From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1054
Date: Sunday, June 02, 2002 8:53 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Looking for car cover
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: Looking for car cover
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Shift Points Manual Transmission
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: fast idle,problem found(I think)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

5. Re: Update: Memphis Caravan from the North East
From: beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Low Side AC line
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Low Side AC line
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

8. Re: How do you keep your engine clean???
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

9. Re: Mode switch
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. AC Compressor cycles
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

11. door adjustment problems
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

12. door hinge question
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

13. Road Noise
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: wiper wiring diagnosis
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

15. Re: Re: Looking for car cover
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>

16. Re: Road Noise
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

17. RE: How do you keep your engine clean???
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Road Noise
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: door adjustment problems
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: AC Compressor cycles
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

21. Re: AC Compressor cycles
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

22. Re: How do you keep your engine clean???
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Front Shocks
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

24. Fuel Gauge Sender Question
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

25. So. Florida To Memphis- Anyone Else?
From: "whocruiser" <whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 22:26:59 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for car cover

In a message dated 6/1/02 9:22:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com 
writes:

<< It not only fits the DeLorean, but it also says "De 
 Lorean" on the box as a compatable car.  >>

The name of the brand of car covers Robert is talking about is "Budge"  I got 
one and its the #2 kind, and it cost $20.00.

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 09:37:29 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for car cover

Over here three owners have bought covers from this place

http://www.classicadditions.co.uk/

If memory serves, the heavy duty fully waterproof one, in silver grey (breathable, soft
lining, elasticated locking hooks) is 110. It's a little baggy around the rear, but
otherwise fits like a glove. It comes in a carry case which goes under the bonnet nicely.

My car has to live inder a particularly zealous cedar, which drops resin all year. I will
be washing the cover while it's still on the car!

Martin
#1458

therealdmcvegas wrote:

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > No room in the garage for the Delorean right now. Any ideas on
> > where to find a good fitting car cover?




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 03:13:50 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Shift Points Manual Transmission

If you have any doubts about the engine "lugging" there are several 
things to check:
1) timming setting _at_dml_ idle
2) vacuum advance, check for leaks and verify that it moves the 
timming when vacuum is applied (check that the ignition vacuum advance 
control is set up and working properly)
3) use fresh gas of at least 91 octane
4) the motor needs to be at operating temperature, too hot and it will 
ping, too cold and it will be sluggish.
It is also possible the tach is out of calibration and the shift 
points are not what you think they are.
5) there is also a mechanical centrifical advance in the distributer, 
if stuck it won't give you all of the timming advance you need. Remove 
the dist cap and check that the advance is free to move. 
When the Delorean is running right it will seem "lively" and doesn't 
"lug" that easily. Of course this is assuming that your ignition 
system is not breaking down and your spark plugs aren't worn out. Bad 
ignition wires and worn plugs can cause these symptoms. It might be 
time for a tune-up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> My car has 11K on it and I thought that it would be a good idea to 
> run the tank of gas out of it so that I could put fresh gas in it.  
> In addition, it seemed like it might be fun to drive it from San 
> Diego to Orange County.
> 
> Anyway, I noticed that if I was under 2,500 RPM's the car seemed 
> to "lug" in 4th and 5th gears. If you are cruising and you are in 
5th 
> gear 2,500 RPMS seems to be around 60 or 65 MPH.  If you accelerate, 
> at 2,200 to around 2,500 it will "lug" a little. I do not remember 
if 
> this is normal or not.  At 2,500 RPMs and above no problem.  
> 
> The car runs great other then this issue and it performs well at the 
> top end, idles and starts great.
> 
> I do drive it at least once a month for a few miles and it is in 
> perfect shape. No fuel problems....everything is new and I do put at 
> least 20 miles a month on it.
> 
> Any thoughts?  Is this normal?  I just can't remember.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scot
> 6452




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 23:12:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle,problem found(I think)

Well, I can help with part of this. The door panel is actually 2 pieces.
The upper piece comes off really easily. You just need to pry it up - up
where it meets the window. There are these little "fir tree" fasteners
that hold the panel to the door.

Once that part is off, to get to where the window regulator is, you need
to take off the rest of the door panel (lower panel). The trickiest part
are these 2 10mm bolts that are right near the door handle. To see them,
you'll need to take out the mirror switch. One of the bolts is directly
under it. The other one is about 5 or 6 inches further back toward the
back of the door. You see these bolts by looking "down", which is a little
bit subjective when talking about gullwing doors. But if the door was
closed, you want to look down toward the ground - not in, as if looking
out the window (that was my big mistake).

After those bolts are out, there's also 4 or 5 obvious screws that were
hidden by the upper door panel. Then around the sides and bottom it's just
more "fir tree" fasteners. It's much easier done than said.

Of course, before you take the door apart, make sure it's not a problem
with your window switch. Take the passenger switch and plug it in to the
driver door wiring. Always take the door apart as a last resort (as it's a
big pain in the butt).

-Christian

On Sat, 1 Jun 2002 Meyerleem_at_dml_cs.com wrote:

> Thanks to all who responded to my idle problem. I took off the "w" pipe and
> looked at the throttleplates as was suggested. The right throttle plate is
> definately bent and the left one also appears to be slightly bent. I assume
> this is from the backfire I had when tring to start the car. I also found
> that the plates were not opening fully and plan to fix this at the same time.
> I'm guessing that this is just an adjustment in the rod. anyway, i'm looking
> for the best place to buy new plates and gaskets including the rubber?
> gaskeeet under the throttle body. Any suggestions? Also my left side window
> decided not to operate this spring so how does the door panel come apart?
>                                                         Thanks
>                                                                 Lee meyer
> #1699
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 10:32:38 EDT
From: beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Update: Memphis Caravan from the North East

Dear Mike,

We'll be looking for all of you I have a reservation at the Country Hearth 
and I will monitor channel 12..This trip should be a blast! pray for nice 
weather!!!  

Chuck.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 08:16:48 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Low Side AC line

Joe, My A/C mechanic replaced the line without taking the car apart. He had 
to cuss it a little he said but did get it replaced.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 08:03:08 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Low Side AC line

When upgrading the AC on the 97^(TM) DeLorean we replaced the line going 
to the condenser. I never liked that sharp 135 degree bend in the hose 
line.

I had an AC shop custom make a new line with a custom tubing bent metal 
fitting. The hose can be replaced easily by the tire. For the fitting by 
the radiator I had the radiator out when I did this.

BOB






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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 02:25:07 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: How do you keep your engine clean???

Where did you get your engine steamcleaned?  No one will do it in NJ for
fear of EPA guidelines.

Joseph
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] How do you keep your engine clean???


> In a message dated 6/1/2002 2:00:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
> foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net writes:
>
> << I have  applied Armor All to a COLD engine and it dresses everything up
> real
>  nice.  The hoses and rubber parts look as nice as tires do when applied
and
>  the metal looks shiny and new.  I have put many miles on my engine after
>  each application and there is no smell or smoke or anything.  I assume it
is
>  safe, but that is only an assumption.
>
>  Joseph Molino
>  vin 2850 >>
>
> I use something sort of like Armor All but it is called Universal
Dressing.
> It is a part number from a whole line of cleaning products that a company
> called DSI in Fargo, ND has.  it is a milky white thin liquid that you
spray
> on with a spray bottle and then take a thin cloth and wipe it all over
> everything until the white beads of liquid disappear and all that is left
is
> a very shiny residue.  it lasts a couple of weeks of driving before i feel
> like freshening it up again.  but then again i try to keep my car as clean
as
> possible at all times.  i had the engine steamcleaned this spring (BIG
> IMPROVEMENT!! you should get your engine and underbody steamcleaned before
> applying any dressing).  the steam cleaner uses this same DSI chemical,
which
> is how i found out about it.  it comes in gallons and works wonders.  If
> anyone would like some, i will give you more information when i get home
this
> tuesday.
>
> as for the chalky stuff, are you talking about how the intake manifold
looks?
>  i had to get mine repainted (including the thermostat housing and a new
> waterpump) in order to get rid of that splotchy problem.  i keep it
looking
> good with the Universal Dressing.  in my opinion, my engine looks better
than
> most when i have it dressed up.
>
> Andy
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 08:26:35 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Mode switch

Paul, I've taken several apart and cleaned them also, did you grease the 
rubber diaphragm before putting it back together. Most of the time they only 
go back one way. You might also look at the pictures on my Talk & View page 
under reference, it might help.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/ref_main.shtml

<< So I've taken my mode switch apart and the diaphragm was clogged with dirt
 and grim and a bit sticky, it's now all cleaned up and looking new....
 
 Put it together and its worse than before, could I have put it back in the
 wrong setting?? if so how can I check if its right and line it up with the
 right vacuum outlets?? >>



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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 22:27:02 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: AC Compressor cycles

Hi,
    Before I go to Memphis I want to make sure I am not going to fry my AC 
compressor on the way.  I had the system vacuumed out and charged with R12 
last summer and it has been blowing cold air ever since but I think it may be 
cycling a bit much.
    I have a light hooked up that shows when the AC compressor comes on.  
When driving 45+MPH the AC compressor comes on for 2 seconds, then shuts off 
for 3-4 seconds then comes on for 2 seconds again, and over and over.  
Doesn't that seems a little excessive?  How can it be fixed?  Can this be 
adjusted?

Thank you

David
6286



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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 22:54:30 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: door adjustment problems

My problem is that I can't get my drivers door to close.  What started this
is a previous owner replaced the inward bolt in the front hinge with a
slightly smaller SAE size with a nut on the other side inside the top of the
door.  How he ever fit a wrench on that nut is totally beyond me, but from
the looks he never got it tight anyway.  Having this bolt loose allowed the
other one to pivot and slip which has always made the striker pin
adjustments a guessing game.  Now the door has slipped down (or inward
depending on how you look at it) so that the door fits too tight to even
close.  No amount of tugging will bring it back out.

Do I have to have the torsion bar loose to adjust this?

Is it possible to replace the stripped out threaded plate in the door
without cutting the door open?

Does anyone have any advice on adjustments once I get the proper hardware
back in the door?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 01:36:48 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: door hinge question

The parts manual shows that there are supposed to be lock washers on all the
bolts for the door hinges, (bolting the door to the hinge) but my DeLorean
has none.  I don't have another DeLorean handy to compare, so can someone
tell me if this is typical or if a previous owner was monkeying around.

Thanx,
Walt




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 14:22:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Road Noise

Hi All

Ever since I got #1458 on the road, it has been the victim of road
noise. It's difficult to hold a conversation when doing 80mph on the
motorway, and most of the noise seems to come from the centre console.
Engine noise is substantial, as is wind and tyre noise. I do need new
exhaust gaskets, though that does not account for more than 10% of the
noise IMO (you just get that beetly sound)

It was at the Birmingham show, and a conversation with Mark Bourne that
I realised the possible source of the problem - if you lift the tray
thing at the back of the centre console, the underbody has been cut away
to reveal the joints in the fuel lines that run directly beneath. This
cut is about 12" long and 1.5" wide, and is directly over the
accumulator. It looks part of the design, and not an afterthought to get
at the pipes. Has anyone else got this hole? I removed the centre
console today and you can clearly see the road down through that hole.

I know that in common with all early cars, I'm also missing the rubber
grommet thing which goes around the bottom of the gear stick - can
anyone confirm how much of a difference this thing makes to the road
noise?

All the best

Martin
#1458

PS Memphis here I come!






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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 10:26:35 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: wiper wiring diagnosis

The windshield wipers in my D decided that they do not want to work.
THis leaves three possibilities.
1. #3 fuse in blown (checked that its okay)
2. The motor is dead
As you know, getting to the motor is not an easy job. Hope it is not 
this one!

3. The wiring to the motor is defective.

The wiring diagram shows a solid green wire going to the motor. 
 However, my notes on the wiring diagram say "circuit breaker."  Don't 
remember why I wrote this.

Is there a circuit breaker in the wiring to the wiper motor? If so where 
is it?

Does anyone know if the red, green, brown and black plug above the brake 
switch is the wiring going to the wiper motor?





>
>
>





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 12:54:04 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for car cover

> Over here three owners have bought covers from this place
>
> http://www.classicadditions.co.uk/
>
> If memory serves, the heavy duty fully waterproof one, in silver grey
(breathable, soft
> lining, elasticated locking hooks) is 110.

Fully waterproof and breathable?  Is Gore-Tex used in the liner?





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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 13:18:24 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Road Noise

Martin,
Mike in Baltimore. I have an early 81 and I too was missing the 5 speed 
rubber boot....I was told it does help reduce noise and it does appear to do 
so...and the shifting feels better....I also have the cutaway (I think most 
cars do) But I also noticed alot of dryrotted foam in that area...I would 
think you could speak to one of the Delorean parts places but I would guess 
any kind of replacment foam in the middle console would be a big help....

mike c
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 12:33:50 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: How do you keep your engine clean???

Andy, You said that you painted the intake manifold.  What color and what
brand of paint did you use.  The manifolds were unpainted from the factory.
Scott Mueller
002981

-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Subject: Re: [DML] How do you keep your engine clean???

as for the chalky stuff, are you talking about how the intake manifold
looks?
 I had to get mine repainted (including the thermostat housing and a new
water pump) in order to get rid of that splotchy problem.
Andy





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 12:49:18 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Road Noise

Martin,

I have the impression that the access hole in the fiberglass underbody over
the fuel accumulator is common and may even be present on all DeLoreans.
This hole helped considerably on my car when I replaced the fuel lines.  I
thought at first that this might have been done by a previous owner, but the
cover plate looked too professional.  It is gray plastic with a layer of
foam tape to make a gasket.  It has a slot on one side that goes under one
of the two posts that hold the rear console down.  If this cover were
missing, it could allow a lot of road noise through.

About the "rubber grommet thing" under the shift boot, I talked with another
DML member who had it missing on his car too.  He bought a new one from a
vendor.  I'm sure that this missing is the major cause of your road noise.

Walt




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 13:07:04 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: door adjustment problems

An update on my problem:  I have everything apart now.  Took off the rear
louver, RR screen, both torsion bars, T-panel, head liner, etc.  I took the
door gasket off which made enough room for the door to latch closed.  I
haven't tried adjusting anything because I need that stripped out bolt fixed
first.  If I can't replace the metal plate, then my next choice is going to
be to put a nut in the door like was done before only I'm going to use the
right kind of bolt.  If I put a stack of washers (with the side ground flat)
then it would space the nut further out where I can have room inside the
door to fit a wrench over it.  What a pain!  But in a weird kind of way I
enjoy projects like this.  I just wish it wasn't MY car that this happend
to.

Another problem I'm going to fix while I have the roof apart is fixing the
metal panel that the torsion bars go through.  Mine has come unglued from
the fiberglass underbody as is apparently the case with most DeLoreans.  So
far I haven't found a way to get it to lay flat again.  It is pulled up
about 6mm in the middle and won't go back down.  I'm thinking about putting
some bolts in there and nutting it on the bottom side.  I think there is too
much force involved for a sheet metal screw to hold in the fiberglass for
very long.  As I opened & closed the doors, I could see the edges flex while
I heard it creak.  I've always wondered what that creaking noise was from.
Thanks to Dave Swingle for posting an article about this in the DMCNews
technical section.  I'm going to have plenty of photos to add when I'm done.

Y'all let me know what can be done about that stripped out hinge plate.

Walt




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 14:51:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: AC Compressor cycles

Add Freon or Freeze-12 to your system (low pressure  - driver side). Based
on your description approximately 1 pound should do the job. The reduction
in cycling time indicates a slight leak in the system.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
See You In Memphis!
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:27 PM
Subject: [DML] AC Compressor cycles


> Hi,
>     Before I go to Memphis I want to make sure I am not going to fry my AC
> compressor on the way.  I had the system vacuumed out and charged with R12
> last summer and it has been blowing cold air ever since but I think it may
be
> cycling a bit much.
>     I have a light hooked up that shows when the AC compressor comes on.
> When driving 45+MPH the AC compressor comes on for 2 seconds, then shuts
off
> for 3-4 seconds then comes on for 2 seconds again, and over and over.
> Doesn't that seems a little excessive?  How can it be fixed?  Can this be
> adjusted?
>
> Thank you
>
> David
> 6286
>





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 23:26:41 -0000
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: AC Compressor cycles

David and group, There are several thing which affect the cycling of 
the A/C compressor. 
#1. Is the Low pressure switch. Condition and adjustment.
#2. Amount of freon is the most common because you may tend to leak 
down during the winter.
#3. The amount of air blowing over the evaporator core in the heater 
box compartment.
#4. The Temperature of the air blowing over the evaporator core from 
out side.
#5. The compressor will cycle more if the speed of the blower motor 
is set on 1 vs 4.
#6. The temperature outside. Slower speed the more cycling.
It's like a clock working, it all depends on the conditions of all. 
If the LP switch is ok, and your full on freon,and it's 80 to 90 
degrees out side and you have the blower motor set on 4. Then mine  
cycle about every 40 sec. But, If your low on freon, and the switch 
isn't adjusted correct, it's 70 degrees out side and you have the 
blower fan on 2, then you may cycle every 5 sec.
What's happening is the LP switch is trying to protect the compressor 
from freezeing up by cycling the compressor on and off. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
P.S.There is a good technical explaination on page 334 of the 
technical manual.






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hi,
>     Before I go to Memphis I want to make sure I am not going to 
fry my AC 
> compressor on the way.  I had the system vacuumed out and charged 
with R12 
> last summer and it has been blowing cold air ever since but I think 
it may be 
> cycling a bit much.
>     I have a light hooked up that shows when the AC compressor 
comes on.  
> When driving 45+MPH the AC compressor comes on for 2 seconds, then 
shuts off 
> for 3-4 seconds then comes on for 2 seconds again, and over and 
over.  
> Doesn't that seems a little excessive?  How can it be fixed?  Can 
this be 
> adjusted?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> David
> 6286




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 15:37:54 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: How do you keep your engine clean???

I don't recommend steam cleaning for the engine unless you intend to let the
car sit for at least 24 hours before attempting to re-start the car. I have
hundreds of reports of DeLorean owners being stranded after a steam
cleaning. The PRV spark plug position will allow any high pressure water
source to cause the plug wells to become moisture saturated leading to spark
plug high voltage arching. This condition will cause plug mis-fire and a
possible engine no-start condition. Hand cleaning with an engine degreaser
is the
safest and least expensive way to clean your engine compartment. If you use
a garden hose for rinsing be sure to keep water away from the spark plugs
and distributor cap.

If you must take your DeLorean to a steam cleaning facility advise them in
advance as to where not to aim their steam spray nozzle.

Just for the record usually a new set of ignition wires properly installed
will be
impervious to water entering the spark plug wells.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
See You In Memphis!
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 2:25 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] How do you keep your engine clean???


> Where did you get your engine steamcleaned?  No one will do it in NJ for
> fear of EPA guidelines.
>
> Joseph





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 20:26:35 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Front Shocks

Just an FYI.
The Gabriel shock / ArvinMentor web site lists the following applications for 
the Gabriel Red Ryder front Gas shock Part # 81478, which is the same shock 
that fits the Delorean front (still requires the extra spacers). 

CHEVROLET TRUCK LUV_PICKUP All (2 W.D.) 1981- 1982
ISUZU TRUCK 1/2 TON PICKUP P'up (2 W.D.) 1981- 1995 
NISSAN (DATSUN) TRUCK 1/2 TON PICKUP 2 W.D. 1982- 1984 
NISSAN (DATSUN) TRUCK 1/2 TON PICKUP 2 W.D. Vehicles Mfg. thru July, 1986 
1985- 1986 
NISSAN (DATSUN) TRUCK 1/2 TON PICKUP 4 W.D. 1982- 1997 
NISSAN (DATSUN) TRUCK 1/2 TON PICKUP All 1969- 1981 


For what it's worth.....
Jim 6147



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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 20:29:37 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Fuel Gauge Sender Question

Does anybody know the resistance values for the fuel gauge when full, and 
when empty?
John Hurvey I know you rebuild these. I need to simply rewind mine and I want 
to get it right. Can you help me out with the correct values.

Thanks,
Jim 6147



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 01:06:09 -0000
From: "whocruiser" <whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: So. Florida To Memphis- Anyone Else?

Is there anyone else going up to Memphis from South Florida (Miami-
Ft. Lauderdale-Palm Beach areas) who might like to caravan together 
with our DeLoreans for the drive?  We can join up with several others 
from Florida at Orlando, or Tampa, or in Georgia, for the rest of the 
trip - the more the merrier.  I also still have an empty passenger 
seat in my D if anyone who can't bring their own car would like to 
ride along and keep me company.  I also have a room reserved at the 
Heartbreak Hotel, and can share it with you if you need it.  Time's 
running out, so if you're interested, please contact me soon so we 
can make final plans...

Dan Harris  VIN 1662  FL Tag# MY 81DMC (if DMV ever gets it here in 
time!)




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