From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1046
Date: Monday, May 27, 2002 8:53 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Horsepower - What a stock DeLorean should be expected to have
From: "Sean Howley" <>

2. rear wheel bearings
From: "john572905" <>

3. Sealing?
From: "mccarthy410" <>

4. Any owners in RDU, NC feel like getting together?
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <>

5. Model Contest Delorean Car Show

6. 2nd call for western US-Memphis caravan
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <>

7. Re graining our car
From: "miami5606" <>

8. Re: idle speed Adjustment

9. Re: Tires.. excitement and worries...

10. Re: a couple of questions

11. Re: Windshield/vent water drain

12. Re: Windshield/vent water drain
From: Dick Ryan <>

13. Re: Sealing?

14. Re: Sealing?
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <>

15. Idle speed problems
From: "checksix3" <>

16. RE: fast idle
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <>

17. Auto trans gov/computer
From: "checksix3" <>

18. Re: rear wheel bearings
From: "dmcman82" <>

19. rear wheel bearing
From: "Walter Coe" <>

20. wheel discoloration

21. Foam under T-panel !
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>

22. DML'er in the news
From: "David Swingle" <>

23. Re: Re graining our car
From: "Walter Coe" <>

24. R-12 warning
From: Travis Graham <>

25. Re: wheel discoloration

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 22:47:42 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <>
Subject: Re: Horsepower - What a stock DeLorean should be expected to have

As far as the 130 SAE HP rating you are speaking of, I can confirm to you
that if you have a stock DeLorean and you get it Dyno checked at the wheels,
you will not see anything higher than about 105 HP.  In fact, if you see a
value this high, I would do another Dyno "pull" to confirm it.  What you
should expect is something in the upper 90's to the low 100's.  As far as
locating the extra 30 horses you might have to upgrade the engine to find
them.  Recently, here in Knoxville, TN we had a ETDOC get together and had
about 6 (or 7) DeLoreans measured on a local Dyno outfit.  Pretty much all
of the cars showed a similar output, but a couple did show a little high and
a little low.  In the group, we had only one auto and it too showed an even
lower value (seems like mid to upper 80's, but I can be wrong here - sorry
Scott if I had this off).  Also, as I recall, there was a similar Dyno
testing day that occurred about 2 years ago in the upper mid west (I think).
They had similar results with their "stock" DeLorean(s).

I hope this helps answer any questions that any of you might have about
where the HP is located and what you should expect it to be.

Sean Howley


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 02:51:22 -0000
From: "john572905" <>
Subject: rear wheel bearings

I there another car that uses the same rear wheel bearings that I 
could get local this weekend. I just want the bearings so I can use 
the car this weekend.


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 03:44:00 -0000
From: "mccarthy410" <>
Subject: Sealing?


I have question for curiousity.  I know some paint their DeLoreans,  
I was wondering, is it possible to put a clear finish on it, like you 
can with wood?  It would same effect of paint,  but without taking 
away the original look of the DeLorean. Is such a thing possible?



Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 01:14:58 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <>
Subject: Any owners in RDU, NC feel like getting together?

Greetings all,
        On Wednesday, 5/29, I am flying into Raleigh-Durham, NC.  I'll be
working at the airport for the remainder of the week and staying at the
Holiday Inn at RDU.  If there are any owners who would like to get together
please drop me an email.  I will be working a typical workday but my nights
will be free and I would like to meet some of the NC owners and enthusiasts.

VIN #16816
VIN #10365


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 04:11:18 EDT
Subject: Model Contest Delorean Car Show

Just a reminder that we will be sponsoring at Memphis the DeLorean Model 
Contest for anyone wanting to modify any DeLorean Model.
prizes will be given for bets modified and best radical modified.
I have heard from a lot of you on what you want to do 
so lets see what you can do 
Maybe we should get Curtis involved.


2 1/2 weeks to Memphis

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 01:27:25 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <>
Subject: 2nd call for western US-Memphis caravan

So who is driving to Memphis from the Southwest?
        I am planning to head out from the Phoenix area early Wednesday
morning and head up 17 to 40 for the straight shot across.  I am looking for
anyone taking 40 across from AZ, CA, NV, NM, TX, or surrounding areas.
Would be nice to meet up with a few owners and drivers.  My car arrives in
AZ sometime around 6/6 and I will not have much time for a shake down.  I'm
heading to Memphis alone so it would be nice to have a few (or more) folks
heading east with me.  Please email me privately if you'd like to meet up
somewhere along the route.  I even have an empty seat going east if you are
up for the trip.

VIN #16816 (en route from NY-AZ)
VIN #10365 (sleeping in NY)



Message: 7
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:44:09 -0000
From: "miami5606" <>
Subject: Re graining our car

Has anyone Re grain there car I have read of people using 80 grit 
sand paper.
I my self have cleaned my car with a 3M sanding like sponge that you 
would find in Walmart medium to corse and it does bring a great glow 
to it.
But I find it hard to run the sponge correctly along the fenders to 
give it a correct grain look.
Has anyone master this technic.
Any suggestion would be appriciated.
I have also read about a sanding disk made of made of some sort of 
fiber brizzles bought at our local Lowes lumber store, Any one use 
this technic.
Thanks Hugo
Vin 2800


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:37:21 EDT
Subject: Re: idle speed Adjustment

Group, This is what I do.
Most of the time what I see is wrong with fast Idle is the adjustments. You 
must make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. 
#1. As David mentioned earlier, the air horn gaskets. Very often these are 
not replaced. 
#2. The idle speed motor tube into the lower parts of the air flow meter 
isn't sealed properly. 
Once the vacuum leaks are stabilized, the adjustment arm under the cable 
spindle must be properly adjusted as to allow the throttle plate lever to go 
all the way down. You may have to remove the Air horn to verify this or just 
unhook the arm and see where the lever rest at. Make sure the lower 
adjustment screw isn't keeping the lever from going all the way down. One you 
have determined the throttle body lever is all the way down and the arm is 
off, then turn the lower adjustment screw about 1/4 turn clock to get it 
right off the bottom. (Rest Screw). Now adjust the upper screw in or turn 
clock to trip the micro switch about 30 thousands. This can be the starting 
point. Reattach the lower arm and make sure you adjust it as to allow the 
lever to stay in the rest position. You may also have to adjust out any slack 
to looseness on the ball connection on the lever. I took mine off and 
soldered the ball joint because it had become so loose I couldn't get my idle 
to stabilize. Also refer to D:05:02 in the work shop manual for the 
thermistor and ECU info.
John Hervey


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:40:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Tires.. excitement and worries...

Adam, Wheels should torque at 60 lb's. You may need to loosen them now in 
fear of them being harder to come off later.
John Hervey


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:50:55 EDT
Subject: Re: a couple of questions

Andrew, The most common problem that will run the battery down is the door 
switches. This subject has come up many times, You might want to look in the 
archives for all the answers. 
One thing you can do to insure the problem doesn't happen again is put on a 
battery cut off switch. After all the answers, most resort it the cut off 
The other thing you may want to do is make sure the battery is fully charged. 
If it runs down, for what ever reason, allow a battery charger to fully 
charge the battery over night. I have a small 6 amp that does a great job. I 
also have the larger types to for the shop but you have to allow the battery 
to charge fully. If you don't do this, then you will put a major strain on 
the alternator.
John Hervey


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:18:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Windshield/vent water drain

In a message dated 5/26/02 9:05:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 

> My question is, what's the best way to divert the drain water so it doesn't
> pour right down onto the fuel pump? From there the water runs back and 
> pools
> inside the frame. When I put the front of the car on the ramps, water ran
> out of the lower cover plate on the bottom of the frame.
> Ken


check the parts manual.  you should have a rubber boot that goes over the 
fuel pump with two tight holes for your fuel lines to go thru the top.  it is 
secured around the lower boot that supports the pump with a giant hose clamp. 
 if you have one in good condition, with all the parts, this should keep the 
pump dry.  i bet you are missing some parts!

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:49:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <>
Subject: Re: Windshield/vent water drain

Ken & others

I have also experienced the passenger footwell
swimming pool.  In both cases, the drain directly
below the "windshield grill" was plugged.  Once it was
from leaves and once from a large bolt that had
somehow gotten in there and acted as a collector for
grass, leaves, etc.

If anyone drives their car much, as I do, and if it
often sits outside, uncovered, this is a item of
periodic maintenance.  Once the drain is plugged, the
water comes over the protective baffle and into
passenger comparment. 

Dick Ryan 

--- "Montgomery, Ken" <> wrote:
>    Last week I attended a car show. A storm came in
> and it turned into a
> downpour. This was actually the first time I've had
> my car out in a full
> rainstorm. By the time I got home I had 2 inches of
> water in the passenger
> footwell. I took everything apart, dried the water
> and started digging to
> see why this happened. I discovered the last shop
> who worked on the fuel
> system stuffed a chunk of foam in the drain above
> the fuel pump!
> My question is, what's the best way to divert the
> drain water so it doesn't
> pour right down onto the fuel pump? From there the
> water runs back and pools
> inside the frame. When I put the front of the car on
> the ramps, water ran
> out of the lower cover plate on the bottom of the
> frame.
> Ken
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:26:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Sealing?

In a message dated 5/27/02 7:12:07 AM Central Daylight Time, writes:

> Hi,
> I have question for curiousity.  I know some paint their DeLoreans,  
> I was wondering, is it possible to put a clear finish on it, like you 
> can with wood?  It would same effect of paint,  but without taking 
> away the original look of the DeLorean. Is such a thing possible?
> Thanks

I don't know for sure, but i think i know what you are talking about.  i 
wouldn't do it because it probably would look very bad compared how the car 
looks originally.  think about it - it would have a grain yet when you touch 
it, it would feel smooth - it would be as terrible as that interior 
'woodgrain' plastic trim you can buy at walmart!!  

if you want to change the color of your car, i would suggest either getting 
it painted and clearcoated by a very reputable shop that knows what they are 
doing and have hopefully done one before, OR the ultimate - anodizing.  
anodizing would be the best because the car would still have a grain only it 
would be another color. in fact you could still use a scothbrite pad to take 
out scratches and it would still be whatever color you wanted.  i have never 
seen a D like this before, but i met a guy who has a friend in the michigan 
area who took all of this body panels off and had them anodized red - that 
way even the insides of the door and the door jams are colored.  this would 
be sweet..... but i guess it was very $$$$

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:09:03 -0500
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <>
Subject: Re: Sealing?

Just the clearcoat component of a BC/CC could be used, it would be a
nightmare to get to stick well, and would be SO thick to get a smooth coat
over the brushed stainless. delamination would be a problem, not to mention
yellowing. I seem to recall seeing one that had a candy coat (red) over the
stainless... it looked horrid.

besides, why take the low maintenance stainless, and put a high maintain
coating over it?

----- Original Message -----
From: "mccarthy410" <>
To: <>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 22:44
Subject: [DML] Sealing?

> Hi,
> I have question for curiousity.  I know some paint their DeLoreans,
> I was wondering, is it possible to put a clear finish on it, like you
> can with wood?  It would same effect of paint,  but without taking
> away the original look of the DeLorean. Is such a thing possible?
> Thanks
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:36:03 -0000
From: "checksix3" <>
Subject: Idle speed problems

Did you get this solved? Shouldn't be too difficult, its likely 
mechanical binding, misadjustment, or electronic. 
One at a time:
>>>>i adjusted the spring on the throttle one more notch.  it's 
pretty tight now (i think mine was already adjusted forward).  i also 
adjusted the throttle linkage.  right now it is all set up so that if 
i have the pedal to the floor, the throttle hits the full throttle 
switch, and when i let the pedal all the way back down, it is pushing 
on the idle speed switch w/o any additional play on the switch.<<<
Be sure that when it hits the idle switch the throttle plates are 
completely closed. Adjust that *first*, then set the idle switch. 
When you are done, be asolutely sure there is no mechanical binding 
in the system.
>>  when i have a screwdriver pushed down on the idle speed switch, 
my idle screw is adjusted so that i am running at about 800 rpm or 
so.  STILL, when i put my foot on the gas and let the pedal back 
down, the idle doesn't kick down!!!  it sits at about 1200 RPM.  
however if the car is at say a stop sign, i can hit the gas with my 
foot on the clutch and let it drop down fast, and THEN it will kick 
down.  i can't find any mechanical reason why is should be like 
this.  i would think the switch doesn't care if it is tripped hard or 
softly - it is still being tripped.<<<
It doesn't care if tripped hard or softly, its just a contact 
closure. After being sure the throttle plates are closed (using the 
other adjustment screw nearby), set the idle switch screw to depress 
the idle switch only enough to close it. You should still be able to 
reach in there and push it more after it clicks. You don't want it 
to "bottom" out, ony actuate. Bottoming it out will stress the 
actuator attachment point. (Air cleaner is off to do this.) From what 
you're saying, it appears your ISC systems is working and you have 
binding or other issues. 

>>>1.  how far into the idle speed switch is too much?  should the 
screw be pushing on the switch all of the way, medium, or just enough 
to take the tab off the switch?<<<
see above, just enough to close the switch.

>>>2.  basically every adjustment you make throws something else 
off.  how do i set up the linkage so that when the pedal is fully 
depressed i know that the throttle butterflies are wide open?<<<
Your problem is idle. We can worry about making full throttle and the 
WOT enrichment switch after you fix the idle. Forget about it at this 
point. (The WOT switch is not connected to the ISC system.)
>>>3.  the shop manual says that the idle ECU recieves a ground when 
the butterflies are fully closed.  if my butterflies are off, perhaps 
my ECU isn't recieving a ground all of the time unless i let the gas 
off quickly, maybe hitting the butterflies hard and making it all 
work? just a theory.  how do i test it?<<< 4.  how do i know if my 
idle speed motor is working?  under which conditions  should which 
things happen.  i'm not proficient with a DVOM so if anyone has 
any ideas, they will have to tell me how to hook everything up.<<<<

The idle switch basically "wakes up" the idle ECU by powering it.
The ECU has no ground point other than the switch, so its dead until 
the switch is made. Can you use an ohm meter to measure the switch 
closing? You can also use a voltmeter and it would be easier if you 
knew how to do this. If not, here are two ways to test most of the 
ISC system:
1) when the car is warm and idling, disconncet the idle switch. The 
idle should increase. 2) With the car idling, grasp the throttle 
spool and increase throttle only enough to lift off the idle switch 
tab. Holding this position (about 1000-1200 RPM), use a screwedriver 
to depress the idle switch actuator tab back down. Idle should 
decrease. If either of these happens, its pretty much working.

>>>is there something else i'm missing? i'm inclined to believe my 
butterflies are part of the problem.  i really need someone to guide 
me through complete adjustment of the throttle system.<<<
What you want is this: 1) throttle plates fuly closed. 2) Idle 
switch "made" just enough to close it. The throttle stop screw is on 
the plate, the idle switch screw is just depressing the switch tab 
enough to actuate it. 3) No mechanical binding. Look inside the 
throttle spool. The spring bends around the center pivot post. It 
must not touch the post, only curve around it. If it touches, unhook 
it and bend it so that is does not touch the center post. If the idle 
switch is made everytime you you release the throttle, you have no 
binding and this is not your problem.

To set it up from scratch: 

1)Loosen both lock nuts on the throttle stop screw and the idle speed 
switch screw and back the screws way off.
2) Disconnect the throttle linkage and allow the throttle plates to 
close. Maybe disconnect the accel cable also.
3) To be sure they are closed, gently push on the ball attached to 
the throttle plate linkage. You should see no more movement. If you 
want to know for sure, you'll have to remove the pipe and eyeball 
4)  Make sure the throttle spool is all the way back. Have some 
slight slack in the cable. Make sure everything is all the way back 
and nothing (throttle screw, idle screw,  auto trans cable, 
accelerator cable, etc) is holding the throttle plates open. Be sure 
the entire thing is at "rest".  Check for binding in the throttle 
plates *and* the cables, spool, etc. Now is a good time to check for 
binding because you have the linkage connecting the two seperated. If 
all is OK, sdjust throttle linkage to fit and install it.
 5) Turn throttle stop screw in until it just contacts the stop 
plate. Watch it closely until it *just* starts to move the linkage. 
(starts to open the throttle plates) Lock it in this position.
6) Adjust the idle speed switch screw to just actuate the switch. 
(not touch it, but actuate it). Lock it in this position. Slightly 
open the trottle by grasping the spool. Make sure the idle switch 
clicks open. Release the spool and makes sure it clicks closed. Put 
an ohm meter on the switch (after disconnecting the wires if you 
wish, or at the ECU connector) to be sure it is opening and closing.
The throttle stop screw should contact the plate just after the idle 
switch closes (or almost at the same time) with the throttle plates 
closed. Bascially, the throttles and idle switch should be closed 
with their stop screws taking the "load" so they are not forced 
further closed by the linkage.
You likely have either binding or electrical problems. I'm betting 
binding. Look inside at the spool return spring, I've seen that cause 
binding before. 
Want to remove the idle speed function for testing purposes?
You need to "break open" the feedback closed loop and go to manual 
idle. (No need to do this if the ISC system test I mentioned above 
checks out.)
1) Either unplug the idle speed motor, one wire off the switch or 
unplug the idle speed module behind the drivers seat.
This will "fix" the ISC valve at whatever position it happens to be 
in. (Its a rotary valve, kinda like a stepping motor.)
2) Remove the idle speed valve and plug both hoses or leave it 
installed and pinch off or plugged the hose that leaves the idle 
speed valve and goes to the manifold. Either hose will do, the one 
towards the rear of the car is easier to get at. (Best to remove the 
motor and plug both of them, pinching hoses is for Neanderthals.)
3) Open the idle adjustment screw on the manifold a few turns and 
start the car. Make sure you're adjusting the idle speed and not the 
air balance screws. See your manual. Warm the car up and set the idle 
to about 800 to 1000 rpm. Doesn't matter, this is for testing.
You now control the idle using only this screw to let air into the 
manifold. You now have "open loop" idle control. Manipulate the 
throttle. If the idle consistantly recovers to *about* what you set 
it at, then the problem is in the idle speed system (motor, switch, 
ECU or wiring) If it *still* is not repeatable, check for binding or 
problems in the linkages or cable. (If you have an auto transmision, 
don't forget the govenor cable.) I suspect a throttle spool spring 
touching the center post as described above. If it is touching, 
correct that and put the spring back from the one notch you moved it.
Also lubricate the spool while you're in there.

Electrical problems could be as follows:

1) Bad ECU 
2) Bad wiring
3) Bad idle switch
4) Bad cold idle thermistor.

There is a thermistor that monitors the coolant temp. It results in a
fast idle when the engine is cold (below 59F, as I recall). Btw, I 
manipulate this circuit to idle up my car when the AC, headlights, or 
fans are on. I have an adjustable pot so I can select the high idle, 
it doesn't effect the cold idle setting.

This thermistor could be bad, but I doubt it. Other items to check are
CO adjustment (is the plug there?), idle and air balance screws (all 
three should be closed) and binding in the air balance plate or 
control plunger. With the car off, remove the air filter housing and 
gently push down on the plate and see if it returns to the same 
position. You will lose your fuel system resting pressure and flood 
the engine some (may be hard to start immediately thereafter) so 
don't do this too many times. (I doubt this is the problem however.) 
Does the idle hunt when cold? This common problem is most often 
caused by slight misadjustment of the CO setting.

You could have some weird problem, such as a funny tach signal. (Its 
the "process variable" in the ISC system, what you're actually trying 
to control) but I doubt it. At anyrate, its always best to open any 
feedback loop to troubleshoot it.

Some time spent with an ohm meter/voltmeter at the ECU connector will 
tell you if the sensors and wiring are OK. Let me know and I'll walk 
you through it. Opening the idle speed feedback loop will tell you 
alot, its difficult to troubleshoot closed loop systems as, if not 
set up correctly, they tend to oscillate as they chase the setpoint.

All this should reveal the source of the problem and you can go from 
there. After you get this figured out you can check the WOT 
enrichment and auto trans kickdown (if you have one) switch settings. 
Let me know and I'll offer more help if needed.
Good luck,


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:18:53 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <>
Subject: RE: fast idle

Since the DeLorean I've had for the last 12 years is Chevy powered, I haven't had the fun of trying to figure out PRV fast idle problems for a while.  But having recently picked up another DeLorean and replacing the water pump on it, I may have stumbled on something many of you already know.   On the WP end of the small hose that goes to the RH head, if you put the hose clamp screw at the top the throttle linkage may rub on it.  I wondered why it wouldn't idle down every time until I spotted that.  After spinning the clamp down, no more problem.  I also learned to be more observant of the position of the hose clamp on the LH main hose - what looked like a convenient position became unreachable once the intake plenum pipe was replaced.

I would insert my standard claim here about how much simpler the Chevy motor is to work on, except that it is currently spread out on the shop floor with two broken pistons.  Between the supercharger and my right foot, I think I will invest in forged pistons this time....

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:48:09 -0000
From: "checksix3" <>
Subject: Auto trans gov/computer

Any one have a disfunctional one they want to unload?

I want to look into a redesign on this thing and need one to play 
with. Anyone have a schematic of it?


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:56:59 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <>
Subject: Re: rear wheel bearings

I don't know what car it's from but the part number is 513106 and 
it's made by BCA (Federal-Mogul). You may have a hard time finding 
them and chances are the local shop may even have to order them too.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "john572905" <jrc2905_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I there another car that uses the same rear wheel bearings that I 
> could get local this weekend. I just want the bearings so I can 
> the car this weekend.
> John


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:24:37 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: rear wheel bearing


Has anyone published instructions for replacing the rear wheel bearings?
Memphis is coming up, and I need this job done before the trip.  Is there a
special press to buy?  Who sells it?  What model is it?

John Cabral just asked a similar question... but no answers yet.  Anyone?

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 14:44:04 EDT
Subject: wheel discoloration

Hey all,

my wheels have been powdercoated chrome (i still don't really know what that 
means) and the last couple of washes i started using a different wheel 
cleaner.  i used to use Eagle-1 A-Z All wheel cleaner but this time i thought 
i would try Eagle-1 Chrome and Wire Wheel cleaner.  it may be just my 
imagination but it seems like it is turning my wheels grayer!!  has anyone 
else experience this phenomenon or am i delusional?

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:53:23 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>
Subject: Foam under T-panel !

Ok, so what is the recommended foam to use when aligning the T-panel with the doors?
The old foam strips are now "dust", so I'd like to know what people use as replacement foam.
Please be as specific as you can, since I want a reliable foam that will last another 20 years...

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland

VIN # 06759

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:34:47 -0500
From: "David Swingle" <>
Subject: DML'er in the news

In many areas of the country, local newspapers use an insert produced by
USA-Today as their Sunday magazine. Yesterday's issue containted a section
on the future of Automotive electronics, and that contained a quote by one
of our list-members, Pete Lucas, discussing the electronic systems installed
in his DeLorean. Pete has also contributed to the DMCNews Website with
several technical articles. Congratulations to Pete!

See the article

Dave Swingle


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:08:16 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: Re graining our car

To get the correct texture, I have found that anything finer than 80 grit
sandpaper is a waste of time -- it polishes instead of textures.  Once the
grain is set proper then a coarse Scotch-Bite pad will mellow it to the OEM

From experience, I have found that long smooth strokes are bad -- very bad.
What happens is if you get the slightest bit crooked then you get long
crooked deep scratches.  The secret to an OEM finish is to use very short
strokes.  Another lesson I've learned from experience is to not use a "touch
& to" technique.  (This is how a pilot lands the plane & takes off again
without stopping.)  If you do this with your sandpaper, then you end up with
J-shaped scratches.  So... in order to refinish a small area by hand, put
the 80 grit paper on a sanding block (preferably one used for automotive
use.  They are rubber & conform to the panel's contour unlike a wood block.)
Carefully place the pad on the panel without shifting it.  Then press hard
and quickly lift off.  This will produce very short scratches which best
emulate the OEM finish put on using a flapper wheel.

For large areas, I have had great success using a belt sander, BUT -- DON'T
problem with belt sanders is the backing to the paper is hard and
unforgiving.  It will put an uneven deep gouge pattern in the metal.
Instead place a small sponge behind the platen (the thin piece of sheet
metal that backs the sandpaper).  This will create a raised area on the belt
sander's working surface, and this is the only part of it you want touching
the car.  This works great for broad flat areas but will not get near curves
such as the fender flairs.  It produces a pattern of short straight
scratches that looks just like the OEM finish from a flapper wheel.

The last time I was at NAPA, I saw on the shelf a small 80 grit flapper
wheel made to fit a power drill.  This was around 1.5 to 2" diameter.  I'm
tempted to try it in the "hard to reach" areas.

Or you can just spend the bucks and buy a really flapper wheel (if you can
find one).

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:34:29 -0500
From: Travis Graham <>
Subject: R-12 warning

Just a warning to all of you out there... I had my A/C recharged 
recently.  I first tried the place that I have gone to for years for my 
R-12 work.  The guy inside said "R-12?  Sure", then when another fellow 
came out carrying a small device I asked him if it was pure, 100% R-12.  
Negative, it was something he called "F-12" (80% R-134a and 20% R-12)!  
They had recently stopped carrying R-12 entirely!  What made me mad was 
the fact that they lied to me about having R-12.  I found it elsewhere, 
so now everything is well.

The moral of the story is, if you're like me and aren't ready to roll 
the dice with a conversion, then make absolutely sure you're getting 
R-12 before they put anything in.  As the archives will tell, people 
have had mixed results with conversions, but that's another topic.

And another warning for Memphis goers: it's turned quite hot (and very 
very HUMID) here in TN, so you may want to make sure your A/C (and 
run-off tube) are all in good shape before the show.

Travis Graham


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 16:58:39 -0400
Subject: Re: wheel discoloration


  The guy who did the wheels from me said to use mild dish soap to clean the wheels and use a spray wax to protect them. I would not continue to use any harsh wheel cleaner or you may ruin them.



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