From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1098
Date: Monday, July 01, 2002 8:38 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Lock module
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

2. Eastern Connecticut Car Show.
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

3. Sunstar delorean
From: "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Sunstar delorean
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

5. Re: Sunstar delorean
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Re: Lock module
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

7. Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

8. Re: Fw: DeLorean scam on the loose.... beware.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Erratic idle speed
From: Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Sunstar delorean
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

12. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore_at_dml_fidelity.com>

13. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

14. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

16. Re: PROJECT DELOREAN : NEW HOME, NEW SITE
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Three cheers for Bosch!
From: "_designer_" <_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Erratic idle speed
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Erratic idle speed
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

20. RE: DeLorean Car Show Merchandise
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 13:32:31 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Lock module

> There are many things that need to be done to the car's electrical
> system (things that go beyond the well known fixes) to make it less
> of a toaster in the making.

Gary,

Since you are a pilot you will probably have something to say about this:

I have always admired how airplanes have the wiring protected with panels of
reset-able breakers instead of fuses that blow.  Despite cleaning my once
pristine fuse block and replacing many of the fuses, after the hours of
continuous driving from Tampa to Memphis & back, my fuse block has several
melted spots -- even two of the 10 amp ones!  I would rather put a nice
replacement panel in there than have a tangle of pig-tail fuses as is the
vendor standard for repair.  What do you think about making a panel using
CB's?  They do things like this in airplanes because they can't afford to be
"stranded" in the air.  But I don't like the idea that I could get mugged
while broke down in a bad neighborhood in a high-profile car.

Walt




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 22:14:37 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Eastern Connecticut Car Show.

Running July 19-21. THe Annual Eastern CT Antique and custom car show 
usually draws hundreds of cars of all makes and models, and thousands 
of people. Last year the was a grand total of ZERO Deloreans! Lets 
try to do something about it folks! We need to show these people that 
the DMC-12 is a real car! So anyone and everyone from the New England 
Area is welcome, naye, ASKED to come and show off your Delorean.

The big day is normally Saturday. (July 20) There is also a Classic 
Auto Auction. So if you want to buy or sell a classic vehicle, this 
is the place to do it! More info will come with updates.

What: Annual Eastern CT Antique and Custom Auto Show
When: July 19-21
Where: Norwich Navigators Ball park (Yankees Minor league team) 
Norwich, CT.

Who: Contact me for more info. Gr8old1(AT)aol.com
Why: Becuase my poor butt broke down on my way to Memphis!
ANd last year, NO Deloreans were present!

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT.
http://www.88-mph.com





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 18:42:09 -0000
From: "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Sunstar delorean

I need to know how to adjust the door on my sunstar delorean and i 
need some ideas on how to customize my sunstar delorean. i went to 88-
mph.com and they were down

John
Vin#2030 




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 20:55:44 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar delorean

i just checked and they were up for me.
http://www.88-mph.com/

later
mark

deloreanman7777 wrote:

> I need to know how to adjust the door on my sunstar delorean and i
> need some ideas on how to customize my sunstar delorean. i went to 88-
> mph.com and they were down
>
> John
> Vin#2030
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 06:10:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar delorean

--- "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>I need to know how to adjust the door on my sunstar delorean and i 
>need some ideas on how to customize my sunstar delorean

To adjust the doors remove the 6 screws from underneath the car. This releases the metal body from the plastic "chassis." Carefully separate the two. On the Ceiling of the passenger compartment there are 3 screws... tighten them, and your doors should stay up :-). As far as customizing, I've raised the ride height of my front end so it matches my car :-).
Louie Golden
#10115 Sanford, NC

_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com

_____________________________________________________________
Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with email_at_dml_yourgroup.org by Everyone.net  http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 07:46:23 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Lock module

Just to make a comment about the lock module, I have had no problem with mine 
as long as I don't lock the car from the inside. I also use a 15 amp circuit 
breaker so if it did lock up it would trip faster. This was talked about 6 
months ago we talked about it again on the DML. I also replace the relay's in 
the module as I would replace other the relays in the car. Most people buy a 
relay kit, but never replace the lock module relay's and wonder why it 
doesn't work. I'm not condoning it's good or bad, but it just has to be taken 
care of. On my Talk & View page are pictures of two different versions.
John Hervey
  http://www.specialtauto.com/talk-view.shtml



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:27:29 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

Has anyone had any luck running a new clutch line in an alternate route
without removing the old plastic one?

When I read the removal procedures for the clutch pipe I couldn't stop
laughing. Remove the body from the chassis? It had to be a joke...
Apparently it is a joke and a cruel one at that perpetrated upon me by John
himself.

If this truly is the only solution, it looks like my plastic one is gonna
hafta stay where it is for a while longer. 



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 14:14:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: DeLorean scam on the loose.... beware.

It's much worse than you think. It used to be "Buyer Beware". Now it's 
also seller beware. There have been cases of forged bank checks and 
certified checks. Sometimes the buyer only poses and then returns to 
steal the car. Having kept the title only protected the first seller, 
the scammer still got the car and the money from the second sale. 
Seems not having the title didn't keep him from being able to resell 
the car did it? Pity the person who layed out all of that money and 
now doesn't even have a parts car to show for it! When a deal is too 
good to be true it usually is. The moral here is to be very careful in 
buying or selling. Calling a vender with a vin # can get some 
background and history. Get in touch with the locals, someone may know 
the car and it's history. If when selling and you have ANY doubts 
about the buyer check him out. Call his bank, if you have to wait 
until Monday because he shows up on Sunday afternoon with a bank check 
it is better to wait and make sure then to find out the check is 
worthless AND your car is gone. As always Cash is King. Holding the 
title for the balance won't really help. Some of the money you got 
will now go for retrieving the car from NY and fixing any damage that 
was caused since you sold it not to mention the legal hassles that 
will go along with this. It's too bad there are people like this but 
here are always some who try to take advantage of others. Unfortunatly 
this experience is not unique to Deloreans. Another scam is for a 
seller to be knowledgable about a car and is selling off parts, send 
money and he has the exact hard to obtain part just waiting for you to 
send a check but the part never arrives. Try to deal with people you 
know or can trust. Another reason to deal with our Delorean Parts 
venders.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> i have seen this seller selling deloreans on ebay before. he was 
trying to sell a delorean from wisconsin. the original owner had tried 
to sell it on ebay weeks before with no luck because it had needed the 
cylinder heads replaced and he wanted too much money for the car. Sean 
Corbett put an ad on ebay trying to sell the car as needing little 
engine work and asking for even more money.
> 
> good luck on catching him
> mark
> 
> Darryl Tinnerstet wrote:
> 
> > *****  Moderator's Note  *****
> > This seems legitimate.  If you are selling a car - hang on to that
> > title until you get ALL of the money.  If you are buying, ALWAYS
> > inspect the car personally or use a trusted intermediary.
> >
> > It's a jungle out there...
> >
> > Mike G  Moderator of the Week
> >
> > [Note to moderators - I'll let you be the judge of whether you 
want to run this.  I know Dave well enough to believe this, so it 
might be a good idea to let others be aware of what is going on.]
> >
> > The following message was sent to me by a customer/former PNDC 
member from Portland, OR.:
> >
> > >> Remember that I told you I sold my DeLorean.  Well, it turns 
out that the guy who bought it was a scam artist.  The guy posed 
himself as "Sean Corbett".  He was buying fixer-upper deloreans for 
dirt cheap price, then placed them on e-bay as in "mint-condition"... 
car runs smoothly, no problems, etc., and got bids as high as $25,000. 
 When the e-bay buyer finally received the car, it was a piece of 
junk, and the guy vanishes.  Mine ended up on there.  He bought mine 
for $7,000, only sent me $3000 promising he'll send the rest after it 
was on the truck, and never sent me the rest of the money.  I 
outsmarted him by holding on to the title.  The guy who won the bid 
paid $11,800 for it.  The rest was pure profit.  Anyways, he did that 
to 5 other known people so far around the nation, and we have no idea 
where this guy is.  Now I have to go repo this car from New York, and 
the guy who bought it is out $11,800 (plus shipping -- $1300).  His 
name is Peter DeMazio.  He might have called you for parts.
> >
> >   Now the FBI is involved in this case, and I wanted to let you 
know that this guy is still out there scamming people.  Possibly may 
have moved on to other collector cars.  But be on the lookout if you 
hear of anything strange.  Kind of let the DeLorean community know 
that a scam artist is out on the loose.  We are all out to get him, 
but there are no traces of him.  Will keep you posted if we nab him.  
Any leads, clues, or other known victims would help.  By the way, all 
we know is that this guy lives (or used to live) in Scottsdale, 
Arizona.  According to police, he vacated his apartment 2 weeks ago.<<
> >
> > Check out ebay and search item # 1828491619.  I sold mine in 
Auto-Trader asking $8000 as a fixer-upper, needs work, and this guy 
turns around and does this.  The pictures are even all fake, copied 
from other ads.
> > Dave T.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderator_at_dml_d...
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 15:41:12 +0100
From: Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Erratic idle speed

Hi

Got a problem trying to get my car going, starts ok but the idle speed
is all over the place.  When idling it either sits as normal about 900
rpm or runs well high at about 2000, and randomly switches between
them.  When any throttle is applied it splutters lots and attempts to
stall. Initially it has trouble ontaining an idle at all with the air
flow sensor vibrating, and the engine miss firing.

We just replaced all the HT leads today, it was running fine before
that.

Anybody got ideas of what could be up and where to start looking as our
mechanic bloke is off on holiday and we're trying to get it running in
time for a show next week?

Richard (using Martin's email to confuse people)
#2727




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 14:50:14 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar delorean

Welll, My site hasn't had any downtime in ages, but just in case you 
or anyone here can't get to it, here is a summary of the 
instructions. (not quite the same with out photos to guide you!)

1) After removing the car from the Packaging and base, flip the car 
upside down and remove the eight screws using a #1 Phillips 
Screwdriver:

2)Remove the front steering components:

3) Flip the car right-side up and seprate the steering column from 
the dashboard using a straight-slot screwdriver. Do this by placing 
the head of the screwdriver between the instrument binnacle and the 
steering column and twist the screwdriver in a counter-clockwise 
motion to force it down and away from the binnacle :

4) The body will now seperate from the chassis/interior:

5) The 3 screws needed to tighten the doors and louvres are on the 
inside t-panel. 

6) Tighten the screws and test your doors! you should now notice a 
BIG difference in the performance! Re-assemble in the reverse order 
and you'll have a great display piece! Note: The hardest part of 
reassembly will be getting the steering column back into the 
dashboard, the large-tab portion of the turn signal stock must be in 
the up position, reattached to the underside of the intrument 
binnacle.

Jeff Chabotte
http://www.88-mph.com




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 16:55:53 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

The new ones are cut long enough to do just that, they are routed 
along the bottom of the frame. Tie wrap the new line to the A/C hose 
that runs along the bottom of the frame. 

I usually cut (with wire cutters) the old line at one end and just 
yank it out. No harm in leaving it there, I'm just adverse to parts 
that don't do anything. The original line is run higher up on the 
frame. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> Has anyone had any luck running a new clutch line in an alternate 
route
> without removing the old plastic one?
> 
> When I read the removal procedures for the clutch pipe I couldn't 
stop
> laughing. Remove the body from the chassis? It had to be a joke...





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 16:57:02 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore_at_dml_fidelity.com>
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

Hi Travis,
I found it very easy to replace the plastic line with the SS line - I 
simply cut the plastic one in a few places and then it was easy to 
pull it off the car. The only tricky part was when putting the SS one 
on, to try and thread one end of it through that hole in the chassis 
and back out the other hole, at the rear of the frame... but I kept 
at it, and got it through the 2 holes after about 5 minutes. Sorry 
about the bad explination there, but you'll know what I mean when you 
look under the car. Then simply use zip-ties/cable ties to secure the 
line to a few different points along the frame to keep it from 
sagging. Easy!
Where does it say the frame has to be removed to do this job?? On my 
car, the plastic line ran along the bottom of the frame, and was 
clearly visible the whole length of the frame.
Good luck,
John Dore, Boston.VIN #3810.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> Has anyone had any luck running a new clutch line in an alternate 
route
> without removing the old plastic one?
> 
> When I read the removal procedures for the clutch pipe I couldn't 
stop
> laughing. Remove the body from the chassis? It had to be a joke...
> Apparently it is a joke and a cruel one at that perpetrated upon me 
by John
> himself.
> 
> If this truly is the only solution, it looks like my plastic one is 
gonna
> hafta stay where it is for a while longer.




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 17:19:29 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

Travis - It is relatively easy to replace the clutch line without 
removing the body.  I routed my stainless steel braided line alongside 
the coolant pipe on the driver's side of the frame center rail.  A few 
nylon ties here and there to secure it, and you're good to go.  The 
original plastic line can be left in place (don't know why you would 
do that) or pulled out from the front end.  It is easier to cut the 
end off that connects to the joint at the transmission to allow it to 
be pulled through smoothly.  My line goes from the clutch master 
cylinder to the maintenance junction bracket located on the top of the 
transmission, and the original hard steel line goes from there to the 
slave cylinder.  I looked in the Tech section for an article on this 
procedure, and was surprised to find nothing.  Go figure!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
>Has anyone had any luck running a new clutch line in an alternate 
>route without removing the old plastic one?





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 17:39:55 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

The easiest way is to leave the old plastic one right where it is 
(you can clip the ends of it to shorten it and hide it better) and 
run the new braided one along the edge where the chassis and body 
meet. Use zip ties to lock it in place. I would blow out the old 
plastic line just to make sure all the fluid is out and it's clean. 
Otherwise it will just drip out onto the chassis and casue a bigger 
problem (peeling the epoxy coating).

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> Has anyone had any luck running a new clutch line in an alternate 
route
> without removing the old plastic one?
> 
> When I read the removal procedures for the clutch pipe I couldn't 
stop
> laughing. Remove the body from the chassis? It had to be a joke...
> Apparently it is a joke and a cruel one at that perpetrated upon 
me by John
> himself.
> 
> If this truly is the only solution, it looks like my plastic one 
is gonna
> hafta stay where it is for a while longer.




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:38:29 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

Yes, I thought that one was pretty funny myself. I ran my new line right
down the driver's side frame conduit. There's enough room in there to run a
garden hose through it. Just be careful to secure the new line with tie
wraps to prevent any possible "pinching" while the car's in operation.
Remember to hook up the old line to your compressor to blow out all the old
fluid. (that sucker can drip for months if you don't!)
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Goodwin" <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: [DML] Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement


> Has anyone had any luck running a new clutch line in an alternate route
> without removing the old plastic one?
>
> When I read the removal procedures for the clutch pipe I couldn't stop
> laughing. Remove the body from the chassis? It had to be a joke...
> Apparently it is a joke and a cruel one at that perpetrated upon me by
John
> himself.
>
> If this truly is the only solution, it looks like my plastic one is gonna
> hafta stay where it is for a while longer.
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 05:33:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: PROJECT DELOREAN : NEW HOME, NEW SITE

Hi Mike, thanks for checking out the site.  Glad you
liked it.  Regarding the links, there are a few new
ones I have in mind which will make it up to the site
soon.  Also, I'll try to put a few more tips/hints up
there too.  Unfortunately, when mosdt of these
"situations" occur, you're usually too mad to think,
"I'll have to write this up for the website."  But
that really is the purpose of them. I'll have to give
it some thought and get some more up there.  One
reason I may not have as many as others is that I'm
really not restoring the D, I'm doing more
customization, so if an original part breaks, I might
decide to replace it with something else.  (Not really
an option for someone keeping their Delorean
original.)

As a preview, I have the main exhaust piep completed,
painted and wrapped with insualting tape.  I'll be
installing that this week, then finishing up the
Cat/Muffler bracket and tailpipe.  The next thing I
have to do is order some sheet aluminum for
fabricating the heat shields between the cat/muffler
and engine.  Once the exhaust is done, I'll move on to
the new water pipes.  Stay tuned!

Steve
--- Mike Aninger <mike_at_dml_ninja.net> wrote:
> Very nice site, Steve!  User friendly and pleasing
> to the eye.  As and
> aspiring owner (it may take a few years), it's a
> great site to find great
> vendors, get some good tips.  I like the one with
> the elustrius fuel
> destributer ;-).  I'm surprized that those are the
> ONLY problems you have
> encountered!  Will you provide more links as you
> find them, or just stick to
> the ones that you use?  Best of luck and I hope to
> see you in 2004, hopefuly
> in my own D!
> 
> -Mike A.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Stankiewicz" <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:54 PM
> Subject: [DML] PROJECT DELOREAN : NEW HOME, NEW SITE
> 
> 
> > Hi Group, First I'd like to thank everyone who's
> > posted pics from the Memphis show.  Project
> Delorean
> > was far from ready and my schedule just didn't
> permit
> > me to go, but it's been great seeing the shots of
> all
> > the cars.  Thanks again!
> >
> > I'd also like to announce that Project Delorean
> has a
> > new look and a new home.  I was sick of the
> > ever-increasing pop-up ads on Angelfire so I
> finally
> > purchased a domain.  Initially I was just going to
> > migrate the existing site over to the new host,
> but I
> > was tired of the look so I decided to rebuild the
> site
> > as I migrated.  It took longer, but I think you'll
> all
> > agree the new site is better. The new site is at:
> > www.projectdelorean.com
> >
> > Finally, as a quick update, I've been fabricating
> the
> > new exhaust system lately.  It's a 2" / 2 1/2"
> system
> > which follows the original path, retains and
> relocates
> > the cat and exits with a single pipe in the
> center.
> > (Similar to one of the early Delorean prototypes)
> > Check it out at: www.projectdelorean.com
> >
> > Thanks, Steve
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean

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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 17:14:25 -0000
From: "_designer_" <_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Three cheers for Bosch!

After 20 years, the original Bosch spark plug wires looked like 
toast.  The rubber boots were cracked and disintegrated.  I suspected 
that they may not be performing as well as they did when new... so I 
replaced them with a brand new, high-performance set made by 
Kingsborne.  The car runs exactly the same!




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 17:55:14 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed

Loads of things can cause this but here are a few to check since you 
replaced the leads. 
1. Make sure that they are in the proper firing order. Check the 
service manual for the firing order; I don't remember it off hand.
2. Make sure they are all seated properly, what I mean by this is 
that the lead may look connected but it's not making any contact. 
Pull off the leads one by one carefully by the boots and put them 
back on. As you are putting them on do it gently and listen/feel for 
a "click", that will be the metal contact snapping around the spark 
plug. Check at the rotor too...make sure they are seated properly 
also. A quick and dirty way (but safe) to check if you are getting a 
spark to each plug is to connect a timing light to each lead and 
triggering it. If the timing light flashes then you have a spark. 
You are not checking the timing with the light by doing this...only 
checking for a spark going through the leads when the light flashes.
3. make sure that whoever replaced the plugs didn't accidentally 
knock into any other connectors around the area and made them come 
loose.
4. Recheck your timing, if it's off you may have a wire misplaced.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi
> 
> Got a problem trying to get my car going, starts ok but the idle 
speed
> is all over the place.  When idling it either sits as normal about 
900
> rpm or runs well high at about 2000, and randomly switches between
> them.  When any throttle is applied it splutters lots and attempts 
to
> stall. Initially it has trouble ontaining an idle at all with the 
air
> flow sensor vibrating, and the engine miss firing.
> 
> We just replaced all the HT leads today, it was running fine before
> that.
> 
> Anybody got ideas of what could be up and where to start looking 
as our
> mechanic bloke is off on holiday and we're trying to get it 
running in
> time for a show next week?
> 
> Richard (using Martin's email to confuse people)
> #2727




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 18:52:49 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed

Hi Richard.

I'm familiar with the "It worked before I fixed it" phenomenon. Given 
what you've said about the car working before replacing the HT (I'm 
assuming this means high tension, as in spark plug) wiring, it seems 
logical that something might have gone wrong in the exchange. 
Perhaps two of the wires are swapped.  This could easily account for 
any manner of poor or non-running.
If it were my car,I'd start by verifying that all leads were 
reconnected properly, especially checking that they are in the proper 
sequence. If you don't have access to the firing order of the Volvo 
260, I'm sure someone on this list does.  I don't.  If this is what 
the problem is, you probably have not mixed up too many wires, or the 
engine would be likely not to run at all.  Hopefully the problem is 
this fundamental.  If it turns out that the wires ARE correctly 
installed, your problem is more sinister than I can diagnose.  Good 
luck.

When I change my spark plug wiring, I always change one at a time to 
avoid any possibility of mixing them up.  

Please keep in mind that I'm not an expert with the Volvo 260 engine, 
as my Delorean doesn't have this engine in it. I'm just speculating 
from general automotive experience.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
Hi
Got a problem trying to get my car going, starts ok but the idle 
speed is all over the place.  When idling it either sits as normal 
about 900
rpm or runs well high at about 2000, and randomly switches between
them.  When any throttle is applied it splutters lots and attempts to
stall. Initially it has trouble ontaining an idle at all with the air
flow sensor vibrating, and the engine miss firing.
We just replaced all the HT leads today, it was running fine before
that.
Anybody got ideas of what could be up and where to start looking as 
our mechanic bloke is off on holiday and we're trying to get it 
running in time for a show next week?
Richard (using Martin's email to confuse people)
#2727




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:36:30 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Car Show Merchandise

Many DeLorean Vendors and other Sellers (not scammers :-) helped to make
DeLorean Car Show 2002 the great success it truly was.

I've compiled several vendor-related pictures from the show on a new
"Vendors" link in the 2002 Pictures section: 
http://deloreancarshow.com/2002-vendors.html.

In it, you will see items like the recently-mentioned cross-drilled
rotors, the braided stainless steel fuel lines from the wish-list, and
many other parts and memorabilia - including some that were unique to
the show.

At the bottom of the page is a contact list in case you want to purchase
any of the pictured items. 

Gary
www.IN2TIME.com








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