From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1065
Date: Sunday, June 09, 2002 2:34 AM

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. door jamming
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

2. RE: vendors and other scammers (Long Reply Again)
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

3. Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean
From: "chi_amfmxm" <jzierk_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: vendors and other scammers
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

6. Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean
From: crazycracker731_at_dml_aol.com

7. Temp gage fluctuation
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: Temp gage fluctuation
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: door jamming
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: door jamming
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

12. Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers
From: "jv_espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 10:50:03 -0400
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: door jamming



I think my door is getting stuck on the front striker pin.  I've adjusted
everything so that the door will close smoothly, but when i try to open it,
the front gets stuck.  To get it open, i place a small crow bar under the
door and apply a little pressure, and the door opens up.

What is getting my door stuck?

Thanks
 Willie




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 08:44:27 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: vendors and other scammers (Long Reply Again)

> how about volunteering the part numbers and cross refs for the Gabriel
and Monroe units you're selling, strictly for the benefit of the
Delorean community? 

Jim and "the list", 

Would you request that all of the "vendors and other scammers" provide
their specifications, drawings, sources and part numbers "for the good
of the list"?

Those who want to research, engineer, re-engineer or reverse-engineer
original DeLorean designs will continue to have choices.  The choice of
marketing their items for their own good and the good of the list
members who recognize the value and want to purchase them.  And the
choice to make the information available so that "some" others could
source/make the items themselves.  These choices are not necessarily
mutually exclusive, and neither one is in any way un-ethical (as some
would imply). The choice is theirs to make, and they should not be
criticized for it.  

Marketing/providing significant improvements on an existing design
should also be encouraged.  Prior to "Marty's adjustable shock collar"
there was the questionable practice of turning an additional groove in a
shock, and moving the locking ring down.

By the way, there is more to Marty's "design" than putting a collar on a
shock, and those who don't realize this may find out the "hard" way.  

If I make this email any longer, I'll have to ask Jim for the source and
part number of his soap box :-)

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 17:25:44 -0000
From: "chi_amfmxm" <jzierk_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean

Ok....I cannot locate the Sunstar Gold Delorean....and I have not 
seen it on eBay....anyone have a link to it somwhere?  I'd love to 
pick one up.

Thanks.

Jerry
###

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> yes and yes.
> 
> Hugo
> 
> --- Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> > Did the Sunstar Gold DeLorean come out yet?  
> > 
> > Also, can anyone who has the BTTF one tell me, do
> > the wheels turn down 
> > for "hover mode?"




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 17:36:26 EDT
From: tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: vendors and other scammers

I rarely post to the DML but I have to relate my own experience with Marty.  
Last fall I was contemplating changing my shocks to improve the ride.  Since 
Marty will be attending our tech session I thought I want to give the shocks 
that he developed a try.  I contacted Marty and he agree to bring a set along 
and help me change it.  At the tech session he basically changed the shocks 
for me and showed me how to compress the springs without using any tool but 
the weight of the car.  The collars he developed are well machined and 
quality is superb.  The result is - excellent ride and comfort.  I am 
extremely happy with it.
Marty is a Professional Engineer by trade and I believe his improvement on 
the DeLorean is strictly motivated by his interest.  Like he said "He would 
go broke if he depend on it for a living" or to that extend.  The price he 
charge is more than fair and the markup is hardly worth his time and effort.  
There is no reason that he should volunteer his information when he invested 
a lot of money and time on developement effort.  If he choose to do that, 
that will be up to him but there is nothing wrong to try to recoup his 
development cost by marking it up.
I met Marty the first time at the tech session and he is the nicest guy you 
want to meet.  Marty,  thanks for a great job.
Bill Kwan
#2157


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 18:02:30 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers

I've done some more research.  The big problem with rear shocks on the 
Delorean is the need for a collar to go around the lower shock body to 
support the lower coil spring seat. This is what seems to hold everyone up 
and forces them to buy Marty's kit. Well if you look in the current Grainger 
catalog on page 365 (BTW their web site is www.grainger.com) , you'll see two 
piece steel and stainless steel clamp style shaft collars. The Monroe Napa 
unit has a 1 and 3/4 inch lower shock body outside diameter. The clamp you 
can get from Grainger would be the 2 piece  IL708 in steel or the 2 piece 
IL727 in stainless. They are 11/16 wide and should have no problem supporting 
the weight of the car. If you're worried use two on each shock. They are also 
available in 1/8 and 1/16 inch ID increments so fitting to Gabriels, or KYB's 
or Bilsteins should be a breeze. The only other consideration is machining a 
groove in the top of the clamp just to keep the lower coil spring seat 
centered. But you could do this with a simple spacer or washer if you wanted 
to. 

Some clarification on the shocks I used.  The 94004 Napa gas charged deluxe 
is off of a 72 Mercury Marquis. The 94013 is from a 69 Camaro. I have the 
94004's installed. They are the correct dimension. The 94013's are probably 
the same dimension but different valving. I'll check when I have time, but 
common applications indicate it should be the same. I have seen the Gabriel 
for the 69 Camaro and it appears to be dimensionally correct. So these should 
be the open door to selecting the performance level you want in a commonly 
available aftermarket shock.

Front shocks are easy. You need four  1/2 inch wide with 1/2 inch ID spacers 
for the front lower shock eye bolts. Use one or two flat washers berween the 
spacer and the lower control arm to make up for any differences in lower 
control arm width. Lower bolt diameters vary. The Gabriels have a 1/2 inch 
diameter. The originals have 14mm. So you can drill out the new shock spacer, 
or just use 3 and 1/2 inch long 1/2 inch bolts which is what I did. Use the 
Gabriel VST LT Gas Ryder  G63902 off a Nissan 1/2 ton 69-81. I just picked up 
a pair for $19.00 each at Autozone. Put them in this morning. Nice shock.

The Grainger IL708 in steel is $11.69
The Grainger IL727 in stainless is $38.30
The Gabriel front G63902 is $19.00
The Napa Sensa Track rear NS5803 is $24.95
The Napa Gas Charged Deluxe rear 94004 is $19.95
The Front spacers should be about $1.00 each
1/2 bolts are about a buck each
Washers cost about 10 cents each

Vendors.... Here's your kit....Sell it all for 199.95 and you'll clear a 
standard wholesale to retail 40% markup, and I'm sure no one will 
complain...As a vendor you could probably do even better with your dealer 
buying power. The shock prices above are full retail. What can you guys buy 
them for?

Also sell just the mounting kit...clamps spacers and bolts. Then we can buy 
the shocks we want, based on the diameter of the shock we choose.
I don't have all the answers, so please help me out if you already know 
better about something.
Sorry Marty....But you can still tell us the part numbers you're using. Or we 
can go it alone.

Jim 6147



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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 21:35:50 EDT
From: crazycracker731_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean

 <A HREF="http://diecastmuscle.com/">Diecast cars, diecast model cars, diecast collectibles, diecast muscle cars</A>
Here is your link the car does not come out till nov. sorry i am so slow :)
Richard 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 21:21:39 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Temp gage fluctuation

While prepping my car for Memphis trip, my temperature gauge started
fluctuating with change in engine speed.

I have already R&R the major ground connections.
Battery
bulk head behind coil
trailing arm
LF near radiator brace
LF connectors in washer res. compartment

I also R&R fuses

Any ideas as to what is going on?

See you in Memphis.

Scott Mueller
002981



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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 23:14:29 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Temp gage fluctuation

> While prepping my car for Memphis trip, my temperature gauge started
> fluctuating with change in engine speed.

Bad connections at the sender unit are not uncommon.  But this sounds like
maybe it is related to system voltage like maybe your alternator isn't
putting out enough?  If the gauge goes up on acceleration then it sounds
like a direct correlation.

Walt




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 23:22:40 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: door jamming

> I think my door is getting stuck on the front striker pin.

Check to make sure that your striker pin isn't too far out (toward the rear
of the car) or too far in (toward the front of the car).  You might need to
add or remove a washer behind it.

I just got my door back on today!  The torsion bar is a lot harder to put
back on than to take off.  It took 3 people.  And we came close to breaking
the rear window because we didn't have our vocabulary straight.  "up" means
to move the whole torsion bar up -- not rotate the lever handle up.  Now
with the hinges properly adjusted, I don't need to karate chop the door to
close anymore like I'm breaking a wood plank.

Walt




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 00:58:12 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: door jamming

Actually, I am having the same problem sometimes, although not very many. I 
think it is when the door handle is not lifted up at a good speed.

John
4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 23:07:23 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers

Jim,

It is unclear in your post -- have you actually tried using the Grainger
collars on your car or are you just speculating?  I got the idea myself to
use pillow blocks from Grainger, but that would require some machining to
cut off or mill off the lip meant to hold the bearing centered.  I never
bothered to check if they sell collars.  That would be a lot easier to use.

> The only other consideration is machining a
> groove in the top of the clamp just to keep the lower coil spring seat
> centered. But you could do this with a simple spacer or washer if you
wanted > to.

This may be unnecessary.  Do you know about Byrne Henninger's shock
conversion kit?  This is one of the idiosyncrasies of his kit that I don't
like.  It seems that the spring cup could slide off, but he says that no one
has had any problems.  I posted a shock conversion essay to the DML a while
back before you joined the list.  Check for it in the archives under "shock"
and "Byrne".

I like Byrne's design best, but it still needs some refining IMHO.  I think
John Hervey sells it on his website.

Another alternative to your idea of machining a groove in the top of the
clamp is to simply reuse the OEM clamp but cut out or mill off the lip that
fits into the shock body.  (If the new shock body is the OEM diameter.)  The
spring cup alone should keep the halves together.

> Some clarification on the shocks I used.  The 94004 Napa gas charged
deluxe
> is off of a 72 Mercury Marquis. The 94013 is from a 69 Camaro.

I think that the Camaro shocks would be a closer match for the DeLorean.
Isn't the Mercury Marquis is proportionately a heavier car?

> So you can drill out the new shock spacer,
> or just use 3 and 1/2 inch long 1/2 inch bolts which is what I did.

I don't like the idea of using a thinner bolt.  This leaves a bit of slop in
the lower control arm.  Drilling the eyelets bigger tends to leave a rough
edge in the sleeve.  Perhaps a small hone could polish the bore?  But it's
not critical.

Walt




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 04:48:45 -0000
From: "jv_espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:

I'm just curious, and hope that someone can answer this for me intelligently. 
Wouldn't there be some disadvantage to using shocks from a FRONT engine 
car in the DeLorean application? I mean, think of the weight distribution in the 
DeLorean (35/65) versus either of the cars mentioned. Can someone explain 
to me why this is not factor?

James

> 
> Some clarification on the shocks I used.  The 94004 Napa gas charged 
deluxe 
> is off of a 72 Mercury Marquis. The 94013 is from a 69 Camaro. I have the 
> 94004's installed. They are the correct dimension. The 94013's are probably 
> the same dimension but different valving. I'll check when I have time, but 
> common applications indicate it should be the same. I have seen the 
Gabriel 
> for the 69 Camaro and it appears to be dimensionally correct. So these 
should 
> be the open door to selecting the performance level you want in a 
commonly 
> available aftermarket shock.





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