From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1047
Date: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 2:45 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Sealing?
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

2. Roommate in Memphis
From: "Jeremy D." <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>

3. Idle Switch - Somthing to try
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

4. Re: rear wheel bearing
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: rear wheel bearing
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Re graining our car
From: hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Sealing? (clear coat over stainless)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

8. Re: Re graining our car
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12_at_dml_mlecmn.net>

9. RE; Auto trans gov/computer *** The Rich'O'Shift is comming ***
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>

10. Re: Re graining our car
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

11. Re: wheel discoloration
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

12. ZF Transmission Mis-information
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Back-up Lights
From: "Jeremy D." <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>

14. Re: 2nd call for western US-Memphis caravan (I-40 re-route)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

15. A funny thing about parking...
From: "evm2k" <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Power Steering
From: "evm2k" <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. various
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:13:49 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Sealing?

The BTTF car in the Crawford Auto Aviation Museum (during DeLorean Car
Show 2000) was clearcoated.  It was definitely not as nice as plain
stainless.  There were come hazy and yellowed areas. 

Thanks to the owners of the following sites, check out:
http://www.deloreanonline.com/crawford.html
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/montkw/delorean/Cleveland/cleveland.htm

Gary
IN2TIME






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:19:49 -0400
From: "Jeremy D." <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Roommate in Memphis

Ill try one more time. Im looking to split a room in Memphis.
I have a room reserved at the Radison, but if you already have one
I can can cancel my reservations. Hope to here from someone soon.
thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net

Thanks,
-Jeremy





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:48:12 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Idle Switch - Somthing to try

For anybody having the problem of thier idle switch not working unless 
letting off the throttle really fast, I have a simple procedure you 
can try.  I stumbled upon this accidentally when I was installing a 
self bleeder, and the same process worked on another person's car I 
worked on at the Chicago tech session.

What you can try doing, is loosen the 3 bolts holding down the 
throttle spool.  Pull it twords the back of the car as far as you can, 
you may even want to use a screwdriver or similar to get it as far 
back as possible.  Tighten it back down and go for a drive.

The extra tension that occurs with this should overcome the slight 
stick that happens in the spool.  Still not sure myself what causes 
it, as I've seen it on many cars.  But hopefully this should help fix 
it.  Of course, you should make sure the two throttle stop screws are 
proporly adjusted and there is nothing obstructing the linkage.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 00:39:03 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: rear wheel bearing

I am in the process of changing my rear bearings and all i can tell 
you is that it is not easy. Don't buy a press unless you fell like 
shelling out $300+ for a press. Visit your local auto repair shop 
and throw a couple of bucks to the mechaninc and have them press the 
axle out. Next thing, if they don't get the bearings out or the 
bearing sleave you'll need a slide hammer. After removing it you'll 
need a few thing to install the new bearing safely without damaging 
it. Get to size pipes/pipe fittings. One should be the size of the 
bearing sleeve (this is what you will use to drive the bearing in. 
It has to be big enough to sit on the outer edge of bearing sleeve 
but small enough to fit in the hub carrier. The next one should be 
large enough to fit on the inner part of the bearing (where the 
drive shaft goes into) and have a hole large enough for the drive 
axle to slide into. Once you have those things do the following: 1) 
use the larger pipe/pipe fitting to drive the bearing into the hub 
carrier by gently tapping the center of the pipe fitting with
a hammer until it seats. 2) turn the hub carrier over and and rest 
the hub carrier on the smaller fitting so that the inner part of the 
bearing rests on the fitting. This will keep the bearing in while 
you press/tap the axle in. Without doing that the inner part of the 
bearing along with all the bearings will be on the floor.

Those are some basics.

Steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Help!
> 
> Has anyone published instructions for replacing the rear wheel 
bearings?
> Memphis is coming up, and I need this job done before the trip.  
Is there a
> special press to buy?  Who sells it?  What model is it?
> 
> John Cabral just asked a similar question... but no answers yet.  
Anyone?
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 00:52:48 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: rear wheel bearing

Is it possible to press the axle out and remove the old bearing without
taking the hub carrier off the car?  I'm not excited about compressing the
rear springs again.  I've done this twice per side already.

I'm wondering now if bad wheel bearings is the reason for my weird rear
camber, brake runout and clunk on turns.  My only audible symptoms are a
howling noise in the right rear at 45mph.  If I shift into neutral, or
change speeds then it stops.  When I did my brakes, the left bearing had a
slight gravel sound, but it went away with weight on the axle.  I was hoping
that it was just the nature of the beast.

Walt




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re graining our car

Thanks WAlter for the detail discription of your
technic.
On the sand paper technic. You say you do small areas
at a time do you go back and forthabout four or more
strokes, or is it one swipe of it in each area?

I'll practice it at work tomorow on a scrap piece of
metal.

How long do you think it will take to do a whole car?
The fender flares and the window post are the hardest
parts.
Thanks Agin. Walter for taking the time.

Hugo Vin 2800



--- Walter Coe <Whalt_at_dml_att.net> wrote:
> To get the correct texture, I have found that
> anything finer than 80 grit
> sandpaper is a waste of time -- it polishes instead
> of textures.  Once the
> grain is set proper then a coarse Scotch-Bite pad
> will mellow it to the OEM
> finish.
> 
> From experience, I have found that long smooth
> strokes are bad -- very bad.
> What happens is if you get the slightest bit crooked
> then you get long
> crooked deep scratches.  The secret to an OEM finish
> is to use very short
> strokes.  Another lesson I've learned from
> experience is to not use a "touch
> & to" technique.  (This is how a pilot lands the
> plane & takes off again
> without stopping.)  If you do this with your
> sandpaper, then you end up with
> J-shaped scratches.  So... in order to refinish a
> small area by hand, put
> the 80 grit paper on a sanding block (preferably one
> used for automotive
> use.  They are rubber & conform to the panel's
> contour unlike a wood block.)
> Carefully place the pad on the panel without
> shifting it.  Then press hard
> and quickly lift off.  This will produce very short
> scratches which best
> emulate the OEM finish put on using a flapper wheel.
> 
> For large areas, I have had great success using a
> belt sander, BUT -- DON'T
> TRY THIS WITHOUT FIRST PRACTICING ON A SCRAP PIECE
> OF SHEET METAL.  The
> problem with belt sanders is the backing to the
> paper is hard and
> unforgiving.  It will put an uneven deep gouge
> pattern in the metal.
> Instead place a small sponge behind the platen (the
> thin piece of sheet
> metal that backs the sandpaper).  This will create a
> raised area on the belt
> sander's working surface, and this is the only part
> of it you want touching
> the car.  This works great for broad flat areas but
> will not get near curves
> such as the fender flairs.  It produces a pattern of
> short straight
> scratches that looks just like the OEM finish from a
> flapper wheel.
> 
> The last time I was at NAPA, I saw on the shelf a
> small 80 grit flapper
> wheel made to fit a power drill.  This was around
> 1.5 to 2" diameter.  I'm
> tempted to try it in the "hard to reach" areas.
> 
> Or you can just spend the bucks and buy a really
> flapper wheel (if you can
> find one).
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:36:58 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Sealing? (clear coat over stainless)

Bob Brandy's is the guy to talk to about clear coats on stainless.
He had his 97 Time Machine Delorean clear coated.

In case you want an up close look and feel of clear coated stainless,
I do have a "test panel" that Bob used prior to coating his car.
The panel is a slightly damaged roof T-panel.  If there is interest,
I can bring the panel to Memphis.  Bob will have his car there too.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_I...> wrote:
> The BTTF car in the Crawford Auto Aviation Museum (during DeLorean 
Car
> Show 2000) was clearcoated.  




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 00:37:26 -0500
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12_at_dml_mlecmn.net>
Subject: Re: Re graining our car

Plumbing shops are best place to get a flap wheel... not the "home depot"
kind, but a "real" commercial plumbing shop.

Keep the RPM on your tool low, or you will have a real mess on your hands.

 best advice ever...

DON'T
> TRY THIS WITHOUT FIRST PRACTICING ON A SCRAP PIECE OF SHEET METAL.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:08
Subject: Re: [DML] Re graining our car


> To get the correct texture, I have found that anything finer than 80 grit
> sandpaper is a waste of time -- it polishes instead of textures.  Once the
> grain is set proper then a coarse Scotch-Bite pad will mellow it to the
OEM
> finish.
>
> >From experience, I have found that long smooth strokes are bad -- very
bad.
> What happens is if you get the slightest bit crooked then you get long
> crooked deep scratches.  The secret to an OEM finish is to use very short
> strokes.  Another lesson I've learned from experience is to not use a
"touch
> & to" technique.  (This is how a pilot lands the plane & takes off again
> without stopping.)  If you do this with your sandpaper, then you end up
with
> J-shaped scratches.  So... in order to refinish a small area by hand, put
> the 80 grit paper on a sanding block (preferably one used for automotive
> use.  They are rubber & conform to the panel's contour unlike a wood
block.)
> Carefully place the pad on the panel without shifting it.  Then press hard
> and quickly lift off.  This will produce very short scratches which best
> emulate the OEM finish put on using a flapper wheel.
>
> For large areas, I have had great success using a belt sander, BUT --
DON'T
> TRY THIS WITHOUT FIRST PRACTICING ON A SCRAP PIECE OF SHEET METAL.  The
> problem with belt sanders is the backing to the paper is hard and
> unforgiving.  It will put an uneven deep gouge pattern in the metal.
> Instead place a small sponge behind the platen (the thin piece of sheet
> metal that backs the sandpaper).  This will create a raised area on the
belt
> sander's working surface, and this is the only part of it you want
touching
> the car.  This works great for broad flat areas but will not get near
curves
> such as the fender flairs.  It produces a pattern of short straight
> scratches that looks just like the OEM finish from a flapper wheel.
>
> The last time I was at NAPA, I saw on the shelf a small 80 grit flapper
> wheel made to fit a power drill.  This was around 1.5 to 2" diameter.  I'm
> tempted to try it in the "hard to reach" areas.
>
> Or you can just spend the bucks and buy a really flapper wheel (if you can
> find one).
>
> Walt    Tampa, FL
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:30:46 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: RE; Auto trans gov/computer *** The Rich'O'Shift is comming ***

I know that a certain person in the UK is in the final stages of 
developing a new GC unit which he is hopefully going to have ready 
for the Memphis show. I am in need of a new GC as well but I have 
seen his work before and he knows his stuff.

I have cunningly code named it the Rich'O'Shift though I very much 
doubt this name will catch on :-)

I would much rather have a new beefed up version at a better price 
than buy OEM which could suffer the same fate.

I know that for now he is making it so it will fit in the same 
location as the original and work in the same way with a much 
greater resistance to voltage spikes and temperature fluctuations

I also heard him muttering about the possibility of a sports mode 
button which would change the shift pattern like in a modern day 
automatic, and even tip-tronic controls to shift from the steering 
wheel. 





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:20:37 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re graining our car

I regrained a black Imron painted D.  Of course the body shop had cross 
sanded the grain.  We started with 35 grit to get the pattern back. The 
finished with 80 grit.

BOB

miami5606 wrote:

>Has anyone Re grain there car I have read of people using 80 grit 
>sand paper.
>I my self have cleaned my car with a 3M sanding like sponge that you 
>would find in Walmart medium to corse and it does bring a great glow 
>to it.
>But I find it hard to run the sponge correctly along the fenders to 
>give it a correct grain look.
>Has anyone master this technic.
>Any suggestion would be appriciated.
>I have also read about a sanding disk made of made of some sort of 
>fiber brizzles bought at our local Lowes lumber store, Any one use 
>this technic.
>Thanks Hugo
>Vin 2800
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:19:13 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: wheel discoloration

Mag and wire wheel cleaners can contain phosphoric or other stronger 
acids.  This can damage the clear coat powder coated materials.  The 
gloss finish is etched.  

Bob






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 03:43:53 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: ZF Transmission Mis-information

Hello list,

Recently I experienced a transmission failure, and did a little 
research on the internet. A few Delorean websites claim that ZF 
produced the automatic transmissions for our cars. Several weeks 
after contacting ZF, I received this reply.

"Thanks again you for your interest in ZF Industries, Inc., 
especially in the transmission service department.

I contacted everyone who may be/has been involved with this type of
transmission at our factory in Germany. We have also researched this
transmission on the Internet as well as with some outside sources 
that we have regular dealings with. The end result is that this 
transmission is not and was never produced by any ZF location. The 
transmission was produced by Renault, not by ZF as is stated on some 
of the web-sites. ZF has never produced a transmission that was to be 
used in a DeLorean. Regretfully, there is no assistance that we can 
offer to help you with your transmission.

ZF Industries, Inc. has a network of independent distributors 
throughout North America. They offer the wide variety of spare parts 
for all ZF passenger car transmission applications. They also can 
assist you with all technical inquiries and some companies (marked) 
are rebuilding transmissions with ZF original spare parts."

So there you have it. Just an interesting "FYI".

Nick
VIN 3092...out of service due to transmission problems.





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 02:21:26 -0400
From: "Jeremy D." <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Back-up Lights

I just finished going through my tail light assembly (Cleaning contacts 
tightening screws etc).
I finally have all my brake lights/turn signals functioning but now my 
back-up lights dont work.
They functioned on and off before, but now no matter how I jiggle the 
shifter I cant get them
to come on. Any suggestions appreciated.

-Jeremy
10842





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:16:05 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: 2nd call for western US-Memphis caravan (I-40 re-route)

Matthew and List,

Just a reminder, in case you missed the news this weekend, there is a
bridge collapse on I-40 in OK, due to a barge accident.  Traffic is
being re-routed on secondary roads, but the recent reports suggest to
avoid the area if at all possible.  The extent of the damage may have
this stretch of road shut down for months, a year or longer, once the
final assessment is made.  Start looking for alternate routes now.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> So who is driving to Memphis from the Southwest?
>         I am planning to head out from the Phoenix area early 
Wednesday
> morning and head up 17 to 40 for the straight shot across.  I am 
looking for
> anyone taking 40 across from AZ, CA, NV, NM, TX, or surrounding 
areas.





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:03:31 -0000
From: "evm2k" <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A funny thing about parking...

To all:

Yesterday, there was an Arts & Wind Festival in San Ramon, Ca.  My 
wife and I just wanted to see some of the events and then go shopping 
at the local store for groceries.  Just getting there was a pain.  
Cars everywhere!!!  No parking anywhere!!!  As we were searching 
around for a parking space, a couple ran up to us and yelled 
out, "WHAT A COOL CAR!!!  Let's make a deal.  I'll give you my 
parking space if you let me look inside your car."

Can't go wrong with that deal.  We spent about 10 minutes just 
talking about the car itself.  So if ever you plan to go to a popular 
event and parking might be problem, bring the Delorean and just smile 
and wave at everyone.  You'll be guaranteed a parking spot without 
even asking.

Richard




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:09:32 -0000
From: "evm2k" <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Power Steering

Has anyone ever put power steering in their Delorean?  If so, what 
car did you get the parts from and how hard was it to install.  I 
heard that Toyota makes power steering for their MR2 and uses an 
electric power steering pump in the trunk instead of using a belt 
driven pump in the engine. 

I know, I know it gets the car away from the original but HEY!!!  SO 
I'M SPOILED!!!



Richard




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:46:18 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: various

>>>if you want to change the color of your car, i would suggest 
either getting it painted and clearcoated by a very reputable shop 
that knows what they are doing and have hopefully done one before, OR 
the ultimate - anodizing. <<<

I doubt one can anodize stainless. Only certain metals can be 
anodized. Anodization requires an oxide layer that naturally forms on 
metals like aluminum and the corrosion resistant properties of 304 
are the very thing that wouldn't permit anodization.

>>>Or you can just spend the bucks and buy a really flapper wheel (if 
you can find one).<<<

I see many places on the Internet that sell "sand-O-flex" wheels. 
As I understand it, this is exactly whats needed?

>>>Negative, it was something he called "F-12" (80% R-134a and 20% R-
12)! They had recently stopped carrying R-12 entirely!<<<

Sounds like FR-12 or Freeze 12. There are many so called "drop in" 
replacements for R12. FR-12, HotShot, Freeze 12, etc. Despite the 
claims, the A/C jury is still out on these. (Hey, propane and butane 
are great refridgerants also, but you wouldn't want to use them.) 

R12 is still legal to use in the USA, just can't be manufactured. 
Recovered and "virgin" domestic supplies are still plentiful however. 
Btw, Mexico was not a participant of the Montreal Convention (which 
banned R12) and alot of R12 is "imported" from there.

Still, its up to about $45/lb retail these days. (I have several 30 
lb cylinders I bought five years ago and they've been a great 
investment, better than the Nasdaq. :-)

R134 Conversions? There is much to know about them, just don't buy
any such kit sold for $40 at the auto stores, you'll be disappointed. 
These conversions require much more work than people are led to 
believe. In spite of what I said above, I would try an alternative to 
R12 first before doing a true 134 conversion.

Btw, if you have an A/C problem you can try www.aircondition.com.
Myself and other A/C people answer questions on the board there.
Also, for about $25, you can take a multiple choice online open book 
test and instantly receive EPA certification. This will allow you to 
buy all the R12 you want but its no substitue for understanding 
mobile A/C. (Another example of our Guv'ment at its best, restrict a 
substance and then practically give away the license to get it.)

The certification will allow you to go back to the old days of buying 
and putting a can or two in with a tap (assuming you like paying $35 
for a 12 oz can), but if you don't have recovery equipment (or don't 
understand what your doing) you could have some legal problems if you 
dabble in it and get caught. Not to mention damaging the system or 
getting hurt, R12 can be very dangerous under certain conditions. 
Best to convert, or take it to a shop and pay the R12 price.

Gary




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