From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1061
Date: Friday, June 07, 2002 8:13 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Car sometimes dies, won't start, click click click from relays
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Sunstar Gold DeLorean
From: Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Interior and coolant question
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. DeLoreans in the Decatur, AL Area!
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>

6. Alabama DeLorean Dealers
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>

7. Re: Stripping....A DELOREAN (What were YOU thinking?)
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Removal of rusty screws
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: vendors and other scammers
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

10. Radiator Flush!
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

11. Memphis DeLorean caravan from the Northeast
From: Dmc3360_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Car sometimes dies, won't start, click click click from relays
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: DeLorean vendors and other scammers (was paying less for quality stuff)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean
From: hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. DeLorean Car Show Registrations
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

16. solution: we should all own 3 Deloreans
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Radiator Flush!
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

18. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

19. DeLorean Brochures
From: "williamflane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

20. Fuel Tank Update.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

21. Oil sender?
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

22. Re: Car sometimes dies, won't start, click click click from relays
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Radiator Flush! air bleeding....
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Re: Interior and coolant question
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

25. Re: Radiator Flush!
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 23:45:12 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Car sometimes dies, won't start, click click click from relays

Hi Matt

It might be an idea to invest in a new RPM relay (black box, 6-way connector, goes
underneath/behind the lock module). This controls the fuel pump among other things.

Being an early car, has it had the starter circuit upgrade?

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html

The window fell off the bottom of the tracks in #2727 and it was a real pig to get back
up again. In the end it was James RG who succeeded - NB you can't pull it out the window
to slot it back in from the top - he had to get it back on the guides from the bottom. I
don't know if this is the "accepted" method, but it's the only way we found.

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458

argent486 wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Working on my car this past month has been fun but now I'm starting
> to have an itch to get this thing on the road. It seems to decide
> whether it wants to run one day and sleep the next. On some occasions
> including today it starts fine, runs for a minute then dies. Getting
> it started after that is about impossible. I already have a fuel
> filter and accumulator to change this weekend. My concern is a click
> click click (about a second apart) from the relay compartment when it
> does not start. On first crank I can also hear the fuel pump run, but
> after that I don't hear it again. I'm sure my accumulator is going
> out, but is the relay clicking normal? Could one of them be shutting
> off my fuel pump as well???
>
> Also up there with stupid things to do... I was replacing my
> passenger door window motor last night. Got it out ok but the window
> was pulled from the tracks and now sits in the bottom of the door.
> Any procedure to start it back up from the bottom?
>
> Safe travel to all for the Memphis show! Wish I could come along but
> have to work.
>
> Matt Metzinger
> VIN #961 - KS TAG "TIMELES"




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 19:16:09 -0700
From: Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Sunstar Gold DeLorean

Did the Sunstar Gold DeLorean come out yet?  I get a catalog from a 
company (Exoticar) that sells model cars, including the Sunstars, and 
have not seen it in there yet.  It's hard to believe that the BTTF car 
would come out before the gold one.  The BTTF one has so much more 
modifications on it than the gold one which is simply a different color.

Also, can anyone who has the BTTF one tell me, do the wheels turn down 
for "hover mode?"

Thanks

--Joe




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 00:00:38 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

Dave, if restoring a car was a spectator sport, and we all had tickets, you'd be in the middle of the most deafening cheering right now as you approach the finishing line...

On behalf of all DML members who are going to Memphis - "WE KNOW YOU CAN DO IT!"

I'm looking forward to having a beer with so many of you guys, I'm going to be drunk for the whole show.... :-)

Martin
#1458

"Stragand, Dave" wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> When I started this whole deal, I promised to keep y'all informed of more than just a laundry list of updates/fixes/repairs etc. that were done to the car.  I stated that my main intent was to chronicle what such a massive undertaking would have on the person restoring it -- John Q. Mechanic.

<snip>




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 00:14:28 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Interior and coolant question

Hello all... been a while since I have been on the list...

What is the best recommended "care" product for the interior of the 
Delorean?  I have been using Eagle-One Tire Care "wet Look" but was 
told it will probably dry out my seats... I have also heard bad 
things about armor-all

second:  my AC works great, but the center vents do not work... I 
can fill a tiny bit of air... but not a lot... yet it pours out the 
door vents... any ideas?

third:  I have a small coolant leak in the FRONT of the car... it 
only leaks after the car warms up... otherwise it's fine... I have 
looked and look, and cannot pinpoint where it's coming from.... 
since it only does it when it's warm... is there a section on the 
radiator that is an overflow?

I was trying to see how to remove the radiator but I am no 
mechanic... I am thinking about buying the whole coolant kit from 
DMC houston...

any help appreciated... and thanks!

Mike
855





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 19:20:02 -0500
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: DeLoreans in the Decatur, AL Area!

Hi Group,

I found out recently from a friend (who works at Food
World) about another DeLorean in my area.  My friend 
said the guy bought his car in Las Vegas. 

If anyone knows this guy, of if the owner is on the list, contact
me!  

So far I have tracked down about 10 DeLoreans that at some 
point have occupied or do reside in the Decatur region of Alabama!  

Not bad, eh?

Later Guys,
Robert Greenhaw

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 19:22:27 -0500
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Alabama DeLorean Dealers

Hi List,

If anyone has a list of past DeLorean dealers, could you
please pass along a list of the DeLorean dealers that were
in Alabama?

I'm very curious to know if they have any old parts and stuff
still lying around!

Thanks,
Robert G.

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 03:09:00 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping....A DELOREAN (What were YOU thinking?)

I've seen your car at Robs shop and know exactly what you are 
talking about. If you decide to strip the paint off here are your 
pro's and cons:
1. The Stainless panels are in perfect condition and only need to be 
re-grained (as Dan D's car was) ,PRO
2. The bosy has bondo on it and now you have to again sell the car 
as is for the same price as you would have gotten for it if lefted 
painted minus all the work you just did to get the paint off or 
repaint it the right way and sell it for more. You could also 
replace the damaged parts but that would still cost you. ,CON

IMHO, I would just leave the car as is and sell it at a fair price. 
Let the buyer know that you are not sure if the body is free of 
bondo so it dosn't come back to haunt you if he finds out there is 
bondo on it. If you start stripping the car you may open up a can of 
worms and you stand to loose more money (and your time). If you were 
going to keep the car then I would say strip it down and take the 
chance. If the body is perfect then great! If not then either 
replace the damage parts OR repaint it the RIGHT way.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "tp8534" <mpolans_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>      I've had a few very serious bites on my car.  It's VIN #10365,
> 1982 gray 5-speed.  Mechanically it's really nice, drives solid, 
all
> leather was redone in 1997, many new parts done professionally by 
Dan
> RC30 and P.J. Grady DeLorean.  Here's the problem: it's painted 
white.
>  The grain appears to be in tact underneath (it's been stripped in
> various places) and the paint never adhered correctly (Previous 
Owner
> job).  It looks like white alligator skin, no luster



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 03:16:00 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Removal of rusty screws

Go to your local tool store (like a Sears) and buy a set of stripped 
screw extractors. They are special bits that "bite" into the 
stripped/rusty head and extract the screw. They work great even on 
screws where the head has rusted off.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Hm - I tried to remove the rusty screws under the DeLorean (the 
screws securing the rocker panels) with no luck.
> How do you loosen these? They are very hard to get to, the heads 
are very flat and the pattern almost none. My screwdriver can't get 
a good grip. Please advise.
> 
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway



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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 19:56:36 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: vendors and other scammers

In a message dated 6/6/02 10:21:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
checksix3_at_dml_juno.com writes:

<< >>>Your comments are well thought out, worded and well accepted by 
 the DeLorean community who don't want to "mickey mouse" their car.<<<
  >>
>> No offense to those folks, but don't lump me in with the backyard 
mechanics and college students who often can't diagnose and repair 
(let alone re-engineer) the simplest of problems. While I do value 
the vendors and some of the talent that posts here, the care and 
feeding of this vehicle isn't exactly rocket science.
<<
<< I'll deal with the vendors when its in *my* best interests, not 
theirs. They are, after all, not in this for some noble cause but to 
take our money, as much as we will give them. >>

Checksix3_at_dml_juno.com,
As a mechanically competent individual, with the ability to engineer and 
fabricate a great deal of improvements into my DMC-12, I have to agree. I am 
also a pilot and have experienced the joys and expenses of owning and 
maintaining a classic cotton cover aircraft. I'm also a fairly competent 
machinist.

It seems to me there is a full cross section of owners out there. Some that 
don't have the vaguest idea of how an internal combustion engine works, to 
those who can look at the car and see every system and its short comings. 

The ones who don't know how it works, how to fix it, or where they can get 
what they need, live in fear of loosing support from the vendor community. 
And the vendor community, to a certain degree but not in all instances, plays 
on the FUD factor (fear uncertainty and doubt) to keep their audience. 
Granted there are some Delorean specific parts that are only available as 
NOS. But to fear that at some point in time, a part will arbitrarily be 
removed from the market out of spite is absurd. Vendors with an investment in 
inventory must in order to stay in business compete and sell thier wares. 

I've been on the list now for about 8 months. And although I see some 
attempts to share information concerning generic parts and alternative cost 
effective solutions, I also sense a certain amount of hostility from vendors 
who seem to think that the list is thier own personal venue, sometimes taking 
the opportunity to discredit or squelch alternatives.

I've had vendors approach me and encourage me not to post detail about 
certain things. EFI upgrades for instance. Why? Because they wanted to make 
sure that they had a crack at marketing something of thier own, rather than 
having the owner community know how to do it themselves.

My recent post on shock absorber alternatives for instance. The condescending 
nature of a reply, by a member who I believe has a vested interest in 
marketing his own front and rear shock set up is a recent example. The front 
shocks, as near as I can tell from their web site are Gabriel G63902 Gas 
Ryder VST LT off a Nissan 1/2 ton 69-81. I just picked up a pair for $19.00 
each at Autozone. The rears are Chevrolet Camaro all with multi-leaf rear 
springs inc. Z-28, 1968-1969 All, Gas Ryder VST 69606 in a Gabriel, or Monroe 
Sensa Track/ Napa Gas Charged Deluxe Sensa Track (NS5803), which is what they 
appear to be selling. The Monroe Napa units sell for $24.95 a piece. Their 
kit is $284.00 as I recall. So you get 4 over the counter shock absorbers 
worth $90.00, and end up paying an additional $194.00 for two aluminum coil 
spring seat collars (that your local machine shop can fabricate for less than 
$50.00) and 4 spacers you can get from the hardware store for less than a 
buck apiece. This is simple gouging. 

Needless to say I went into the basement, and spent about an hour at the 
lathe making the ride height adjustable coil spring seat collars I needed, 
from about $4.00 worth of aluminum, and got the front spacers from Ace 
Hardware.

I do have some fears that if I continue to disclose what I learn on the list, 
that maybe I'll offend the only vendor that one day has something I need, and 
that maybe I'll find myself blacklisted.  But if that's ever the case, then 
I'll know the Delorean is a marquee that I'd no longer want to be associated 
with. 

Here's a suggestion for the vendors. Market a shock spacer and collar kit. 
One for the Monroes and one for the Gabriels. Maybe another for KYB's etc. 
The only diff is the diameter. Sell it for about $39.95 a set. You'll make 
some friends and gain a great deal of loyalty. One vendor in particular has 
already gained mine in other ways. And the shipping times from N.Y. to Ohio 
are only 2 days....

Jim 6147






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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 23:32:44 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Radiator Flush!

Ok .. i just got a quote from a local garage for a rad flush .. $200
 
something sounds VERY strange
 
i was told .. their rad flush machine will not accomodate a DeLorean and
that they would have to REMOTE EVERY HOSE AND TUBE connecting to the rad
 
 
does this sound right?
 
is there an easy way?
 
i am thinking perhaps of doing this myself
 
 
please let me know your opinions
 
thanks
Kenneth
05541
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 23:32:53 EDT
From: Dmc3360_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Memphis DeLorean caravan from the Northeast

Just a note to all those I have spoken with and those I haven't.  There will 
be a group of us leaving from the New Jersey, NY and CT area and picking up 
others along the way to Memphis.  Our plan is to leave early Wed morning from 
various points in NJ and so on, traveling down I-295 in NJ to the Delaware 
Memorial Bridge and onto I-95 in Delaware which we will take to the 
Washington, DC area.  Then taking I-66 from the Washington Beltloop to I-81 
which we will take all the way to Knoxville and stay over at the place Aaron 
Posey has set up as a layover.  Continuing on in the morning to Memphis on 
Thursday.  If anyone I haven't spoken to is on this route let me know and we 
will try to pick you up on the way.  We will be using the Family Band radios. 
 Channel to be determined but email me and I will let you know the final 
details by Sunday night.  See you in Memphis!

Gary Gore
Vice President
DeLorean Mid Atlantic



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 03:33:02 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Car sometimes dies, won't start, click click click from relays

Before you go changing everything I would first load test the battery 
and check and clean all of the "big" connections. I have seen several 
batteries that act like they have a loose connection inside, sometimes 
they work fine and sometimes they act like they are dead.
 Only change the fuel accumulater if you have a hard hot start 
problem. The fuel filter won't cause this but if it hasn't been 
changed in a long time there certainly is no harm in changing it. If 
you have a very early car (which your vin suggests) there is a wiring 
mod that should be done (see the archives). Also check the inertia 
switch, if it is on the lambda counter move it and make sure it has a 
white spot on it (it might be the old one that was recalled if it 
doesn't have the white spot). The old inertia switch would kill the 
fuel pump.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "argent486" <argentum_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> Working on my car this past month has been fun but now I'm starting 
> to have an itch to get this thing on the road. It seems to decide 
> whether it wants to run one day and sleep the next. On some 
occasions 
> including today it starts fine, runs for a minute then dies. Getting 
> it started after that is about impossible. I already have a fuel 
> filter and accumulator to change this weekend. My concern is a click 
> click click (about a second apart) from the relay compartment when 
it 
> does not start. On first crank I can also hear the fuel pump run, 
but 
> after that I don't hear it again. I'm sure my accumulator is going 
> out, but is the relay clicking normal? Could one of them be shutting 
> off my fuel pump as well???
> 
> Also up there with stupid things to do... I was replacing my 
> passenger door window motor last night. Got it out ok but the window 
> was pulled from the tracks and now sits in the bottom of the door. 
> Any procedure to start it back up from the bottom?
> 
> Safe travel to all for the Memphis show! Wish I could come along but 
> have to work.
> 
> Matt Metzinger
> VIN #961 - KS TAG "TIMELES"




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 03:40:48 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean vendors and other scammers (was paying less for quality stuff)

If you think some parts are too expensive then think about what you 
would pay for a part that is no longer available! The venders are our 
only hope to keep that from happening. Your Delorean could become 
worthless if there is no source of parts. Besides have you seen the 
prices on parts for modern cars lately? I just bought a rim for a 2002 
Pontiac Grand Am and (are you ready for this?) it was $560. It is true 
that you can buy many parts from other sources but they will only have 
parts that also fit other cars. They will NEVER have parts that are 
Delorean specific, the market is just too small. Thank the Venders for 
gambling their entire business future on us by patronizing them 
whenever you can.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RaistsApprentice_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
>  There's a little phrase I find appropriate for these situations: 
"Whatever the market will bear." 
>  And that's my two cents.




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 20:48:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean

yes and yes.

Hugo

--- Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> Did the Sunstar Gold DeLorean come out yet?  
> 
> Also, can anyone who has the BTTF one tell me, do
> the wheels turn down 
> for "hover mode?"



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 23:49:17 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Registrations

I am fielding a lot of questions on Registration packets
They will be at the Radisson or the Heartbreak Thursday from 3 to 5 and at 
the Thursday night event just look me up.  If you are at the Radisson and the 
package is not there then check at the Heartbreak or first scheduled event.
They will also be available at the Heartbreak Hotel from 8 til 10 on Friday 
and again at the Friday night event and at the Car Show Saturday.

That should cover it 

Ken

Less than a week and counting. 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 23:56:15 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: solution: we should all own 3 Deloreans

I am new to the Delorean List (8 months) and have only had my car 6 months, 
but I can assure you I have had enough repairs to have learned a little about 
what it takes to keep this car on the road...I think the only perfect 
solution is that we all should be lucky enough to have 3 car garages and own 
3 Deloreans......

The first car would be the concourse one that never gets opened or driven or 
even looked at (ie: rent Spinal Tap and see how Nigel treats his prized 
guitar) every part is NOS and has been hand polished and the car is sealed in 
a vaccum bag like those "limited edition" McDonalds happy meal figurines that 
are piling up and now breeding in our minivan. This one is for car shows only 
and requires a trailer. 

The second car is, for lack of a better term, you're "daily driver". This is 
the car that looks fine, has all the upgrades and still gets the looks. On 
closer observation stainless is scratched the facias are a little worn, the 
tires are old and the headliner is sagging and some of the things in the car 
dont work perfect.....You get parts off ebay, from your local Pep Boys and 
any place else where you can save a buck...The average passerby will not even 
notice these flaws and see your Delorean and think it looks perfect and ask 
the same questions as the driver of car #1.

The third car is your experimental car....This is the one that you can always 
work on or tinker with, test all those wild ideas that you read about on the 
List. You can also modify anything else you want in an effort to "improve" it 
like power steering, cruise control, superior sound system etc.....

I guess in the end we need to remember the movie "The Breakfast Club" where 
each character learns in the end there is a little bit of every personality 
type in all of us. So since most of us can only afford 1 Delorean we have to 
choose which of the above cars make sense for each of our lifestyles....I say 
be happy with whichever car you own and do so within your financial means 
(and of course what you're wife, significant other will allow) I must now go 
order some flowers for my wife because when our credit card bill arrives this 
month I may find myself spending my nights in the garage as well with my 
Delorean.

mike c
2109

  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 04:11:50 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Flush!

No. Sounds very wrong. Do it yourself. $12

Instructions at http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

The bleeder mentioned may also be purchased as a kit from several of 
the vendors. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Ok .. i just got a quote from a local garage for a rad flush .. $200
>  
> something sounds VERY strange
>  
> i was told .. their rad flush machine will not accomodate a 
DeLorean and
> that they would have to REMOTE EVERY HOSE AND TUBE connecting to 
the rad
>  
>  
> does this sound right?
>  
> is there an easy way?
>  
> i am thinking perhaps of doing this myself





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 01:15:55 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

Hi All,

 

I'm finally wrapping up the interior... only the center console and headliners are left to go, and we're reskinning the seats tomorrow.  The exterior is likewise just about ready... cleaning, brushing and detailing are all that remain.

 

I've been a bit bothered by my ride height.  I have Fred Lockett's springs and shocks that I received unused with the car.  The front springs are supposed to lower the ride height by about 2", but right now the front end looks even -higher- than stock.  I've seen this before with new springs, as often they take a while to settle.  A while though, I don't have, so I stopped at a hardware store and asked them for "400 pounds of something heavy, compact, and cheap".  Ten 40 pound bags of topsoil are now sitting in the trunk, and it's lowered the front end dramatically.  Imagine that.  Anyway, the height from level ground to the bottom of the front air damn was about 10.5".  It's now sitting at 5.5" and looks goooood.  I'd be happy if it evened out at somewhere between 7 and 8 inches.

 

Now, before I get all kinds of emails about hauling dirt to Memphis, I'm not going to.  This is simply to sit in there for a couple of days to help coerce the springs down to their normal height faster.  You also may being saying, "hey Dave... I can only fit 320 pounds of topsoil in my D".  (If you're as insane as I am, that is).  You would be right though, I can't get the trunk closed with more than eight bags.  I'll be taking it down further to five bags (200 pounds) for about 100 miles of break-in driving on Saturday.  Maybe it'll help, maybe not.  I could always use the topsoil though; the yard's looking a little bare this year anyway.

 

In other news, I was able to locate a $4 mirror mounting kit for my compass/temp inside mirror.  It has two different sized -plastic- buttons, and includes the mounting pad.  This should solve the potential issue with the metal mirror button and the glass expansion.

 

That's it for now.

 

-Dave Stragand

VIN #05927

http://www.projectvixen.com



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 05:33:31 -0000
From: "williamflane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: DeLorean Brochures

While attending a locaal cruise-in this past Monday night I was
approached by a gentleman who identified himself as having been a
salesman at the Delorean Delership where I bought my DeLorean.  He is
now the Sales Manager at the local Buick Dealership.  At any rate, he
said that he had a bunch of Sales Brochures and leaflets that he had
acquired from the dealer years ago.  To make a long story short, I now
have these brochures and will take them to Memphis.  Anyone interested
in buying any of them, I'm sure we can work something out.  Give me a
shout at the show.  I'm staying at the Raddison.

See you there!

Bill Lane
#3635




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 06:11:34 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Update.

After tinkering with my Carbon Canistor last time, I suspected it 
to be the culprit behind what wasn't bleeding off the excess 
pressure within my gas tank when heating up. And it turns out to 
be right so far. The gasoline smell is for the most part gone. The 
only time that it will occur is around when the temp gague hits 
about 220. The fans will kick on, cool everything down, and the 
smell goes away. The same if I park the car when the temp is 
high. When I get back in, the gas smell will be present, but as 
soon as the engine runs for a couple of minutes, the smell goes 
away.

Getting everything down to this point, the remaining smell should 
be eliminated by giving the tank a once over, and replacing a few 
hoses, and reseating the fuel pump seals. Last year back in 
2000 when I first got the car, the problem was so bad that the I 
had gasoline bubling out from the electrical connections on the 
fuel sending unit. After a set of new hoses and what not, I'm 
going to try and seal the sending unit with liquid gasket maker. 
It's resistant to petrolium, and I can brush it on to get into all of 
the nooks and crannies. Hopefully, that should take care of the 
vapor leaks.

So far the fuel pump has been fairly quiet, but I'll need to do more 
testing to know for sure. But if the noise continues, then I'll just 
continue with the plan to eliminate the pick-up hose all together. 
Even after a completly new ignition system though, I'm still 
having a hot-start problem. So far I've narrowed it down to either 
the accumulator, or the check vavle on the fuel pump. But I won't 
know for sure untill I perform an actual physical test of the fuel 
system pressures.

Just thought that I would share this with the group incase any 
others might have simular problems.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 03:29:11 EDT
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Oil sender?

A while back someone on the list told me to check my sender
for the oil light for an oil leak mainly at the rear left side of
the engine.  Where exactaly is this part located?  Can you see
it better from underneath or above?

Any help would be appreciated...I am hoping my persistent oil
leak is just (or mainly) being caused by this and not something else.

Thanks,

Richard

  



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 05:14:02 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Car sometimes dies, won't start, click click click from relays

Matt and Group, As you may or may not know, there was an up grade to the 
starting system depending on your Vin #. But not having your vin # at this 
time, Then do this. Do and Open Circuit Voltage test. ( OCV ). When the 
battery is in the rest mode and not hot but just say just in the morning , 
put a DMM across the battery post and you should read about 12.66 volts. If 
you don't then there is a problem in the charging circuit or in the battery.  
To do a load test with out going to a gargage to local auto store, Put a DMM 
across the battery post and have someone crank on the car. The battery 
voltage should drop to around 10.25 volts, if it goes lower, then the battery 
or the starter could be going bad. The older the cars get the starter will 
pull more current.
Let me know how it turnes out.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

    
<< Working on my car this past month has been fun but now I'm starting 
 to have an itch to get this thing on the road. It seems to decide 
 whether it wants to run one day and sleep the next. On some occasions 
 including today it starts fine, runs for a minute then dies. Getting 
 it started after that is about impossible. I already have a fuel 
 filter and accumulator to change this weekend. My concern is a click 
 click click (about a second apart) from the relay compartment when it 
 does not start. 

Matt, The fuel pump will prime up for a second or two when you first turn on 
the key, that's normal, then when the motor starts to turn over, the pulse 
coil in the ignition distributor will send out a signal  to turn on the RPM 
relay. This will start the fuel pump running unless there is something wrong 
in the circuit. Then unless there is something wrong with the fuel circuit or 
timing, the car should start normal.
John Hervey 

On first crank I can also hear the fuel pump run, but 
after that I don't hear it again. I'm sure my accumulator is going 
out, but is the relay clicking normal? Could one of them be shutting 
off my fuel pump as well???
  >>



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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 09:54:45 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Flush! air bleeding....

If you have the overheat protector installed, do you still need to 
perform the air bleed procedure after flushing the cooling system?

Adam

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> No. Sounds very wrong. Do it yourself. $12
> 
> Instructions at http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm
> 
> The bleeder mentioned may also be purchased as a kit from several 
of 
> the vendors. 
> 
> Dave S
> 



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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 09:55:58 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Re: Interior and coolant question

Hello Mike,

The answer to your first question is very debatable,  wether you 
should use some sort of silicone based product or not.  What i use, 
and is a little hard to come by, is made by Liquid Glass, it's 
called Connisuerrs (spelled wrong, sorry) Choice.  It is a blend of 
synthetic silicones and the natrual mink oil.  It gives the car 
interior a nice semi gloss look that is very nice to touch as well.  
Since you used protectant that was totaly wrong,  you will need to 
by Liquid Glasses leather and vinyl cleaner (blue spray bottle).  
Spray this on first and spend a day with a tooth brush lightly 
taking it to all the cars interior surfaces in a circular motion 
will make it look like brand new, i promise.  

For your air conditioning, the little adjustment spindles on each 
side of the middle vent controls how much air comes out of them.  
Try an adjust them, if not the hoses may be knocked off if someone 
had to get into the center console.

On your coolant leak issue,  this is not matter to really screw 
around with my friend.  Jack your car up a little on the front, 
removed your wheels and start the car up (even better if you had 
access to a preasure tester) to let the preasure build.  Most likely 
it is comminbg from a hose, or the radiator.  Also check the air 
bleeder hoses for cracking on the plastic or alminum.  In any case 
if you have the orgional hoses,  buy the hose kit from grady and 
have them all replaced along with a good collant flush, description 
on how to do this is int he dmcnew tech section.  While your at it 
replace your thermostat too.

Good luck,

- Shain
#10140

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "iqmpike" <iqmpike_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all... been a while since I have been on the list...
> 
> What is the best recommended "care" product for the interior of 
the 
> Delorean?  I have been using Eagle-One Tire Care "wet Look" but 
was 
> told it will probably dry out my seats... I have also heard bad 
> things about armor-all
> 
> second:  my AC works great, but the center vents do not work... I 
> can fill a tiny bit of air... but not a lot... yet it pours out 
the 
> door vents... any ideas?
> 
> third:  I have a small coolant leak in the FRONT of the car... it 
> only leaks after the car warms up... otherwise it's fine... I have 
> looked and look, and cannot pinpoint where it's coming from.... 
> since it only does it when it's warm... is there a section on the 
> radiator that is an overflow?
> 
> I was trying to see how to remove the radiator but I am no 
> mechanic... I am thinking about buying the whole coolant kit from 
> DMC houston...
> 
> any help appreciated... and thanks!
> 
> Mike
> 855




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 10:03:17 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Flush!

Ken,

In the dmcnews tech section is a how to on how to flush the rad.  It 
is very straight forward and easy to do.  I just had to do this 
while i was replacing my coolant hoses.  Only thing i did not do was 
to removed the engine block drains, they did not want to budge, and 
was too worried about stripping them out.  So just skip over it,  
and flush it for just a little bit longer.  If you have the orgional 
radiator be very, very and i use the word again VERY gentle ont he 
plastic fittings on it.  The price from the shop sounds about 
right,  but most shops won't cover parts from being damaged on the 
car anyway, so why not try it.  Replace your thermostat while your 
at it.

- Shain
#10140

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Ok .. i just got a quote from a local garage for a rad flush .. 
$200
>  
> something sounds VERY strange
>  
> i was told .. their rad flush machine will not accomodate a 
DeLorean and
> that they would have to REMOTE EVERY HOSE AND TUBE connecting to 
the rad
>  
>  



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