From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1037
Date: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 6:08 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Rear License Bezel
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

2. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. no start problem
From: mgailey_at_dml_emindustries.com

4. Re: Steering wheel removal - the tool
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Re: #502 Price
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

6. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

7. oterstat
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

8. Philadelphia Deloreans?
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. #3302 is for sale
From: Steve Peck <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. t liner
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

11. Re: blown head gasket
From: "davvet2" <davvet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: wiring and AC charging
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

13. Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

14. lifting car
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Cruise control pics up
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. [ADMIN] List Etiquette
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

17. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: wiring and AC charging
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Next big job
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

20. Re: no start problem
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

21. RE: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

22. Re: Re: fast idle
From: Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com

23. Clutch mstr & slave cylinders info needed
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

24. Re: Cruise control pics up
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>

25. Re: Type of fuel to use
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:35:28 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Rear License Bezel

Whats the auction number cause I can't find it.....

Cheers

Paul
#6463 

--- Joseph Molino <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net> wrote: >
there is one on ebay being sold by Bob Miller.
> 
> foxmul
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Digital Devices"
> <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 4:26 PM
> Subject: [DML] Rear License Bezel
> 
> 
> > I REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY need one of these
> rear license plate bezel
> > frames ..
> >
> > the black piece that holds the plate on the rear
> between the taillamps!
> >
> >
> > if anybody has one or leads on one...
> >
> > please let me know
> >
> > i have tried grady and they tried housten... with
> no avail... must have
> > been misplaced in the move
> >
> > please email me directly
> >
> > ken_at_dml_digital-devices.net
> >
> > thanks much
> > Kenneth
> > 05541
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
>  

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Everything you'll ever need on one web page
from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
http://uk.my.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:12:56 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

Sorry  John, but I strongly disagree - all that's required is a force 
that pulls the wheel off in a strait line. I believe the threads are M6 
and go to a depth of about 10mm. In addition to my last post, the large 
bolt that pushes onto the end of the column should be sharpened into a 
point as this locates it centrally.

The contraption James made has worked on 100% of cars tested (numbering 
three so far) and none could be removed without it.

Paul, can you bring it with you to the NEC this Sunday - I'll take a 
photo of it.

Martin
#1458

jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>You can use a standard steering wheel puller with some modifications.
>
>First you need long bolts to clear the steering wheel with the puller, I used 
>1/4 inch threaded rod from the hardware store.
>next you need to drill and retap the two threaded holes in the steering wheel 
>for the puller, they are metric and way to small. they will strip  you try to 
>pull the steering wheel off. You may even have to go to the next larger size 
>rod depending how much force is needed to pull the steering wheel off. 
>But by using the right tool for the job the steering wheel will come off.
>John
>





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:17:54 -0400
From: mgailey_at_dml_emindustries.com
Subject: no start problem

Alright. Let's see who can figure this one out.
My car will turn over but not start. When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel
pump energize and pump for a second or two. If I shoot some starting fluid or
pour some gas down the intake, she fires up immediately and will run for a short
period of time until the gas is used up. Any ideas?
On a side note, I was driving through my small neighborhood the other day and
saw a couple of guys pushing a Pantera off to the side of the road. I stopped to
help them and the dude said, "Man, she runs fine and then she'll just die on me
out of the blue." I said, "Yeah, I know the feeling." Then he told me about some
overheating problems he was having and I said, "Yeah, I know the feeling." He
went on to mention that he's had numerous electrical gremlins and I said, "Yeah,
I know the feeling. I have a Delorean."
The whole event made me feel a lot better about all the problems I have with my
damnable car until he told me that he only paid $500 for the Pantera. SOB.
Matthew 3946





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:42:19 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal - the tool

http://www.dmc12.co.uk/Steringwheel.html

(page loading is a bit dodgy, but everything's there)




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:38:25 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: #502 Price

If you look what you can buy that will perform as well as 502, and has 
the looks, the price is very resonable.  






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:40:45 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

Hi All,

It seems I have a rather unusual electrical problem with my door locks. and I was hoping some of you electronics gurus might be able to shed some insight onto the situation.

With the ignition -on-, both door locks function normally and correctly.  However, with the ignition -off-, all I am able to do is lock the doors.  Unlock fails to function.

I was able to track down the situation to this:  With the doors locked and key on, the voltage in the brown/pink wire is 13 volts.  With the key off, it drops to .75 volts.  Thus, there is not enough juice in the circuit to fire off the unlock process.  (For reference, I find the purple wire is always 13v, and the brown/silver is 13v (key on or off) with the doors in the unlocked position.)

I followed the wiring diagram's "NK" wires all over the place... they lead to the solenoids, door lock switches, and the inertia switch.  I tried all of the following to no avail:

- Disconnecting each door's wiring completely at the T-panel.
- Disconnecting each door's switch and solenoids on an individual basis
- Unplugging the inertia switch
- Re-grounding the inertia switch.
- (By the way, tripping the inertia switch -will- unlock the doors... but can't remember right now if it did so with the key off as well.  It is an updated/relocated switch with the white paint on it.)
- Cleaned all of the contacts I could find with Tarn-X (thanks Bob Zilla for the tip) 
- Replaced new Lockzilla with old module, swapped back

Something is very odd here that I just can't figure out.  Any ideas what I'm missing, or ideas on what to check?

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com 



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:05:25 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: oterstat


Hello Joe,

   I just bought a replacement oterstat and fanzilla from your site.  I have
one question:  What's the easiest way to replace the oterstat?  I don't want
to drain/refill the entire cooling system - can it be swapped "quickly"?
Any tips?


thanks,

-Hank





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:18:38 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Philadelphia Deloreans?

Hello,
Well, my wife and I decided to move.  We've had enough of this West 
Michigan life.  Its time to see other things, so we have decided to 
move to Philadelphia.  Although it won't be until November or so, I'd 
like to get a couple of Delorean contacts out there so I can have a 
couple of friends already there when I move.  So, are there any 
Delorean owners on the list that live in or around Philly?  Sadly, I 
won't be bringing the Delorean with me.  Its going to be stored in 
Holland, Michigan.  
Please contact me off list.  It would be great to hear from some of 
you.  

Erik Geerdink
4512




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 07:40:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Peck <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: #3302 is for sale

[Steve: If you haven't already do so, list your car in the for sale area on the list web site.  Bruce B., this weeks moderator]


My '81 #3302 is available for sale in Charleston, SC.  I am firm at $18.8K, until August.  The car is now nearly flawless and Memphis-ready, having had every conceivable item checked, rebuilt or reconditioned.  It is being sold only because I need a replacement daily driver more than I need the "D."

A detailed list of repairs, upgrades and restorations done in 2002 is available for serious buyers, with photos.  It is a TON of stuff, *easily* exceeding $10,000 if done by a mechanic/trim shop.

Please inquire *only* if you can afford to purchase a restored DeLorean at this price - or let me know in your message that you're just kicking tires.

I also have a number of new and used parts available which I have listed on the www.dmcnews.com site.

My e-mail is stevepeck1(at)yahoo.com.

Thanks.

-Steve



---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:24:12 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: t liner

i took my t liner off and had it reupulstered
 
cost me $50 bux to do it and the rear panel as well
 
the guy did an EXCELLENT job
 
only thing i screwed up , was leaving a bit of fabric to wrap around and
go under the rubber door seals .. be careful to remember that! :)
 
as for that
 
removing them is an easy job
 
they a just fastened with a small long shaped hooked in the middle of
the panel and the screws under the sun visors.
 
lots of fun to remove the old foam! 
 
Kenneth
05541


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 16:55:27 -0000
From: "davvet2" <davvet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: blown head gasket


> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: paulkane45 [mailto:paulkane45_at_dml_y...]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:27 PM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_y...
> > Subject: [DML] blown head gasket
> > 
> > 
> > I'm looking at a Delorean here in MN and I have a suspicion that 
it 
> > has a blown head gasket. Does anyone here have a quick way i can 
> > check on a D without bringing it to a mechanic?
> > 
There are many ways to check for a blown headgasket, but the most 
fool proof is to have the oil drained; antifreeze will be in the oil. 
Another reason headgaskets blow (besides overheating) is not changing 
the anti-freeze. Antifreeze turns acidic over time and will eat the 
gaskets. A headgasket leak sometimes happens after you change the 
anti-freeze, the new coolant finds the weak gaskets. Replacing the 
gaskets is a pretty big job, if you have it done and the heads are OK 
it's about $1000.00




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:35:30 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: wiring and AC charging

Gary,

You said:
             "In other words, band-aids are unacceptable. I'm amazed at what
D owners live with, I've no interest in owning a maintenance pig that needs
frequent attention."

I have probably done more research on the DeLorean electrical system than
anyone. My R&D Delorean has a completely modified wiring and circuit layout
from the factory original. Yes; I agree that the original electrical system
has many design and component flaws. Over the years all of the established
DeLorean vendors have designed and or sold products that will compensate for
the original factory problems.

Modifying the circuit design including wiring changes to the original set up
is just not practical for the average owner. Most DeLorean owners have
problems finding a place that will change their oil much less finding a
reliable service facility that can modify their electrical system.

The facts are that most owners who have installed the upgrades that are
available from us and the other vendors are able to completely eliminate the
original problems with a modest investment and the convenience of
do-it-yourself installation.

Products like the FanZilla, Tankzilla, Overheat Protector, and others are
not band-aid fixes. They are easy to install, require no maintenance, and do
exactly what they were designed to do.

My colleges and I, in our continuing efforts to improve the DeLorean
mechanical and electrical systems, appreciate your knowledge and input in
finding ways to improve the reliability and serviceability of the DeLorean
automobile.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message -----
Subject: [DML] wiring and AC charging

 The "upgrades" you mention are designed for non technical
> people, hence the plug and play nature of them. Why would anyone with
> the ability to correct the design flaws resort to them?
 and maintained properly.
>
> And why would I install a battery master instead of fixing the system
> so it operates properly? In other words, band-aids are unacceptable.
> I'm amazed at what D owners live with, I've no interest in owning a
> maintenance pig that needs frequent attention. My Toyota Supra
> doesn't have any of these problems and soon this car won't either.



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:04:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Clunk (not TAB or axles)

I've been trying to figure out what my rear clunk sound is ever since I
bought my car. This year, I had the rear axles serviced, complete with new
cv boots and grease. Pushing the axles back and forth makes no clunk. I
also just had the famous Toby Bolts installed. My old TABs weren't bent at
all and actually looked like they were in pretty good shape. The new bolts
put my mind to rest a little better.

But still I have the clunk. It hasn't changed at all over the past 2
years, so although it's not getting worse, none of what I've done has made
it even marginally better.

The way my clunk works is that if turn right twice, I'll only hear it the
first time. Then when I go back to the left it'll come back. This even
happens at extremely slow speeds, usually when the car's weight is shifted
(speed bumps, driveway enterances).

I remember someone mentioning that clunking might be fixed by tightening
body bolts, but was unable to find the message in the archives. Where are
these bolts?

Does anyone else have any suggestions? I'm sure that as common as this
problem is, someone must have an answer. :)

-Christian




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:42:11 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: lifting car

What is the proper way to put the car on a lift? Should it be lifted 
using the four jack points by the wheels? Why are these jack points 
so far from the frame and what makes them strong enough this? 

Thanks,
Adam




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:20:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Cruise control pics up

A couple of months ago there was a discussion on cruise control for the DeLorean... and I promised to upload pics of the Dakota Digital cruise control that is installed in my car. Unfortunately I haven't been home until now to upload the pics (I am a college student). Well, here they are finally on the egroups site- http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Dakota+Cruise+Control+pics&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst%3f.dir=/Dakota%2bCruise%2bControl%2bpics%26.src=gr%26.view=t

The first pic shows the control module for the system, which is mounted to the left of the engine. Notice the cable running out of it... it is routed through the rear fascia area and comes out of it right in front of the throtte spool.

The second picture shows the cable coming out of the rear fascia area, and the home engineering it took to get the cable attached to the throttle spool (notice the bracket).

The final picture shows the controls mounted on the console inside the car. I tried to take a closer picture, but couldn't get my digi cam to focus on the actual controls. Notice there are two switches... the left is for On/Off, the right is for increase/decrease speed.

Though I didn't install the system myself, please let me know if I can be of further help. I have more pics, and can take more by request. Sorry again for taking so long!

Louie Golden
#10115
Sanford, NC

_____________________________________________________________
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_____________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:44:43 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: [ADMIN] List Etiquette

I've noticed an increasing number of people posting somewhat 
anonymously. It makes for a somewhat tighter group if we all get in 
the habit of signing posts, at least with a name rather than some 
anonymous email ID. You'll also find that you are more likely to get 
replies to your posts when you are somewhat "personalized" to the 
group. It makes it easier to meet up at events and put names with 
faces. 

I'm not asking for VINS, a complete list of every car you've ever 
owned, your webpage, your dogs, etc. just something to identify you. 

Another thought - when requesting information on sources for things, 
or trying to sell something, it helps if you state your location. 

Thanks;

Dave Swingle
For the Moderators




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:47:57 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

[moderators note: I think this subject has come pretty close to being beaten to death so with this post I'm ending this subject line. Bruce B. this week's moderator]



When I have a car with a steering wheel that is difficult to remove I 
usually get them off in the following manner;
 Put the steering wheel puller on and tighten up the screw so as to 
put pressure on the wheel, not so tight as to strip out the puller 
bolts,
 Hit the puller screw with a heavy hammer, a couple of quick taps has 
never failed to break the steering wheel loose. I have never seen 
Lock-tite used on the wheel. The problem is the wheel is a taper-fit 
onto the steering shaft and sometimes they can be stubborn getting it 
to come apart. This trick also works on other taper fits like ball 
joints and tie rod ends, the secret there is to have it held securely 
so it can't move when struck with a hammer. I have also seen mechanics 
use an air impact but the thought of stripping threads scares me too 
much to do it that way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Well - sometimes.  After about two hours of using a puller (stripped 
> out the holes!), using a brass punch while pulling on the wheel, and 
> lots of choice swear words, I actually had to drill mine off by 
> drilling along side the steering column enough to get it to let go. 
> (I was replacing it).
> 
> I've heard this story before, as well as "it comes right off". 
> Depends on how much locktite the guy at the factory put on it, or if 
> it has been removed before. The puller bolt holes are small and are 
a 
> very fine metric thread that is difficult to find in a bolt long 
> enough to do the job. 
> 





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:57:42 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: wiring and AC charging

Keep us informed as to your progress in improving the wiring so 
everyone can benefit from your expertise. You are correct that not 
everyone has the level of ability that you do so many of the 
suggestions are at the novice level. On older cars filling the A/C by 
weight isn't the best way because it can't take into account the aging 
of the components in the system. I also am certified in A/C and have 
found the best way is to fill by pressure and output temperature since 
on the Delorean there is no sightglass. This is especially so if the 
system isn't empty and you are just topping off.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Hmmm...I guess we will have to agree to disagree.
> 
> >>Some of the circuits are run pretty near their limits of 
> capacity but the trick is to keep everything clean and tight. Do the 
> relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery master.<<





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:43:54 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Next big job

OK, so I'm just about to start on my next major job on #6463

Air conditioning........ Not just a gas fill but fitting nearly a whole
new/used system.

So far all I seem to have is the compressor, pipes running to the front of
the car and the Evaporator. I have managed to source a condenser and an
accumulator, and would now like to ask the list advise on where to start and
the pitfalls/heads up.

Both the main hoses are good they were checked when the body was off.

Adding on from the advise asked, I cant find anywhere how the condenser fits
in front of the radiator, clues please :-)

This may be the first of a few questions on this, so thanks in advance.

Cheers
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:07:39 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: no start problem

Hi,
    Not sure if this is your problem but it just happened to me today after 
school.  I drove the car for about 15 miles and then shut it off.  When I 
came back, the car would just sputter and not stay running.  I opened up the 
engine compartment to find that one of the fuel injectors popped out of 
place,  I snapped it back into place and the car started right up.  Just 
something to check.

David



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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:48:42 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Clunk (not TAB or axles)

Christian,
You probably have already checked that your jack in the front compartment is
not loose and there are no loose parts in the spare tire well.  Is the
battery tied down.

Just some options.

Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean_at_dml_framezero.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 1:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Clunk (not TAB or axles)


I've been trying to figure out what my rear clunk sound is ever since I
bought my car. This year, I had the rear axles serviced, complete with new
cv boots and grease. Pushing the axles back and forth makes no clunk. I
also just had the famous Toby Bolts installed. My old TABs weren't bent at
all and actually looked like they were in pretty good shape. The new bolts
put my mind to rest a little better.

But still I have the clunk. It hasn't changed at all over the past 2
years, so although it's not getting worse, none of what I've done has made
it even marginally better.


-Christian



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:57:23 EDT
From: Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: fast idle

thanks Robert; the throttle spool seems to be fine. But when I start the car 
it still goes up to 3000 RPM. I assume there must be something in the idle 
control that isn't functioning properly. It worked fine before the tune-up. 
What would make the RPM;s jump to this speed and where do I start to look for 
a way to slow it down. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had problems 
with idle speed, please help!



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:51:14 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: Clutch mstr & slave cylinders info needed

Fellow List Members:

If anyone has step-by-step instructions for replacing the clutch slave and master cylinders, or know where I can get that information, I'd very much appreciate it. You may send it direct to me or to the list.

Joe Thome
VIN 6467 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 23:10:13 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>
Subject: Re: Cruise control pics up

My comp said that the document could not be found.  Are you sure the address
is correct?

-Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louie G" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: [DML] Cruise control pics up


> A couple of months ago there was a discussion on cruise control for the
DeLorean... and I promised to upload pics of the Dakota Digital cruise
control that is installed in my car. Unfortunately I haven't been home until
now to upload the pics (I am a college student). Well, here they are finally
on the egroups site-
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Dakota+Cruise+Control
+pics&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/d
mcnews/lst%3f.dir=/Dakota%2bCruise%2bControl%2bpics%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
> The first pic shows the control module for the system, which is mounted to
the left of the engine. Notice the cable running out of it... it is routed
through the rear fascia area and comes out of it right in front of the
throtte spool.
>
> The second picture shows the cable coming out of the rear fascia area, and
the home engineering it took to get the cable attached to the throttle spool
(notice the bracket).
>
> The final picture shows the controls mounted on the console inside the
car. I tried to take a closer picture, but couldn't get my digi cam to focus
on the actual controls. Notice there are two switches... the left is for
On/Off, the right is for increase/decrease speed.
>
> Though I didn't install the system myself, please let me know if I can be
of further help. I have more pics, and can take more by request. Sorry again
for taking so long!
>
> Louie Golden
> #10115
> Sanford, NC
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order,
call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with
email_at_dml_yourgroup.org by Everyone.net  http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 03:59:03 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Type of fuel to use

The owner's manual for the "American" DMC recommends using 87 Octane fuel.  
The "European" DMC owner's manual recommends a different Octane, as their 
ratings are computed differently "across the pond".  Fill'er up with 87 
Octane, and Drive Stainless.      Robert   VIN 6924



From: "mccarthy410" <mccarthy410_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Type of fuel to use
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:18:21 -0000

Hi,

I am a new prospective owner of a DeLorean, before I buy, I'm
gathering all info I can.  One question comes to mind,  I know the
manual and several sites say to use 91 Octane fuel,  only thing close
to it is 93, and that does get expensive.   Can  87 or 89 Octane be
used with no ill effects? I'm told how the Europeans and how the U.S.
rates gasoline are two different things,  any truth to this?

Thanks.



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