From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1068
Date: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 10:51 AM

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Holes in bumper

2. Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors (long)
From: Todd Masinelli <>

3. Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean
From: Jack The Stripper <>

4. rear fascia removal
From: Travis Graham <>

5. Re: Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors

6. purpose of relay

7. Burned DeLorean :(
From: "Derrick Viane" <>

8. Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers
From: "dmcman82" <>

9. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "dmcman82" <>

10. Re: Sunstar DeLorean/New parts
From: "dmcman82" <>

11. Re: Burned DeLorean :(

12. Remanufacturing Torsion Bars.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

13. Re: rear fascia removal
From: Jim Strickland <>

14. Re: Shift Pattern
From: Jim Strickland <>

15. Sears Vs. my TABs
From: "Walter Coe" <>

16. Re: New DeLorean Parts (TAB's specifically)
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

17. Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors (still long)
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

18. CarFax needed
From: "dmcnorway" <>

19. Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors (SS frames)
From: "d_rex_2002" <>

20. RE: New DeLorean Parts (TAB's specifically)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

21. RE: rear fascia removal
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

22. Things I'm bringing to Memphis.
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:32:36 EDT
Subject: Holes in bumper

I have two small holes in my bumper,  and I was wondering if they are 
supposed to be there. I was thinking it is for a license plate, but decided 
to ask you guys about it.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 18:58:23 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors (long)

>> DMC Joe's excellent Battery Saver.
> It's treating the symptoms and not the disease

I guess I don't understand what the disease is.  The reason I bought a
Battery Saver -- Walt, you might want to skip this part. :-) -- is because I
show my car with the doors, hood, and engine cover up.  Having to disconnect
each door switch and the engine cover switch is inconvenient, and off the
top of my head I don't even know how to disconnect the light in the hood.
My options were to either yank the courtesy fuse each time or get DMC Joe's
switch and tuck it away in an inconspicuous location.

I didn't see the Battery Saver as being a solution for any of the D's
inherent electrical problems, but rather an easy way to keep open doors from
draining your battery while you're working on (or showing off) your car --
which I would think would happen in any vehicle, not just a DeLorean.

> I just went to look at DMC Joe's website and couldn't
> find it - from memory isnt it a cutoff switch?'s got two spade connectors that plug into the #12 fuse receptacle
and an inline fuse to provide circuit protection.  Maybe by "cutoff switch"
you were referring to the type that connects at the battery and cuts all
power?  If so, I'd agree that it would be treating a symptom and not the
disease if something like that was used regularly and not just for long-term

Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:25:52 -0700
From: Jack The Stripper <>
Subject: Re: Sunstar Gold DeLorean

Thanks Steve.

For half the price I'll have to get it from them rather than the place I 
got the regular one at.

Someone said that the gold one is available already, but that site has it listed as

available in November.  Do you know what the story is on this?  Thanks.



Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 19:29:57 -0500
From: Travis Graham <>
Subject: rear fascia removal


I have discovered the source of my oil leak: one of the two M7 bolts 
which holds the "cover plate" onto the left cylinder head (and also 
supports the compressor belt pulley adjuster) has broken off!  I'm 
pretty sure that the only way to properly get to the broken bolt is to 
remove the rear fascia. bumper, etc.

Now for my question: can I "easily" remove this entire piece?  The shop 
manual states that I must remove the fascia from the rear fiberglass 
piece, then remove the bumper, etc...but, of course, the shop manual 
also says to remove the chassis from the frame in order to replace the 
clutch line!  Therefore, I don't trust the manual.  So, from those who 
have been there and done that, what does it REALLY take to remove the 
rear fascia (and everything that it's attached to) in order to get to 
the back of the engine?

Many thanks for your help and I'll see you in Memphis!  (If the other 
bolt doesn't break!)

Travis Graham


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:01:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors

Dear John Hervey:
Well, spoken! thanks again for rebuilding my tail lights they shine so bright 
now!  and thanks again for all the FREE advice you have given me. Without 
guys like you and my buddies Tom and Rick, guys like me who aren't mechanical 
could not own Deloreans!!!   To ALL of you vendors you are appreciated! And 
thanks to all of you on the DML! Hope to see all of you in Memphis!

Chuck Darling
Vin# 6125

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:58:34 -0400
Subject: purpose of relay

Hello group,

Can anybody tell me the purpose and part number for the silver colored relay that is located 
back of the engine on the firewall about 8 inches left of the ignition resistor?
Gus Vin #5791  


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 03:14:12 +0000
From: "Derrick Viane" <>
Subject: Burned DeLorean :(

Well Group back about two weeks after 9-11  I wrote to tell you all that my 
D was burned to the ground.  Well here is an update.  It was determined that 
the fire was intentionaly set.  At this time I still have no solid leads as 
to who might have done this.  The insurance company has denied my claim on 
the basis of "misrepresentation of facts and circumstances surrounding the 
loss"  which means that they think I had something to do with it, which I 
did not, and I don's think they have any evidence to support it because they 
have not charged me.  In the first denial letter they gave a very vauge 
reason why the denied it and finally after several failed attempts to 
elaborate I went to the insurance commission and they got a little more but 
still not much.
    The reason I am writing you is to ask all of you parts junkies what you 
might offer me for whats left of my car so that I might fight my insurance 
co.  As of right now I do not have a place to host all of the images for 
whats left and as soon as I can find a host I will let everybody know.  In 
the mean time I can give a general idea of whats left;  whole front portion 
of car hood w/pleats & flap, both quarters, both front rims, pretty much 
everything from the wipers forward.  I am sure the frame is still good 
(Automatic) I am unsure of the engine becase the engine compartment 
sustained heavy damage. Possibly the back rims.  That is a basic rundown of 
whats left.  Like I said as soon as I can I will post some pics untill then 
you can e-mail me direct at ghettodmc(at)

until the next time


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 04:38:23 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <>
Subject: Re: Shocks - vendors and other scammers may have mixed me up with someone else or another Steve 
but I simply made a comment about using the Monroe shocks on a 
Delorean...not the custom made ones that Rob has.

If this wasn't to me and another Steve...Sorry.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Steve,
> The only vendor out there that offers adjustable pressure rating 
on the shocks is PJ Grady. They are also rebuildable. I know other 
vendors offer replacements as well, but I don't think they're 
adjustable or rebuildable. I have the PJ Grady shocks on my car and 
they're set at the highest pressure rating. The ride is still smooth 
and the handling is nice :). They fit in perfectly.
> ---Dan


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 04:41:22 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

And get a lower MPG too! :)

Had to say it...:)


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Dave,
> You have un-earthed a little known secret on how to lower the 
front of your DeLorean. A better choice of ballast (bags of topsoil) is lead 
buckshot available at ammo and some hardware stores. This is a simple and inexpensive way to temporarily drop the front end.


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 04:46:17 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <>
Subject: Re: Sunstar DeLorean/New parts

And also wreak havoc on the vendors. I know that PJ Grady keeps a 
record of a Credit Card on file so that billing is faster for the 
person returning to purchase another item. I guess you can "order" a 
part and when it's availabe they'll ship it out but I don't think 
they might want to go that route. Most of the time a person will 
place an order for something and by the time it's made/arrives that 
person changes their mind and dosn't want it anymore now that leaves 
the vendor with an extra item.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "dmcnorway" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Interesting -
> Why don't some of the vendors do this?
> Put forward an offer on a part that will be reproduced. Let people 
> pre-order, and hold the credit card on when the part has 
> been reproduced they charge the card and ship it out.
> This method could boost development time for replacement DMC parts 
of higher quality...
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 01:00:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Burned DeLorean :(


    Why not put the pics on the Yahoo groups web page?  They have a section 
just for pictures.

Nick Pitello


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 05:32:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Remanufacturing Torsion Bars.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Stian, I put out on the DML list about the torsion bar for the 
drivers side which as I understand is out of stock.. Not knowing 
how much exactly it would cost, I figured around $500.00. I got 
about 5 reply's that would take one. Going to the manufacturing 
company was a little bit of a challenge. All had retired and one 
man remembered all the people making them. Once this man is 
gone, it may be lost forever from the original source.
> John Hervey

Does it need to be a solid bar that replaces the existing torsion 
unit? Yes, the solid bar looks nice and all, but what about this:

Install a solid bar in the current place of the existing torsion bar. 
Except, where it connects to the door, install a swivel hinge (think 
lazy suzan) so the bar does NOT twist as the door opens and 
closes. Now, connect a tightly wound spring between the front 
door hinge, and the rear piece that connects to the body. The 
stationary bar will keep the spring in place, and the spring itself 
can keep the same levels of torsion as the cryso-twist bar. Viola! 
Instant torsion spring for you doors! No modification to your car 
required, and only utilizes a couple of additional parts. I have the 
exact same set up on my panel garage door.

See, problem solved! :)

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 01:49:24 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <>
Subject: Re: rear fascia removal

I'm surprised you have to take off the whole rear of the car to fix this
problem... isn't there enough room for vice grips or something once you
get the rest of the pulley tightener assembly off?  I'd check but I don't
have "THAT" engine anymore.

To answer your question, anyways---  Taking off the rear facia is a pain
in the _at_dml_#$!!  Taking off the rear facia assembly is a piece of cake. 
There are 4 bolts- two on each side in an angle bracket.  They are in the
rear left and right corner of the engine compartment.  Take them out and
the whole back end falls off.  Don't forget to unplug the tail lights
(goes up by the coolant bottle to the firewall), and if you like your
corner markers, pull them off and disconnect them (they are attached to
the harness in the rear facia assembly).  

good luck..
Jim 1537


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 01:38:50 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <>
Subject: Re: Shift Pattern

As far as I know, there is only one REAL adjustments for side to side
travel- at the rear of the shift cable near the transmission.  I assume
this adjustment should be enough in most cases.  

It seems by your explanation that you have "too much" cable and you can't
"pull" the cable enough to get it in reverse.  If this is the problem,
you can put a spacer (washer) between the shift cable (at the front) and
the frame where it enters the passenger compartment.  This, I think,
would be hard to do unless you are a contortionist or take apart the
whole deal.  A better idea is to bend the metal plate that the cable
sheath attaches to in the back by the transmission.  If I understand your
problem, I think you would have to bend it away from the transmission. 
This will (more or less) move the threads on the cable sheath so that
your adjustment is in a different range.  You may have to take it off of
the car to bend it, it is reinforced...

good luck


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 01:22:01 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Sears Vs. my TABs

I just had my car aligned for the second time at Sears.  I figured that it
would be hard for them to do wrong because they have the latest Hunter
4-wheel alignment machine that has the specs for the DeLorean preprogrammed.
They did the same car last year.  I told them then to just adjust the toe-in
on the front and tell me how much the rear is off so that I could fix it at
home.  I said the same thing this time, but the mechanic got curious and
wanted me to get my money's worth.  So he loosened both TABs and played with
the shims.  The OEM shims did not give the fine adjustment that he wanted,
so he made a thinner shim to get it perfect.  I know that there are
potential problems with using the wrong kind of shims made of soft metal can
compress too easily.  So I made sure that his custom shim was not placed on
the end and instead was sandwiched between the others where it couldn't
crush.  His custom shim did make the rear alignment perfect.


I told him about the required torque specs, but he wasn't interested.  I
asked him if he had a torque wrench built into his arm, and he said "Yes" --
that he just remembered how tight it felt when he loosened it and put it
back to the same tightness.

Well, from there I drove straight home very carefully.  I checked how much
torque it took to further tighten the TABs, and found that both needed less
than 20 ft-lbs of torque to move.  For those of you not up on the specs,
these are PJ Grady TABs that are supposed to be torqued to 60 ft-lbs.  This
guy had them less than 1/3 that requirement.

The moral of the story:

Also, the mechanic didn't hold the tie-rod ends while loosening the
jam-nuts.  But at least he didn't mind my watching him.  It's interesting to
see how that alignment computer works.

(I'm off of my soap box now.)



Message: 16
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 09:47:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Parts (TAB's specifically)

Hi Toby

I did not check the archives, but I do remember Joe stating that (Joe?). 
Will you have your TABs at Memphis? My position is simply based on 
having a low mileage car with suspension components in 99% condition. My 
TABs are not rusty, nor bent, and are torqued properly. I DO want a set 
of your bolts, but other things are coming first on my car money-wise :-)


tmpintnl wrote:

>Martin and List - I appreciate the contributions that DMC Joe has made 
>to the support for the DeLorean.  However, if the "quote" below is 
>true, I must disagree.  I have personally changed many bolts that were 
>bent (and broken) on cars that had been properly maintained in terms 
>of the TAB's.  My car, for instance, got a good visual check and 
>torque check at every tech session (2 ~ 3 times per year).  Mine broke 
>'out of the blue' at one of those tech sessions.  


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:12:15 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors (still long)

dmcnorway wrote:

>My point is still, when you buy a DeLorean specific part (lets say an 
>ashtray) why not, in the same order, buy other parts (for instance a 
>Bosch fuel pump) you need.
A fuel pump is heavy and valuable..... the tax is a killer and the 
shipping is expensive.

>Also, you can 
>always put a lower value on the package so that no import tax will 
YOU can? It's up to the sender to declare the value and most of the 
large vendors won't reduce the declared value. I got stung for 120 in 
tax on a $600 order from PJ Grady.

>Also - the DOC UK has found many parts that are IDENTICAL to what the 
>DeLorean uses. This list should be published, at least to the members of the DOC 
>UK who has paid membership dues
There was a large cross-reference list printed in the club mag a couple 
of issues ago. The problem, as I see it, is simply the people who have 
discovered cross-refs passing the info on. Paul Salsbury is always quick 
to pass all info on on the list. I have not needed many parts - engine 
and transmission parts just come from Renault or Volvo through either 
the Diesel Centre or Braydon Motor Company respectively - both of whom 
are on my website. Specifics like the track rod ends were from a comment 
by Chris Parnham on the DOC list. Plus if you get stuck, a phone call to 
Dave Howarth or Mark Bourne (or Jason Monk, or Chris Parnham, or Stuart 
Pennington or ......) usually gets you the answer you're after. It's 
very difficult to compile a list of parts per-se, and to get to the "nub 
of the matter", creating a list of available parts, by implication, says 
that nothing else is available.  The more people  like Paul, Rich and 
myself restore cars, the more parts are re-appearing.

As we're on the subject, the Diesel Centre found a supplier of the 90A 
Bosch alternator used on the Volvo 260. I will be investing in one for 
the purposes of research in the near future (does it fit the DeLorean 

> - you mention the part from a Triumph 
>Herald, very interesting, but what about the rest of the identical 
What do you need? Until someone needs something, we can't exactly just 
hand over a car and say "give us a cross reference for all these". Off 
the top of my head, we can get

Brake pads
Brake discs
Brake flexi-hoses (slightly different lengths than OEM)
track rod ends
fuel pump
water pump (volvo-style)
spark plugs
auto tranny filter
all gaskets
gearbox parts
CV boots
washer bottle pump
brake calipers
ignition barrel
rear view mirror (any scrapyard will have loads that are identical to 
the OEM one)
windscreen wipers
door seals
brake master cylinder
clutch system

...until someone needs something , we don't know what we can get. The 
above list is just things I know we or others in the club have sourced. 
Interesingly, once you factor the cost of shipping and tax, most of 
those above become prohibitive to send to the US.

>I think its important to show the difference between IDENTICAL and 
>cross-reference/will maybe work part.
There's n awful lot in the list above which are not 100% identical to 
the OEM - the fuel pump for example is an exact match, but it's black. 
The door seals are exactly the same apart from an extra "ridge" which is 
invisible when on the car, the washer bottle pump has the connector on 
the side instead of the end. The ignition barrel has a different plug 
but the same pins, the CV boots are a perfect fit but are better made 
and a slightly different shape. These are just examples. Often the 
vendors are selling the "different" parts - often the differences are 
just caused by changes in the manufacturing process over the years.

This may be my last post before Memphis - (huge sigh of relief from 
everyone :-)

I'm going to Halfords at lunchtime to buy a few bits'n'pieces. I will be 
bringing a couple of bottles each of Black Trim Wax (perfect for Louvers 
and bumpers), some Auto Glym interior care products, some rear view 
mirror sticky pads, and some tyre dressing. I also have sitting next to 
me right now (just arrived) a brand new black leather seat cover made by 
the original company responsible for trimming the DeLorean. This is NOT 
for sale, but watch this space....



Message: 18
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 10:37:37 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <>
Subject: CarFax needed

Can anyone help me run a CarFax report on a DeLorean?
Please respond privately.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland

VIN # 06759


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 12:08:06 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Parts and vendors (SS frames)

Martin, Stian and List,

First, Pearce Design has sold at least 4 SS frames in the last year.
(I know this for a fact since I purchased 2 of the frames myself)

Second, Pearce Design makes a replacement front impact tube, but it is
designed to be bolted on to the SS frame, for easier replacement.
A stock, steel frame could be modified to accept this new SS part, but
the frame would need to be in excellent condition and possibly need to
be reinforced to be strong enough to structurally sound after drilling
and tapping a significant number of holes to mount the new SS part.
It would not be wise to attempt welding a SS part to a steel part. 

Third, I have also heard that a DMC vendor has been in contact with
Bryan Pearce and his father about making frames for a vendor.

Pearce Design makes an extremely high quality product.  Re-design and
improvements on the original Delorean frame design has resulted in a
product that brings the Delorean automobile up to a new level.  There
has been a lot of talk about R&D costs that vendors incurr, but I know
that few have put in as many R&D hours as Pearce Design.  I believe
they are approaching the 1,000 hour mark with regards to the time
spent to date on just the measurements, drawings and prototyping of
the frame and associated parts.  What many people do not realize is
that the SS frame had to be re-designed just to be able to use SS.
SS must be bent at a different radius than mild steel, or any other
similar material, but the overall dimensions had to be kept the same.

Pearce Design is of the vendors at the Memphis Show this week and they
will have their products on display and are ready to field questions.

I hope this clears up some speculation in advance.

See you all in Memphis in a few days. 

Rich W.

> >* stainless steel frames made by Brian Pearce (why do they only 
offer the front tube extension? And why not make that part in 
stainless steel instead of powdercoated steel)
> >
> Welding stainless, especially for a structural application is 
> skilled. Brian Pearce has been offering his frames for sale for 
> and AFAIK, hasn't sold one. I believe one of the vendors has 
> him to make a set for them though.


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:19:05 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: New DeLorean Parts (TAB's specifically)


Your statement below confused me.

First you say you torque your bolts 2-3 times a year, and then you explain how the bolt stretches.  Is it possible you stressed your bolt while re-torque so often?  There are a number of critical bolts which most automakers recommend replacement after they have been used (Flywheel to crankshaft is one I can think of) due to stretching when it is installed.  There are just so many times you can "stretch" the bolt before it gives (even if you torque it proper by taking it out, cleaning, and reinstalling).

I admit, I am no expert on this topic (or most, for that matter!) but conversations with both DeLorean professionals, and engineers (non-delorean related) say that the most likely cause of bolt failure in this configuration is due to the nut becoming loose and the bolt being stressed BECAUSE it is loose.  The fix is to double nut the bolt.

With that said, I may pick up a set of Toby TAB's some time in the future anyway. :)

Your efforts are appreciated; please do not take this as an attack on you or your project.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: tmpintnl []
> Subject: Re: [DML] New DeLorean Parts (TAB's specifically)
> Martin and List - I appreciate the contributions that DMC Joe 
> has made 
> to the support for the DeLorean.  However, if the "quote" below is 
> true, I must disagree.  I have personally changed many bolts 
> that were 
> bent (and broken) on cars that had been properly maintained in terms 
> of the TAB's.  My car, for instance, got a good visual check and 
> torque check at every tech session (2 ~ 3 times per year).  
> Mine broke 
> 'out of the blue' at one of those tech sessions.  Perhaps you and DMC 
> Joe can review some of my thesis on the topic.  You will find 
> that the 
> OEM TAB's are most likely yielding a little every time they 
> are loaded 
> up during driving.  The "little yields" accumulate into a situation 
> where the bolt actually stretches.  This cycle will repeat every time 
> the bolt is tightened, until the material reaches it's 
> elastic limit.  
> When the material enters the plastic range (a technical term), the 
> bolt is in the process of failing in bending or ductile 
> fracture.  The 
> OEM bolts will also succumb to corrosion if the yielding doesn't get 
> them first.  I will remind you that 1/3 of those responding to the 
> poll said that they had experienced bolt bending.  I cannot believee 
> that that many cars are improperly maintained.  Of course, the 1/3 
> that said they didn't know, and didn't care, are the ones 
> that concern 
> me.  Ignorance is not always bliss.
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1   


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:30:12 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: rear fascia removal

Not that hard (unless you have lots of rust).  I have done it 4 times in the past few months.  This is from memory, so if I forget something- SORRY!

Remove the tail lights, unplug the harness from the firewall.

Remove the engine cover latch.

Remove all of the 10mm nuts holding the bottom of the fascia to the heat shield.  There are also 2 bolts inside bolted to another bracket (on either side of the heat shield)

There will be 4 17mm head bolts holding the fiberglass part of the fascia to a 90deg bracket (bolted to the fiberglass body), remove those 4 bolts.

Good luck!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Travis Graham []
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 8:30 PM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] rear fascia removal
> So, from those who 
> have been there and done that, what does it REALLY take to remove the 
> rear fascia (and everything that it's attached to) in order to get to 
> the back of the engine?


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 13:52:43 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Things I'm bringing to Memphis.

Hi All

I've just been to Halfords and picked up some stuff to pass on to you 
guys in Memphis. Not looking to make any money, just want to give you a 
flavour of the products we have here. Please jsut grab me if you want 
anything below:

5 packets of rear view mirror fixing pads, two per pack. $3 for two

ONE Complete set of Auto-Glym interior care products $40 comprises:
Leather Cleaner
Leather Care Cream
Vinyl and Rubber Care
Fabric and upholstry cleaner (for all the carpets).

ONE washer bottle pump, new $12

3 bottles of Black Trim Wax (fan-tas-tic stuff for louvers, engine 
cover, all visible parts of the underbody, and the black bits of the 
fascias) $10 per bottle. This is what the Black trim wax did for my 
louvers (engine vents untouched - shows the contrast. This was taken 
last october and it shows no signs of fading)

I also hoped to pick up some tyre dressing, but they were out of stock.

Rich, James and I fly out tomorrow morning at 10:15am GMT. We arrive in 
Atlanta at 17:41 local time, where we pick up the hire car (convertible 
Camero or similar) and drive to Knoxville to meet up with Aaron's convoy.

See you all there!



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