From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1114
Date: Monday, July 15, 2002 11:09 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. New poll
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>

2. Clutch problem
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

3. Power Antenna Fuse
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Powered Seats ?
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Flooded D
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

6. Re: Re: Powered Seats ?
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

7. rear fascia broken bolts
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

8. My entry to "The Car I Loved Most" Contest
From: "argent486" <argentum_at_dml_hit.net>

9. Re: verifying a/c charge amount
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Flooded D
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

11. Re: Flooded D
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

12. Previous owner?
From: "bolidelorean" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>

13. door strut gas pressure?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

14. RE: rear fascia broken bolts
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

15. 1981 Delorean for sale
From: "evm2k" <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Putting back the old fuel lines
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

17. Incorrect door struts.
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

18. Nick Pitello Selling Delorean?
From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 12:29:54 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>
Subject: New poll

Check out the new poll on rims with choices on size, style, and finish at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/polls

Cast one vote for size/style and another for the finish.  Keep drivin' stainless!

-Mike A.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:56:36 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Clutch problem

Over the past 2 days I have started to suffer from and irritating problem my
D

After running the car for about 15-20 mins I start to get problems finding
gears. It starts getting hard to find 2nd then 1st then eventually it
crunches into all. If I stop and let the car cool totally its back to normal
until it starts again.

1 the system is bled
2 I Have the original clutch line
3 in first gear with the clutch fully depressed the car still creeps
forward.
4 this is the first time its been driven in really warn/hot weather

Conclusion????

My thoughts are the pipe needs replacing with a stainless braided one, as
when this one gets warm it softens and then expands under the pressure, not
given the pressure needed to totally release the clutch.

Advice welcome

Cheers
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:31:19 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Power Antenna Fuse

I took a look at the inline fuse to my power antenna today cause I
wondered what kind it was.  I didn't know that they made 6A fuses.
I looked everywhere I could think of, but couldn't find any
documentation on what the correct rating for this fuse is.  As far as
I know, this fuse has never been replaced, so I would assume that 6A
is the correct rating.  Is that the kind of fuse that everyone else
has for their power antenna?

John Yeoman





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:13:29 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Powered Seats ?

I replaced my seats with Porsche Boxster seats. The power part is functional, as are the heating elements in the seats. The first set of brackets made the seats kinda high. I re-made the brackets which lowered them a little bit, but they are still a little higher than stock. It's actually kinda nice taking a look out the window and not seeing right in my line of vision that molding that separates the two windows in the door. I don't bump my head, but I guess if you're 6'2" or taller, you'll have to lay the seat back a little bit. I have no problems being 5'11". They are a lot more comfy than stock seats in my opinion. They have more lumbar support which is what was bothing me with the stock seats.

---Dan




Message: 8
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:45:25 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Powered Seats ?

DanRC30 had replaced his seats with seats from a Porche Boxter. I 
don't know if he has the power portion of it working. The seats fit 
in the Delorean nicely except they are *slightly* to tall and cause 
you to bump your head on the roof of the Delorean. He may have fixed 
that problem by now, hopefully he'll post about it.

Steve




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 20:06:04 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Flooded D

My D was sitting outside all weekend, and it has been raining all weekend.  I 
go out and today and find 1/2 an inch of water sitting in the floor board.  I 
tried pooring a pitcher of water down the windshield, and it drained under the 
car, I thought maybe that it was draining into the car but it wasn't. 
I just put new door seals on the doors.

Where could the car be leaking from?


Thanks
  Willie
  Vin 5043




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:04:14 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Powered Seats ?

Dan,

Interesting you note the lack of lumbar support in the stock seats.  I have
had the same impression, which is compounded by my long legs.  The solution
I came up with was to remove padding from the stock seat under my tail bone.
After removing the seat, I first cut out the black rubber diaphragm in the
shape of a oval racetrack (like Indy).  Than I pick out a substantial amount
of the foam rubber in that area, going back as far as I can thru the cutout
hole.  The results for me are much more comfortable, and since I am the only
one driving the car the power option is not missed.

Don,  2054 +
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: "DML" <DMCNews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 1:13 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Powered Seats ?


> I replaced my seats with Porsche Boxster seats. The power part is
functional, as are the heating elements in the seats. The first set of
brackets made the seats kinda high. I re-made the brackets which lowered
them a little bit, but they are still a little higher than stock. It's
actually kinda nice taking a look out the window and not seeing right in my
line of vision that molding that separates the two windows in the door. I
don't bump my head, but I guess if you're 6'2" or taller, you'll have to lay
the seat back a little bit. I have no problems being 5'11". They are a lot
more comfy than stock seats in my opinion. They have more lumbar support
which is what was bothing me with the stock seats.
>
> ---Dan
>
>
>
> Message: 8
>    Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 13:45:25 -0000
>    From: "basfe25" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Powered Seats ?
>
> DanRC30 had replaced his seats with seats from a Porche Boxter. I
> don't know if he has the power portion of it working. The seats fit
> in the Delorean nicely except they are *slightly* to tall and cause
> you to bump your head on the roof of the Delorean. He may have fixed
> that problem by now, hopefully he'll post about it.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:18:49 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: rear fascia broken bolts

While removing the rear fascia
 
the bolts on the lower part that hold it to the metal plate located
behind the muffler snapped one by one
 
is there a way to remove these bolts from the fascia?
 
Has this ever happened to anybody else?
 
What are my option now?
 
I don't want to drill through the fascia to reinforce it to the plate, 
 
Any help is much appreciated!
 
Thanks
Kenneth
05541
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:25:54 -0000
From: "argent486" <argentum_at_dml_hit.net>
Subject: My entry to "The Car I Loved Most" Contest





Greetings all,

I thought I would share my entry to "The Car I Loved Most" Contest. 
Came up with most of it one afternoon while making a long drive out 
to a work site. Comes to 99 words excluding title and last notes.

Delorean: Tribute Poem

Rise morning sun,
Another day has begun,
We all need good fun,
I drive my Delorean!

One man's idea it took,
Exists more than in a book,
While young and old take a look,
At 88 miles per hour I really cook!

Gull wing doors take flight,
Stainless steel armored by sight,
Sporty, low, holds pavement tight,
A Sunday drive is pure delight!

On to the local show,
Down many roads we may go,
Watch children's faces glow,
The circles of admirers grow!

To all or one,
Another day has begun,
Take some time for fun,
Driving a Delorean!

A short tribute to Mr. Delorean and my 1981 Delorean – VIN 961
Currently under restoration and conditioning for future Sunday
drives…

I have an easier to read with graphic copy posted at: 
http://home.hit.net/~argentum/tributepoem.htm

I have link posted at the bottom for a printable copy as well. Share 
it with a friend. Enjoy!

Matt Metzinger
Arkansas City, KS 67005
argentum_at_dml_hit.net
VIN 961 - KS Tag TIMELES





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 02:48:23 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: verifying a/c charge amount

The sonic device I refer to is made by TIF Industries. Any large A/C 
wholesale supply can get it for you. As good as the VOV may sound the 
stock set-up is very adequate assuming the rest of the system is 
functioning properly. On my cars I just set the suction pressure at 34 
degrees and a high side below 150 psi for R-12.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> David T,
> 
> > 2) Using a sonic device to detect supercooled droplets in the 
suction
> > line.
> 
> I never knew that such a device existed; though, I have heard of a 
similar
> device that detects vapor bubbles.  Can you recommend a source for 
learning
> more about the sonic devices?
> 



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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 20:15:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Flooded D

The leak may be coming from screw holes in the (for lack of a better word
to describe it) trough between the inner and outter door seals. There
should be some silicone sealant around all of those screws.

I discovered the problem one night when I was driving in the rain and
pulled up to a red light. A bucket's worth of water imediately dumped onto
my passenger's lap.

So give those screws a look over.

-Christian

On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, wmack wrote:

> My D was sitting outside all weekend, and it has been raining all weekend.  I
> go out and today and find 1/2 an inch of water sitting in the floor board.  I
> tried pooring a pitcher of water down the windshield, and it drained under the
> car, I thought maybe that it was draining into the car but it wasn't.
> I just put new door seals on the doors.
>
> Where could the car be leaking from?
>
>
> Thanks
>   Willie
>   Vin 5043



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 01:08:06 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Flooded D

Willie,

I have had water get in my DeLorean from several places.

Since you just replaced your door seal, it is possible that the headliner
fabric is wicking up water from the outside and bringing it inside.  I had
that after installing a new headliner AND knowing to watch for this problem.

I've had water enter through one of the screws in the roof (fiberglass
underbody between the door opening and the windshield.)  I gooped it up with
black silicone.  This screw is rusted so bad that its only real purpose now
is to help plug the hole.  Someday I'll replace all of them with rivets or
SS screws & nuts.  Water from this hole would travel in the headliner and
drip out through the front courtesy light.  I since replaced the headliner
and courtesy light.

I still have water getting in between the windshield glass and the
fiberglass underbody right over the steering wheel.  Sometimes it rains and
water gets in, but usually it doesn't.  I suppose it depends on how I park.

Check for wet spots in your courtesy light and damp areas in the center
headliner.  Also consider that it could have leaked in from the
dash/firewall area.  You might need to put some silicone under the screws
for the a/c intake grill and the stops for the hood.

Let us know what you find.

Walt




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 06:41:42 -0000
From: "bolidelorean" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>
Subject: Previous owner?

Hi Everybody,
I need some help from someone living in Erie,PA. This weekend I 
picked up my D after some reparations and improvements, which 
included welding the front end of my frame which was almost broken 
off. The crack was under the protection layer of the frame, if he 
didn't find it by accident I could have been in serious trouble later.
The guy who was working on my car found a businesscard in my 
centerconsole. Without any knowledge about the history of my car I'm 
hoping it's a card from the previous owner.
The card says:
 Pineridge Construction
 2928 Peach Street
 Erie, PA 16508
Owner: Edward Rzodkiewicz
Supervisor: Doug Herbstritt
If someone has any information or could help me further with an e-
mail adress, I would be very grateful!
Pleas contact me privately, also because I don't receive any mails 
from the mailinglist the last week. I don't know why yet.

Mads de Bruin
Netherlands
VIN# 06881
debruin(at)dia.eur.nl






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 02:14:52 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: door strut gas pressure?

I'm curious to know if anyone can say how much gas pressure is in a door
strut?  Or at least an order of magnitude.  I know that even a strut that is
too weak to budge the door still has so much pressure that I can't compress
it by leaning on it with all my weight.

Walt (had too much caffeine with dinner :-)




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:53:20 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: rear fascia broken bolts

I had this happen to me too, but only one on the rear broke..  Many more on the front broke in my case.

For mine, I stole an idea from Dan (of Porsche seat fame) and made some replacements out of stainless steel.  The hard part was cutting the old ones out of the plastic and getting the new ones in..

As it turns out, the front (which was the real problem) does not need the blind clips.  You can drill the studs out and replace them with bolts and they will not be seen from the outside of the car.  I realized this after cutting the plastic to remove the old stud and plate assembly, so I replaced the rusted plate with stainless anyway.  Stainless bolts were also used, with a dab of never seize.

The rear may be a little different because I think you will see the bolt heads if you do the drill method.  Because only one stud was broken in my case, I left it alone.  I suggest you try to remake the stud/plate part and replace it as I explain, if it does not work you always have the option to go back and drill/bolt it.  Try to find black stainless bolts, I think they will look best.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Digital Devices [mailto:delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net]
> Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 9:19 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] rear fascia broken bolts
> 
> 
> While removing the rear fascia
>  
> the bolts on the lower part that hold it to the metal plate located
> behind the muffler snapped one by one
>  
> is there a way to remove these bolts from the fascia?
>  
> Has this ever happened to anybody else?
>  
> What are my option now?
>  
> I don't want to drill through the fascia to reinforce it to 
> the plate, 
>  
> Any help is much appreciated!
>  
> Thanks
> Kenneth
> 05541



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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:24:26 -0000
From: "evm2k" <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 1981 Delorean for sale

Hello Group:

My name is Richard Lew and I have a 1981 Delorean for sale.  The last 
VIN # are 1577.  The car is stock and runs well.  The odometer reads 
12494 but when I got the car, the angle drive was broken so I don't 
know if the car has gone over 100k miles.  I did a cylinder 
compression test and found all the cylinders running 140 to 150 lbs.

The transmission has a minor gear shifting problem under hard 
acceleration from 1 to 2.  The clutch seems to be working fine with 
no noticeable slippage.

I've replaced all of the hoses and engine sensors 4 years ago.  The 
body is in good shape and the color is, of course, stainless steel.  
There are two noticeable dents; one on the hood and the other on 
driver side rear wheel well.

Other parts that have been replaced or repaired are:

Rebuilt fuel distributor
New fuel injectors
New air cleaner assembly (missing when I bought the car)
New a/c compressor
New fuel sender
New axle boots
New front brake pads
New front spoiler
New trailing arm bolts
Rebuilt Delco alternator (lifetime guarantee from Kragens Auto Parts)
Repainted front and rear facias
Rebuilt rear tail light boards
New side amber and red side markers
Reupholstered seats to black cloth
Reupholstered front dashboard and knee pad 
AM/FM CD player (does not play computer burned CDs)

This car does not have any of the upgraded Zilla stuff but everything 
works fine now.

The car is located in Danville, California and I'm selling it for 
$15,000.  I will be advertising in Yahoo Classifieds and 
Carsforsale.com later this month.

If you have any questions, please email me privately at 
wildimaginations_at_dml_earthlink.net

Thanks
Richard Lew
7-15-2002





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:30:10 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Putting back the old fuel lines

After I put the old lines back on and the car started running rough on
me(again!). So I thought I had better double-check my hookups. They were all
exactly as it was before because I drew a diagram of everything to remind
me. When I compared it to the repair manual I noticed that the previous
owner had 4 and 6 switched. 

I've tried it with 4 and 6 reversed and with them in the correct position.
The correct position yields better results but it still sluggish when I put
the hammer down (I'm Eastbound and Down). When I hit the accelerator hard,
the engine sounds almost exactly like a VW beetle (putt-putt-putt-putt) and
has about as much pickup. It sounded to me like one of the injectors wasn't
firing correctly.

I retorqued the 1-2-3 fuel lines over the injectors and it seemed to
improve. The 4-5-6 I felt were okay but maybe I should retorque them as
well. The question is, can over-torquing them cause the fuel to get choked
off?

The only other thing I can think of is maybe I knocked something loose
around the slave cylinder when I was bleeding it... 



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:01:14 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Incorrect door struts.

I recently purchased a set of door struts.  Unfortunately, the 
geometry of the replacement struts was not compatible with the 
original struts, or the car itself.  The cylinder body of the 
replacement strut was about 5mm longer than the original Stabilus 
Lift-o-mat struts.  I failed to notice this small but very important 
difference, and installed one of the struts, and to my horror found 
that the strut mounting post on the roof support was bent during the 
very first trial door closure.  It turned out the cylinder body 
bottomed out against the mounting post, and because of the geometry 
involved, pushed against the post with a force of what I later 
calculated was about 2500 pounds.  I would advize anyone replacing 
their struts to measure the new versus the old, to verify that you're 
not receiving one of these subtly, but dangerously wrong struts, 
unless you have complete faith in your supplier.  I expect that any 
unfortunate soul who inadvertently buys and installs a set of these 
incorrect struts, and puts his trust in the supplier, is risking 
destruction of the mounting boss down the road due to stress fatigue 
failure.  
Personally, I find the sale of an improperly specified strut that is 
meant to hold a 100+ pound piece of metal in the air safely over my 
or my passenger's head a reprehensible act.  

Rick Gendreau.

11472 twin engine Delorean.












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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:21:50 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Nick Pitello Selling Delorean?

Hey yall, im a newbie here to the DML, but I had heard through the 
grapevine that Nick was selling his Delorean, which is the one that 
i've been searching for awhile. I currently own a nice 82 manual, 
which I would love to give up for an 81 manual that nick has. I 
didnt know if anyone knew him really well because its always scary 
to buy things from people from long distance. Is nick ok? :) 
Delorean I bought I bought in person so....

Thanks

Mike




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