From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1143
Date: Sunday, August 04, 2002 1:53 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Delorean wiring
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Brake proportioning valve
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Door Strut Test Results
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

5. Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

6. Re: THE engine
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Re: separate DMC tech list
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_ponchatoulahigh.com>

8. Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

9. Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

10. Re: Brake proportioning valve
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

11. Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

12. Re: THE engine
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

13. left fender
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

14. Re: Re: Tire pressures. Was: Goodyear tires
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

15. RE: Introducing the DeLorean Mailing List 2!!
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

16. Re: Re: Goodyear tires
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

17. My DMC Website has moved!
From: Grigor Maksudyan <delorean66_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Wont start when damp
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. New problem. dome light
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Lighst Master Switch (was: Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

21. Re: Re: Brake proportioning valve
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

22. Re: Wont start when damp
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Wont start when damp
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Pacific Rim and John Lane
From: Brent Beecher <brentbeecher_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 21:36:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Delorean wiring

Wasn't going to say anything, but thread Re: voltage (I think you all
mean amps) thru headlight switch prompts the following:

When I got my D first thing I did was study its wiring. Initially
thought was asinine (differs greatly from contemporary Detroit or
Kenosha). Now see some wisdom behind the design. Martin Gutkowski is
correct -- amperage thru headlight switch isn't enough to melt
anything (not counting the bulb). This applies for all other dash
controls as well. Makes sense to keep the amps behind the seat, does
it not?

FWIW: My headlight switch is squirrely too. Sometimes routes the
juice, sometimes does not. At one point had to drive w/ relay jumpered
(can you say "language barrier" -- since when does "main beam" mean
all 4!). I rigged up a concealed switch to pypass the dash control
when it wants to be cantakerous. Has behaved itself since. I think
it's intimidated.

Now, if I could only find a decent ground on a plastic car ...

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 22:20:51 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake proportioning valve

That's what I said in my previous (original) post....not arguing the 
idea. But he brought up drum brakes into the equation.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> In a message dated 8/2/02 10:11:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> dmcman73_at_dml_h... writes:
> 
> << > hydraulic fluid is self adjusting.  >>
> << We are talking about the Delorean right? It has four wheel disk 
> brakes....only adjustment that the brakes need are for the parking 
> brakes >>.
> 
> I think that by 'self adjusting' he means that given equal 
pressure at the 
> source, psi at all 4 calipers will be the same, provided no 
proportioning 
> valves are used. Since the Delorean has a twin piston master cyl, 
if the bore 
> and stroke of the master cyl is the same for both front and rear, 
the psi 
> delivered front and rear would be the same. Right?
> 
> If someone wants to check, switch you lines front to rear at the 
master cyl 
> and let me know if the rears lock up first ..:-)
> Jim 6147




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 22:25:25 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Test Results

why not post the results in the files section? Might make your life 
a little easier instead of having to keep sending out email 
attachments.

Just a suggestion,

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Door Strut Test Results
> 
> The "Open Invitational Door Strut Test" is complete.  Results are 
now 
> available to anyone interested.  Drop me an email at 
> twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g..., and I'll send you a .pdf file of 
> the report.
> 
> Thanks go to, in alphabetical order by company, Don Steger of De 
> Lorean Motor Center, Steven Winn of DMC Houston, Rob Grady of P. 
J. 
> Grady, and John Hervey of Special T Auto for submitting struts to 
> testing.  
> 
> The loaners struts will be returned shortly.  All vendors will 
> receive a hard copy of the report, with my compliments.
> 
> Special thanks goes to Bob Arredondo of New Hampshire Technical 
> Institute, who donated the resources of NHTI's Test and 
Measurement 
> Labratory.
> 
> Rick Gendreau




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 23:18:30 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., BondAtomic_at_dml_a... wrote:
> To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC heats up. 
> I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it up a bit, 
> and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to keep the car 
> cool.) and it was in operable temperatures. 
> My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First-the fan fail 
> light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does it mean 
> they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so the other 
> one shuts off? 
> Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a failsafe 
> device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech section from 
> DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two 
> radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So, is 
> Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower speeds, will 
> the heat stay down?
<SNIP>

The Fan Fix _at_dml_ SpecialTAuto, and Fanzilla from Zilla Products are both 
devices that are designed to help the electircal portion/function of the cooling 
fans. Niether are failsafe items to prevent overheating, nor will they increase a 
cooling capacity. Only a properly bled system, and/or a larger radiator will 
accomplish that.

The bleeder kit that DMC Joe sells is invaluable. Certain engines such as the 
DeLorean require you to purge the system of air bubbles which will cause 
"vapor lock". Quick answer: Assuming that your cooling system is functioning 
properly (which it sounds like it is), you've probably just got too much coolant 
inside. When things get hot, they will expand, and water is no exception. So 
the water probably just got a little hotter than normal (although still within a 
safe operating range). Since the water got hot, it expanded. The radiator cap 
functioned properly, and it let off the excess pressure so the cooling system 
wouldn't be damaged. And it did this until the water stopped expanding. I too 
have had this problem as well a couple of weeks ago. And just like you, it 
didn't happen untill I stopped the car. As long as the car stays within normal 
operating temps, everything should be fine. But in your case, it's hard to 
determine if you had the cooling system over filled, or if it was simply air 
bubbles. I would reccomend to first get rid of the blue relay, and replace it with 
a crimped connector, and install the Self-Bleeder kit by DMC Joe. These are 
both inexpensive repairs, and ones that are beyond important for your car.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 23:27:24 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> In a message dated 8/1/02 4:32:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> delorean_at_dml_d... writes:
> 
> << As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes from
>  the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
>    >>
> Doesn't high ex temps indicate a lean condition?

Lean mixtures do run hotter, yes. But a catalytic converter that is glowing hot 
is a sign of an over rich condition. Breaking down hydrocarbons also creates 
a by-product of heat. That heat can travel up the pipes, and can even be 
carried away by the gasses passing thru the cat. This can also cause the 
muffler to glow too in the center.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 19:39:38 -0700
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: THE engine

John and all,
About our Back to the Future car. . .
Original engine 5-speed.  Close to 100,000 miles and purrs like a tough kitty.
How rumors can get started. . .? !  :-)
Oliver Holler
http://www.time-car.com


Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 23:47:11 EDT
   From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: THE engine

Don't forget about the Porsche ZF 6-speed. I heard from someone that the Back
to the Future DeLorean at Ken's Show has one? Is that true? Oh man it would
be a nice addition to the Northstar.

Oh man.
John
4275






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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 18:50:49 -0500
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc_at_dml_ponchatoulahigh.com>
Subject: Re: Re: separate DMC tech list

I am a strong believer in the delete button.  The DML is fine the way it is.
If you see something you don't want to read just click delete.

I for one, dont feed like having to subscribe to 5 or 6 different lists just
to get the content i get now.


----- Original Message -----
From: <deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 11:46 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: separate DMC tech list


> In a message dated 7/29/02 10:25:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com writes:
>
> > The (DML) Tech list really needs a moderator....   Maybe splitting the
DML
> > in to sub lists would be a positive thing considering the current size?
I
> > think so, as long as they remain moderated (except for maybe a "general
> > discussion" group).
> >
> >
>
> I'd love to see that happen.  Personally, I'm 98% interested in Tech
issues.
> Most events mentioned are not ones I can attend.  Many peripheral, JZD or
> collectible questions are of limited interest. I won't call these crap...
> they have their place, but they make it harder to search the back issues
for
> specific topics.  I started the DMCTech Yahoo group for that reason, not
> visualizing it as an alternative, but rather as a "Cliff Notes" cousin to
the
> DML.  Between copyright conflicts, (which made it impossible to share DML
> data and edit it) and concerns I'd weaken the DML, and a few people who
were
> afraid I'd somehow get rich off publishing it in hardcopy, the thing never
> got off the ground.  I'd still like to use it to mount an interactive or
> rather cooperative effort to redo the DeLorean Manual series.  After two
> years of searching, I've got original copies of everything, for the best
> possible repro use.  But the last 14 months I've been head over heels at
work
> with little time to spare. I haven't closed the site because, heck, I'd
still
> like to see it up and running.  My apologies to those who've subscribed,
> found nothing happening there, and then unsubscribed a day later.  And my
> DeLorean Club hat is off to the DML moderators for their unpaid hard work.
> Unmoderated lists are intolerable junk piles.  Anybody who wants to start
one
> is welcome to it.  You won't find me there. Heck, I don't even have time
to
> read more than a few posts a day as it is.
> Long live the DML!  And double your money back if you're not satisfied!
;-)
>
> Wayne A. Ernst
> vin 11174
> Inactive moderator, DMCTech
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:47:17 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

no the brights weren't on.  If you look in the archives under electronics,
you will see another member's photos and he had the same problem.

Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 5:24 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also


> I remember when I had my Jeep the headlight switch on that melted.
> It was due to poor contacts and me having the brights on for a long
> time. The brights I guess draw more power...did you have your
> brights on? Just a guess.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> > melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to
> > switch off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
> > position.

[long quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:49:44 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

your ordeal sounds crazy.  I had to take everything apart or the battery
would run down.  Is there a lube I can put on the new switch that can be
better?

Vin 2850
Joseph
----- Original Message -----
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:20 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also


> I've had the same thing happen, apparently somewhat common. But not
> to a "new" switch, just to an old one. I'll bet the operative phrase
> here will be "no returns on electrical parts". You'll probably have
> to buy another one.
>
> You were lucky, when it happened to mine it the lights would only
> stay on if I held the switch in with my finger. Interesting drive
> home in the dark, with a manual transmission car.
>
> Dave Swingle
>

[moderator snip]



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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:52:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Brake proportioning valve

On Thu, 1 Aug 2002, content22207 wrote:

> I'm afraid Josh is correct on a car w/ rear drums. Without the
> proportioning valve, braking is rather squirrely (trust me -- I've

Brake proportioning valves, or some sort of engineering intended to
control the balance of braking force, are necessary on all cars intended
to have high performance braking.  The proportioning valve might not have
been necessary on the DeLorean because of the rear weight bias, but I
guarantee they did not just ignore it.

There are many forces at work with braking, weight transfer foremost among
them.  All cars transfer weight to the front wheels under hard braking,
which is visible by the nose of the car dipping down.  Just how much
weight is transferred depends on the weight distribution of the car and
the amount of braking force (and has nothing to do with the suspension).

Because of this, the front wheels require more braking force than the rear
wheels.  If there is (hypothetically) 2000 pounds of weight on the front
axle and 1000 on the rear, the front brakes need twice as much braking
force as the rears.  On the DMC, under hard braking, the weight probably
ends up about 50/50 front to rear.  Keep in mind that with modern high
performance tires and brake pads, with no other upgrades, the DeLorean
should be able to decelerate with nearly 1G of braking force.  In terms of
weight transfer, this is equivalent to parking on a 45 degree incline!  
It will transfer a lot of weight to the front wheels.

On top of this, it is extremely bad to have the rear wheels lock before
the front wheels.  If the rear wheels lock first the car will most likely
spin.  If the car should happen to have a rear weight bias, it would be
guaranteed.

> tried it). On 4 wheel disc however does not seem to be necessary (I've
> done that too, but it *IS* a 5,000 pound Lincoln). Guess it's because
> hydraulic fluid is self adjusting.

The Lincoln probably has almost as much of a front weight bias as the
DeLorean has a rear weight bias.  In the case of the Lincoln, much more
work is done by the front brakes.  At least, in the original design :}

Have you ever had to make a maximum effort panic stop?  If you have
4-wheel ABS, then bypassing the proportioning valve just makes more work
for the ABS system and more pedal pressure for the same amount of braking
(under maximum braking conditions - under normal ones, it wouldn't affect
pedal pressure).  If you don't have 4 wheel ABS, and you ever have to
really brake hard, you might get an unpleasant surprise.




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:55:21 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also

no aftermarket items and I am almost sure the wiring is correct.  nothing
has changed in the 2 years I have owned it.  What should be the reading for
this switch (amp and such)?  Does anyone know?

Thanks, you all have been a great help and source of info and support.

Joseph
vin 2850

----- Original Message -----
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also


> Joseph,
> Do you have any auxiliary lights on your car?  Fog lights,
> aftermarket headlamps, etc, that are tied into your headlight
> circuit?  I did, and my switch melted also.  Then I figured out my
> foglights were the problem.  Other than that I'm not sure.  Maybe
> some wires are shorted out.  Good luck.
> -chris-
> VIN 10213
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> > melting.  Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to
> > switch off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
> > position.

[moderator snip]



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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 00:44:27 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: THE engine

Sorry to use the list for this. But niether of your e-mail addresses work. So for a 
quickie solution, try searching the archives for Hot Start Problems.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 20:39:33 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: left fender

could someone tell me why there is a large supply of right front fenders, right and left
rear quarter panels and why the supply of left front fenders has been gone for a long
time now?

i know there is one dealer that still has a small supply of NEW left front fenders but i
would like to know why these are so rare and the other body panels are so plentiful.

thanks
mark




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 19:47:28 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Re: Tire pressures. Was: Goodyear tires

Yup. 40/40 will give good results for high speed performance driving on dry
pavement. Although I think that it will have some understeer with the
fronts as high as the rears. But the trade-off is bad wear characteristics,
bad wet weather handling, and a lousy ride compared to having the tires at
the correct pressures.

I have run 36F and 42R on my DeLorean for autocrossing purposes, to reduce
tire roll to a minimum when doing very high-G cornering. But if you leave
it at that pressure it will slide a lot on wet pavement and wear much more
in the center of the tread rather than evenly across all the tread.

While the glove box sticker may only give one set of pressures, DMC did
specify a range for different types of driving. The owner's manual lists it
as 23F/30R for normal driving and 29F/34R for continuous high speed
driving. I typically run 25/32 on my car as a sort of compromise.

Just ignore the tire pressures listed on the side of the tire unless you
are hauling heavy loads and need to increase your carrying capacity on a
truck or SUV.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 02:57 PM 8/2/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Well right now my Eagle GT II tires are at 
>40/40 the tires say 44 max psi.
>Are they up to high?
>
>Mark T
>
>#1366




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 22:17:07 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Introducing the DeLorean Mailing List 2!!

>If there is an ORGANIZED method of subdividing the lists by subject,
>I am all for it..
On one hand: here! here!
There are some wonderful free and cheapware bulletin board products that
could run on the dmcnews.com site that would allow easy grouping of separate
topics.
The question, though, would be would everyone want to maintain the inbox
delivery/reply functionality? That is much more difficult, but again, not
impossible. It just depends on the dmcnews.com hosting. If you have your own
box anything is doable; if you are renting space then that's a big
difference.
On the other hand: hmmm.....
there is the overhead-- I don't know but I imagine the overhead effort would
be quite a bit more than what the moderators go through now-- and that's not
counting the development and system administrative efforts.
I wouldn't mind using my skills for some of this effort-- but it would get
old and very tiresome. I love that kind of work but I already have a job and
I do like to get out and drive the car once in a while. :-)
It would really need to be a funded effort, and I don't see a subscription
service being profitable or large in numbers.

But then again... to get rid of the ads....
-Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc A. Levy [mailto:malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com]
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 9:28 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Introducing the DeLorean Mailing List 2!!


> Other new lists have sprung up in the past week or so..  Do we really need
> ANOTHER?!
>
> Too all of you who are "breaking away" to start your own list, I think your
> doing a disservice to DeLorean community.  Although I have subscribed to
> some of the new alternate lists, I find myself very quick with the Delete
> key.  I'm willing to bet that I am missing good information in many cases,
> but some of us don't have a full day to dedicate to reading a dozen or so
> lists with 40-50 messages a day on each list!
>
> In addition, I already see people posting the same message to multiple
> lists.  Although the DML moderators seem to have rejected some of those
> posts.
>
> If there is an ORGANIZED method of subdividing the lists by subject, I am
> all for it..  I have always considered starting a list for engine swaps, but
> realized that we are free to discuss topics like this on the main DML so why
> bother.
>
> You say the "DML2" is really just for rejected messages, then how about
> calling it "DML-Rejects"?  Make it clear to a newbie searching for a
> DeLorean list to know which list(s) to join and why..  I'd hate to have a
> newcomer JUST join DML2 and think that is all we have to offer.
>

>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Robert Greenhaw [mailto:deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 1:18 AM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] Introducing the DeLorean Mailing List 2!!
>>
>>
>> Hi Folks,
>>
>> Due to all the recent ramblings about having a new list to post the
>> "rejects" and just having a different DML in general, I have decided
>> to start a brand new list....The DeLorean Mailing List 2!!
>>



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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 01:12:51 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Goodyear tires

> Well right now my Eagle GT II tires are at  40/40 the tires say 44 max
> psi.  Are they up to high?

Yes, and here's what I was taught about tire pressure and how it relates
more to car and it's load than the whatever is printed on the tire.  (This
analysis might be flawed, but it we argued this point at work for weeks, and
finally came to a consensus with the help of a couple of physics majors - if
it is way off base, kindly correct.).

Assume the curb weight of the Delorean is 2,712 pounds, with a 35/65
front/rear distribution (From the Delorean FAQ).  That means that each front
tire supports approximately 475 pounds and each rear tire supports 882
pounds.  Under the Delorean recommendations, the front tires should be 23
PSI.  If you divide 475 lbs by 23 PSI, you will get a tire contact patch of
20.65 square inches.  For the rears, you will get a contact patch of 29.4
square inches. (If your tires are properly inflated, and you accurately
measure the area of your contact patches, you will come very close to these
numbers - trust me - we did this and it worked out.)

Now assume you inflate your tires to 40/40PSI.  That means the contact patch
for the fronts becomes 11.87 square inches, or a 42.5% decrease in the
amount of rubber hitting the road.  The numbers for the rear are 22in^2 and
a 25% decrease in rubber contact.  Do you really want to be driving on tires
inflate so much you lose a significant amount of traction, stability and
control?

On the flip side, if your tires are under inflated, the contact patch
becomes much bigger, and causes uneven wear on the tire as well as excessive
heat and poorer handling, among other things, I'm sure.

-Hank Eskin #1619




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 00:44:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Grigor Maksudyan <delorean66_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: My DMC Website has moved!

Just wanted to say that my website has been updated and also moved to the new address: http://www.deloreans.cjb.net/ 

The site is designed in 1024x768 resolution, so for all those who use 800x600 the site will not display correctly in various places, that is, until I have time to correct it.

It is on Angelfire, so when you get the pop-up ad, just minimize the pop-up window instead of closing it, so it won't come up every time you change the page.

Also, if your website is not listed in my Links section, e-mail me and I will be glad to post it up. Bring 'em on!! :-)

Thanks a lot guys -- Hope you like the site.

Grigor - Greg's DeLorean Site
http://www.deloreans.cjb.net/

P.S. Make sure you sign the guestbook!!!!!



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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 12:26:31 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Wont start when damp

Hi All

Annoying problem with my car: When the weather's damp, it just refuses
to start - pops a couple of times on maybe two cylinders but otherwise
just cranks. The most recent occasion it'd been under a cover and the
engine was dry - it was just a typical gloomy damp cold english morning.
We put a hairdryer on the distributor for 30 seconds and it fired up
first time!!!!

What on the dizzy should I check? It can't be much different from any
other DeLorean. The cap and rotor looked like this when she was worked
on last october

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02232.jpg

Martin
#1458




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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 08:23:40 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: New problem. dome light

Last night I finally got a chance to drive my D a total of 6 miles
last time I drove it was in Memphis.
Anyway the dome lights did not work.
Ok not a big problem try turning on the switch I thought.
Well when I did the door open light on the dash came on and off as I flicked 
the switch.

Now I haven't gone out and looked and it may be that someone unhooked me in 
Memphis and it did not get back on right but it worked fine for the last 8 
years so that one took me by surprise.

Any ideas.

The back light just plain old doesnt do anything its the front one that turns 
on the door adjar light.

More challenges ahead LOL

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 14:42:46 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Lighst Master Switch (was: Re: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also)

On 03-08-2002, Martin Gutowski wrote:

> The DeLorean's switch powers a pair of relays (low and high),
> so this would not apply. Each relay _should_ draw a fraction
> of an amp (300mA? I forget) - suggest replacing the relays before
> trying a new new switch  :-)

I'm sorry, but you're wrong here; the positionlights in front,
taillights and the side marker lights and dashlights are all powered
straight through the switch. Total power consuption should be about
40 Watt, so draw somewhere around 3,5 Amp.
Not THAT much, but enough to melt something if the resistance is
"right" and that is what happens on our cars. When I had this I made
soem modifications to my wiring to have my new LMS only power up
several relays. This mod can be found on DMCnews.com in the Tech Library.
While I was in there I also mad a mod to make the headlamps go off
when you switch off the ignition, like on most modern cars.

Again, have a look at:
<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html>

Good luck,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 14:55:15 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Brake proportioning valve

On 03-08-2002, Jim wrote:

> I think that by 'self adjusting' he means that given equal pressure
> at the source, psi at all 4 calipers will be the same, provided no
> proportioning valves are used. Since the Delorean has a twin piston
> master cyl, if the bore and stroke of the master cyl is the same for
> both front and rear, the psi delivered front and rear would be the same.

When I had my last annual inspection (called an APK over here), they told
me they had to do actual running brake tests, instead of only on a roller
bench because of the 50/50 propostioning of the car. According to them
this was important of all the weight being in the back. On "normal" cars
there's a proportioning biased toward the rear of the car to make sure
that they lock up first, no matter whether you have ABS-brakes or not...
On a DeLorean the rear wheels are bigger, wider and loaded more, so with
50/50 proportioning the automatically should brake harder that the fronts.
The testrun was to insure that my car did not lock up in front first.
I know that in Belgium (our southern neigbours) a brake pressure limiter
is mandatory on the fronts to get around this, so far for "One Europe"...

I have no reason not to believe my shop, so I believe this information
to be correct. If you put other calipers (and disks) on the front that
brake harder the risk of locking up on fronts first increases dramatically.

BTW, my car brakes fine on the standard disks, calipers and pads...

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:21:56 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Wont start when damp

Martin, Check this when your going to crank and know it won't start right 
off. Jump 87 & 30 on the rpm relay connector and then see if it will start 
right up. There could also be a connection loose on the side of the 
distributor for the pulse coil. Also check the pulse coil cold or hot appx. 
600 ohms. Last thing I would look for would be a cracked cap. 
Let me know 
John hervey

<< Annoying problem with my car: When the weather's damp, it just refuses
 to start - pops a couple of times on maybe two cylinders but otherwise
 just cranks. The most recent occasion it'd been under a cover and the
 engine was dry - it was just a typical gloomy damp cold english morning.
 We put a hairdryer on the distributor for 30 seconds and it fired up
 first time!!!!
 
 What on the dizzy should I check? It can't be much different from any
 other DeLorean. The cap and rotor looked like this when she was worked
 on last october
  >>



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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 16:25:15 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wont start when damp

How old are the spark plug wires? Uusally if the wires insulation 
breaks down (age, sheild cracks, ect) they will ark to ground (spark 
goes into ground instead of going to the plugs) when damp. If there 
is a minor hairline crack in the distributor that could also cause a 
arc to ground. To test your wires a simple way would be to start up 
your car, get a water spray bottle filled with regular tap water, 
spray a fine mist onto the wires and see if the engine dies. If it 
does chances are you have bad wires/boots. If you spray a mist over 
the cap and it dies then you may have a bad cap. It's not 100% 
accurate but it is helpfull.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> Annoying problem with my car: When the weather's damp, it just 
refuses
> to start - pops a couple of times on maybe two cylinders but 
otherwise
> just cranks. The most recent occasion it'd been under a cover and 
the
> engine was dry - it was just a typical gloomy damp cold english 
morning.
> We put a hairdryer on the distributor for 30 seconds and it fired 
up
> first time!!!!
> 
> What on the dizzy should I check? It can't be much different from 
any
> other DeLorean. The cap and rotor looked like this when she was 
worked
> on last october
> 
> http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02232.jpg
> 
> Martin
> #1458




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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 10:28:19 -0700
From: Brent Beecher <brentbeecher_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Pacific Rim and John Lane

I had John Lane do some work on my Delorean about two years ago, which 
was not engine related.  I do not doubt that he is quite good at working 
with the PRV, and that he can get a lot of power out of them at a 
price.  Nevertheless, he does not seem to know much about the REST of 
the car.  I had a problem with fuel covering the ground every time I 
filled up.  As it turns out, the clamp holding the fuel pump boot had 
loosened up, and the boot was just sitting on top of the tank.  I know a 
lot more about this now than I did then.  Lane charged me over $300 to 
"reseat" the boot and fix what he termed the "hack job" done by some 
former mechanic (the "former mechanic" was Dana Haglin of Boulder, CO, 
one of the most competent Delorean mechanics I've had the pleasure to 
employ) on the wiring to the pump.  He found that the wires exited 
between the boot and the rubber cover, and apparently didn't notice that 
there were two GROVES there that they were meant to fit into.  He undid 
the wiring, and ran them out of the cover through the hole that the fuel 
return line goes through - ie, pressed right up against the hose.  The 
cover was also badly aligned, which caused the fuel lines to put 
considerable pressure on the cover.  When I got to back to Colorado a 
few days later, it was spewing fuel again (the clamp was still loose, I 
have since tightened it and never had the problem again), but this time 
the cover was ripped through because of the hoses.  For that $300, I 
would prefer to have had a brand new binnacle without a crack.

After all of these "John Lane is a magician" posts, I just wanted to 
share my experience.  For more power, he suggested that I spend over 
$7000 to make the engine even-firing.  Total projected benefit: maybe 20 
horses.  Geez...  I guess it must have been the point of departure on a 
VERY expensive HP project.

For anything I can't handle myself (the list is shrinking!), my car gets 
its servicing at FAME by Brad Bean in Redmond.  Brad seems to be very 
knowledgeable about the Delorean qua Delorean, not just the PRV...


Brent Beecher
00893
(To PNDC: sorry guys, just lazy.  I'll re-up this weekend...  Great 
club...)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 11:02:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat

The last time my car overheated was in 1991 (over
100,000 miles ago).  Since then I have sat in stop and
go traffic in 100 temp for as long as an hour with no
problems.  And, keep in mind that I have twin turbos
which produce a lot of extra heat. 

The means to stop worrrying about overheating exist
and work.  I have P.J. Grady's triple core brass
radiator, a self-bleeder and Fanzilla.  

If you drive your car, as I do, and don't have these
(or similar) items on your car, start to make your
Christmas list.  All together they do add up to a
pretty penny, but personally I wouldn't drive without
them.

Live the dream - drive your D.

Dick Ryan

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