From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1028
Date: Thursday, May 16, 2002 2:12 PM

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. heated convex side mirrors
From: "Walter Coe" <>

2. Re: Exhaust manifolds removal?
From: "Walter Coe" <>

3. Re: Delorean # a steal of a price
From: id <>

4. RE: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: "K Creason" <>

5. DeLorean Car Show

6. Re: Thanks

7. Graceland Room
From: Watkins Family <>

8. Memphis from the west on 6/12
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <>

9. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: "DMC Joe" <>

10. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: "DMC Joe" <>

11. auto tranny comp finally replaced..
From: "adam_one_million" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:17:06 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: heated convex side mirrors

I'm getting ready to make a batch of convex side mirrors (I know I've been
saying this for a long time, but with Memphis coming I don't want to
disappoint anyone. :-)

I have heard that there is an aftermarket kit available to stick on the back
side of mirror glass to make it defrost.  I've check around and couldn't
find such an animal.  Can anyone say who sells it?  Since the convex mirrors
that I make need spacers behind them (because the DeLorean mirror housing is
very deep), there should be plenty of room back there for a heater.  This
won't change the shape of the glass, but it could influence how I make the

For those of you who are on my waiting list, I'm going to try to have them
ready so you can have them on your car when you leave for Memphis.
Otherwise you can see me there with the goods and I can make sure they are
installed properly (but it isn't rocket science.)



Message: 2
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:59:48 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifolds removal?

> An impact wrench!?  On rusted bolts!?  One word:  no... no... no... no,
> no, no, no!!!

I'm not advocating using an impact wrench like you use to loosen lug nuts on
tires.  I'm talking about one of those little baby ratchet types.  I still
call it an impact wrench.  You can just as well call it a pneumatic ratchet.
I'll try to make an adjustment to my vocabulary.  I have better results with
'pneumatic ratchets' that than using slow even torque.  I use a pressure
regulator to gradually increase the torque.



Message: 3
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:06:09 -0500
From: id <>
Subject: Re: Delorean # a steal of a price

it is the only factory twin turbo. it was a prototype that never made it into production.

mark wrote:

>  I'm not trying to sound dumb but, I am still learning all about Deloreans and I don't know why #502 is so special.  Will some one tell me? Thanks.
>                                                    Nick
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 18:17:09 -0500
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: RE: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

>I really do need to stop talking about it and go and actually BUILD one 
>of these badgers, don't I?!!!



Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:40:26 EDT
Subject: DeLorean Car Show

Well as I write this its 4 weeks and counting.

We have over 400 people registered so far and that surpasses Cleveland 
although not everyone is going to all the events.

To my surprise the first event to sell out is Sunday.
I have a few spaces left for anyone that may have it in the mail already but 
basically its a packed house and we will be doing a split session as 
advertised on Sunday.  So decide if you want the early or late shift on 
Sunday and then I will have a sign up sheet during the events so you can pick 
your time.

If you haven't registered for Sunday you may do so and I will confirm you as 
I get cancellations as there are always some.  If we don't get you in you 
will receive a check for the amount back in the registration packet when you 
come although I will notify you well in advance (10 days) so you can plan 
your trip. 

If you have already sent in your registration you are definately OK.
No need to check.

Due to Johns cancellation the Friday and Sat events still have room although 
they are getting full.

Thanks for all your support


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 22:37:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Thanks

My RH coolant hose is also just as you described, even after replacing all 
rubbers.  I saw one on a hoist at Kevin(?) Abato's site that looked the same 
   Don  6860


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 23:07:47 -0400
From: Watkins Family <>
Subject: Graceland Room


Plans have changed so I have a reservation at the Graceland Hotel that
is open if someone wants it.  First person to e-mail me gets it.  I will
only be able to respond to the first person who writes.  I will not have
the time to respond to numerous messages.  If you don't hear from me by
Friday please consider the room taken by someone else.  I will not
cancel my reservation until I know someone on the list gets it.


Tom  watbmv(AT)


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 22:22:52 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <>
Subject: Memphis from the west on 6/12

Hey everyone,
        It's getting close to Memphis!  I moved across country from NJ to AZ
last year so I am not afraid of a drive.  Ryan McCaffery (VP of the AZ-D
club) and I are going to drive from the Phoenix area to Memphis starting
Wednesday morning, 6/12.  (Yes, if my DeLorean makes it out here in time
we're going to take it!)  We plan to arrive just in time for dinner on
Thursday evening.
        What I would like to know is: who is driving from Southern
California, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico?  It's an easy shot right out
Interstate 40 so we could meet pretty much anywhere.  Drop me an email if
you would like to join us on our voyage east.

Looking forward to meeting you all there!

VIN #16816 (Making the trip)
VIN #10365 (For sale and kind of "off-white")


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:37:29 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail


Thanks for your detailed explanation.

Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
DeLorean Website Directory

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

> Martin, Joe and Group.
> The Fan Fix is not an engineering marvel. It's an electronic device that
> works and keeps the price down under $100.00.  The way it's wired, each
> works on it's own relay, so you have a 14 amp fan load on a 40 amp relay
> instead of two fans working on one 40 amp relay. The unit is wired to show
> voltage going to the fans:hense the fan fail light, lights up when power
> going to them. It's not a hall effect sensor effect. As yawl know the
> design on the De lorean didn't work long till it burned up or cooked it's
> self and was rendered useless. So, due to the extreme low to no failure
> of the fans, The Fan Fix and the fan Fail replacement was wired to show
> voltage going to the fans by lighting the center consol light. The upgrade
> build is better than the official replacement in the De lorean work book
> replacement. De lorean used a jumper wire. We fuse ours where they didn't.
> lorean wasn''t worried about the fans either due to the low failure rate.
> If people will look at the positive instead of always looking at the
> and understand the unit before it's criticized, you may see some of the
> positive features of the fan fix lighting the light on the dash.
> #1. You can see the cycling of the A/C low pressure switch when your low
> Freon. This will help you from destroying the $250.00 + compressor. :-)
> #2. When the A/C isn't running, you can now see when the otterstat is
> on and off by the dash light and not have to guess or not even hear at all
> the fan are or not coming on. :-). Then you can reference by the gauge
> they are coming on.
> #3. The way The Fan Fix Dual 2 x 2 is wired, the Circuit breaker is
> eliminated because we now faster acting fuses instead of the old slow
> breaker. :-).
> The circuit breaker is always going to over heat and scorch the wires and
> turn on and off giving you false sense of what's going on. :-(,,. If you
> upgrade to the 40+ amps breaker, your just allowing more current to flow
> you have lost any protection you may have had.
> #4. Also by the way I wire it, you no longer draw power off the wiring
> which will lessen the load on the electronic ECU's.
> By these simple ways of designing the units, the price is right, it's
> warranty for life, and it's not an engineering, complex device that has
> parts to over heat, break and run the price up. I go by the KISS theory.
> Keep up the good work. I like to see engineers get onto a problem and make
> bigger that what is:-)..
> P.S. I could build all the features into my unit, then the price would go
> and then all I would hear is the complaints of high price.
> Have a good one.
> John Hervey
> Trying to keep it simple.


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:39:15 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail


Thanks for your explanation; keep up the good work.

Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
DeLorean Website Directory

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail

> NO! - this has never been my intention. I have always said that I will 
> not try and make these items for sale, but to design and test a system 
> that works the same way, and to make *my* design available "open source" 
> for anyone who'd like to build it themselves too. I don't have anything 
> to gain from this other than saving myself the price of a FanZilla, and 
> oiling the rusty gears of my electronics knowledge! I've never even seen 
> a FanZilla, much less taken one apart. What it does, if not how it 
> works, is common knowledge.
> Rob asked me the other day about my fan delay system, the way I've 
> re-engineered the door lock module, my new design for that, and the 
> remote starter/alarm I've fitted to my car, and how I intend interfacing 
> it to door-openers. He was interested but hardly concerned that I'd be 
> stealing any business :-)
> Martin
> #1458
> DMC Joe wrote:
> >Martin,
> >
> >Is this device being produced to compete with the Fanzilla?
> >
> >DMC Joe


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:58:50 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <>
Subject: auto tranny comp finally replaced..

Well I finally got around to installing my new autotrans governor. It 
was a painless installation, much easier than I expected. Took about 
two hours, and thats cause I was being carefull. 

Anyway when I went to start the car after the install, it wouldnt 
start.. I found that the park safety switch for the new unit is 
broken inside somehow. I jumpered the two pins on the block connector 
together in the engine bay, and the car will start.. in any gear 

Also the car will start fine with the old unit plugged into the block 
connector. If I push one of the buttons, the reverse lights come on, 
if I push the other, the car wont start. On the failed unit, the car 
will not start with the button in any position.

So my questions are thus: How are these two switches set up inside 
the unit? Are they completely independent of the shift comp? It seems 
like they are, since I have driven my car with the jumper in place 
and it shifts fine. 

If I open the plug housing for these two switches, can they be 
serviced? Should I maybe cut the plugs off the two units I have and 
swap them around, I could crimp the good plug to the good shift comp?

Also, I got some oil and maybe trans fluid on my stainless. What is a 
good way to wash it off? I also ordered my Pirellis yesterday, P6000s 
and P600s!!

Adam 16683


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