Phone numbers are listed on the pages so you can
call.

Okay, if that is enough to entice you to go and have a look, here are
the links.

This is the one in San Francisco Bay area:
http://www.carsforsale.com/Find_A_Vehicle/vehicle_details.asp?VID=1456066

This is the one (#5203 - 81 no gasflap) in Jefferson, Texas:
http://www.carsforsale.com/Find_A_Vehicle/vehicle_details.asp?VID=9215727

As I said, I can't afford either of these right now, but would like to
see them sold to a DML'er. It seems to me the guys and gals on this list
really care about their cars. :)

Best regards,
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"
--
www.wwno.org
504-280-7000



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:28:39 -0700
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Parts

Hey Folks,
A note on some parts for those who may be able to use them. Just wanted 
you to know these are offered by a current DML list member, -but don't 
hold that against me. :-)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1828905115&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:US:1

Click 'see other items' to, er. . . see the other parts.

Send any questions direct please.

"One month 'til Memphis!"

Oliver Holler
VIN#10694




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:39:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Toyota Truck Calipers

A while back on the list, there was some discussion
about a 4 piston front brake caliper cross reference
with a Toyota 4x4.  I've forgotten the details of the
cross reference.  As I recall, someone even had
pictures.  I did try to search the archives for both
"Toyota" and "Caliper", but to no avail.  if anyone
remembers this post or has info, please email me
privately.

Thanks,
 Steve

=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:46:44 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

In a message dated 5/13/02 10:36:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:

<< it eliminates the Fan fail module, the pesky circuit breaker that is 
clicking on and off and runs each fan on it own 40 amp relay, we also give 
you dash indication when your getting power.  >>

So you remove Fan Fail Module (191), remove the circuit breaker (193), double 
up the cooling fan relays (112) one for each fan, then rely on two inline 15 
amp fuses, one to each fan. Then you then power the fan fail light (192) when 
ever the fans run. 

What if only one of the fans blows the fuse, or isn't getting power? Will the 
light still stay on letting you think everything is OK? 

Also why not run one additional accessory relay so the light only indicates a 
"fail" condition when there really is no voltage going to one of the fans?

Jim 6147



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:53:45 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Whatever happened to # 502??

Andy, Grady bought it?  I guess a simple phone call would verify this.

About the auction, I remember that it had bids up to about $40,000, and
it still had not met the 'reserve'.  It didn't sell in the auction I
saw...

Jim
1537


On Mon, 13 May 2002 11:37:13 -0000 "spaceace3113"
<spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com> writes:
> i was reading through the archives and noticed that 502 was on ebay 
> awhile back...what happened with it? how much did it go for ? or is 
> it still available?? it wouldnt be that hard to twist my arm into 
> coming up with some creative financing for that one
> 
>


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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:54:49 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dealership signs

Walt, i happen to know first hand that the winning bidder is on the 
DML.. (not me)

I will not divulge who, but maybe the two of you can get together and 
have the pieces machined to make both your signs good... think about 
it, the D is just the C backwards..

So what do you say, Mr. winning bidder? care to reveal yourself??




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:36:53 -0400
From: "Jeremy D." <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Going to Memphis?

  Hello list, Im going to the memphis show and I need a roommate to split
hotel costs. I presently have a room reserved at the radison if your 
interested.
Also if your near Maryland I would definately like to caravan or might 
be able
to take on a passenger. Im leaving from Maryland on Wednesday, staying
over night in Knoxville, and returning home on Sunday. If you think
you might be interested, drop me a note.

-Jeremy Delaney
10842

thesmokingman(at)comcast.net 
or (301)855-7517 (leave a message)





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:53:42 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: rim upgrades

> I truely believe that the original rim design looks
> best and no other aftermarket look comes close to looking better.
> Have these or will these ever been created, or am I just living in a
> dream world?

Making reproduction rims in any size is easy to do for the person who has
the equipment.  Some of the nicer aftermarket rims are made using CNC
equipment, so once the measurements are in the computer, a robot does the
work.

> Can tires be used to keep
> the original geometry of the overall circumferance?

Yes, I've done this with my car.  The front wheels are OEM size except an
inch wider, and the rear wheels are just a gnats ass smaller -- not enough
to make any remarkable difference in wheel size.  I haven't driven enough on
these rims to notice if they improve the handling.  I still have issues with
getting the front rims to fit properly.  There is a little machining left to
do to clean up where the front lug holes were welded shut & re-drilled.
(What a fiasco!)  Then there is the problem of having the wider rims rub the
front sway bar.  This is a problem even with the OEM configuration, but
wider rims only makes this worse.  One thing I have noticed about driving on
low profile rims is that the rear camber does weird things.  Sometimes the
wheels appear to lean inward, and other times they appear mostly vertical.
If I do some hard cornering, stop & get out & look then the wheels lean
inward.  If I pick the rear up & set it down, then the wheels go back to
normal.  I've only noticed this with low profile rims.  I'm planning on
having my rear lower control arms modified to be adjustable like Don Steger
or Marty Maier offer.

At the rate things are going, I'm not going to have a front sway bar
prototype ready for the Memphis show.  But since driving cross-country to
Memphis doesn't involve many sharp turns, I plan to have the aftermarket
rims on the car anyway.  I posted some pictures of them in the Yahoo DML
photos section.  Since then I have put lowered springs on the front which
improves the looks & handling remarkably.

Walt




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:07:39 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for custom wheels

> I'm looking for custom wheels for my Delorean but the local shops
> don't know where to look for a listing.

That is no big surprise.  Besides being such a hard car to find listings
for, the wheels are also unusual.  The front vs. rear are different sizes.
The lug spacing is small for the size of the rim.  And the front rims are
rather narrow by conventional standards.  There are very few rim
combinations available that match these criteria.

>If the wheels have to be custom made, what dimensions should
> I use?

Check the DML archives.  These measurements have been listed several times.
Search under "walter" & "rims" & "TSW".  I've said a lot about my rim
adventures before.

> Also, where can I get a spare tire?

Some show up on eBay once in a while.  The vendors probably have plenty from
parts cars.  Those aren't things that normally need replacing unless they
are badly corroded or misplaced by a previous owner.

Walt




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:07:58 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: heater

So to recap:
if the heater selection is not blowing out warm air or any air, and the engine is not overheating, no water leaking, but turning the selector dial will cause doors to open and close - how do I get in there to find out if it's a broken cable to the heater or if that control is shot?
 
Marvin Stein
#17707
website: printeddrinkware.com
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
tel:  519-434-1666
fax: 519-434-7071


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:13:20 +0100
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: DMC wipers

I am trying to find replace Bosch wipers, does anyone know the spec for
them?

Chris
vin 5255




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:59:49 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifolds removal? Are you stupid?

Nooooo!!!!  Do NOT use stainless studs in an aluminum block!  These
will corrode even faster than the original steel studs.  Always use
plated fasteners when dealing with aluminum.

John Yeoman

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_n...> wrote:
>Use stainless steel studs and nuts like
> the other gentleman said as well as the anti-seize compound.





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:47:35 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Thanks

My thanks to all who responed to my newbie intro post, especially 
Martin. A few more questions:

1) The coolant line on my car on the drivers side (at the engine) 
hangs down much more than the right side. The line is clamped below 
the body "sill" (for lack of a better term.) It seems to be installed 
correctly and there is no way to raise it due to the engine. Almost 
seems that the line after the hose exiting the engine is to long, but 
I don't want to cut it before asking if anyone elses is like this.
The other side

2) Has anyone installed a bypass oil filter on the car? Anyone use 
Redline oils?

3) I'm unable to find the p/n for my CV boots in the parts manual.

Any input would be appreciated.

Gary




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 19:47:13 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust manifolds removal? Are you stupid?

In a message dated 05/13/2002 7:16:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

<< Do NOT use stainless studs in an aluminum block >>

    The PJ Grady Exhaust manifold kit has brass hardware. Use Anti-seize 
(Gold or Silver) compound. Spray liberally with Liquid Wrench before trying 
to remove. It's not that hard people. You can do it, just work slowly and 
keep your cool.

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:57:25 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: foam gasket on blower

>Does your blower motor still work......
>Or should  we refer to it as a blender from now on?
>Jim

It works fine... maybe a little less air pressure. why?



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:09:45 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust manifolds gasket removal techniques & gasket installation process


Correction, the tool is a "Stud Remover", not extractor..  I hope there was no confusion between my reference to this tool, and the tool I earlier referred to be used for removing broken studs.  

Sears Item #00904458000
Mfr. Model #4458


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc A. Levy 
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 11:28 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] Exhaust manifolds gasket removal 
> techniques & gasket
> installation process
> 
> 
> A few people said use Vice Grips..  On most of my studs, I 
> used a "Stud Extractor" which Snap-On and Sears both sell.  
> It is a nice little tool to have around.  However, this tool 
> is kind of big and not easy to work with.  Eventually I gave 
> up on using the tool and switched to double-nutting the stud, 
> and using a wrench to back it out.  I advise others to use 
> the double nut method over vice grips.



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