From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1118
Date: Thursday, July 18, 2002 10:19 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Coolant
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

2. RE: Door strut debacle
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

3. Re: Door strut debacle
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

4. Trailing arm rust
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

5. Re: Re: putting D in Museum - advice?
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

6. My delorean for sale
From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless_at_dml_cox.net>

7. Re: putting D in Museum - advice?
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Coolant
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Stranded in my Driveway Again...
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 17:07:34 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant

Blue Antifreeze is usually indicative of BMW or VW "factory" stuff 
that you can get at their dealers. Very good antifreeze, especially 
formulated for their large-scale use of aluminum. 

Original DMC stuff was the normal green (like Prestone) color.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Does anyone know what color the factory antifreeze was?  I was 
going 
> to change mine since I don't know if it ever has been, but it 
looked 
> fresh, so I put it back in.  It is blue but I have never seen blue 
> before (or heard of it.)  If it is original, do I still need to 
> replace it even if it is clean or not?
> Thanks
> Cam




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:18:58 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Door strut debacle

I read the claim below that that the extra 5mm is to improve the design of the strut for the purposes of opening the door more?  We can hope that some time was taken to calculate, measure and verify this design change before selling this part to the public.  If so, what is the measured increase in the door arc?  What is the old VS new angles of the door top to the T panel?  If it is believed to be +/- tolerance on the location of the pin, what is the range and how many cars were sampled?  Did both the top and bottom mounts vary from car to car?

On both 06068 and 01860 with PJGrady struts, 3 of the 4 doors open fine, so I don't see why it is necessary to use a longer piston.   The passenger side of 01860 does not open as far as the other 3 I think because the T panel is not adjusted properly and there is interference and even then, my passengers have no problem with ingress/egress with the door open.

Which bring's up another point with the extended struts; On a car where the T panel is not perfectly aligned, the added travel of the door is more likely to hit and bend the T Panel.

The ability to purchase a longer strut like this is great for cars that may have a problem due to manufacturing tolerances resulting in varied location of the piston mount(s).  It is the option of the vendor if they want to sell a "stock" size piston, or "extended" size piston (or both!) but I find it irresponsible to not notify the customer that the part they are purchasing is not an exact fit and may cause serious damage to their car.  I believe the vendor would (and should) be liable for damage caused by the part.

I suspect this problem has effected more than "the very small number of cars" stated below.  It's more likely that there are a bunch of cars out there with bent mounts and they don't even know it.  This is what I saw in Memphis while helping with the door adjustment, in that small sample of cars there were a few bent mounts and the owners had no idea.   When owners do find out, having shorter ends available will not fix the damage that has already been done. 

IMHO, knowing that this part can potentially be a problem on any number of cars is not worth the added room with the door open.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Espey [mailto:james_at_dml_usadmc.com]
> Subject: [DML] Door strut debacle
> 
> 
<SNIP>
> 
> A 5mm increase in the length of the strut translates into a 
> couple inches or so with the door fully open, resulting in significantly more room for ingress/egress from the DeLorean - something no one will 
> complain about. For the very small number of cars that this affects, shorter ends are available for the struts.
> 
> Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
> 
<SNIP>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 17:38:06 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Door strut debacle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., James Espey <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> DeLorean Motor Company (Texas) was the vendor where the struts were
> purchased from that Rick Gendreau had problems with the struts 
being 5mm too
> long for his application. 

Hello,

Thanks for your reply James.

Because of your excellent customer service, which is very important 
to me, I had refrained from naming your company on the DML as the 
seller of my door struts.

Though my car was extensively modified, the door geometry was not.  
The modifications to my car did not cause the bottoming out of my 
door struts.  That notwithstanding, there may be some subtle 
difference between my car and others that neither of us are aware of 
yet.

Being in a customer service oriented industry myself, I value your 
attempts to make things right, and still plan on doing business with 
you in the future!

Rick Gendreau







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:24:54 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Trailing arm rust

Hey guys,
I have had my D for just over a month. Right now im 16 and my D is
my first car. The car runs pretty well. The stearing has some play and
the suspension is a little rough.
The frame is in good shape all round except in two places. The right rear
towing braket is broken from
the frame, i have manged to to lift it back up and I can get someone to
weld it back.
The big problem is the passenger side trailing arm the epoxy has cracked
and the frame
has rusted up underneath it.. I can get the rust of and recoat it with
the epoxy, but is 
it worth doing it all? is it cheaper  just to replace the whole trainling
arm? if so how big of jobs is that to do?

thanks

Mark
Vin#1366



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:23:33 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: putting D in Museum - advice?

just out of curiosity,  doesn't keeping the doors closed put strain on the
torsion bar?  Keeping them open would take all of the strain off of them (
they would in effect be "unwound")  look into getting piston locks.  They
are little clamps to put on the pistons so they will take all of the weight
of the door.  I doubt some caretaker is going to remember to open and close
the door everyday and I think that would put premature wear on them.  What
do you guys think of my 2 cents worth?

Joseph
vin 2850



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:25:51 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: My delorean for sale

Hey guys I added some pics online here, check them out at folder 
thinkstainless. Yes thats the actual car, I dont know if any of you 
guys know Matt Olans, but he's comming to check out this car today, 
so if you want to verify anything with him (That is if he dosent buy 
this car off me) Post a message up for him since he reads posts 
here, and ask him questions if you feel more confortable doing that, 
or you could ask anyone in the AZ Delorean club if they could if 
their willing or anyone else in the area :)

I know how tough it is to buy cars from a distance, im the same way 
since this Delorean I bought I got in person, so I knew what I was 
getting.

Thanks

Mike




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:31:05 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: putting D in Museum - advice?

Hmmm... I didn't know that. What I do know is that the guy I bought 
my Delorean from stored it with the Passenger side door open (don't 
ask becasue I don't know why he did) and he said that when he first 
had the car the doors worked great but after a year being open it 
began sagging. You notice a huge difference between the drivers door 
(that was not left open) and the passenger side. Drivers door opens 
fine and stays up but the passenger side droops so low I have to use 
a broom stick to keep it open when I work on it (the car isn't ready 
for the road yet). After I finish the car I'm getting a pair of new 
struts for both doors.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> > Don't  have them display the car with the doors open (put extra 
strain on the torsion bar and strut) I was told by Rob Grady that leaving the doors open actually minimizes the strain on the torsion bar and struts. It is my understanding that when the doors are closed, both the torsion bar and struts are "loaded". When open, they both are in a non-stressed state.
> 
> -Hank #1619




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:48:57 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant

Antifreeze can comein any color (green, yellow, orange, red, etc..). 
Just because it looks fresh dosn't mean it is. I have never heard of 
blue antifreeze, maybe the previous owner put in an addative to it 
that made it that color? I would just flush out the system and start 
with new fresh fluids. With any used car you get it's always wise to 
replace all fluids and start fresh so you know when how old it is 
and will know when it's time to change them again. There is a tester 
you can buy that will test the antifreeze to see if it's still good 
using a Hydrometer. This will test the strength of the antifreeze. 
There are a few types such as one squeeze a rubber bulb to suck some 
antifreeze into a chamber that has a meter on it (nothing fancy, no 
electronics just all plastic pieces) and the other are test strips 
that you dip into the antifreeze and they change color to determine 
the strength.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Does anyone know what color the factory antifreeze was?  I was 
going to change mine since I don't know if it ever has been, but it 
looked fresh, so I put it back in.  It is blue but I have never seen blue 
> before (or heard of it.)  If it is original, do I still need to 
> replace it even if it is clean or not?
> Thanks
> Cam




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:49:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stranded in my Driveway Again...

Hey everybody!

Having quite the problem with my D lately.  It's a
huge non-start problem.  She only starts when she's
jumped.  The battery isn't dead, in fact it's brand
new.  Then the problem is, there's very little juice
when she's started, so the fuel pump kicks in and out.
 Is this a ground problem or what?  Where do I start
searching?!  Please help!

-Sean Mulligan
 vin #10054



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/