From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1099
Date: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 8:16 PM

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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. The Car I Loved The Most Contest
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. VIN 5386 makes her voyage home
From: "delorean_stainless" <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Transmission
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Erratic idle speed
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. RE: Sunstar DeLorean
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

6. Re: Fw: DeLorean scam on the loose.... beware.
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Fw: DeLorean scam on the loose.... beware.
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

9. Re: Transmission
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Transmission
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. tuff transmission
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

12. Re: Erratic idle speed
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Re: Erratic idle speed
From: Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. JZD on GM, good article
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_mac.com>

15. My Door light is always on
From: "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Windshield Replacement
From: Gleb Remishevsky <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>

17. RE: Re: Erratic idle speed
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 20:43:36 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: The Car I Loved The Most Contest

Parade Magazine (comes in many Sunday newspapers) is having a contest
looking for your favorite car...there's even a way to enter online from
their website at:

http://www.parade.com

Entry deadline is July 15th, 10 winners get $100 each. If one of the 10
winning entries is from a DeLorean owner, we'll also give that person a $100
gift certificate for anything we sell. Let's try and flood them with
"DeLorean-related" entries!

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)

PS - It's limited to 100 words or less - sorry Walt ;-)





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 21:15:58 -0000
From: "delorean_stainless" <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VIN 5386 makes her voyage home

Hey Everyone,

My name is Todd Koehler, I havent posted anything lately but just 
wanted to say that my DeLorean VIN#5386 was delivered as of saturday 
(june30th) By Fred Geerdink. I am buying her from Rich Weissensel. I 
will be setting up a little web site dedicated to her restoration. 
5386 is a project D. I'm very excited to finally have her here and 
start doing some basic inspections and cleaning. I will post some pics 
when Fred sends me them. We have pics of her coming off the trailer 
and her in transport. I'll keep everyone posted as to her progress. 
Once Again Thank you ever so much Rich! Your the best! You made my 
dream come true. And To Fred who braved the Pennsylvania mountains to 
bring my life long dream home to me. Everyone on the group is very 
informative and helpfull and if it wasnt for the DMCNews I would never 
of founf my dimond in the rough. Thank you everyone!!!

Todd Koehler
Vin# 5386




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:26:50 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Transmission

Hello
My transmission, after a little bit of driving, has been giving me trouble. 
After taking it out, and driving it through the gears, reverse, first, and 
sometimes second start to either grind or resist movement into the gear. 
Reverse always grinds after being driven, and first and sometimes second does 
the resisting. We replaced the clutch slave cylinder last year, and it has 
been full with fluid ever since. For the first 15 to 20 minutes the DMC 
shifts fine. Whats going on?

Thanks a lot!
John
4275
(By the by, I went with the BFGoodrich Radial T/A tires with the raised white 
lettering to replace the NCTs. I really like the white lettering on the DMC.)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 16:38:13 -0400
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed

Richard, Be sure to check the Idle speed switch to make sure it's ok. Your also describibg some symptons of the warm up regulator. I saw his email address. ???. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:36:30 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Sunstar DeLorean

> I need to know how to adjust the door on my Sunstar DeLorean

I've created a special kit for adjusting the door tension on Sunstar
DeLoreans.  I call it the "DeLorean Model Car - Door Tension Adjusting
Kit - Sunstar" (DMC-DTAK Type-S).  

The DMC-DTAK Type-S (aka DTAK and Gary-TAK) consists of:
 a) One Multi-Purpose Elastomeric Positioner (M-PEP).
 b) One Type x, Rotational Alignment Positioner (RAPx)
 c) One Type +, Rotational Alignment Positioner (RAP+)

Note: As you will see below, the key to the excellent success rate of
this amazing kit is the inclusion of the M-PEP, and both a RAPx tool and
a RAP+ tool.

Instructions for using the DTAK:
1) Use the M-PEP to hold the doors open.
2) Turn model upside down, but continue holding it.
3) Determine whether the RAPx or RAP+ will fit into the front door
adjusting screw (at the front of the T-panel area.  
4) Rotate the screw clockwise until the desired tension is reached,
until you are unable to rotate the screw any further due to the door
frame limiting the rotation, or until the screw is snug.
5) If additional tightening is required, alternate between the RAPx and
RAP+ to complete the tightening operation.
6) If the screw is snug, and additional tightening is required on one or
both doors, repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 on the screws at the rear of the
T-panel area as required.

You may find that you have difficulty adjusting the rear screws, but
often it is only necessary to adjust the front one, anyway.  An option
for stubborn set-ups is to resort to one of the "frame-off" methods, but
they require extensive disassembly and reassembly, and are prone to
steering column misalignment upon reassembly.

The DTAK has been thoroughly tested, and has been proven to be 100%
effective* and comes with a 100% money back guarantee**.

 * Based on a sample set of 2.
** You must follow the instructions - which do not tell you to remove
the M-PEP.

If the demand is high enough, I will be offering these kits for sale
from the classifieds page of the PNDC site
http://pndc.org/classifieds.htm.

Note: If you would prefer to develop your own kit, you can use a rubber
band (in place of an M-PEP), and bend the tips of two (small-headed,
long-shafted) screwdrivers to 90-degrees (in place of the RAPx and
RAP+).  Make sure the bends are very close to the heads and are offset
45-degrees from each other (see figures A and B).  

Figure A, RAPx:
        ,---------------------------(|||||||||||}
        v

(x)     x --------------------------(|||||||||||}  

Figure B, RAP+:
        ,---------------------------(|||||||||||}
        v

(+)     + --------------------------(|||||||||||}

I would appreciate it if you did not develop these kits for resale to
compete with me, since I anticipate that the demand for DTAK kits may be
quite low.

Gary
www.IN2TIME.com







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 17:43:53 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: DeLorean scam on the loose.... beware.

Apparently the scam is not just on Delorean's. I read on MSNBC.com 
that some guy got hosed for $50,000 for a Porsche that he won on 
eBay. 

The seller told the buyer to put the money into an escrow account 
with a name that the seller would not know so that the seller could 
not take the money but he wanted the buyer to send the seller the 
account number so that he knew that the money had been transferred. 
Then the seller told the buyer that after he got the title/car to go 
back and change the name in the account to the sellers name so that 
he could get the money. This was all done to give the buyer some 
confidence on the transaction. Well the buyer didn't know that the 
name is not what matters it's the account number. If you have the 
right account number and a slow thinking teller you can take the 
money right out and that's exactly what the seller did. Guy never 
got a car and lost $50,000 in the process. 

Tough lesson in life.

Steve

<SNIP>




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 05:50:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: DeLorean scam on the loose.... beware.

An additional tip on protecting yourself anytime
you're selling a vehicle:

I always make up my two bill(s) of sale (one for me
one for the buyer) on the computer and under the lines
for Seller Signature and Buyer Signature, I add lines
for Seller Drivers License Number and Buyer Drivers
License Number.  I fill out my form and he fills out
his. By having these lines already on the form, you
don't have to feel uncomfortable asking to for proof
of identification.  I'm no car dealer, but I've used
this form about half a dozen times and have never had
anyone hesitate to hand over their license info.  Even
this is no guarantee that a true scam artist might not
have false id, but it's some protection.


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 08:36:58 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement

Well, I got a little clarification from Rob Grady on this project. He said
that the paragraph in the repair manual that talks about separating the body
from the chassis to remove the cluth line was mostly for pre-production cars
and that it should be ignored. He also said you guys have got it right. The
new line should run along next to the AC pipe on the underside of the body.
Just zip-tie it there.

Man, you guys get it right every time!

Travis





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 03:34:57 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission

The first things to do are to check the fluid level in the trans and 
then go over the adjustments for the shifter as per the Workshop 
Manual. If these quick and easy steps won't do it then the trans will 
be comming out, something is worn or broken inside like a roll pin. 
Make sure the clutch master and slave aren't leaking and are bled 
of air completly. Do you still have the origional plastic hose going 
from the master to the slave? If you do, replace it with a braided 
steel line.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., BondAtomic_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello
> My transmission, after a little bit of driving, has been giving me 
trouble. 
> After taking it out, and driving it through the gears, reverse, 
first, and 
> sometimes second start to either grind or resist movement into the 
gear. 
> Reverse always grinds after being driven, and first and sometimes 
second does 
> the resisting. We replaced the clutch slave cylinder last year, and 
it has 
> been full with fluid ever since. For the first 15 to 20 minutes the 
DMC 
> shifts fine. Whats going on?
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> John
> 4275
> (By the by, I went with the BFGoodrich Radial T/A tires with the 
raised white 
> lettering to replace the NCTs. I really like the white lettering on 
the DMC.)
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 12:04:49 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission

Do you still have the original plastic clutch line? If so after 
driving some the clutch fluid starts getting warm and begins to 
expand the plastic line. Also what may happen (along with the 
plastic line) is the clutch pedal link is worn (the link that goes 
from the pedal to the master clutch cylinder). Check that out....if 
you have the new updates adjustable one try adjusting it a little.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., BondAtomic_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello
> My transmission, after a little bit of driving, has been giving me 
trouble. 
> After taking it out, and driving it through the gears, reverse, 
first, and 
> sometimes second start to either grind or resist movement into the 
gear. 
> Reverse always grinds after being driven, and first and sometimes 
second does 
> the resisting. We replaced the clutch slave cylinder last year, 
and it has 
> been full with fluid ever since. For the first 15 to 20 minutes 
the DMC 
> shifts fine. Whats going on?
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> John
> 4275
> (By the by, I went with the BFGoodrich Radial T/A tires with the 
raised white 
> lettering to replace the NCTs. I really like the white lettering 
on the DMC.)
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 07:42:15 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: tuff transmission

My transmission has started giving me troubles.  It is beginning to get 
difficult to make the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th.  I am having 
trouble moving the shift lever from left to right and right to left.  This 
morning on my way into work in took 2 hands to shift into 5th.  Any ideas what 
the problem could be?

Thanks
  Willie
  Vin 5043




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 03:44:35 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed

Besides going over the most recent work (assuming that you did 
something wrong) you could have knocked loose a vacuum hose or a wire 
at the front of the motor between the motor and the firewall. It is 
very tight in there and is easy to knock something off and not see it 
or realize it. Very carefully and meticulously follow every wire and 
hose and make sure everything is connected. It is also possible that 
you streched and damaged an ignition wire. The ignition wires CANNOT 
be pulled even a little bit and not get broken. The inner core is very 
easily broken and you won't even feel it. The wires can be checked 
with a DMM looking for a high resistance but not an open which would 
indicate a broken core.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Loads of things can cause this but here are a few to check since you 
> replaced the leads. 
> 1. Make sure that they are in the proper firing order. Check the 
> service manual for the firing order; I don't remember it off hand.
> 2. Make sure they are all seated properly, what I mean by this is 
> that the lead may look connected but it's not making any contact. 
> Pull off the leads one by one carefully by the boots and put them 
> back on. As you are putting them on do it gently and listen/feel for 
> a "click", that will be the metal contact snapping around the spark 
> plug. Check at the rotor too...make sure they are seated properly 
> also. A quick and dirty way (but safe) to check if you are getting a 
> spark to each plug is to connect a timing light to each lead and 
> triggering it. If the timing light flashes then you have a spark. 
> You are not checking the timing with the light by doing this...only 
> checking for a spark going through the leads when the light flashes.
> 3. make sure that whoever replaced the plugs didn't accidentally 
> knock into any other connectors around the area and made them come 
> loose.
> 4. Recheck your timing, if it's off you may have a wire misplaced.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Hi
> > 
> > Got a problem trying to get my car going, starts ok but the idle 
> speed
> > is all over the place.  When idling it either sits as normal about 
> 900
> > rpm or runs well high at about 2000, and randomly switches between
> > them.  When any throttle is applied it splutters lots and attempts 
> to
> > stall. Initially it has trouble ontaining an idle at all with the 
> air
> > flow sensor vibrating, and the engine miss firing.
> > 
> > We just replaced all the HT leads today, it was running fine 
before
> > that.
> > 
> > Anybody got ideas of what could be up and where to start looking 
> as our
> > mechanic bloke is off on holiday and we're trying to get it 
> running in
> > time for a show next week?
> > 
> > Richard (using Martin's email to confuse people)
> > #2727




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 14:37:08 +0100
From: Richard Johnstone <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Erratic idle speed

Hi, thanks for all the responses

1) Although Idle is erratic, the engine _seems_ to run evenly - could two of the wires
still be swapped? I will be checking this anyay, but thought I'd ask.
2) As soon as the idle speed microswitch is released, the engine goes nuts and threatens
to stall, so I don't think it's the switch.
3) Control pressure reg has been reconditioned by a reliable source.
4) Unlikely to be moisture as the car's been inside for over 9 months, and the whole
enigne's been stripped :-)

Richard
#2727

twinenginedmc12 wrote:

> Hi Richard.
>
> I'm familiar with the "It worked before I fixed it" phenomenon.

<snip>




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 22:17:00 -0700
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_mac.com>
Subject: JZD on GM, good article

http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=5024

has a good interview with JZD regarding the new GTO, discontinuation of
Olds, and a few little unbiased things about DMC.  Good read, interesting
final sentence too...

Josh




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 05:57:12 -0000
From: "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: My Door light is always on

I have been having this consistent problem, whenever i drive my 
delorean the open door warning light is on but my door is closed. 
anybody have any ideas?

PS:Thanks for everybodys help on the door adjustment tip for my 
sunstar delorean, helped a lot, i put some sheepskins on it,blacked 
out the head lights,made DMC floor mats, carpeted the 
trunk,personalized plates, and pt a dashcover on it! had a lot of 
time on my hands!

John
#2030 Honolulu,hi




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 09:30:09 -0400
From: Gleb Remishevsky <gremishe_at_dml_sju.edu>
Subject: Windshield Replacement

HI All,

This is my first post. I bought my car two months ago.
It's in a good shape, but the windshield is cracked and needs to be replaced.
I found a National company that has Delorean windshield.
It's "Safelite Auto Glass".
Delorean is listed on their web site http://www.safelite.com/
Click on "to schedule auto glass service" to get to the list of the cars.
The price is under $300 and they came to your home for free.
I know that ideal place to replace the windshield is to go the place such 
as P.J.Grady,
but for those who live too far this could be a good alternative.

Did anyone used this company before ? Are they reliable ?

I'm planing to make an appointment in a few weeks.
I'll keep you posted on the results.
Thanks

GR
Vin#3406 




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 11:36:34 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Erratic idle speed

Sounds like the old bad ground problem.. 

Check the archives.. You dont have to look back that far, maybe a week or two!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Johnstone [mailto:webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 9:37 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Erratic idle speed
> 
> 
> Hi, thanks for all the responses
> 
> 1) Although Idle is erratic, the engine _seems_ to run evenly 
> - could two of the wires
> still be swapped? I will be checking this anyay, but thought I'd ask.
> 2) As soon as the idle speed microswitch is released, the 
> engine goes nuts and threatens
> to stall, so I don't think it's the switch.
> 3) Control pressure reg has been reconditioned by a reliable source.
> 4) Unlikely to be moisture as the car's been inside for over 
> 9 months, and the whole
> enigne's been stripped :-)
> 
> Richard
> #2727
> 
<SNIP>
> 



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