From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1081
Date: Thursday, June 20, 2002 8:14 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. remembering Memphis
From: "Walter Coe" <>

2. convex side mirror update
From: "Walter Coe" <>

3. heater question

4. strange start problems
From: "K Creason" <>

5. Memphis
From: "Edward Pryor" <>

6. DeLorean 15" Rear Wheel on ebay
From: "mcookwwi" <>

7. damaged front left fender and good roof wiring harness on ebay
From: "mcookwwi" <>

8. HELP my missing camera

9. Congeneration Corp
From: "erikgeerdink" <>

10. Re: purpose of relay

11. RE: 3 things appeared
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

12. RE: Memphis AC problem
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

13. Re: 3 things appeared
From: "erikgeerdink" <>

14. RE: The BTTF DVD Box Set
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

15. One Engine misfires two pistons
From: "treehouse2000us" <>

16. Date Correction DeLorean Car Show 2004

17. Re: raffle too long

18. trans specs

19. Things I took to Memphis.
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

20. Memphis, TABs, and raucous applause (longish)
From: Noah <>

21. Re: heater question
From: "Walter Coe" <>

22. Re: strange start problems
From: "Walter Coe" <>

23. Re: Water Leaks
From: "dmc6960" <>

24. Re: Re: DeLorean font
From: "Mike Aninger" <>

25. RE: 3 things appeared
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 21:11:15 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: remembering Memphis

For those who didn't attend but read the DML flames & gossip, you will enjoy
this story:

At the awards ceremony, James Espey gave his expected speech that he gives
at all such shows.  This time he related a story about two young boys who
wanted to ride in a DeLorean.  He told the story with such love & enthusiasm
that he almost started tearing up over about how sweet it was to grant the
kid's request.  Then just has he was ready to change the subject, Daniel
Deutsch (of fame) anonymously shouts out, "How much did you
charge them?"  That was the best laugh of the entire event.  Even James had
to laugh at himself over that one.  Daniel has this amazing gift for
extemporaneous comedy when you least expect it.

It was so much fun finally being able to match names with faces.  One guy
said, "I read your column."  Okay, so I have a reputation for Walt-length
posts!  :-)  I must apologize for getting so confused trying to remember who
is who.  A typical conversation went, "Remember me?  You help me with
such-n-such on my car."  I have answered so many posts that most of them
kind of blur together into distant memories.  No one looked like how my
mind's eye pictured them, and the same went for what people thought about

Luckily I had no breakdowns on the trip other than my FanZilla spazzing out,
a broken upper speedometer cable, a slipping a/c belt due to my compressor
bearing going bad & oiling the belt.  Also had another intermittantly
sticking thermostat that caused the engine to typically run at 220F.  And I
previously replaced that not long ago!

I took plenty of photos which are still being developed.  I'll get the
negatives scanned soon and posted to the web.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 21:11:18 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: convex side mirror update

My convex side mirror project made its so-called official debut at the
Memphis show.  There is no shortage of people who want them, but the only
problem is making them.  It isn't easy.  Paying to have only a few hundred
produced is cost prohibitive, so I have had some success at buying new
larger mirrors and cutting them down by hand.  This is what you saw on my
car and at Ed Uding's table (DMC Service / Netherlands) at the outdoor
vendor's area.

So far I have invested several hundred dollars, made a few good mirrors and
broke one heck of a lot of glass.  And breaking 3 mirrors just hours before
leaving for Memphis, I was one of the luckiest guys there.  I won 4 raffle
prizes including a Sunstar model (like I really need a 4th one :-) a
DeLorean throw/wall hanging and a Zilla tool kit.

So about breaking mirrors -- There are two kinds of glass that I can buy.
The successfully cut & shaped mirrors were of a different kind of glass that
I could cut using a wet diamond bandsaw and grinder.  But they don't use
that kind of glass anymore and it is hard to find.  And even then each
mirror takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete.  The new glass is even more
hard & brittle and cracks through the middle before I can shape it.  That
was the broken glass with the masking tape pattern also on display at Ed's

So I am back to the drawing board per se.  The next thing to try is cutting
the glass using a high pressure jet of water spray ran by a CNC machine.  If
I can make this process work, then the price is going way down and I'll be
only wholesaling to the DeLorean vendors.  Also I am looking into other ways
to cut the mirrors without breaking them.  The mirror that I start with
costs $11, so it really hurts to break one.  And I've broken way more
mirrors than I finish.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, let me know.  Until then, I still
have some old easy-to-shape glass, but there isn't much left to be had in a
size big enough to cut down.  I'm obviously not doing this to make any
money.  What I get out of it is making something that will become part of
someone's DeLorean that will make it a safer car to drive.  And that is a
reward in itself.

Drive safe,
Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 23:37:31 EDT
Subject: heater question

Now that temperature's are nearing a 100 degrees in some parts of the country 
I thought I would ask a timely question about the heating system in the 
Delorean....After all, winter is only 4-5 months away :-) My heater never 
seems to blow hot air...not even warm....I have read many posts on the topic 
but could not find an answer....I usually start with the simplest approach 
(ignore the problem, turn up the radio) and work my way up to extreme 
solutions (get a new Delorean)...I was thinking the problem was the heater 
(hot water) control valve...mine just seems old and very stiff to press 
in.....How can I tell if this part is why I get no heat in the winter....I am 
getting some coolant repairs done and thought this was a good time to replace 
this part since it is tied into the cooling system.....

Is there a list of 3 or 4 things to check in order of likelihood of a 
Don't be surprised if I ask how to get my A/C fixed in January...

Mike 2109

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 22:56:17 -0500
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: strange start problems

Hey group-
I've got my sticky-idle fixed. I loosened the three throttle spool bolts and
pulled it out to the back and tightened down. Unfortunately it was too much
and I had to twist out the linkage one full turn and then it lined up
properly, returned to full stop and no longer stuck at 1500 rpms. Way cool!
thanks for the advice, one and all.
I also checked my plugs while I was back there. The ceramic was yellowing
and the gap was worn way past the .028". Combine that with cracking the
ceramic while pulling out the first one (just to check it, mind you) and
it's time to replace them all. Thanks John, for the quick shipment. It's
running lots smoother-- I hope my mileage increases too.
But, I've still got a starting issue. The start problem only strikes when
the car has been sitting out in the sun for several hours. It's ok in the
semi-cool garage all night, sometimes ok at lunch, but usually a problem at
the end of the day.
It turns over and coughs and coughs. I do this several times-- trying
feathering the gas pedal, holding halfway down, turning the key all the way
off for a few seconds. Then finally, it will cough and sputter and slowly
get steady and climb up the tachometer to where I can give it gas without
choking it out.
My battery is 3-4 years old, but seems to be ok. I probably should put a
meter on it and check it, just to be sure.
But I keep thinking it's a fuel delivery problem because it really seems to
be related to sitting in the sun for a longer period of time-- like possibly
fuel is being evaporated out of the system and it only starts after building
pressure back up. But I really don't know if that's a plausible scenario or
Help? What to look at and check first?



Message: 5
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 00:38:20 -0500
From: "Edward Pryor" <>
Subject: Memphis

     Thanks Ken K. for another GREAT Delorean Show.  I just went for the 
Saturday event and was amazed at the turn out.  Unfortunately at age 22 I am 
still not yet a Delorean owner.  I did however buy a Sunstar Delorean at the 
show and I must say it is cool.

Thanks again for the awesome show Ken and I am looking forward for 2004.

MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 06:17:36 -0000
From: "mcookwwi" <>
Subject: DeLorean 15" Rear Wheel on ebay

I ran into this while looking around ebay:


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 06:19:37 -0000
From: "mcookwwi" <>
Subject: damaged front left fender and good roof wiring harness on ebay

Can anyone buy this and fix it up? I would get it but wouldn't have a 
clue how to fix it properly.

here is the wiring harness:


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 04:17:59 EDT
Subject: HELP my missing camera

in all the hustle and bustle of putting on a show I have misplaced my digital 
It was an Olympus digital camera

If you found it would you please contact me 
I thought it was on stage with my stuff but have not been able to locate it 
yet and I think it got lost 



Message: 9
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 11:47:38 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <>
Subject: Congeneration Corp

Does anyone on the list know any information about the Congeneration 
Corp.?  There is a stock certificate on eBay right now (stock #1)that 
is signed by the president, John Z. Delorean.  ust wondering what 
this company was all about and if it had anything to do with our cars.



Message: 10
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 08:34:33 EDT
Subject: Re: purpose of relay

Gus, When starting the car and everything is right, the voltage will drop to 
about 10.25 volts. If you run the voltage thru the complete resistor you will 
have more voltage drop and harder to start the car. So: This relay transfers 
the voltage from the solenoid to the left side of the resistor cutting out 
1/2 of the resistor during starting for more starting power.  Some cars 
didn't have the relay, the solenoid wire was hooked directly to the left side 
of the resistor. Either way it will work. On My special HV coil and resistor, 
I go directly to the right side of the resistor, which again gives me more 
starting power. 
John hervey

<< Can anybody tell me the purpose and part number for the silver colored 
relay that is located 
 back of the engine on the firewall about 8 inches left of the ignition 


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 08:41:54 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: 3 things appeared

2. Do you have a updated clutch line?  or the orig plastic one?

3. Common problem with old dry ignition wires.  A good way to double check this is in a DARK garage, start the car and mist some water over the engine (with a spray bottle).  You will probably see sparks jumping between the wires and engine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: erikgeerdink []
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 1:00 PM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] 3 things appeared

> 2. after my car warms up it grinds when shifting into 5th.  This 
> never happens when the car is cold. 
> 3. One the way there and back it rained a couple of times.  I noticed 
> that while it was raining, my car would hesitate a bit when 
> accelerating.  It only rained while I was on the highway, and 
> everytime it would cause my car to hesitate.  It was like the jerking 
> a car gets when you powerwash an engine.  Once it stopped 
> raining...the problem went away.  I haven't checked anything out on 
> my D yet.  I thought I would post here first to see what you guys 
> think.


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 08:50:13 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: Memphis AC problem

Id be VERY CAREFUL with this.  Drill in the wrong place, and you could drill though your heater core or AC evaporator.

Have you tried a shop vac on the end of the drain hose?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: []
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 8:04 PM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] Memphis AC problem
>       Everything was fine until my AC drain line got plugged 
> up(again).  When 
> I came home I removed both seats and carpet sections before 
> it started to get 
> musty in there.     I can unclog the drain with compressed 
> air but then it 
> clogs back up within and hour.  I talked to Don Steger in 
> Memphis and he said 
> that it can be fixed without removing the entire box.  He 
> said to buy a 2 
> inch hole cutter and cut out a hole in the bottom of the evap 
> box so you can 
> reach in and remove all of the junk.  I think I might do this 
> tomorrow but 
> before I start I need to know where I should drill this 2" 
> hole...  I don't 
> want to cut anything inside the box.  Has anyone on the list 
> performed this 
> operation?  Any info would be greatly appreciated.


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 13:12:55 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <>
Subject: Re: 3 things appeared

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 2. Do you have a updated clutch line?  or the orig plastic one?

I have the upgraded SS line, installed by Marty Maier and Micah Fryman
> 3. Common problem with old dry ignition wires.  A good way to 
double check this is in a DARK garage, start the car and mist some 
water over the engine (with a spray bottle).  You will probably see 
sparks jumping between the wires and engine.

I also have brand new wires.  They were installed about 1200 miles 

Any other ideas????

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 09:14:35 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: The BTTF DVD Box Set

I'll follow up with DeLorean thread...

Anyone think we can make a few bux renting our cars for display at stores selling the new DVD?  I remember a promotion like this when BTTF 1 came out on video tape.  Some of the local video stores had DeLoreans parked out front..

Does anyone have a contact for the distributor so we can offer our services?  :)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Travis Goodwin []
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 11:19 AM
> To: ''
> Subject: [DML] The BTTF DVD Box Set
> Universal has announced its US release for December 17, 2002.
> [MODERATOR NOTE: This is an element of genuine news.  Please 
> do not follow up with BTTF speculation and commentary.  
> -Moderator Mike Substelny]
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:09:30 -0000
From: "treehouse2000us" <>
Subject: One Engine misfires two pistons

Hello all DMC owners and JZD fans.  This is my first posting, where 
are my mannors, I'm Tommy/18 from Northern Maine.  I personally can 
see modifing a DeLorean, but the standard PRV engine is powerful 
enough, not to mention the crazy idea of installing two of them.  If 
you think the original istn powerful enough, take out the engine and 
put it yourself.  Lately a guy posted something about driving a 
delorean with only a couple of 1000 on it, and the good people of 
this list fully encouraged him to drive the dream right out of his 
car.  Hey, I dont own a DeLorean yet, and I have no problem sticking 
ten or so thousand miles a year on it when I purchase mine later this 
summer, but then again I expect to buy a beater with about 70,000 
miles on the oddo.  Your crazy talk is about to ruin an irreplaceable 
automobile.  If I bought a DeLorean with less than 10,000 miles, I 
would never drive it, not one miles.  You might say thats not living 
the dream, but is it worth ruining JZD's dream over a few trips to 
the super market.  I think not.

My advice to that guy, stick it in your garage.  The car is already 
20 years old, and why does it still exist in the condition its in, 
because of the miles.  In  another 20 years, more than 1000 DeLoreans 
will be rotting, sorry, sitting in a junk yard for eternity (forgot 
its stainless) because of too many miles, or car crashes.   I like 
JZD, and met him in person years ago, but let the car last longer 
than the creator.  You must know someone with the heartake of a 
parrent outliving their child.

Thanks so much, and sorry for the ciritizism, I truely love the car 
and have obsessed about it for years.
                            Thomas Porter


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 10:49:48 EDT
Subject: Date Correction DeLorean Car Show 2004

I think I am still out of it after Memphis 
the Dates for the show are Thursday June 17 thru Sunday June 20th 2004 
I was looking at the Cincinnati dates and my sons Graduation dates when I 


2004 is June 17-20th 

my son Graduates on the 10th so
sorry for the confuslion 
its always on the third weekend in June



Message: 17
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 11:49:19 EDT
Subject: Re: raffle too long

I agree with your raffle comment.

I got more stuff for the second raffle than I ever dreamed.  My kids 
accidentally raffled off most of Saturdays stuff on Friday which is why 
Friday was so long. The vendors came to my resuce for Saturday and I had more 
stuff than I had origonally collected.  Again thank you Vendors

Don Steger donated a lot of stuff also but we did not raffle it because of 
the time so I think its appropriate here to say Thank you Don Steger For your 
Support from DeLorean Motor Center.  Don was quite a background supporter at 
the show and I am glad to be a good friend of Don's.

My special thanks to all of you vendors.

Dave Swingles coments that the raffle is the only thing not soley supported 
by the show is accurate.  All other aspects of the show are self sufficient 
but being a new show we needed to generate some cash flow.    For the next 
show I plan to do one raffle.
This is fairer to the vendors,  I feel anyway. 

I will also at the same time have a few choice items that will be auctioned.  
I think that is a good compromise.  

While its two years away June 17-20, 2004 its difficult to run raffles 
because you never know what you are going to get until last minute and on 
stage to know whom it is from is nearly impossible sometimes. 

The raffle also takes time and its tough to keep interest as you stated.

I am going to publish later a bunch of changes I am going to make and one of 
them is to have only one raffle.  This would be a lot easier on me and I 
think all of you would appreciate it.  I am expecting from initial 
indications at least the same size of event as was in Memphis.

This is my first time doing an event of this size and it was a real trip let 
me tell you.
Overallthings went well but my time was fully occupied and I would like to 
enjoy the next show along with you .

I also say I am overwhelmed by the comments and the e-mails I have received 
both on the DML and private e-mails.  Thank you.

If a long raffle is your worst complaint
I am grateful

Hope you all had a great time 
I need to recover
I am really burned out still 

Thank all of you for attending



Message: 18
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 16:22:42 GMT
Subject: trans specs

what is the 3 speed auto transmission?

engine is the volvo configured renault v6
as used in the 1981 Volvo 262 right?

is the transmission Volvo too?



Message: 19
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 17:31:20 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Things I took to Memphis.

Hi All

I just wanted to let you know what happenned to all the items I took 
with me last week.

1) Rear view mirror sticky pads. John Hervey now has a small stock. Marc 
Levy now has his rear view mirror securely attached... (you MUST remove 
all remnants of the old pad from both windscreen and mirror mount. Use 
denatured alcohol (methelated spirits) to clean both surfaces. Adhesion 
is then instant).
2) Auto-Glym car-care products. John Hervey took these off my hands. He 
is trying them out for himself and will investigate becoming a US 
distributor if he likes them.
3) Rob Grady now has a limited supply of new Auto Tranny filters.
4) ...and a new stash of washer bottle pumps
5) Black Trim Wax. I sold all three bottles in Knoxville. Jeremy 
discovered you shouldn't use it in the sun (never had a problem in 
England, surprise surprise) - I'm interested in what others thought of 
it? Made by Car Plan
6) Seat covers.... everyone who saw the sample I had seemed very 
positive. It was made by the company in Belfast responsible for trimming 
the car originally. It's a full leather replacement for re-skinning the 
whole seat (not just a cover). I will be getting my seats back next 
week. Here are some before and after photos of both grey and black 
seats, plus my black binnacle, done in a matching modern black PVC. (500k)

Rob Grady now has this sample seat cover and I'm leaving it to him to 
communicate directly with the company in Belfast. Hassle him if you want 
some :-)



Message: 20
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 12:29:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Noah <>
Subject: Memphis, TABs, and raucous applause (longish)

Aside from being a little crispy around the edges (I forgot to put suntan
lotion on my nose. Face yes, nose no. And my brane hasn't fully integrated
"receding hairline" into it's worldview. And so, I shall peel.), Memphis
was a blast. Even my GF (the one with the blond and pink hair that
everyone (including Elvis!) *had* to touch =) ), who isn't into cars all
*that* much says she had fun, and is now jonesing for pigeon forge
(although I suspect that's due at least in part to her desire to run the
Dragon on her new motorcycle.)

Things learned:

Pay attention to the little gremlins; if they're there, they're not going
away, and they have a nasty habit of turning into larger gremlins with
claws, teeth, and a really bad attitude.

When I started my D up for the memphis run, the tach (but not the engine)
spiked to like 9k RPM, then settled down almost immediately to the correct
location. The run to memphis was without incident. While /in/ memphis, I
go to start the car thursday morning, and it won't start. Dash lights,
yes; cranking, no. "Well, that's unfortunate," says I. Got the car bump
started, and I chalk it up to one of the doors being left ajar all night
(further investigation with have revealed that the courtesy light fuse had
previously been pulled by yours truly to prevent such an occurance. I've
been putting off that BrainRAM upgrade for far too long, it seems.) The
rest of memphis was without incident.

On the way /back/, I notice that the tach is spiking all over the place.
We stop for food. After food, car won't start. Car is re-bump started, and
off we go, tach still spiking wildly. A couple of hours later, we spot a
couple of NC DMCs a little way up the road, and accelerate to catch up.
They pull off shortly thereafter and, since I need gas anyway, I followed.
Filled my tank up, and discover I'm dead in the water again. Grand.
Wandered up to the restaurant where the other D owners and gone, and met
Bill Lane (hi, Bill!) who was a) willing to help and b) had a DMC Joe
Assistance account (note that I bought mine yesterday. Hi, Joe!) attempted
a few things, failed to get anywhere, and managed to get a hold of Joe who
was en route someplace and *still* willing to take a few minutes and try
and help me over the phone. "Sounds like a bad ground," says he. At his
suggestion, ran jumpercables from the negative battery terminal to one of
the bolts securing the passenger seatbelt buckle to the frame. Bingo, car
starts. The rest of the trip home, the tach is behaving, and no further
problems were encountered.

What Happened

Two days before departing for memphis, I finished swapping in my TOBYTABs,
including replacing the bushings.  The negative line from the battery
grounds to the frame by attaching itself to one of the bolts securing the
passenger side TAB bushing to the frame. Overzealously applied
grease/locktite/anticorrosion compound (I haven't had a chance to get
under the car to determine which), or (possibly) a broken wire killed the
negative ground. Moral: Be careful when you do your TABs, you may disable
your electrical system. Moral2: AlwaysAlwaysAlways carry jumper cables; I
always keep a pair in each car I own... right after I have to go out and
buy a set because my car's dead. I'll learn on of these days, really.
Moral3: if you haven't already, find the carcare course at your local
community college. I don't expect to be able to pull and rebuild and
engine (yet), but this problem was something I should have known how to
fix, darn it. I'm hunting for those classes now.

Big thanks (BIG! HUGE!) go out to Bill Lane, who was cool enough to sit
there with me and try and come up with possible solutions, and who
actually drove me up to the Wal-Mart (man, those things are *everywhere*)
to get jumper cables. Megathanks also to DMC Joe, who pulled his RV off
the highway to help out someone who hadn't (at the time) paid for his
services. Finally, although it's been said half a bazillion times (both
on-list and off), thanks to Ken for putting on the Memphis show. We had an
utter blast.



Message: 21
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 12:01:06 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: heater question

> I was thinking the problem was the heater
> (hot water) control valve...mine just seems old and very stiff to press
> in.....How can I tell if this part is why I get no heat in the winter....


An easy first thing to check is to grab hold of the pipes running into the
heater core and see if they are getting hot.  This will tell you if it is a
coolant circulation problem or an in-the-dash problem.



Message: 22
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 12:34:01 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: strange start problems

> It turns over and coughs and coughs. I do this several times-- trying
> feathering the gas pedal, holding halfway down, turning the key all the
> off for a few seconds. Then finally, it will cough and sputter and slowly
> get steady and climb up the tachometer to where I can give it gas without
> choking it out.


There are two easy things to check first before you get into more complex

First, listen for the Frequency Valve buzzing.  This is a noise that you
should become very familiar with.  If it isn't buzzing then check that the
valve is getting ground and check that the plug to it is not corroded.  If
it still isn't buzzing then you can force it on by jumpering the socket for
the RPM relay to help locate the problem.

Second, make sure you are getting 12 volts to the Control Pressure
Regulator.  Check if it has a corroded connection or is otherwise not
getting power.

I hope this doesn't sound too technical.  Let us know what you find.



Message: 23
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 17:58:42 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <>
Subject: Re: Water Leaks

Dave, I believe it was you who pointed out to me that the metal clips 
in the inner weather strip bow outward over time and need to be 
pushed back together.  You did that to the problem area on top of the 
A-pillar on my car hopeing it would solve my problem.  Well as I 
found out on the sunday morning rain in Memphis, it didn't.  I looked 
over it more carefully and found an actual HOLE in the fiberglass in 
the water channel.  It was formed by a series of inperfections in the 
fiberglass, along with strain cracks most likely caused from hands 
hanging from that corner.  I suggest you go over this area very 
carefully in your car.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960  <- Memphis 40,000-50,000 Daily Driver Winner. (Now with 
50,500 miles)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> My souvenir of Memphis was a reminder of my continued inability to 
> find the water leak that bugs me every time I drive in the rain 
> every car show). It doesn't happen all the time. Going INTO 
Memphis - 
> no leaks. Coming out - after about 1/2 hour in the rain, I get a 
> that seems to come from the left knee pad and lands on my left 
> Only when slowing down, (like it collects in the knee pad and then 
> falls out on deceleration). 
> When I got home a ran a hose all around the area - nothing. I 
> suspected the hood stop/wiper opening, but upon further 
> those are in the wrong place for where I'm getting wet. It seems to 
> me that to collect in the knee pad it would HAVE to be coming in 
> through the door seal.
> Any ideas? Inner door seals are new (it was a LOT worse with the 
> ones). Outers are original but in decent shape.
> Dave Swingle


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:01:54 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean font

Could you tell us exactly what the address is for "DMC Daddy's" web page is?
----- Original Message -----
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 7:47 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean font

> Be careful, There are 2 seperate DeLorean fonts out there that have their
> variations. Different "t" "L"& "R" characters if I remember correctly.
> Daddy's" webpage offers the correct one for download I think. Check the
> section.
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"

[moderator snip]


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:09:30 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: RE: 3 things appeared

Just because they are new, does not mean they are good..

If one of the wires are rubbing on something, it could wear though the insulation.  That is why on some hi-po cars you see the ignition wires wrapped in sheath.  Inspect the wires, and try the mist test.  Also spray the mist around the distributor, see if you have arching.  It is hard to see, but you may even hear the sparks jump.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: erikgeerdink []
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 9:13 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: [DML] 3 things appeared
> > 3. Common problem with old dry ignition wires.  A good way to 
> double check this is in a DARK garage, start the car and mist some 
> water over the engine (with a spray bottle).  You will probably see 
> sparks jumping between the wires and engine.
> I also have brand new wires.  They were installed about 1200 miles 
> ago.
> Any other ideas????



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to