From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1055
Date: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 9:02 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fuel Gauge Sender Question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: wiper wiring diagnosis
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Asbestos heat shield & vibration
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: door adjustment problems
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>

5. Re: Road Noise - the "hole"
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: Fuel Gauge Sender Question
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Cooper Cobra G/T Tires.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

8. 'Zine
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

9. need plate from a wrecked door
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

10. Yoko noise
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. DeLoean Car Show Vendors
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Road Noise - the "hole"
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

13. Re: need plate from a wrecked door
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

14. Re: Yoko noise
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

15. Re: Asbestos heat shield & vibration
From: "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_coware.com>

16. Re: need plate from a wrecked door
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. Lotus/DMC suspension x-ref's
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

18. Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. recommended coolant - dex-cool?
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

20. Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

21. Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

22. noise
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

24. RE: Road Noise - the "hole"
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

25. Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 21:59:56 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Sender Question

Jim, You will be about 3.2 ohms on the empty and around 100 ohm on the top.+ 
- 10%.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 22:11:14 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: wiper wiring diagnosis

Robert, There is a good  wiring diagram is on page 236 & 237 of the technical 
manual. If you don't have it, the colors are  Green is the #3 fuse hot wire 
and 4 other wires go to the motor. Red/Lt.green, Blue/Lt.green, Green, 
Brown/Lt. green. The motor may be just froze up from neglect and no 
lubricant. There is also a limit switch on the inside that the contacts could 
be dirty.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 02:16:11 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Asbestos heat shield & vibration


My Delorean is running noticeably hotter than usual.  The coolant 
system works great;  I spent several hundred $ making sure of that.  
One thing that I did notice is that the engine will often be much 
hotter *after* I leave it off for a few minutes (e.g., to get gas).  
Then, when I crank the engine, the indicator rises almost to the 220 
mark, the cooling fans come on, and it promptly cools down.

One cause for this may be the asbestos heat shield.  Mine is starting 
to break up, and I would like to get it replaced.  I noticed that 
Delorean Steel Products has a stainless steel heat shield.  I was 
wondering if anyone can recommend that one.  Additionally, I would 
like to get an idea of how hard it is to replace the heat shield, and 
any tips or suggestions.

Another thing I would like some advice about is vibration.  I've had 
my D aligned and balanced so many times that I finally decided just 
to get new tires.  It solved most of the problem, but I still notice 
an uncomfortable amount of vibration at high speeds (>60 mph).  I am 
going to be packing (or replacing, if necessary) my wheel bearings 
soon, and that may also alleviate some of the problem.  What are the 
other sources of possible vibration?

One more issue...I noticed that Yahoo has been home to this newsgroup 
for quite awhile.  I was initially quite pleased with it at the time 
I bought by D in March 2000.  However, I would like to register my 
dissatisfaction with Yahoo, and (perhaps be the first to) suggest 
that we move it someplace else.  I do not aspire to be an antagonist, 
but I find it more and more difficult to browse through the mailing 
list.  Wading through advertisements, slow searches and page loads, 
and annoying pop-ups all contribute to a very unsatisfactory 
experience.  Being a computer scientist, I have always been a fan of 
usenet.  At least then we could use Google Groups.  However, I 
realize that this may not be for everyone.

Aaron
#1506





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 21:22:06 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>
Subject: Re: door adjustment problems

> the metal panel that the torsion bars go through. [snip]
> I'm thinking about putting some bolts in there and nutting it
> on the bottom side.  I think there is too much force involved
> for a sheet metal screw to hold in the fiberglass for very long.

I just wanted to throw this out for the sake of clarification, since I
didn't understand it when I first read the explanation on the DMCNews site
(http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm).

The sheet metal screws don't go through the top of the metal plate down into
the fiberglass (although doing this will help pull the plate down before you
put the other ones in).  Once you have the metal plate in position, the
screws go through the *back* of the plate.  That way you're exerting shear
force on the screw and not placing all the stress on the threads, which
would surely rip out of the fiberglass pretty easily.

If you've already got the headliner out, going through the top with bolts,
nuts, and washers certainly will work.  But for those who don't have their
headliner out and don't want to remove it, the method described on the
DMCNews site should work just fine too.

_________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 10:14:11 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Road Noise - the "hole"

Hi Mike (and everyone else who responded)

James Espey replied to say that none of the cars he had a quick look at in the shop had
this access hole. This included one car in the same VIN range as mine. I had one reply
from someone with a car in the 6000 range, and he had this hole. Walt has a cover for it,
and I certainly plan on making one for mine. Mine was full of a lot of old foam - now
dust - which needed hoovering up.

Everone who has this access hole says it's supposed to be there and assumes all cars have
them. Equally there are those who don't have it and say it shouldn't be there! I wonder
why some have it and some don't...

Oh, and I tried to order the gear stick grommet from PJ Grady a while back but he didn't
have any at that time. Note to self: Item number 134 to get in Memphis...

Martin
#1458

billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Martin,
> Mike in Baltimore. I have an early 81 and I too was missing the 5 speed
> rubber boot....I was told it does help reduce noise and it does appear to do
> so...and the shifting feels better....I also have the cutaway (I think most
> cars do) But I also noticed alot of dryrotted foam in that area...I would
> think you could speak to one of the Delorean parts places but I would guess
> any kind of replacment foam in the middle console would be a big help....
>
> mike c
> 2109




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 10:27:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Sender Question

Jim, the best thing to do would be to get a potentiometer (variable resistor) and connect
it across the sender's connections.Twiddle the knob until it says empty, and measure the
resistance with an ohmmeter, and then twiddle it till it says full, and measure again.
From these readings you should be able to re-wind with the correct length

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458

jwit6_at_dml_cs.com wrote:

> Does anybody know the resistance values for the fuel gauge when full, and
> when empty?
> John Hurvey I know you rebuild these. I need to simply rewind mine and I want
> to get it right. Can you help me out with the correct values.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim 6147




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 15:25:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Cooper Cobra G/T Tires.

My Yokohama's were running fine until a nail decided to puncture the 
sidewall. No where that I looked was a able to find a new pair of 
AVS's for the rears, so I decided on buying a full new set of tires. 
Based upon size requirements, a reccomendation from a friend who has 
used them on other cars, and my pocketbook since I also needed other 
parts as well, I decided to go with the Cooper Cobra G/T's. While I 
have yet to fully put them thru all of my driving conditions, I must 
say that they are great tires! They ride MUCH quieter than my 
previous Yoko's, they have a softer ride, and they give a much more 
nimble feeling to the car. Bumps in the road are not as harsh, and 
what little cornering I have done has been stable. Ever since I owned 
the car, I thought that the shocks were going bad. It just turns out 
that it was the tires. On gravel, the tires keep a good grip, but the 
real test will be when the next rain comes.

So far though, the Cooper Cobra G/T's appear to be a fairly nice 
tire, if not an excellent one so far.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 16:46:13 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: 'Zine

Thanks to all who offered I now have this.

Cheers
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:16:27 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: need plate from a wrecked door

Scrambling to get my car ready for Memphis, I need a part that doesn't even
have a part number.  This is the metal plate that goes inside the top of the
door that the hinge bolts onto.  To get this plate out is not easy because
it requires cutting the door open.  So obviously this part needs to come
from a wrecked door.  I think I can get mine out by drilling a hole between
the bolt holes and bending a stainless tab out of the way.  Then the plate
should fall out.  Each door should have two of these plates, front & back,
and they all should be the same.  I only need one.  If anyone has one
available, please e-mail me directly (off list).  I will need this mailed
Priority Mail, and I need it soon.  Otherwise I'll have the stripped out
threads on mine welded, drilled & re-tapped.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 17:48:13 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Yoko noise

Hi,
Since I put my Yoko's on (3k ago) I've noticed tire noise in the 
front.  It really becomes noticable when I turn the car to the left.  
has anyone had this with their Yoko's?  Are my tire not aligned 
correctly?  I've checked the thread so see if it is wearing down and 
it doesn't appear to be.  Any ideas?  I've going to be driving 12 hrs 
to Memphis and don't want my tires to wear out on me.

Thanks
Erik




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:31:46 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLoean Car Show Vendors

I received this e-mail earlier and thought perhaps I should do one more post

Ken:
There has been very little said about a vendors display area, which may be a
good source for used parts. As well, new parts from our regular DeLorean
suppliers, I'm sure will be offered.

There will indeed be a number of vendors attending the show.  If you wish to 
sell items all you need to do is let me know.  As usual there is no charge 
for tables fir you to sell from.  I do ask that you bring your own table 
coverings. Yes we will supply some chairs too.

If you are a vendor and have not already donated to the raffles it would be 
greatly appreciated.

Anyone who wishes to donate to the raffle I certainly encourage you to do so. 
 Just let me know what you have and bring it to Memphis.

One item that I am putting up for bid will be a helicopter ride over 
Graceland.  There will also be some seats available for purchase.  I am still 
working on this so details are not finalized.  

The Nascar racing seems to be going over well although I don't know how many 
of you are actually going to take the drive.


See you in Memphis 
Believe it or not other than name tags I am ready to go.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:36:25 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Road Noise - the "hole"

HI all

If you look in the parts manual at 8:7:5 Frame/Body General interior trim
The top picture clearly shows this access hole......

My car however does not have it....Vin #6463

Cheers
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk


----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Road Noise - the "hole"


> Hi Mike (and everyone else who responded)
>
> James Espey replied to say that none of the cars he had a quick look at in
the shop had
> this access hole. This included one car in the same VIN range as mine. I
had one reply
> from someone with a car in the 6000 range, and he had this hole. Walt has
a cover for it,
> and I certainly plan on making one for mine. Mine was full of a lot of old
foam - now
> dust - which needed hoovering up.
>
> Everone who has this access hole says it's supposed to be there and
assumes all cars have
> them. Equally there are those who don't have it and say it shouldn't be
there! I wonder
> why some have it and some don't...



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:48:05 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: need plate from a wrecked door

Walt,
Why don't you try using a "Helicoil" insert before you attempt to remove the
plate? These work great in most cases and it will take you all of 20 minutes
to accomplish.
Just my two and a half cents worth.
Rustproof
Vin# 1559




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 22:19:06 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Yoko noise

Erik - The Yokohama AVS Intermediates have a very aggressive shoulder 
tread design that will create quite a bit of noise during cornering.  
The separate shoulder blocks shift around to provide for maximum grip 
in the turns.  I had talked to a tire expert (whatever that means) 
when I first selected these tires, and he warned me that I would hear 
them "talking to me" when I was driving in 'sport mode'.  If you don't 
see early wear of the tires, and all other aspects of your car are 
correct, the noise should be expected.  I had the last set I bought 
siped, and the noise level *seems* to be lower.  However, with all of 
my urethane up front, I get other parts of the car "talking to me".  
Keep the shiny side up.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi,
> Since I put my Yoko's on (3k ago) I've noticed tire noise in the 
> front.  It really becomes noticable when I turn the car to the left. 
 
> has anyone had this with their Yoko's?  Are my tire not aligned 
> correctly?  I've checked the thread so see if it is wearing down and 
> it doesn't appear to be.  Any ideas?  I've going to be driving 12 
hrs 
> to Memphis and don't want my tires to wear out on me.
> 
> Thanks
> Erik




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 22:57:46 -0000
From: "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_coware.com>
Subject: Re: Asbestos heat shield & vibration


I replaced my asbestos heatshield last December, with a NOS asbestos
one. It was a breeze to remove, but one of the 4 bolts used to attach
the new one back onto it's bracket was next to impossible to thread. I
gave up, and the shield is now holding on by only 3 bolts. It hasn't
seemed to be a problem yet... but if anyone has any helpful hints,
short of removing the engine :-) would be appreciated! 

Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034






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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:40:23 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: need plate from a wrecked door

> Why don't you try using a "Helicoil" insert before you attempt to remove
the
> plate? These work great in most cases and it will take you all of 20
minutes
> to accomplish.

I talked with Louie _at_dml_ PJ Grady, and a threaded insert is what they use and
recommend.  The problem is that they can't sell me the stuff to do it, and
who they buy it from does wholesale only.

Luckily (?) it was the front plate that stripped out and not the rear.  It
looks like to get the rear one out would involve cutting holes in the door,
so a threaded insert there would make a lot of sense.  But it looks like the
front plate can be replaced with the only evidence being a small hole
drilled between the bolt holes which will be covered by the hinge anyway.
I've had two offers on used plates, so it looks like I'm getting one soon.

I want to take the door off the car so that I can straighten a dent in the
same corner of the door.  My theory is that the previous owner tried to
adjust the door by removing this bolt without taking the tension off the
torsion bar.  And it looks like he managed to put a smaller bolt back in its
place by prying & denting the top of the door and T-panel.  These are light
dings that should come out easily, but I don't want to take a torch to the
door while I'm cooking the windshield underneath.

Tomorrow I take the door off.  Fun fun.

Walt




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:42:21 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Lotus/DMC suspension x-ref's

In my quest of designing a new heavy duty front sway bar for our cars, I
have learned of some cross-references.  This also gives me a lead on why the
D's front sway bar has a mysterious downward bend that serves no purpose.
Before I suspected that this was a mistake.  (If the downward bend were
rotated 90 degrees inward then on sharp turns the bar might have more room
clear the wheel.)  But actually it is a copy of a Lotus part.  And in the
Lotus application there could be some obstruction that requires this bend to
clear.  Can anyone tell me what model & year Lotus that this jives with?

Front sway bar (anti-roll bar) for DeLorean part # 100233
crosses with Lotus part # M78C0021

Anti-roll bar mount DeLorean part # 100774
crosses with Lotus part # M78C0046

Spacer anti-roll bar clamp DeLorean part # 106960
crosses with Lotus part # M78C0131

Front snubber washer ~ anti-roll bar bushing DeLorean part # 101289
crosses with Lotus part # M78C0076

Rear snubber washer ~ anti-roll bar bushing DeLorean part # 101591
crosses with Lotus part # M78C0093

Walt    Tampa, FL






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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 02:32:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block

Am not DeLorean owner yet -- just shopping & researching.

Have seen cars on Web re-engined with carbureted American small
blocks. Is much more up my alley than fuel injected foreign plant.

Does anyone have engine swap experience (willing to correspond in more
detail), or could direct me to an owner with such? 

Wish I was in Memphis with you guys (and gals) ...






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:49:18 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: recommended coolant - dex-cool?


Any recommendations for coolant? I'm going to be flushing my cooling system
tomorrow, and a friend recommended refilling with Dex-Cool by Havoline.  Any
comments?  Thanks,

-Hank #1619




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 03:44:43 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?

When Don Steger was out here for our last tech session, he indicated 
that he's starting to see corrosion problems in cars using the Dex-
Cool stuff. Maybe an issue with brass radiator & aluminum engine 
combination, not really sure (most modern cars are now using aluminum 
radiators). 

This may start some kind of holy war on the list, but his 
recommendation is to stick with the green stuff, and change it no 
less than every two years. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> Any recommendations for coolant? I'm going to be flushing my 
cooling system
> tomorrow, and a friend recommended refilling with Dex-Cool by 
Havoline.  Any
> comments?  Thanks,
> 
> -Hank #1619




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 05:05:25 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?

That's interesting news.  But, just to clarify, are we talking about 
official Dex-Cool made by GM, or are we talking about Dex-Cool 
compatable coolants such as Prestonstone 5/150 that is orange 
colored? I'd also be curious about a little back ground on the 
cars themselves that used the coolant. There could also be 
variables in both the purity of the water used, age/condition of the 
previous coolant, etc... I've only heard of one other vehicle using 
Dex-Cool that has had corrosion problems, but it was a factory 
problem of silica within the engine block, and nothing related to 
the coolant itself.

I don't run official Dex-Cool in my car, I use the Prestone 5/150. I 
do agree that running regular green coolant shouldn't be any 
problem, because we would assume that everyone here does 
infact change their coolant every 2 years anyhow. The only part of 
my cooling system that is original is the engine, the metal pipes, 
and the heater. So If figure that the extra protection that the 5/150 
has to offer is worth it for my parts just in case... If nothing else, 
there is one big advantage to the coolant: Because of the orange 
color, you can quickly identify coolant leaks on the ground to see 
if they are from your car. When I went for my first smog check, the 
tech thought that my car had overheated in line because of a 
sizable puddle of green coolant. No worries for me since my 
coolant is orange.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> When Don Steger was out here for our last tech session, he 
indicated 
> that he's starting to see corrosion problems in cars using the 
Dex-
> Cool stuff. 



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 05:34:52 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: noise

Hi Folks,

I have a clicking noise thats is vehicle (not engine) speed dependent 
coming from the left rear wheel. The slightest application of brake 
stops it. I've had the wheel off and found nothing obvious. A search 
of the archives shows someone had exactly this problem in 1996 but I 
never found how he resolved it. Any ideas?

Gary




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 05:36:56 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block

You'll get a good number of replies about the engine swap with 
more info than I could possibly provide. So I'll leave that one 
alone. However, don't be intimidated by the K-Jetronic fuel 
injection system. Even though you may need certain tools to tune 
it, it's really not difficult at all. For the most part, the only place that 
you really "tune" it is the mixture screw on top. Other than that, 
you just have to replace parts that troubleshooting may 
determine defective if there is a problem.

If you are absolutely bent on a carb setup for the PRV, it is 
possible. It won't be cheap, nor easy. It is possible, but I wouldn't 
reccomend it.

I either case, when you keep your car stock, you keep the 
knowlege and support for it. When you start to modify things, you 
may be on your own...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Am not DeLorean owner yet -- just shopping & researching.
> 
> Have seen cars on Web re-engined with carbureted American 
small
> blocks. Is much more up my alley than fuel injected foreign 
plant.
<SNIP>




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:06:34 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Road Noise - the "hole"

Driving #1860 around today with no center console installed, there are 2 very small holes where the fuel lines pass through.  I would not call the access holes, I cant fit my hand though them.

Also look at the parts manual 2:1:0, I'd like to see a photo of a car without these holes... how do the lines pass though the body to get to the accumulator?  

Paul, your #6463.  I wonder if this was a change that was made in late 81??  Next time I have the console out of #6068 I'll check that one too.

Or, maybe the confusion is what each of us are looking for?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Salsbury [mailto:paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 2:36 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Road Noise - the "hole"
> 
> 
> HI all
> 
> If you look in the parts manual at 8:7:5 Frame/Body General 
> interior trim
> The top picture clearly shows this access hole......
> 
> My car however does not have it....Vin #6463
> 
> Cheers
> Paul
> #6463
> 
> www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Road Noise - the "hole"
> 
> 
> > Hi Mike (and everyone else who responded)
> >
> > James Espey replied to say that none of the cars he had a 
> quick look at in
> the shop had
> > this access hole. This included one car in the same VIN 
> range as mine. I
> had one reply
> > from someone with a car in the 6000 range, and he had this 
> hole. Walt has
> a cover for it,
> > and I certainly plan on making one for mine. Mine was full 
> of a lot of old
> foam - now
> > dust - which needed hoovering up.
> >
> > Everone who has this access hole says it's supposed to be there and
> assumes all cars have
> > them. Equally there are those who don't have it and say it 
> shouldn't be
> there! I wonder
> > why some have it and some don't...




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:02:46 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?

It was not clear, just an off-hand remark. Suppose you could give Don 
a call. 

Dave S.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> That's interesting news.  But, just to clarify, are we talking 
about 
> official Dex-Cool made by GM, or are we talking about Dex-Cool 
> compatable coolants such as Prestonstone 5/150 that is orange 
> colored? 




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