From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1141
Date: Friday, August 02, 2002 8:59 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: lighted door key on early cars...
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

4. Re: Re: Goodyear tires
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

5. Re: Headlamp switch
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

6. Re: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Dave Swingle Adjust Torsion Bars In Neighboring South Carolina?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. DeLorean Tech-Work Day
From: greglinstad <greglinstad_at_dml_resrchintl.com>

9. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

10. Brake proportioning valve
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: tough transmission again
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: THE engine
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

15. Re: Goodyear tires
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. PRV V-6 toys & HP
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

19. Re: Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: Josh Weader <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>

21. RE: what kind of turbo?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

22. Re: lighted door key button repair kit
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

23. Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

24. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 21:20:39 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source

The original poster called them Pressure regulators so I just copied 
it into it. BTW...when I said on a computer controlled Brake system 
I meant anything that is electronic that is connected to the brake 
system to "contol" a certain function. I'm still stuck on working on 
ABS systems and more modern cars with all the fancy wiring going 
into the brake system. I keep forgetting the "mecahnical" ones like 
the Delorean as opposed to the "electrical" ones. I guess I'm just a 
youngen. :P

Steve 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I think you're thinking of a proportioning valve, and they're used 
on many
> more cars than just the "computer controlled" other wise, you'd be 
getting
> the rear wheels locking up all of the time.  Under even moderate 
breaking a
> lot of weight is shifted off of the rear and on to the front.  If 
equal
> pressure is delivered to all four brakes (simultaneously even... 
some
> proportioning valves include a fraction-of-a-second delay) it will 
result in
> the rear wheels locking in the most awkward of manners.
> 
> Granted, the Delorean rear-end has some, um, ballast, and I'm not 
sure how
> its system is proportioned front-rear, but I can assure you that 
many cars
> (especially light, FWD configurations) get proportioned regardless 
of
> whether or not they have computer intervention.
> 
> Josh Keady
> (no D, but I like cars...)
> http://www.wizzards.net/keady/
> 
> on 7/31/02 6:40 PM, basfe25 at dmcman73_at_dml_h... wrote:
> 
> snip
> > Pressure 
> > regulators are used on computer controlled brake systems...not 
fully
> > manual ones like the Delorean.
> > 
> snip




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 21:24:23 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

I remember when I had my Jeep the headlight switch on that melted. 
It was due to poor contacts and me having the brights on for a long 
time. The brights I guess draw more power...did you have your 
brights on? Just a guess.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Dear List,
> 
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch 
> melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to 
switch 
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on 
> position.  As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the 
battery 
> might wear down soon.  I had to disconnect the switch and upon 
closer 
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had 
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".  
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One 
and I 
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion.  I didn't 
get 
> much use out of the switch.  I am wondering if there is an upgrade 
or 
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" 
switch.  
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Joseph
> vin 2850




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 17:28:01 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: lighted door key on early cars...

Contact James Espey at Delorean Motors.  He may be able to help you with 
your lighted key.

Bill Lane
#3635




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 16:34:05 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Goodyear tires

that number on the tire is not what you inflate to. you go by the vehicle mfg
suggestion. example... tires on a mustang.... the tire says 40 psi... the plate on the
car says 32 psi.... run with the 40 psi and you will wear the middle of the tread out of
the tire..... run with 20 psi and you will wear the outside tread off the tire. the
vehicle mfg weight is what determines the pressure of the tire, not the psi number on
the tire. if this was true about the psi number on the tire almost all of us would be
wearing out our tires prematurely. by the way i learned this changing tires at a
goodyear store that i worked at for over 2 years.

later
mark

basfe25 wrote:

> When in doubt I always look at the tire itself. The manufacture
> always "prints" the tire presure on the tire amongst all the other
> numbers (tire sizes and such). You'll see it there with the PSI at
> the end of the number.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> > Does anyone know the correct tire pressure of the
> > Goodyear Eagle GT II tires?



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 23:37:32 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch

On 01-08-2002, Joseph wrote:

> I searched the archives and found nothing
> on the headlamp switch melting.

I didn't search as I KNOW this has come up at least once:
I had a similar problem and posted pictures of what had happened:
<http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Techie+Stuff/LMS+-+L
ights+Master+Switch>

> I am wondering if there is an upgrade or a fix or
> should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" switch.

I came up with an upgrade to prevent this from happening again too,
but you DO have to get a new Lights Master Switch...
Have a look at:
<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html>

The contacts seem to get to the point of melting the plastic due
to dust and/or debris from the sliding of the (non lubricated)
contacts over each others' surfaces...

Hope this helps, want to know more,
drop me an email...

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 23:09:33 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)

David, I have all the back issues of DW, have read the article, and originally did my car
with the louvers attached. I stand by my position that it's a damn site easier with the
lovers off and a wrench directly on the end of the bar. The only hassle is lining the
louvers back up again afterwards!

Martin
#1458

jtrealtywebspannet wrote:

> Having adjusted more than 1 door I think I can say that it is easier
> to make the tools to do the job safely then to take the rear louvres
> off. There is a really great article in Delorean World on not only how
> to do the adjustments but what tools you need and how to make the
> support bracket. Try to get a reprint.




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:07:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Dave Swingle Adjust Torsion Bars In Neighboring South Carolina?

Have generous offer from Dave Swingle to perform technical part of
procedure in neighboring state (I think I'm there to watch & hold
things). We know he can manage a newsgroup. Think he can adjust a
torsion bar too?

Bill Robertson
#5939


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>  Trying to adjust a torsion bar alone is foolish, what happens if you 
> dropped the anchor bracket? How would you pick it up off the floor? 
> There is a tremendous amount of energy in the system and just for 
> safety purposes this should not be attempted alone. It is best to at 
> least see it being done by someone experienced in this procedure and 
> see how it is done with the proper tools before trying yourself. This 
> is one of the most dangerous things you can do on a Delorean with the 
> potential for bodily injury AND serious damage to the car. Price a 
> rear window before attempting to adjust the torsion bar! 

> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:49:02 -0700
From: greglinstad <greglinstad_at_dml_resrchintl.com>
Subject: DeLorean Tech-Work Day

As Marty announced about the MidState Tech-Work day this Saturday (Aug 3), the Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club coincidentaly also has one of it's quarterly Tech Sessions at a members' house in Kirkland, WA on the same day. Detailed information available by contacting a Club Officer listed on the website (pndc.org). If you have never attended one of these sessions (sponsored by various Clubs, groups, Vendors), now may be the time to bring your car, meet some experienced owners, and learn that working on a DeLorean can be a fun and rewarding event. We typically adjust torsion bars and door latches, install overheat protectors, replace TAB's, general upgrades and troubleshooting, etc. 

Thanks

Greg Linstad
pndc.org

 



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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:20:53 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

I've had the same thing happen, apparently somewhat common. But not 
to a "new" switch, just to an old one. I'll bet the operative phrase 
here will be "no returns on electrical parts". You'll probably have 
to buy another one.

You were lucky, when it happened to mine it the lights would only 
stay on if I held the switch in with my finger. Interesting drive 
home in the dark, with a manual transmission car.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Dear List,
> 

> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on 
> position.  As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery 
> might wear down soon.  I had to disconnect the switch and upon 
closer 
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had 
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".  
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and 
I 
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion.  I didn't get 
> much use out of the switch.  I am wondering if there is an upgrade 
or 
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" 
switch.  





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:27:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Brake proportioning valve

I'm afraid Josh is correct on a car w/ rear drums. Without the
proportioning valve, braking is rather squirrely (trust me -- I've
tried it). On 4 wheel disc however does not seem to be necessary (I've
done that too, but it *IS* a 5,000 pound Lincoln). Guess it's because
hydraulic fluid is self adjusting. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> In a message dated 8/1/02 11:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> dmcman73_at_dml_h... writes:
> 
> << HUH? The front and Rear calipers are already on separate lines. They 
>  do not have a common pipe. One pipe for the two front calipers goes 
>  to one port of the brake Master Cylinder and the other pipe for the 
>  rear calipers goes to another port on the Master Cylinders. The 
>  ports on the Master Cylinders are already their own entity (separate 
>  from one another). >>
> 





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:06:18 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?

Mark and others, I add SPF 15 + to the leather treatments and increase the 
protection. Has a little sun tan smell for a few days, but it works. If you 
use a damp to wet cloth to apply, you might also see some discoloration go 
away. Mine did.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

<< For vinyl and plastic interior surfaces, I prefer Vinylex from the makers
 of Lexol leather treatment. http://www.lexol.com/vinindex.html
 
 It has a UV inhibitor in it and seems to do a good job of protecting the
 surfaces I've used it on. I've seen it for sale at various auto supply and
 hardware stores. >>



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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:11:57 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: tough transmission again

Willie, If you will look on my web site you will see a spray grease that has 
Teflon in it. It goes on like WD40 and solidifies to a high temp grease. I 
use it all over the car and it's great. It also is good on the hinges and 
torsion bar. It will get in those places you can't reach and it protects from 
rust. It's under other products.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/other.shtml


<< After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on the
 linkage.  It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem is back
 again.  It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to right or right
 to left.  Do i need to put some all purpose grease on it or what?
  >>



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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:14:59 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: THE engine

I was just wondering, What clutch system would you put in it to hold up to 
the power. The standard may not work long.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

<< I am putting the all aluminum 
 > 32 valve Northstar engine that produces 300hp stock and weighing only 
 > 50lbs more (give or take few lbs). 
 > With the 2700lb weight of the Delorean and 300hp engine I will expect 
 > nothing less than at least 0-60 in 6 second flat, if not less! Next  >>



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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 03:23:02 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?

Hello,

If your looking for a good product for the vinyl (not to use on the 
leather seats), check out http://www.liquidglass.com  Go out and buy 
their connoisseur's choice cleaner and their conditioner.  Clean 
your car well about 2 times using a d tooth brush for any tuff stain 
and apply the conditioner about once.  It leaves a low shine and is 
good for about 3 months.  Has mink oil in in that is great for 
conditioning.  All of their products i have used so far seem to work 
incredibly well compared to others i have tried.  And no i do not 
sell them.

- Shain
#10140




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 03:51:29 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Goodyear tires

DO NOT GO BY THE PRESSURE ON THE TIRE! This pressure is the maximum 
pressure that can be put into a cold tire for the maximun load 
carrying capacity of the tire. This is NOT the recomended inflation 
pressure for the proper ride and handling as determined by the factory 
engineers of the car. For the correct tire pressures all auto 
manufacturers are required to attach a load label with the recommended 
pressures, tire sizes and vehicle weight and capacity. On the Delorean 
this label is on the inside of the door for the glove box. FYI the 
front tires are to be 23 psi, the rears 30 psi and the spare 60 psi. 
If you have changed the tires to a different size then on the label 
then you should be no more than 5 psi above or below. NEVER exceed the 
tire pressure on the side of the tire, always check tire pressures 
when cold, driven less than 3 miles or after at least 3 hours. Tire 
pressure should be checked monthly or before a long trip. Do not trust 
a visual inspection for tire pressure, you to use an accurate pressure 
gauge. This advice is good for all automotive applications.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> When in doubt I always look at the tire itself. The manufacture 
> always "prints" the tire presure on the tire amongst all the other 
> numbers (tire sizes and such). You'll see it there with the PSI at 
> the end of the number.
> 
> Steve
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> > Does anyone know the correct tire pressure of the 
> > Goodyear Eagle GT II tires?



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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 03:58:26 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)

If your exhaust is glowing that is a sign that the engine is running 
overrich. Do not continue to operate as this will damage the CAT. It 
would have been best if you didn't mess with the mixture screw. Try to 
put it back in it's origional position if you can. Make sure the cold 
start valve is shutting down, in fact after it starts remove the plug 
from it. Again make sure there are no vacuum leaks, it sounds like you 
are making the mixture too rich to compensate for vacuum leaks which 
tend to lean the air-fuel ratio. Make sure there is a plug on the 
mixture unit over the mixture adjusting screw, with the plug missing 
there is a huge vacuum leak.
David Teitelbuam
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Well .. here is the update ..
>  
> First off .. thanks to all for your help so far! :-)
>  
> I have found I mixed up some of the vacuum lines and corrected the
> problem
>  
> Now the car starts .
>  
> BUT!! And a big but
>  
> I double checked the timing. and its fine.
>  
> It will run . but really rough . I adjusted the 3mm hex in the 
mixture
> control unit
>  
> Tried advancing and retarding the timing..
>  
> And can get it to idle around 2000 rpm
>  
> Anything lower and it cuts out
>  
> As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes 
from
> the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
>  
> Suggestions?!
>  
> Thanks again all for your help
>  
> -Kenneth
> 05541
>  
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 04:03:11 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

It is possible that there is a problem with the wiring in your car 
that caused the switch to melt from an overcurrent condition and by 
just getting another switch you won't fix the problem. You need to 
determine if the current draw in that circuit is excessive. Generally 
the switches don't melt, they wear out and get stuck but anything may 
be possible.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Dear List,
> 
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch 
> melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to 
switch 
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on 
> position.  As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery 
> might wear down soon.  I had to disconnect the switch and upon 
closer 
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had 
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".  
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and 
I 
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion.  I didn't get 
> much use out of the switch.  I am wondering if there is an upgrade 
or 
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" switch. 
 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Joseph
> vin 2850




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 01:49:13 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: PRV V-6 toys & HP


  This is from the PRV engine list.

  Best Wishes,
  Michael Pack

<<<<<This is from the PRV engine list.

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack


Forwarded Message: 
Subj:    Fwd: PRV V-6 toys.
Date:   08/01/2002 4:24:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time
F

------- Start of forwarded message -------

Subject: PRV V-6 toys.
From: "John Lane" <
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 08:47:35 -0700

HelloI have been interested in the PRV V-6 engine since my father purchased a 
'76Volvo wagon (in 1980) which was equipped with that anemic 2.7 liter 
engineI have owned several Volvos with this engine, and have put togethera 
'76 Volvo Rallycar which is equipped with an even firing 3 liter PRV V-6with 
a nice big turbocharger that makes 500 horses A rather amusing toy to say the 
least. It has been an ongoing project since 1994, andhas a lot more power 
then I could ever hope to put to use on gravel,but it certainly is a croud 
pleaser I am curious to know more about the 24 valve version of this engine. 
Was that version ever turbocharged ? I am also interested in the 'short 
stroke' version of the engine, as it would be fun to put together a 4valve 
short stroke engine with really long connecting rods to make a really 
nicenoise at high revs and smoke the competition in the USA 'under 2.4 
liter'class, rallying in this country. Thoughts? I can be reached at 
jlane_at_dml_pacrimauto.comHave a good day!!John Lane->>>>>>



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 02:24:23 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat

John,   Yeah you need to yank that blue plug ASAP. That thing is a sure fire 
way to ensure that your engine overheats. Get the Zilla or the Fan Fix Dual 
2x2 by SpecialTauto.com. I personally opted for the latter and have not been 
disappointed, of course nor have my friends with FanZilla, but I payed a lot 
less. Get the overheat protector from DMCJoe, it is a lifesaver. That should 
set you straight, but make sure you get that _at_dml_#$^%ed blue relay out and 
replaced by something STAT.

John Weaver
East Tennessee Delorean Owners Club
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 06:27:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Josh Weader <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also


> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to switch
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on

Yup, it happens, and more frequently than people might expect.  I had mine
melt on me one night after a long evening of driving with the headlights
on.  I had the reverse problem as you -- because of the way the switch
melted, I couldn't get the headlights to stay on by themselves without
manually holding the switch in.  Very difficult to drive and shift when
you've got one hand holding the headlights on.

At the time, when I ordered a new part from Houston, Warren said he
couldn't remember hearing of that happening before.  Within a week, two or
three other people on this list had experienced the same problem.  I don't
remember that we ever reached a definitive conclusion as to what exactly
was causing the switches to melt, other than the obvious "too much heat
generated by the juice flowing through the switch".

--Josh

#5553




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 07:35:07 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: what kind of turbo?

This is one of the early kits that were offered.  I had seen photos of this type of setup before, but it is one of the less common ones.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] what kind of turbo?
> 
> 
> Hello,  
> I am curious as to what kind of turbo this is.  I have never 
> seen one on a DMC that looks quite like this.  just curious
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=
> 1848008144
> 
> Dave
> 6286
> 



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:02:27 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: lighted door key button repair kit

John,

I believe DMCH (DMC Humble, formerly DMC Houston) should still have
repair or rebuild kits for these keys.  I picked up a kit for my key
to my early D from DMC Houston at the Cleveland show in 2000 and still
have not got around to doing the fix yet.  Too many projects at once.

Not sure what the part number is off hand, but give them a call.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "dmcjohn" <john.dore_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Hi lads,
> My DeLorean (VIN 3810 - September 1981) has the 2 key system, and 
the 
> door key is the one you push the button in its center and a little 
> bulb lights up. Unfortunately I'm missing all the mechanisms that go 
> inside this key to make it work, everything from the bulb to the 
> button. Does anybody have these parts or know where I can get them? 
> All I have is a big chunky key with a hole in the middle!
> Thanks,
> John Dore, Boston.




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:19:30 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing

Scott and List,

Repairing, Refurbishing and Refinishing SS panels that have been
damaged, dented, burned or any combination, can run the range of
needing a skilled body and fender person, to a simple trip to the
hardware store and a good day's work of sweat and effort.  Each
case is different and may require a different approach.  This is
not a "book learned" process.  It needs to be seen, not just read.

If there is enough interest, I would not mind demonstrating some
of my techniques for refinishing SS as a tech session at one of
Ken K's shows and you are welcome to video tape the demo.  DMCH
did a similar tech session at last years open house meet and I'm
sure they will have something similar at next May's open house.
Keep in mind different techniques may be needed for each instance.

I know I will be looking to pick up some 'pointers' next May at the
DMCH open house.  Stephen and James, is there a date set yet?

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Rich, Why not give the details for your panel refurbishing 
techniques on the
> list.  Share your knowledge with the rest of us.
> 
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> DOA 5031
> 





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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:26:18 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

Joseph,
Do you have any auxiliary lights on your car?  Fog lights, 
aftermarket headlamps, etc, that are tied into your headlight 
circuit?  I did, and my switch melted also.  Then I figured out my 
foglights were the problem.  Other than that I'm not sure.  Maybe 
some wires are shorted out.  Good luck.
-chris-
VIN 10213


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Dear List,
> 
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch 
> melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to 
switch 
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on 
> position.  As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery 
> might wear down soon.  I had to disconnect the switch and upon 
closer 
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had 
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".  
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and 
I 
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion.  I didn't get 
> much use out of the switch.  I am wondering if there is an upgrade 
or 
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" 
switch.  
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Joseph
> vin 2850




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 09:53:12 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)

In a message dated 8/1/02 4:32:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net writes:

<< As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes from
 the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
   >>
Doesn't high ex temps indicate a lean condition?



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