From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1034
Date: Monday, May 20, 2002 7:35 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Engine lift
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

2. Re: Even more questions
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

3. Re: Type of fuel to use
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>

4. fast idle
From: Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com

5. Re: Engine lift
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

6. Re: fast idle
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

7. radio bezel/blower repair
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>

8. Re: Update: Overheating Fuel Tank.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Spare Tire. It Works!!!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

10. alignments
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:39:38 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Engine lift

So the lastest problem that I ran into is, I stripped the threads of the oil 
drain plug.  Not the plug itself, but the oil pan.  So what I think I have to 
do is put a new oil pan in.  So to do that i need to lift the engine up just a 
little bit to get to all the bolts for the oil pan.  So my question is where 
are the engine mounting bolts that i have to loosen and what is the best way 
to lift the engine for what i need.

Thanks
  Willie
  Vin 5043
  http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:06:35 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Even more questions

here are some vendor links that will be helpful when you cant find the parts you need...

http://www.delorean.com/
http://www.pjgrady.com/
http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/main.html
http://www.specialtauto.com/
http://www.pearce-design.com/
http://www.dmc.tv/
http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/
http://www.deloreanone.com/
http://www.delorean-parts.com/

check out the sites and see what they have to offer. some prices are higher than the
others and some prices are lower than others. i hope these links will help you in the
future.

mark




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 17:41:31 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>
Subject: Re: Type of fuel to use

What about the upgraded engine that DMC Houston makes?  Does anyone have one
of those and did they give you any guideline and/or suggestions on what fuel
to use?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Ryan" <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Type of fuel to use


> It is my belief that recommendations such as this are
> a bit of an over simplification.  I suggest one use
> that grade which gives (or seems to give) the best
> performance, or even comfort level.
>
> A number of factors can influence that decision.  Do
> you drive "hard"?  At what altitude do you do most of
> your driving (we don't all live at sea level).  Has
> the car been modified in any way? ETC., ETc.!!
>
> Use the grade that gives you the performance you want
> and listen carefully for detonation.  If you
> experience pre-ignition, move up a grade and make sure
> your car is properly tuned.
>
> Dick Ryan
>
>
> --- James <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl> wrote:
> BIG SNIP - - - -
>
> > Use 87 if you are in US and Canada. Use 91 if you
> > are in Europe.
> > I hope this clears up the confusion.
> >
> > Tom Niemczewski
> > VIN 6298 (FOR SALE)
> > tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "mccarthy410" <mccarthy410_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I am a new prospective owner of a DeLorean, before
> > I buy, I'm
> > > gathering all info I can.  One question comes to
> > mind,  I know the
> > > manual and several sites say to use 91 Octane
> > fuel,  only thing close
> > > to it is 93, and that does get expensive.   Can
> > 87 or 89 Octane be
> > > used with no ill effects? I'm told how the
> > Europeans and how the U.S.
> > > rates gasoline are two different things,  any
> > truth to this?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
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>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
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>
>
>





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 18:49:43 EDT
From: Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: fast idle

I just did a tune up on my car, plugs,wires,cap and rotor. I also reinstalled 
my turbos which I had rebuilt. Everything went fine until I started it, it 
stared right up but idles at 3000. It idled fine when parked last fall. How 
do I check the cause of this problem? I'm not even sure where to start 
looking.HELP                                                                
                                                          Thanks   Lee 
                                                         vin #1699 



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 18:32:32 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Engine lift

Before you go and try to replace the old pan. There are replacement oil 
pan plugs for stripped oil pan threads.  This would be a lot less work. 
 You might have to do some digging since it is metric, but a good import 
auto store should have what you need.  Foreign auto in Downers Grove, IL 
might be a good start.

BOB

wmack wrote:

>So the lastest problem that I ran into is, I stripped the threads of the oil 
>drain plug.  Not the plug itself, but the oil pan.  So what I think I have to 
>do is put a new oil pan in.  So to do that i need to lift the engine up just a 
>little bit to get to all the bolts for the oil pan.  So my question is where 
>are the engine mounting bolts that i have to loosen and what is the best way 
>to lift the engine for what i need.
>
>Thanks
>  Willie
>  Vin 5043
>  http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 01:47:47 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle

Make sure that the throttle spool isn't sticking. And to make sure 
that it isn't bent out of position, try pushing down on it, and see if 
that slows the idle. It sounds funny I know, but I had the exact 
same thing on my car as well after I replaced the right, bypass 
hose on my water pump.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Meyerleem_at_dml_c... wrote:
> I just did a tune up on my car, plugs,wires,cap and rotor. I also 
reinstalled 
> my turbos which I had rebuilt. Everything went fine until I 
started it, it 
> stared right up but idles at 3000. It idled fine when parked last 
fall. How 
> do I check the cause of this problem? I'm not even sure where 
to start 
> looking.HELP                                                                
>                                                           Thanks   Lee 
>                                                          vin #1699




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 02:24:54 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: radio bezel/blower repair

Hello folks,

Pulled and repaired my heater/AC blower today. Lots of rust in bottom 
bearing but otherwise OK. Water collects at the blower bottom through 
the cooling tube, suggest drilling small drainage holes when you have 
it out or replacing it. Better still is to increase tube penetration 
into the duct by cementing a smaller ID tube into the larger one.

Also pulled and repaired the auto tranny electronics, rebuilt the A/C 
mode control and leaked checked, added oil and charged the A/C 
system. Was a busy day. I recall reading that DMC had issued an old 
service note to reduce the R12 charge down from 2.8 pounds
to 2.2 pounds, anyone familiar with that note?

Thanks to all who suggested the foam on the rear of the heater box
to solve the low airflow problem, that indeed was the culprit.

The bezel on my Craig radio is warped so I'm looking for a new one.
(I'll buy the entire radio if the price is right.)

I'm machining tig welding up a new SS pickup assembly for the fuel 
pump. It'll replace the hose and be a straight drop down (or slight 
offset) to a custom SS baffle assembly. Anyone tried this kind of 
thing before? Have to keep the return line away from the baffle or 
may have problems when the fuel level is low (proper baffle design 
will prevent this.) This could explain why some of you are having 
suction problems even with the spring installed. 

Changing most of the coolant hoses under the car to PTFE under 
stainless flex used in aircraft, and SS coolant bellows for supply 
and return at the engine. Anyone done this, or anything else, to 
improve MTBF of the cooling system? 

Going to change the wiring also. Studying the schematic shows an 
appalling lack of design expertise. For instance, too many things on 
the accessory relay that shouldn't be. What other car allows 
energizing the A/C clutch and fans with the key in the first position 
and the engine off? (There are lots of other things hot in the car 
that shouldn't be hot in accessory.)

Also, the car doesn't seem to have a fusable link for the main power 
circuit and there is too much wiring upstream of the fuse box without 
any overcurrent protection. Don't get me wrong, I like my new toy but 
I've seldom seen an electrical system so poorly designed.

Gary




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 02:34:00 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Update: Overheating Fuel Tank.

From your description I am not sure what you are doing but if you are 
having pressure problems with the fuel system reconnect the vacuum 
hoses and try running the motor with the fuel cap loose (put it on 1/2 
way) If for some reason the tank is running at a negative pressure 
then the fuel pump will have a hard time trying to get the fuel out of 
the tank against the vacuum. On the other hand if the tank is 
"swelling up" then you have a positive pressure problem. Again 
loosening the fuel cap should temporaraly "fix" this. If loosening the 
cap helps then you have to go over the vapor recovery system to see 
what is causing the problem. The fuel system for the engine doesn't 
work if there is any vapor in it, it is a totaly positive pressure, 
liquid system. The only place the vapors go is the vapor recovery 
system. If the fuel tank is at a negative pressure that would 
aggravate any tendency to cavitation before the fuel pump i.e. in the 
suction pick-up hose. Unless you are in extremly hot conditions if 
everything is functioning correctly you don't need any modifacations 
or insulation to the fuel tank.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> Took my car back out again today, and recreated the same 
> problem. This time, I had filled up the tank, and got the same 
> problem. So filling the tank with cool fuel fresh from the pump 
> doesn't solve the issue. Now, I've had this same problem since 
> before I installed the spring inside of the fuel pump pick-up 
> hose. The only difference is that since installing the spring, I'm 
> able to maintain accelleration. Although, I am al for excluding 
> both the spring, and the pick up hose all together to avoid these 
6585 "X"




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 04:19:35 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Spare Tire. It Works!!!

Due to a nail in the side curvature of the tread on my tire, I need 
to seal it. No repair shop would touch it, which I can understand. 
Anyhow, I went home, and shot some fix-a-flat inside hoping to 
cure it. After I completed the settling drive, I decided to take a 
look _at_dml_ my spare. I inflated it a couple of times up to 60psi, and 
drained it. To my surprise, it became plyable again. So, I took it 
back to the shop, and explained to the guy that my spare 
wouldn't hold any air. So long story short, he poped the tire off 
the rim, and reseated it. But he also coated the tire bead with 
"speed seal" before he inflated it. The stuff was black, and 
smelled like model airplane glue. I let it sit overnight, and put it 
back into the trunk this morning. When I went to leave work this 
afternoon, I noticed the fix-a-flat failed, and the tire was almost 
flat. If I was going to damage a rim due to a bad tire, I figured I 
rather ruin the spare. So I threw it on, and away I went. I'm happy 
to say that after 11 miles, and 6 hours mounted on the rear, the 
tire pressure is still _at_dml_ 60psi!

Just thought that I too might share a happy story of sorts with 
everyone here that had a good ending (except for the rear tire 
anyways). For the most part, the tire ran quiet, and only slightly 
rough. So there is hope for those pesky spares that can't hold 
air!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 05:18:41 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: alignments

I recently took my Delorean to a local import car shop and had my 
right cv joint replaced, also the mechanic said he found the right TA 
bolt loose and tightened it up. I never noticed it before, but the 
right side of my car seems like it sits higher than the other side.

Could this result from tightening the TA bolt improperly? What else 
could cause this? I also have a rotational clunking sound coming from 
the rear. Someone thought that it was my old tires, so I will have to 
wait and see after I get my pirellis in a few days.

Also my front tires are worn on the outer edge. I heard that this is 
normal for the delorean from the way it turns or something, but mine 
seems excessive. Can this be adjusted?




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