From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1071
Date: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:18 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean Hood w/ Gas Flap
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

2. Vendors and Toby-TABs
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>

3. Memphis
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

4. Re: Coolant system help plz!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. RE: Vendors, new product development...
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

6. Re: simple question - hood dome light connector
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

7. RE: Alabama DeLorean Dealers
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool_at_dml_attbi.com>

8. Re: Vendors and Toby-TABs
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

9. slight idle problem and acceleration noise
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. machined wheels and ground effects
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:59:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Hood w/ Gas Flap

Nope, but I do seem to recall from the movie that there is a gas flap in
the same location:

http://www.monkeyview.net/dakotademo(at)hotmail.com/default/truckster1.jpg

-Christian

On Tue, 11 Jun 2002 Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com wrote:

>
>
>     I'm having a chest operation later this week. I received a Blockbuster
> Gift Basket from my old fraternity brothers as get well soon present. One of
> the DVD's in the basket was National Lampoon's Vacation.
>     Does the Station wagon that they drive in "The Family Truckster" have an
> early 1981 DeLorean hood painted green?
>
> Best Wishes,
> Michael
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:40:27 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Vendors and Toby-TABs

After my last post was twisted around so badly I should know better, 
but what the heck.

First, I do not consider Marty, Darryl or any other owner not solely 
in the parts business to be a "vendor". Marty was a gentleman when he 
could have made money off of me, as was Darryl. Both offered advice 
on their products when they didn't have to, which allowed me to 
duplicate them at a lower cost. My hats off to such people, they are 
an asset to D owners everywhere. I will use them in the future, even 
when I could save money, solely because of this kindness.

Fwiw, I can say that Darryl's door system is a good design. Although
I have never seen one, I have used the actuators in a refined design 
and they work very well. They may not be as stout as solenoids but 
they're adequate to do the job, have tangible benefits over 
soleniods, and I believe their service life will be acceptable. 
My system costs less because it has a lower parts count (no actuator 
mounting brackets for example), but not much, so anyone who thinks 
Darryl is making a killing is just plain wrong. 

>>>how hard could it be to sell 100 sets? Harder than we thought. 
After 5+ months of fairly high visibility on the DML 
we have sold exactly 59 sets.<<<

Toby's bolts. First off, I will say this is as good as it gets, from 
a guy who obviously knows his stuff. (Since I drive his company's 
equipment, I have to trust him.) The properties of Inconel 718 are 
impressive but I question if they are overkill for this application. 
Why not cad NAS or even AN? Why go through all this when NAS is off 
the shelf, much cheaper, and (I would assume) plenty strong enough? 

Toby, care to offer an opinion? Not on costs (your bolts are worth 
it), but on why such overkill? Are you saying that NAS can't handle 
the tensile loads when torquing and not exceed the elastic limit? 
I find that a bit hard to believe. Once installed, the running loads 
are mostly in shear, right? Or is it a SAE vrs metric issue? No 
offense, just curious. 




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:14:33 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Memphis

Leaving solo from Canada in 2 hours for Memphis with a nervous stomach!

Is the radiator bled enough and will it function okay? Clutch okay? Wipers?
The exhaust manifold on the driver's side is noisy when cold - hope it holds
up. Long drive. I should know all the words to every Sinatra song by the
time I get there!

I'm taking a limited quantity of custom printed acrylic cups, just for this
meet. They look great, dishwasher safe - top rack. Holds a full beer. Will
sell them at a very reasonable price.

Look for "18 AGIN" - Ontario plates - should be easy to find - it's a
stainless steel car!

Drive "the dream", carefully ......(as my Mom would say)


Marvin Stein
#17707
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
website: printeddrinkware.com
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
tel:  519-434-1666
fax: 519-434-7071





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:23:41 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant system help plz!

Put a pressure tester on the system and pump it up to a couple of 
pounds. (Make sure there is plenty of coolant in the system). Loosen a 
hose clamp on a hose as high up as you can. You may have to stick a 
screwdriver between the hose and the fitting to let out the air. Let 
the air out until some coolant leaks out. You may have to also do this 
on the radiater. The shrouds are needed to properly direct air through 
the radiater, some owners have noticed that when they had a license 
plate over the grill it caused the car to run hotter. If the radiater 
is plugged up with insects or leaves it will cause the car to run hot 
too. You said you replaced the engine, are you sure the water pump is 
running in the right direction? Maybe the pipes are hooked up wrong? 
Another trick is to drill a 1/8 bypass hole in the thermostat to allow 
air to pass and self-bleed. What you could eventually do is drill and 
tap the thermostat housing and put a screw in it which you could 
loosen to let air out or run a small hose out to the header bottle 
like the self-bleeder system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Welp,
> 
> While tryin to get ready for Memphis, today I decided to flush the 
radiator.
> Since I've done the engine swap, I haven't had any probs out of the 
cooling
> system at all. I just thought it would be a good precaution.  Well, 
now, as
> luck would have it, I apparently have air trapped in the system.  
I've tried
> everything to get the air out, but b/c its a 4.3, I don't have a 
bleed
> screw.  Does anyone have any suggestions for bleeding out the system 
if the
> DeLorean didn't have a bleed screw?    Also, I've heard different 
things
> from good sources about the front air shroud (for lack of a better 
term)
> that covers up the radiator. (not the air dam, but the black cover 
over the
> radiator)  I was wondering if running the car without this would 
help
> cooling, hurt the cooling, or have no effect.  One reliable source 
says the
> DeLorean has to have it to cool properly, another source says there 
are LOTS
> of DeLoreans running around without them and even run cooler without 
it.
> Any advice on either prob would be GREATLY appreciated!  I'm tryin 
to make
> it to Memphis with the D, now I'm kickin myself for messin with it! 
:(
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> Duke
> '94 Chevy 4.3 Vortec conversion
> www.geocities.com/at88mph_1999




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 21:47:53 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: RE: Vendors, new product development...

A few comments - 
If there is trouble to have people pay after a part has been developed, why not make them pay in advance?
I, for one, would have absolutely no trouble with that. I'm one of DMC Houston most satisfied customers, their service and knowledge is great, and lets face it - it is only they who can take the DeLorean on to "another level" based on their warehouse of DeLorean parts. 

Again, I would like to remind people of the poll concerning new re-developed parts.

James, does DMC Houston have plans for a small temperature gadget that could be fitted in the space of the centre console clock? It would be very nice to know the outside temperature. Wide angle mirrors are also a thing that would make the DeLorean more modern.

And the torsion bar issue. Do you have the blueprints/info on how to make these bars or is this info lost?
If it is lost, be sure to get in touch with the retired engineers at Grumman before they pass away. We need this info.

Finally, you have mentioned that a bracket is coming soon, the bracket for holding down the T-panel behind the rear louvers. When will that be ready?

Other than this, can you tell us what other parts DMC Houston are considering to re-manufacture?

Very best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759

Unfortunately unable to attend Memphis :-( But you guys have a great time, you hear! :-)



Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 10:18:01 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Vendors, new product development...

Precisely why I had to smile when Stian mentioned this - it's a great idea
to have people pre-pay to order a part that's being developed, but when it's
time for people to put their money where their mouth is, it's often a
different story.

On things like the switches, door handles, etc - in order to make the cost
reasonable (note that the three aforementioned products actually came DOWN
in price from previous retail), a relatively large minimum order for
production is required. Particularly when you consider how many cars are
left and actively used.

So it becomes a numbers game - how many can you sell, at what price, to get
a return on the investment (at least recovering expenses, preferably making
some money if for nothing else than to have something ELSE remanufactured)?
A lot of stuff doesn't make the cut (yet) based on that.

Stian mentioned the two tank senders, and Martin pointed out that
competition is healthy. In this case, Tankzilla is a fine product, and we
have used them for several years. But the price turns a lot of people off,
and at times, we have had problems with availability (though not very
often). Our tank sender will retail for considerably less than half the
price of Tankzilla, and as we had them manufactured ourselves, availability
shouldn't be a problem for us.

James

>> Why don't some of the vendors do this?
>> Put forward an offer on a part that will be reproduced. Let people
>> pre-order, and hold the credit card on file...so when the part has
>> been reproduced they charge the card and ship it out.
>> This method could boost development time for replacement DMC parts
>> of higher quality...
> 
(SNIP)
> prior to embarking. He didn't ask for a "credit card commitment" up front as
> suggested above, just an indication of interest.  As a vendor for 16 years,
(SNIP)
> support expressed, how hard could it be to sell 100 sets?
> 
> Harder than we thought.  After 5+ months of fairly high visibility on the DML
> we have sold exactly 59 sets.  Many of those who expressed initial support
> never came through with orders.
(SNIP)
> Was it worth putting up close to 6 grand to see so little (less than 1%)
> interest in the TABs?  Not from a business perspective. But we who support the
> hobby the rest of you enjoy will keep doing it.  Or most will.  Its up to you.
> Darryl T.
> Specialty Automotive 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:30:15 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: simple question - hood dome light connector

I have a little tool I bought at a hardware store...Kind of like a 2 foot 
snake with little tiny claws on the end which is great for retrieving objects 
that you drop and teeter on impossible sections of the car...Maybe something 
like that could reach down and grab it....Kind of like the claw/crane game at 
an arcade only you dont need quarters....this tool cost me about $3 and has 
saved me several times from having a small nut or bolt disappear into the 
bowells of the PRV.

Mike C
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:40:44 -0500
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Alabama DeLorean Dealers

Here you go, Robert G.


Royal Oldsmobile 
3010 Columbiana Road
Birminham, AL  35216
205-823-3100

Royal Chevrolet
601 Washington Street
Hunstille, AL  35804
205-539-6541

Cobb-Kirkland Motor Co. (Cadillac/Pontiac/Mazda)
2820 Eastern Blvd.
Montgomery, AL  36101
205-277-3480



> Robert G. wrote: 
>
> Hi List,
> 
> If anyone has a list of past DeLorean dealers, could you
> please pass along a list of the DeLorean dealers that were
> in Alabama?
> 
> I'm very curious to know if they have any old parts and stuff
> still lying around!
> 
> Thanks,
> Robert G.

 





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 00:10:55 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Vendors and Toby-TABs

Actually, the TAB's are loaded up in a combination of shear and 
bending ... the bending is what kills them.  As far as NAS or AN spec 
bolts (these are government specification bolts - sort of generic 
aerospace standard fasteners), the main challenge is the metric 
diameter.  The SAE equivalent is approximately a double oversize 7/16 
inch bolt, which is hard to come by, especially in the lengths we 
need.  You can get decent A286 CRES material with these standards, but 
the size represents a real problem IF you want a proper fit in terms 
of diameter.  You can put a standard size 7/16 inch bolt in there, but 
it will be very sloppy - and bad IMHO.  The inconel 718 is a bit of an 
overkill, with a margin of 50% over the OEM bolts (at least), but 
you'll never have to give it a second thought.  The 747 airplane has 
four independent hydraulic systems, plus a spare just in case, but 
only needs two systems for safe flight.  Overkill?  It depends on who 
you ask.  The guy maintaining the systems probably thinks so, but the 
pilot probably thinks that five is just right.  But ... I digress.  I 
hope that makes sense.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "checksix3" <checksix3_at_dml_j...> wrote:

> Toby's bolts. First off, I will say this is as good as it gets, from 
> a guy who obviously knows his stuff. (Since I drive his company's 
> equipment, I have to trust him.) The properties of Inconel 718 are 
> impressive but I question if they are overkill for this application. 
> Why not cad NAS or even AN? Why go through all this when NAS is off 
> the shelf, much cheaper, and (I would assume) plenty strong enough? 
> 
> Toby, care to offer an opinion? Not on costs (your bolts are worth 
> it), but on why such overkill? Are you saying that NAS can't handle 
> the tensile loads when torquing and not exceed the elastic limit? 
> I find that a bit hard to believe. Once installed, the running loads 
> are mostly in shear, right? Or is it a SAE vrs metric issue? No 
> offense, just curious.




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 20:34:22 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: slight idle problem and acceleration noise

Hey all,

thanks to Gary (checksix), i was able to find the problem with my idle not 
kicking down.  my throttle was incorrectly adjusted ever since i bought the 
car in 2000!!  well it kicks down like it should, in fact, the car seems to 
have a lot more kick now than it used to!  i love it!

my only complaint is that the idle is a little random at idle speed.  the 
needle seems to hover around 750 or so, and it moves around all over the 
place randomly from about 450 to almost 1000, then it goes back to 750 for a 
bit, then dances, then back to 750.  i know the engine isn't supposed to be 
super smooth, but seems a little excessive.  what can i do to smoothen things 
out?  i know my engine CAN be better because it used to be until i adjusted 
everything over again.  sometimes it is so erratic my oil pressure never 
drops to 40 like it usually does at idle speed.

also, i've had this problem for a while too - on accelerating in any gear in 
any manner, i hear a noisy vibration sound from the engine between about 2500 
to 2900 RPM.  you can go slow and it starts, or you can go fast, it's there.  
it's quite high frequency, sounds metallic.  it used to sound like air 
whooshing in an odd way, but lately it's sounded abrasive.  it will do this 
upon deceleration too, but it doesn't sound as loud.

any idea what this could be?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 20:37:41 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: machined wheels and ground effects

Hey all,

i am probably going to get new wheels later this year and i was wondering 
what people's thoughts were on the machined finish vs polished finish wheels. 
 durability? how long do they look good?  any problems?  i do not want to get 
powdercoated wheels like grady's because i need to be able to use a brake 
dust cleaner on the wheels to clean them, and i've had it with powdercoated 
wheels and trying to clean them without damaging them.   not only that but 
powdercoated wheels fade with UV damage.  i want something permanantly 
finished!

ALSO i want to get Grady's ground effects kit without the front air dam 
piece.  does anyone have any comments on those?  anyone have any pics?  i've 
seen them once but it was a while ago.  i will be getting them fully dressed 
for installation.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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