From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1105
Date: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:48 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Replacement transmission?
From: Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: fascia repair/paint
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

3. Nakamichi deck -- real nice in DeLorean
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

4. Re: Sunstar DeLorean models
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Why does it pop out of 5th gear?
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

6. a/c blower question....
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Replacement transmission?
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

8. Re: fascia repair/paint
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: a/c blower question....
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: finding freon leaks
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

11. RE: Replacement transmission?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

12. Tail of the Dragon
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

13. Re: Door Adjustments
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: finding freon leaks
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Erratic idle speed - update
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Replacement transmission?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. New kid on block (#5939) Question #1
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 19:15:38 EDT
From: Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Replacement transmission?

I am looking into buying a Delorean in pretty decent condition with one major 
glitch:

It is an early 1981 DMC-12 with a disassembled, non-working automatic
transmission. My plan is to replace the engine and transmission completely,
but first get the PVR-6 up to spec. I know this is a place where this topic
may have been "done to death", but I have hardly anywhere else to turn.
If there already is a log of this topic, or another resource that has covered 
this
I would appreciate the location!

My question: with a rear-mounted engine, what kind of tranny is it? 
transverse?
what "modern" car would use a rear mounted engine/tranny? porshe? Hybrid car
with style... A honda spoon engine with trans was available for less than 
$10k
not too long ago here.

Any help appreciated...
Brian Verre
vallejo_ap_at_dml_hotmail.com



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 18:36:40 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: fascia repair/paint

I have seen DeLoreans that have been stored out in the sun for many years.
Some of these had severe cracking paint.  I think this was due to being
previously repainted by paint that tended to expand/contract at a different
rate than the fascia.  I've also seen spider web cracks any place where a
fascia gets bumped.  I know that on many cars they use a flexible/rubberized
additive in the paint to make it hold up better on fascias.  I'm wondering
how something like that would do in our case?  It will be interesting to
hear how the Halfords product holds up.  Time will tell.

Walt




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:12:04 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Nakamichi deck -- real nice in DeLorean

Hey fellow DML'ers!

I have just upgraded my audio system in the DeLorean and am selling my Limited Edition Nakamichi Amp and Deck.

If any of you know Nakamichi, you know its superb quality.

The reason i am posting this on the DML is because the Nak deck really looks nice in the DeLorean interior.  And the Limited Edition one i have is Gray, so it looks really killer in a gray interior d.

Just a quick heads up... if anybody is looking for a nice replacement deck... its the dual knob style so its not something that requires a new faceplate bezel ... 

email me privately if you have any questions..

i put them on ebay :

DECK -> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1365311081

AMP -> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1365312029

Thanks
Kenneth
05541



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 01:17:47 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sunstar DeLorean models

http://www.diecastmuscle.com/ they have them for $27.50


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jack The Stripper <motti_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Someone gave me a great URL for a site that sold the Sunstar 
models, and 
> had the BTTF one for half of what most places are charging for 
it.  Most 



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 22:14:23 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: Why does it pop out of 5th gear?

Why does it pop out of 5th gear. Ya, you could have internal tranny
problems, but is it possible that you have very worn or soft motor and
tranny mounts and when the torque from the wheels rocks the motor/tranny it
is like pulling itself out of gear? Just a thought and certainly cheaper
than pulling the tranny.

Casey




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 22:59:22 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: a/c blower question....

Group,
I just had my a/c serviced with new R-12 and luckily all went well...no 
leaks! and it blows cold. I have 2 fan questions...Is there any way to 
increase the fan output so it blows more? I know the answer may be to get a 
better fan :-)....2nd question is if there is any way to make the fan 
quieter? Maybe my blower motor is just old but on high speed it sounds pretty 
loud and just curious if anyone found a way to make it a little quieter...my 
solution so far is to turn my radio up....

Mike 
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:43:59 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement transmission?

Hi Brian,

Incase you (or anyone else on the List) need it I have a good used
auto-transmission going cheap. It is in first class condition from my
spares-DeLorean. The car had a frontal smash, with only 28k miles, and had
service history from one of the main dealers. Tranny is located in southern
CA.

Regards,              IAN  ian(AT)netvigator.com
********************

----- Original Message -----
From: <Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 7:15 AM
Subject: [DML] Replacement transmission?


> I am looking into buying a Delorean in pretty decent condition with one
major
> glitch:
>
> It is an early 1981 DMC-12 with a disassembled, non-working automatic
> transmission. 



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 23:57:35 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: fascia repair/paint

Walt and group, I all the years of working with Corvettes, 72 was the first 
year of the rubber bumper and 73 was rubber front and rear. For the 10 years 
I worked with them, I never replaced one. That was about 82 thur 85 I had 
those cars. 
Ultra Violet light through all my years of working with products for outside 
whether it be bumpers on cars, ty raps, plastic of any kind, UV will get to 
it without a certain amount of care. New products today that repel UV will 
help, but nothing will beat care. Crows feet was pretty common for cars that 
were parked out side. All we did was repaint them ever so often.One thing 
that will help is the dryer that is used in paint and how it sticks. As the 
paint shop about that.   
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

<< I have seen DeLoreans that have been stored out in the sun for many years.
 Some of these had severe cracking paint.  I think this was due to being
 previously repainted by paint that tended to expand/contract at a different
 rate than the fascia.  I've also seen spider web cracks any place where a
 fascia gets bumped.  I know that on many cars they use a flexible/rubberized
 additive in the paint to make it hold up better on fascias.  I'm wondering
 how something like that would do in our case?  It will be interesting to
 hear how the Halfords product holds up.  Time will tell.
 
 Walt >>



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 00:06:09 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: a/c blower question....

Mike, We talk about fans all the time on the DML, The best thing to do is 
replace it. It's cheap and you can see it on my web site. The other thing you 
can do to keep the AC from alternating so often, is not run it on max. Run 
the AC on normal and add a little out side air with it if the LP swith cycles 
to much.On super hot day's in Texas, if everything is right, mine very seldom 
cycles anyway. Then about the only time the AC will alternate is if the low 
pressure switch is bad or if you truly getting low on freon. That's what I do 
and my AC almost never cycles.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/  

<< Group,
 I just had my a/c serviced with new R-12 and luckily all went well...no 
 leaks! and it blows cold. I have 2 fan questions...Is there any way to 
 increase the fan output so it blows more? I know the answer may be to get a 
 better fan :-)....2nd question is if there is any way to make the fan 
 quieter? Maybe my blower motor is just old but on high speed it sounds 
pretty 
 loud and just curious if anyone found a way to make it a little quieter...my 
 solution so far is to turn my radio up....
  >>



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 00:17:00 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks

I've been going through the archives reading everything I can find on a/c
evaporators because I'm getting ready to replace mine.  I came across a
thread I started last year about finding freon leaks and now that I
understand the situation better, I'm going to answer my own post with a
warning to not blow yourself up.

Freon leak detectors are sensitive to a variety of hydrocarbon molecules
including gasoline.  The situation with the DeLorean is unique (isn't it
always?) in that the condensate drain is right next to the fuel tank where
heavy fuel vapors will linger in the cavities in and around the frame.
Considering that I had a defective TankZilla, there were plenty of fuel
vapors making my leak detector think that the whole front of the car was a
freon leak.  And another thing I didn't know at the time is that these
detectors work by monitoring a high voltage discharge in the sensor's tip.
This spark can ignite fuel vapors, so it wasn't such a bright idea for me to
go sticking the thing around the fuel tank.

Walt (taking pride in my humility)

> I am trying to locate a leak in my a/c system and am having some trouble
> doing it.  I just bought a leak sniffer from NAPA and put it to work.  So
> far I seem to be finding a high concentration of CFCs between the frame
and
> the fuel tank near the point where the flexible fuel lines meet the metal
> fuel lines.
<snip>




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:35:14 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Replacement transmission?

Is there something wrong with the engine?  Or just the transmission?

Depending on the cost of the car, why not just repair/replace the transmission??  It is a Renault built unit.

The engine/trans are NOT transverse.  This is a similar setup to modern Porsche cars.  The 97 DeLorean Time Machine has a Porsche automatic transmission in it, and others are working on Porsche conversions.  IMHO, it is an expensive project.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 7:16 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Cc: Foleyverre_at_dml_aol.com
> Subject: [DML] Replacement transmission?
> 
> 
> I am looking into buying a Delorean in pretty decent 
> condition with one major 
> glitch:
> 
> It is an early 1981 DMC-12 with a disassembled, non-working automatic
> transmission. My plan is to replace the engine and 
> transmission completely,
>> 
> My question: with a rear-mounted engine, what kind of tranny is it? 
> transverse?
> what "modern" car would use a rear mounted engine/tranny? 
> porshe? 



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:08:47 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Tail of the Dragon

While on vacation in North Carolina last week, I had the opportunity to
drive the section of US 129 that is known as the "Tail of the Dragon".  318
curves in 11 miles.  It was just recently paved so it was very smooth.
Their was approx. 500 Hondas on the road that day, I  believe that they came
from the "Honda Hoot" that was being held in Knoxville.

 I included the web address for those who are interested.

http://www.tailofthedragon.com/

This road might be a good Friday trip during the Pigeon Forge show in 2004.

Scott Mueller
002981




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:42:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Adjustments

After having done more than 1 door adjustment I also agree that most 
of the time I can do a "door adjustment" by just replacing the strut. 
Some of the adjustments I have done were to LOOSEN the torsion bar. I 
find it is best if the owner can agree to have the doors open pretty 
much by themselves but not all the way. My major test is if the door 
will stay open when opened all the way. This way there is no "bounce". 
I find it scary to see the door bounce. If you understood the amount 
of leverage in the door system and the stresses on the roof from 
having the doors open too energetically you might also loosen the bars 
to get rid of the "bounce". (Watch the anchors when you open the door 
and bounce it). I think if you have the door launchers you may need to 
tighten up a little more but realize that the struts are very 
sensitive to temperature. If we all lobby the venders maybe on the 
next batch of struts they can be made with a temperature compensating 
valve inside so they are less sensitive to changes in temperature. DO 
NOT TIGHTEN THE TORSION BARS TO COMPENSATE FOR AGING, WEAK STRUTS. 
When you finaly do replace the struts then you will REALLY see 
"bounce"!!!! BTW not all struts from all venders are equal. The latest 
from P. J. Grady seem to have a retarding effect in the last part of 
the opening of the door minimizing "bounce". Another little tip is to 
cut a small piece of rubber from an inner tube and stick it between 
the rear hinge and where the torsion bar passes by so it cannot get 
scratched. when adjusting torsion bars they can move around and touch 
the hinge, if scratched then the bar will fail.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> FYI, five years ago when I purchased my D, I had new door struts 
installed
> as the doors both dropped pretty good...it did SOME correction but 
still
> needed the torsion bar adjusted. As no one around here to do it, I 
built the
> jig and got the tools and with the help of a friend, did it 
myself....they
> were fine.....over the last few months they began to droop again.  I 
thought
> I should start with new struts again, which I did, and then probably 
go the
> rest of the  way, with the torsion bar adjust again.  Got the new 
struts
> installed and could hardly believe that was all it took



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:58:48 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks

Using leak detectors on automotive systems is very hard. With all the 
air moving over the parts it is hard to use them. The best ways are 
either with a leak detector dye or the best thing that I like is a 
leak detector solution of soapy water with a little glycerine. You can 
also find many leaks by the traces of refrigerent oil left behind from 
the leak. The hardest leak to find is the compressor seal. The hoses 
being so long and being porous are the largest source of small leaks. 
If you find you are always adding Freon then once in a while you MUST 
add some refrigerent oil. Most servicemen never think of touching the 
oil, they just squirt some Freon in, charge the customer the "big 
bucks" and wait for him to come back next year. Some of this is out of 
ignorance in how to properly service A/C systems and part is the 
chance for repeat business. Cerified mechanics are supposed to fix any 
leaks over 1/2 OZ per year but it is faster and easier (and more 
profitable) to just shoot some Freon in. One of the symptoms of a 
malfunctioning A/C system is some loss of capacity. This doesn't mean 
it won't blow cold air, it means on the hotest days it doesn't seem to 
cool off the car like it used to when it was new. The causes can range 
from dirty evap or condenser coils to low refrigerent to contamination 
in the system.
 BTW the sparking in the leak detector is safe to use in a combustable 
atmosphere. If you want to talk about unsafe use a halide detector 
that fits on a propane torch and uses a copper reaction plate. That 
thing if it found Freon would combust it and create Phosgene gas.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I've been going through the archives reading everything I can find 
on a/c
> evaporators because I'm getting ready to replace mine.  I came 
across a
> thread I started last year about finding freon leaks and now that I
> understand the situation better, I'm going to answer my own post 
with a
> warning to not blow yourself up.
> 
> Freon leak detectors are sensitive to a variety of hydrocarbon 
molecules
> including gasoline.  The situation with the DeLorean is unique 
(isn't it
> always?) in that the condensate drain is right next to the fuel tank 
where
> heavy fuel vapors will linger in the cavities in and around the 
frame.
> Considering that I had a defective TankZilla, there were plenty of 
fuel
> vapors making my leak detector think that the whole front of the car 
was a
> freon leak.  And another thing I didn't know at the time is that 
these
> detectors work by monitoring a high voltage discharge in the 
sensor's tip.
> This spark can ignite fuel vapors, so it wasn't such a bright idea 
for me to
> go sticking the thing around the fuel tank.
> 
> Walt (taking pride in my humility)
> 
> > I am trying to locate a leak in my a/c system and am having some 
trouble
> > doing it.  I just bought a leak sniffer from NAPA and put it to 
work.  So
> > far I seem to be finding a high concentration of CFCs between the 
frame
> and
> > the fuel tank near the point where the flexible fuel lines meet 
the metal
> > fuel lines.
> <snip>




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:09:06 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed - update

Setting up the fuel system on a twin turbo is vastly different from a 
stock Delorean. You should contact the vender you got the turbos from 
or one of the Delorean venders. They have experience with them and can 
talk you through. You can start with enriching the idle mixture by 
turning the air-fuel mixture screw under the tamperproof plug. Since 
there is no accelerater pump to overcome the initial leaning till the 
turbos kick in the idle mixture needs to be richer than normal. Any 
vacuum leaks will also hurt as they tend to lean the air-fuel ratio. 
Plug off the vacuum line going to the trans modulater. Make sure after 
adjusting the mixture screw there is a plug in the housing or you will 
have a BIG vacuum leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Well we've been having another look at the car in question today.
> Definitely got all the spark plugs in the right holes.
> Checked for any dislodged hoses/electrical connections, found the 
capacitor going to the
> coil was disconnected, but this didn't seem to affect things anyway.
> Only unaccounted for double wire is a black wire and orange wire in 
a rectangular
> connector at the back of engine bay. Lost or surplus? (this is an 
auto tranny)
> One other strange point. The fuel adjustment screw has been blocked 
off.  Is this normal
> on twin turbo setups - anyone? Apparently this needed to be drilled 
out on the
> fresh-from-the-factory engine (this engine has 34000 miles on it!)
> Idle speed switch is ok. In fact, the only time the engine will run 
is with it pressed!
> 
> Just to clarify a bit more what the engine is doing.  The engine 
seems to idle quite
> nicely, although it doesn't hunt properly.  When any throttle is 
applied it coughs
> splutters and attempts to stall.  Also when throttle is applied the 
airflow sensor
> oscillates rapidly, and it misfires badly.  With the engine off, the 
metering head
> plunger comes back with quite a spring when you push it down, unlike 
Martin's one which
> bounces nicely against the rubber endstop as the plunger drops down 
slowly.
> 
> Control Pressure regulator has been reconditioned.  Could it be the 
metering head at
> fault??
> Any other ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Richard
> #2727




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:16:29 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement transmission?

You will find it at least 1 order of magnitude harder to do a swap 
then to try to use a stock drivetrain. You will be in "uncharted 
teritory" as there are no manuals to do this and few people have tried 
it. My advice is to at least try to keep it stock. It is also the best 
way to go for resale value and future serviceability. The costs of the 
parts will be a lot lower putting it back then to custom fabricate 
brackets, fuel, exhaust, electical and such. Many of these ambitious 
projects never are completed. FWIW.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Foleyverre_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I am looking into buying a Delorean in pretty decent condition with 
one major 
> glitch:
> 
> It is an early 1981 DMC-12 with a disassembled, non-working 
automatic
> transmission. My plan is to replace the engine and transmission 
completely,
> but first get the PVR-6 up to spec. I know this is a place where 
this topic
> may have been "done to death", but I have hardly anywhere else to 
turn.
> If there already is a log of this topic, or another resource that 
has covered 
> this
> I would appreciate the location!
> 
> My question: with a rear-mounted engine, what kind of tranny is it? 
> transverse?
> what "modern" car would use a rear mounted engine/tranny? porshe? 
Hybrid car
> with style... A honda spoon engine with trans was available for less 
than 
> $10k
> not too long ago here.
> 
> Any help appreciated...
> Brian Verre
> vallejo_ap_at_dml_h...




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 16:13:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: New kid on block (#5939) Question #1

#5939 is now in Virginia, halfway to new home in North Carolina.

We'll take these questions one at a time ...
(Apologies for re-asking a question that's been addressed 100,000 
times but I can't get Yahoo's "Search Archive" feature to work).

Question #1: Hot Starting (bad accumulator?)

Car has stock Bosch fuel injection. Runs fine. Starts cold. Problem: 
won't restart hot. Am currently using ether (sorry guys, but it's the 
only way to get out of the parking lot). Suspect it's a bad fuel 
accumulator. Have located colored electrical connectors on firewall, 
but can't remember which colors to switch. What is temporary hot start 
fix AGAIN?

BTW: have no documentation on car yet (will be part of that big 
initial parts purchase) -- where exactly is fuel accumulator located?

Have beaucoups of other questions, but we'll "start" with just this 
one (humor) ...

Bill Robertson
North Carolina
#5939





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