From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1139
Date: Thursday, August 01, 2002 4:02 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

2. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

3. THE engine
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

7. Re: tough transmission again
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

8. Re: tough transmission again
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

9. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: tough transmission again
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

12. Re: Re: THE engine
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

13. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Goodyear tires
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and, Torsion Bars)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and Torsion Bars)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

18. NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

19. Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>

20. Fwd: PRV V-6 toys & HP
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

21. Brakes from Rimmer bros site
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: tough transmission again
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Fire damaged panels
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. what kind of turbo?
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:24:31 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing

Erik,

I have had some experience with refurbishing burned SS panels.
The most important issues are how hot did the fire get, what is the
'color' of the discoloration and how much is the panel warped?
Fenders are the easiest to refurbish, then the T-panel, then the doors
and last the hood (primarily because it is such a large, flat area).
The key to either a burn refinish or a dent repair and refinish is
blending the refinished areas into the rest of the panel.
Like SS panel dent repairs, this takes time and patience.

The process I used does get very involved, based on panel condition,
but feel free to email me off-list for the details.

Later,
Rich W.
  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi,
> can the stains from a fire be taken out of stainless steel panels?  
I 
> know that if the doors get burned then they warp on top, but what 
> about fenders?  Can panels with very light fire damage be fixed with 
> some elbo grease?
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Erik




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:41:47 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat

You know, Fanzilla or SpecialTauto's (less expensive) fan fix kits, do 
wonders to remedy the notorious relay problems and will keep your fans 
running. I recommend that you invest in either of these products. Anyone will 
tell you of the dangers of the original fan fail relay (do you still have the 
original blue relay?) However, what DMC Joe is discussing is the fact that 
air is prone to enter the system and stop up the thermostadt causing blockage 
in the cooling system. The cooling system is about 18 feet of pipes from 
engine to radiator with about 30-40 joins between pipes and hoses, air gets 
in all the time. DMCJoe sells a device, an automatic bleeder, that lets the 
air escape into the overflow bottle. I find this little device to be 
invaluable, it does its job and does it well. Every "member" of the ETDOC has 
one, and we do mountainous hill climbs at each event we have, we've yet to 
have an overheat. I fully recommend looking into these products. They saved 
me a lot of headaches and cured my cooling woes.

John Weaver
East Tennessee DeLorean Owners Club
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:52:59 -0000
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: THE engine

Thank you all for such a great words of wisdom. Jim gave me the 
greatest advise of all, which were all the details of his project. He 
put it mildly that its gonna cost but the results will be 
unbelievable! Can you guys believe that the D with 300hp engine will 
go from 0-60 under 5 seconds ?!

Anyways, for all you other folks that care, this is my project car 
and not my daily transportation veh. I drive around in 2002 525i. So 
again, thnx Jim and please sent me more info about your swaps, 
misshaps and ideas. I know this all has been done or tried before, 
believe me I read allllll of the letters posted...TWICE, but I havnt 
found any of the info that Jim had sent me. 

Some of you guys dont care about this stuff, some of us do, if you 
want to put your 2 cents in please e-mail me privately at 
VegasCop1_at_dml_aol.com.

thnx again for all your help, I never knew..well, probably no one 
knows that D owners are such a tight group of people, thats awesome!

Ski

PS.
ohh guess what, its 115 deg's F out here in vegas and my D is giving 
me hard time starting, geezz I guess its the cold start valve 
or...the hot valve? hmmmm...I guess that engine swap will have to 
come sooner than I expected. I really dont know how you guys do it, 
its a full time job with constantly replacing parts that break or 
dont work just by sitting there in the garage. ( that was on the 
lighter side, no disrespect intended for anyone, but the problem is 
real) 

Take care guys and keep those D's on the road!





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 17:10:42 EDT
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)

John Cabral              
781 5859899
there is that better


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:03:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)

I agree! I would suggest Mr jrc2905 was damn lucky he was able to realign the bracket
when under the correct torque. DO NOT attempt this task without at least one other person
and a support for the door. I do however agree that taking the louvers off makes life
easier.

Martin
#1458

Scott Mueller wrote:

> It would be nice if jrc2905 would sign his name and give his phone number at
> the end of his post on adjusting torsion bars.
>
> If you follow the procedure he listed below, the risk is very high for
> damage and personal injury.  Contact one of the service providers for
> advice.  Some of the clubs sponsor door adjustment parties periodically.

<snip>




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:19:33 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?

For vinyl and plastic interior surfaces, I prefer Vinylex from the makers
of Lexol leather treatment. http://www.lexol.com/vinindex.html

It has a UV inhibitor in it and seems to do a good job of protecting the
surfaces I've used it on. I've seen it for sale at various auto supply and
hardware stores.

303 protectant (available at boat and pool supply stores) is another one
that is very good. Also has a UV inhibitor and is better for outdoor use
than Vinylex. A lot of the convertable drivers love it.
http://www.teammiata.com/303products/vinyl.htm has more info.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 09:17 AM 7/31/02 EDT, you wrote:
>Alot of our dashes are a type of plastic over a thin layer of foam and they 
>always crack!
>
>Some of us use these:
>Baby Oil
>Vaseline
>Saddlesoap
>Mineral Oil
>Suntan Lotion
>ArmourAll
>
>Any ideas???  I was hoping that other car collectors would have an idea that 
>has proven
>good over the test of time.
>
>Thanks,
>Anna Noe
>88 &89 Isuzu Impulse Turbos
>92 Subaru SVX
>85, 87,87,89 300zx's
>88 Conquest TSI
>My Very Own D someday!
>




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:41:06 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: tough transmission again

Willie - In addition to spraying the linkage that is visible through 
the shifter boot opening, and from underneath the car at the front of 
the transmission, you need to lubricate the large cable that goes from 
the shifter to the transmission.  This cable does all of the 
side-to-side work, while the rod does the front-to-back and rotating 
work.  It sounds like you have most of the problem in the side-to-side 
movement, so the cable is of primary importance to you.  I would get a 
good grade of liquid lubricant (light oil with teflon, for instance, 
or a thin grease), or a special cable lubricant, and inject as much as 
you can into both ends of the cable.  The forward end is attached to 
the shifter bell crank (if memory serves) and the aft end is attached 
to a bracket at the front end of the transmission.  This should help 
you to get lasting relief from the stiff shifter.  Always keep an eye 
on the little bushings that are part of the attachment of the rod to 
the transmission input shaft.  These bushings are rubber, and can be 
easily damaged.  If you lose some of them, the shifter will feel 
sloppy, and your shifting will be "less than smooth".

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
>After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on 
the linkage.  It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem 
is back again.  It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to 
right or right to left.  Do i need to put some all purpose grease on 
it or what?
> 





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:41:40 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: tough transmission again

Willie - In addition to spraying the linkage that is visible through 
the shifter boot opening, and from underneath the car at the front of 
the transmission, you need to lubricate the large cable that goes from 
the shifter to the transmission.  This cable does all of the 
side-to-side work, while the rod does the front-to-back and rotating 
work.  It sounds like you have most of the problem in the side-to-side 
movement, so the cable is of primary importance to you.  I would get a 
good grade of liquid lubricant (light oil with teflon, for instance, 
or a thin grease), or a special cable lubricant, and inject as much as 
you can into both ends of the cable.  The forward end is attached to 
the shifter bell crank (if memory serves) and the aft end is attached 
to a bracket at the front end of the transmission.  This should help 
you to get lasting relief from the stiff shifter.  Always keep an eye 
on the little bushings that are part of the attachment of the rod to 
the transmission input shaft.  These bushings are rubber, and can be 
easily damaged.  If you lose some of them, the shifter will feel 
sloppy, and your shifting will be "less than smooth".

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
>After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on 
the linkage.  It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem 
is back again.  It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to 
right or right to left.  Do i need to put some all purpose grease on 
it or what?
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 00:32:19 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat

Hi John

The stock fan-fail module (the blue thing in the relay compartment) detects an imbalance
between the two fans and lights the light. If you still have it remove it NOW and replace
with jumper wires. With 4 crimped spade terminals you can use the fan-fail light to tell
you when voltage is being sent to the fans.

As far as your question is concerned the FanZilla simply restores the proper function of
the fan fail module (it does other useful stuff too). The FanZilla also replaces the
single weak relay which drives the fans.

My personal experience on #1458 is that it takes a lot for it to get hot enough for the
fans to cut in. It stays remarkably cool most of the time. #2727 gets hot really quickly
but the fans are there to ensure the radiator is cooled when there is no air-flow through
it (you're in traffic). With the fans on, #2727 controls its temperature fine also (it
just seems to generate more heat). It has also been spitting a bit of excess coolant out
when turned off, but it has only just been put back together and things are still
"settling"

If you want to test the fans' function. Remove the connector(s) to the thermostat
(coolant pipe, left hand side of engine bay) and short them, and turn the ignition on.
Your fans should both switch on.

Martin
#1458

BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC heats up.
> I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it up a bit,
> and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to keep the car
> cool.) and it was in operable temperatures.
> My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First-the fan fail
> light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does it mean
> they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so the other
> one shuts off?
> Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a failsafe
> device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech section from
> DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two
> radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So, is
> Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower speeds, will
> the heat stay down?
>
> By the by, just wanted to thank Walt for the major help in my troubles with
> the passenger door, especially with those two "evil bolts of death."
>
> Thank you all very much.
> John
> 4275
>



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 01:40:29 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source

>SNIP< 
> If you use other calapers in the front than the originals, you 
have a 
> problem because they lock up first. The only way to fix this 
problem 
> is to install a brake pressure switch who seperates the front and 
> rear brakes.

HUH? The front and Rear calipers are already on separate lines. They 
do not have a common pipe. One pipe for the two front calipers goes 
to one port of the brake Master Cylinder and the other pipe for the 
rear calipers goes to another port on the Master Cylinders. The 
ports on the Master Cylinders are already their own entity (separate 
from one another). This was done in case one of the set of brakes 
has a problem the other functioning ones will work since they are on 
separate links. The fronts "share" a port on the Master Cylinder via 
a "T" split, same holds true for the rear BUT the front are isolated 
front the rear. The only thing that the front and real calipers 
share is the Brake Fluid Reservoir. Equal amount of pressure will go 
to all Calipers (front and rear) on a working system. Pressure 
regulators are used on computer controlled brake systems...not fully 
manual ones like the Delorean.

Steve

> SNIP<
> 
> If you have any questions, email me privately (ed_at_dml_u...)
> 
> www.dmc-service.nl




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:51:42 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: tough transmission again

In a message dated 7/30/02 11:09:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, wmack_at_dml_vt.edu 
writes:

<< sprayed wd40 on the
 linkage.  It solved my problem for about 2 days,  >>
WD-40 is not a long term answer, and in some cases I've seen increased rust 
afterwards in areas treated with WD-40.
Jim 6147



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:53:03 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: THE engine

In a message dated 7/30/02 11:10:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

<< Everything you've described has been done (except for the power 
 steering I think)  >>
Have you checked out the power steering rack from the Triumph Stag?
Jim 6147



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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 03:26:56 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat

Do you still have the original fanfail plugged in or do you have a 
Fanzilla? If you have the original fanfail then you need to get rid 
of it and either install the Fanzilla or the Fan Fail fix wires.

Your overheating problem can be caused by air trapped in the system 
and installing DMCJoes bleeder kit is a very good idea. Another 
cause can be that the Antifreeze has either broken down and is not 
good anymore or there was more Antifreeze to water mixed in the 
system. The mixture should be a 50/50 mix. Most people top off their 
system with Antifreeze without considering diluting it with water 
first (again 50/50 mix) which causes the system to have more 
antifreeze then water.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., BondAtomic_at_dml_a... wrote:
> To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC 
heats up. 
> I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it 
up a bit, 
> and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to 
keep the car 
> cool.) and it was in operable temperatures. 
> My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First-
the fan fail 
> light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does 
it mean 
> they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so 
the other 
> one shuts off? 
> Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a 
failsafe 
> device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech 
section from 
> DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two 
> radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So, 
is 
> Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower 
speeds, will 
> the heat stay down?
> 
> By the by, just wanted to thank Walt for the major help in my 
troubles with 
> the passenger door, especially with those two "evil bolts of 
death."
> 
> Thank you all very much.
> John
> 4275
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 03:30:43 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Goodyear tires

When in doubt I always look at the tire itself. The manufacture 
always "prints" the tire presure on the tire amongst all the other 
numbers (tire sizes and such). You'll see it there with the PSI at 
the end of the number.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Does anyone know the correct tire pressure of the 
> Goodyear Eagle GT II tires?
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 03:45:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and, Torsion Bars)

Yahoo is such a mystery to me. Some people can figure out my eMail
address from the truncated vesion that accompanies each post, others
reply through the group. The latter is a total waste of bandwidth, so
please feel free to contact me direct: brobertson(at)carolina.net.






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 04:06:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and Torsion Bars)

Yahoo is such a mystery to me. Some people can figure out my eMail
address from the truncated version that accompanies each post. Others
reply through the group. The latter is a total waste of bandwidth, so
please feel free to contact me direct: brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net.

#5939 came home to southeast North Carolina today. Trip south was
blissfully uneventful. BTW: where do all the complaints about D
performance come from? I had difficulty holding the car to 75 mph.
Perhaps it is the replacement engine (mine is PRV but not 100%
DeLorean, at least per tech manual). Perhaps it is the manual
transmission vs an automatic. Don't know, but I was a happy camper
(the repaired A/C and stereo helped).

NCT's performed excellent. I'm willing to sell them individually, but
would like to offer them as a complete set first (for the benefit of
anyone who needs 4). May be early next week before I get all the GT's
mounted (am taking only the rims in 2 at a time). If no one has
requested the complete set by then, will go w/ individual sales.
Anyone have any idea how to ship a tire?

Have received a promising torsion bar adjustment offer in neighboring
South Carolina. Keep your fingers crossed... FYI: have two new Rob
Grady custom struts socketed up. Passenger door is great on either.
Unfortunately I enter the vehicle through the driver's door. Rob
recommends adjusting the torsion bar (his struts are not overcharged
-- ball studs). I am quickly learning to follow his advice.

Bill Robertson
#5939 (in *MY* driveway *AT LAST*)





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 04:38:47 -0000
From: "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

Dear List,

I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch 
melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to switch 
off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on 
position.  As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery 
might wear down soon.  I had to disconnect the switch and upon closer 
inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had 
melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".  
This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and I 
never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion.  I didn't get 
much use out of the switch.  I am wondering if there is an upgrade or 
a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" switch.  
Thanks,


Joseph
vin 2850




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 02:45:52 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)

Well .. here is the update ..
 
First off .. thanks to all for your help so far! :-)
 
I have found I mixed up some of the vacuum lines and corrected the
problem
 
Now the car starts .
 
BUT!! And a big but
 
I double checked the timing. and its fine.
 
It will run . but really rough . I adjusted the 3mm hex in the mixture
control unit
 
Tried advancing and retarding the timing..
 
And can get it to idle around 2000 rpm
 
Anything lower and it cuts out
 
As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes from
the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
 
Suggestions?!
 
Thanks again all for your help
 
-Kenneth
05541
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 06:47:51 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>
Subject: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?

Armour All will give you a good shine, if you want that much, but 
not much more except from sunscreen protection. Armour All 
DOESN'T condition vinyl or leather AT ALL. 

What you use does depend on condition. For example if you 
have hard vinyl or leather then you need a deep condition. For 
leather people have useds olive oil, minerial, mink oil etc. these 
do reasonably well. If you really want to soften vinyl or leather 
from rock hard to back to factory soft use something like 
Leatherique. recommend by many Rolls Royce, Corvette, Jag, 
Mercedes groups and it works like a charm but not cheap.

For regular mild conditioning again of leather the oils will work. 
I've heard many people mention the suntan lotation but it needs t 
be the cheap generic kind. The more natual ingrediants the 
better. remember leather is skin.

Leatherique will also work for deep condition on vinvl. And for 
good annual maintance. Use something with a good sunscreen 
to reduce UV.

Jeremy


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dqauto_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hi!
> 
> We have a huge discussion going on at the www.z31.com 
website for Nissan 
> Zcars and I was hoping that some of you might have some 
input or advice.
> 
> We have been tossing around the question about TO 
ARMOUR ALL OR NOT???
> 
> Alot of our dashes are a type of plastic over a thin layer of foam 
and they 
> always crack!
> 
> Some of us use these:
> Baby Oil
> Vaseline
> Saddlesoap
> Mineral Oil
> Suntan Lotion
> ArmourAll
> 
> Any ideas???  I was hoping that other car collectors would 
have an idea that 
> has proven
> good over the test of time.
> 
> Thanks,
> Anna Noe
> 88 &89 Isuzu Impulse Turbos
> 92 Subaru SVX
> 85, 87,87,89 300zx's
> 88 Conquest TSI
> My Very Own D someday!
> 
> Don't just dream the dream, live the dream, and drive 
Stainless! 
> DeLorean DMC-12...




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:03:21 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Fwd: PRV V-6 toys & HP


This is from the PRV engine list.

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 12:59:44 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Brakes from Rimmer bros site

I emailed the company that sells the brakes systems for the TR7 car 
to see if they could indeed fit onto a Delorean (vented front rotors 
with 4 piston calipes) and I recieved a reply:

Dear Mr Rubano,

I very much doubt that the TR7 or TR8 parts are interchangable with 
the delorean units.  Without a delorean in our workshop to compare 
with, may I suggest we will be unable to ascertain the 
interchangability of the break components.

Apologies.

Regards,

Mike Collins.
A.M.I.M.I
Warranty Manager.

So is there anyone in that area with a Delorean that can pop by and 
have them look at it's setup? I would do this myself but I'm in the 
US.

Steve




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:43:23 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)

Having adjusted more than 1 door I think I can say that it is easier 
to make the tools to do the job safely then to take the rear louvres 
off. There is a really great article in Delorean World on not only how 
to do the adjustments but what tools you need and how to make the 
support bracket. Try to get a reprint.
 Trying to adjust a torsion bar alone is foolish, what happens if you 
dropped the anchor bracket? How would you pick it up off the floor? 
There is a tremendous amount of energy in the system and just for 
safety purposes this should not be attempted alone. It is best to at 
least see it being done by someone experienced in this procedure and 
see how it is done with the proper tools before trying yourself. This 
is one of the most dangerous things you can do on a Delorean with the 
potential for bodily injury AND serious damage to the car. Price a 
rear window before attempting to adjust the torsion bar! Sometimes the 
parts do not come apart easily and you have to work the anchor bracket 
off and sometimes the bolts holding the bracket are stripped. When 
working on the torsion bars you must be prepared for things not to 
always "go right". This cannot be done when alone or without the 
proper tools. Try to work safe, it isn't worth the risk to get hurt at 
this hobby. When I adjust torsion bars I use a door prop from the door 
sill to the bottom edge of the door, not from the ground, because if 
the car was to move the door could fall. I also use a lock on the 
strut as a back-up. Lay a large towel over the rear quater panel to 
avoid scratching the stainless when leaning over. Remenber the rear 
edge of the "T" panel is exposed after removing the rear plastic trim 
so it is easy to cut yourself working on the anchor brackets and 
bolts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I agree! I would suggest Mr jrc2905 was damn lucky he was able to 
realign the bracket
> when under the correct torque. DO NOT attempt this task without at 
least one other person
> and a support for the door. I do however agree that taking the 
louvers off makes life
> easier.
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> 
> Scott Mueller wrote:
> 
> > It would be nice if jrc2905 would sign his name and give his phone 
number at
> > the end of his post on adjusting torsion bars.
> >
> > If you follow the procedure he listed below, the risk is very high 
for
> > damage and personal injury.  Contact one of the service providers 
for
> > advice.  Some of the clubs sponsor door adjustment parties 
periodically.
> 
> <snip>




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:51:49 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: tough transmission again

The best thing you can do is to just dissassemble the linkage, inspect 
for worn, bent parts, lubricate, reassemble and adjust according to 
the procedure in the Workshop Manual. You may find the pivot bolt is 
bent and on the verge of breaking. NEVER force into gear, if it does 
not shift easily fix before it breaks.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:
> Willie - In addition to spraying the linkage that is visible through 
> the shifter boot opening, and from underneath the car at the front 
of 
> the transmission, you need to lubricate the large cable that goes 
from 
> the shifter to the transmission.  This cable does all of the 
> side-to-side work, while the rod does the front-to-back and rotating 
> work.  It sounds like you have most of the problem in the 
side-to-side 
> movement, so the cable is of primary importance to you.  I would get 
a 
> good grade of liquid lubricant (light oil with teflon, for instance, 
> or a thin grease), or a special cable lubricant, and inject as much 
as 
> you can into both ends of the cable.  The forward end is attached to 
> the shifter bell crank (if memory serves) and the aft end is 
attached 
> to a bracket at the front end of the transmission.  This should help 
> you to get lasting relief from the stiff shifter.  Always keep an 
eye 
> on the little bushings that are part of the attachment of the rod to 
> the transmission input shaft.  These bushings are rubber, and can be 
> easily damaged.  If you lose some of them, the shifter will feel 
> sloppy, and your shifting will be "less than smooth".
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> >After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on 
> the linkage.  It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem 
> is back again.  It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to 
> right or right to left.  Do i need to put some all purpose grease on 
> it or what?
> >




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:57:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fire damaged panels

If the panels aren't warped from the heat then you can clean them up 
with 80# and then 120# sandpaper followed by a rub-down with a 
blending pad. That will remove any blue discoloration. If the panels 
are warped then they must first be "shrunk" back to shape by the 
application of heat and then quenching. This requires an experienced 
bodyman.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi,
> can the stains from a fire be taken out of stainless steel panels?  
I 
> know that if the doors get burned then they warp on top, but what 
> about fenders?  Can panels with very light fire damage be fixed with 
> some elbo grease?
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Erik




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 11:38:38 -0400
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: what kind of turbo?

Hello,  
I am curious as to what kind of turbo this is.  I have never seen one on a DMC that looks quite like this.  just curious


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1848008144

Dave
6286



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