From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1147
Date: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 10:33 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: D in another Magazine!
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Defrost Switch internals please....
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Re: left fender - another version
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

4. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: replacement air duct (was: Question about steel bottle)
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>

7. Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>

9. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>

10. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

12. DOC- UK site update
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: what some people will do......!!
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Trans fluid.
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. courtesy light problem solved/Masters Tennis Tournament
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Re: Question about steel bottle
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

21. Re: Trans fluid.
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

23. Re: Trans fluid.
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

24. RE: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

25. Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:06:20 EDT
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: D in another Magazine!

In a message dated 8/5/02 9:53:53 PM Central Daylight Time, Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com 
writes:


> <SNIP> Pick up a copy of Source magazine. </SNIP>
> 
> I found their website with the picture. 
> http://www.source.ie/is31edit.html
> 
> 
> 

    I don't remember exactly who's car this is, but the picture was taken at 
the exhibition hall in Belfast at last years Delorean Concours event in 
Ireland. 

    Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:06:03 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Defrost Switch internals please....

Kevin, If you can't get it back together, Send it to me and I will reassemble 
it. As for all the other people on the list, I advise not to take it apart or 
even take the cap off. It's tricky to put back together, but that's why I get 
the big bucks to clean and adjust it and the window switches. Kevin, I can 
supply a picture,but most of the time with out the tools, you can't put it 
back together.  
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/


<< I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re installing my
 center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
 jumbled up and are now loose.
  
 Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram of the inside of
 the switch so that I can fix mine?
  
 Here is a picture of what I have in front of me to work with.please help
 if you can!
 http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
  
  
 Thanks!!
  
 Kevin Abato
   >>



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:08:04 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: left fender - another version


I was talking with a good-friend's-sister's-husband who is in the A/C
business, and knows next-to-nothing about the Delorean.  When I mentioned
there were only a few parts that are no longer available, his first and
immediate comment was "let me guess - the left front fender".     I asked
how he knew that.. and he explained that it's the same for many (most?)
older/collectible cars - the left front fenders are the most likely damaged
in an accident (moreso than the right FF), and therefore there are less
available due to natural replacement demand.  I have no way of verifying if
this is true or not, but certainly sounds feasible.

-Hank




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:23:37 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod

Martin, The reason they cycle the most is temperature. If you don't move 
enough warm air over the evaporator core in the car the low pressure switch 
will protect the system by shutting the compressor off. Here in Texas with 
90+ degree weather we or should I say I  don't have the problem. Also, Don't 
run it on maximum, and add a little outside air with the blower motor and run 
the car on Normal. Normally that will slow it down as long as it isn't low on 
freon.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

<< My AC is a bit low on R12 and I didn't like how hard it was hammering
 the fan relay. I remembered seeing this article and realising that my
 Xantia runs its fans continuously when the AC is on, I wondered why the
 DeLorean's cycles continuously? Anyone?
  >>



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 03:26:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....

John Hervey (Special T Auto) will clean & reassemble for $15.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re installing my
> center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
> jumbled up and are now loose.
>  
> Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram of the inside of
> the switch so that I can fix mine?
>  
> Here is a picture of what I have in front of me to work with.please help
> if you can!
> http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
>  
>  
> Thanks!!
>  
> Kevin Abato
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:17:29 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>
Subject: Re: replacement air duct (was: Question about steel bottle)

> Do you have to remove the metal "air tube"
> If so, what do you replace it with?

I replaced my original with a black one from AutoZone (simply because I
couldn't keep the metal looking as nice as I wanted and it rubbed on my
engine cover a bit).

I can't remember the brand name of the replacement air duct, but it was
packaged in a yellow rectangular box that looked deceptively short (the
thing expands once you get it out and bend it to the shape you need).  Just
remove your old one and take it into AutoZone with you to match the size.

_________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 05:22:06 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES

Just replaced the radiator on my Delorean (actually the entire 
cooling system in the front, radiator, and hoses)...

Anyhow... while it was sitting in my drive way, it hit the 220 mark, 
and the fan didn't come on... it then kept heating up.... so I turned 
the engine off...

I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the 
front fans on, and it didn't....

Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when 
the air was on, the fans came on....

Then again today... same thing, they didn't function on either...

Is this a common problem, and if so, what do I do to fix it?

I would have thought it was a temp sensor.... but beings it doesn't 
kick on with the AC I assume it's a relay or something?

Any help appreciated.... thanks.

Mike





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 05:49:25 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle

couldn't this have easily been the cap not holding pressure as 
well? Especially since the bottle had no visable leak though 
since you only tested the bottle under the tap maybe it was.

Justr wanted to remind everyone to check the caps as well. Had 
a cap fail on my 20 year old Mercedes this morning. A cheap part 
to keep in the car or just replace as well especially at this age.

Jeremy



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Yep, it happened to me. I was on the highway at night and 
steam started
> pouring out of the back of my car. It actually reminded me of the 
steam
> that shot out of the BTTF car, but I digress. I had the car towed 
home,
> took the header bottle out, and couldn't find a crack. I took it 
inside
> and poured water in it, and it held water fine (remember 
though, it wasn't
> under pressure). Since it looked like hell, I decided to put a 
stainless
> bottle in. Swapping the bottles did the trick and now the coolent 
system
> holds pressure.
> 
> Just one of my misadventures.
> 
> -Christian




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 05:55:59 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle

this raises the question if you dont install the self-bleeder AND 
replace with the steel bottle AND the coolient boils what other 
problems are you opening up. Since the plastic bottle would 
break under these circumstances and the steel wont might this 
open up more expensive reapirs elsewhere in the system? 
Could this be a reason that cars in the $100,000 range still use 
plastic bottles as a means of protecting more sensitive 
components?

Jeremy



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Both Stephen Strelczak and Chris Parnham have 
independently had theirs explode as a
> result of the fans not kicking in, and not having self-bleeder 
kits. I'm guessing the
> coolant boils in the lines creating a bubble in the water pump, 
stopping it working.
> here
> > somewhere)




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 09:27:23 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....

Hi Kevin

You won't get it back together without separating the base bit from the 
casing. It'll probably come more apart before you can reassemble it! 
Okay, quick explanation which will make more sense when you have it 
fully apart: That little bar goes underneath the two hooks on the right 
of your picture. The little plate sits kind of diagonally in the centre 
of the switch - in its current state you won't be able to get it back 
in. I did exactly what you did and it took me about two hours with a 
pair of needle-nosed pliers and a strong light to work it out! (I had 
the TV on at the time :-)

This is a prime example of someone saying "well it works, so let's make 
it", instad of making sure it was properly designed.

Martin
#1458

Kevin Abato wrote:

>I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re installing my
>center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
>jumbled up and are now loose.
>
>
>http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
> 
>





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 08:54:20 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....

--- Kevin Abato wrote:
> I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while
> re installing my center console, and some of the internal
> "guts" of the switch got jumbled up and are now loose.
>  
> Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram
> of the inside of the switch so that I can fix mine?

Don't know if it's any good, but there's one in the Files-section:
<groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/DefrosterSwitch.pdf>

Hope this helps,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:36:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: DOC- UK site update

Hi All

Apologies it's taken so long. When you see the volume of photos I had to 
deal with, you'll know why (new camera with 64Mb card!). There are more 
than 130 new photos on the site including my colleciton from Memphis, 
plus our own "Supercar weekend". Five new additions to Club Cars, and 
the fourth page on the resurrection of 1458 and 2727 is finally wrapped 
up as #2727 finally leaves the Diesel Centre under its own steam. I've 
also added an FAQ (mainly aimed at us UK owners and the questions we get).

Follow the "news" link as usual

www.delorean.co.uk

Martin
#1458
DOC UK Webmaster





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:04:54 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: what some people will do......!!

That car looks great.  Just wanted to tell you.  Anything else you 
have planned or is it 100% finished?  Keep up the good work.
-chris-
VIN 10213


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I just felt you had to see this, over the weekend I have replaced 
the fans,
> fan cowl and radiator on my car. Previous to this the car did not 
have a fan
> cowl but some wacky welding  of metal strips and two odd fans. I've 
added
> the shots to the end of my site.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Paul & Mel
> #6463
> 
> www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:08:45 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Trans fluid.

Okay, it seems as if my car is leaking somewhere.  I don't think it 
is the oil, not the coolant, and I think it is the trans fluid.  My 
problem is this... (please don't laugh)... I don't know where to fill 
it up.  The leak is nothing major, but over the years I think enough 
has dripped out to be effecting my shifting... so it needs to be 
topped off or changed.  Can anyone tell me the exact location for the 
fill cap, filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for the 
transmission fluid?  Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.
-chris-
VIN 10213




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:55:05 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: courtesy light problem solved/Masters Tennis Tournament

About a week ago I posted about the courtesy light problem I was having but 
failed to mention the circumstances.  In Memphis all of my lights worked 
(door lights and the dome lights front and back)  When I went to get my car 
after the dinner Saturday night I flipped the kill switch and had no door 
lights.  Oh well I blew a fuse I thought.  
I tried the dome lights and they worked.  Well nix the fuse theory.

Last week the dome lights went out but I still felt I had a door light 
problem even if it was just a fuse so I posted.

Matt responded just change the fuse.  Well the fuse was toast and I did 
replace it but still no door lights.

I have no need to disconnect the door lights since I have a kill switch but 
something told me to do it anyway.

Sure enough someone at Graceland must have disocnnected my lights to save the 
battery.  I never drove my car that morning.  Others pulled it in and parked 
it and opened it up so at least someone was trying to keep me from having 
starting problems.  The person that parked my car would never have known I 
had a kill switch  and some quick thinking DeLorean owner saw my lights on 
and decided to save my battery. 

So here's a thanks to whomever disconnected it.  The investigation into the 
problem was interesting.  I even reconnected my buzzer.  That may get undone 
again.  

I have been attending the Masters Series Tennis Tournament in Cincinnati this 
week.  Even made it on TV last week for the Seniors.

My DeLorean has been my means of transportation to and from the show so I 
have driven my car everyday for about a week now and each time I drive into 
the place the car gets a lot of looks and fingers being pointed at it.

While there are tons of Mercedes (They Sponsor the event) the DeLorean gets a 
lot of people swarming to it especially when the doors open.

One girl in the parking lot wouldn't let us go the one night she just looked 
the car over and over. (who said its not a Chick magnet) tons of guys also 
and lots of BTTF humor.  Anyway we are enjoying the car as much as the 
tournament.

Just passed 6,500 miles

Ken




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:03:08 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod

Hi John

Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but 
allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a 
plug'n'play solution :-) Does anyone know why there's that bizarre 
"removable link" in the orange/pink feed to the evaporator - you can see 
it in the passenger footwell. You pull the feed from this and use it 
(via the diode) to run the fan relay. This places the "drive" for the 
fans up-stream of the low pressure switch.

Martin
#1458

dherv10_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Martin, The reason they cycle the most is temperature. If you don't move 
>enough warm air over the evaporator core in the car the low pressure switch 
>will protect the system by shutting the compressor off. 
>





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:12:28 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES

Hi Mike

Go to the relay compartment. On the lower left hand side (front right in 
the car's perspective) there's a blue socket. This should have 2 or 
three wires in it instead of a relay. If you have the blue fan fail 
module, this is most likely the culprit. Otherwise it may well be the 
relay next to it, which drives the fans and is not really strong enough 
to be reliable (esp after 20 years!). Both of these are fixed by the 
FanZilla and/or John Hervey's FanFix. (or a bit of creative re-wiring 
and a hoffing big relay etc etc.)

Actually it's worth pointing anyone to the article by Darryl Tinnerstet 
in the first edition of the 'Zine here

ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/zine001.pdf

Apart from being a very good tech article on re-wiring the fans to have 
individual relays, it includes a very useful layout diagram of all the 
relays. I refer to it regularly.

Martin
#1458

iqmpike wrote:

>I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the 
>front fans on, and it didn't....
>
>Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when 
>the air was on, the fans came on....
>
<snip>





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:14:58 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about steel bottle

I'd just keep an eye on my fans and make sure they work :-) I use the 
fan-fail light to tell me they're running, and my temp guage works too.

Martin
#1458

jeremys_im wrote:

>this raises the question if you dont install the self-bleeder AND 
>replace with the steel bottle AND the coolient boils what other 
>problems are you opening up. Since the plastic bottle would 
>break under these circumstances and the steel wont might this 
>open up more expensive reapirs elsewhere in the system? 
>Could this be a reason that cars in the $100,000 range still use 
>plastic bottles as a means of protecting more sensitive 
>components?
>
>Jeremy
>





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:28:24 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost switch internals please....

Call up Rob Grady at PJ Grady and ask him to fax/mail you a copy of 
the directions to re-assemble it. I did just the same as you..I 
opened it and "pop" everything was on the floor. I got the 
directions from Rob and was able to put everything back together 
again in a few minutes.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I accidentally opened up my rear defroster switch while re 
installing my
> center console, and some of the internal "guts" of the switch got
> jumbled up and are now loose.
>  
> Can anyone provide a GOOD digital picture or diagram of the inside 
of
> the switch so that I can fix mine?
>  
> Here is a picture of what I have in front of me to work 
with.please help
> if you can!
> http://www.abato.net/defswitch.jpg
>  
>  
> Thanks!!
>  
> Kevin Abato
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:54:04 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle

Coolant bottles are not designed to break. If excess pressure builds 
in the cooling system for whatever reason (overheating or lack of 
expansion), it is the job of the radiator cap to relieve the 
pressure. Cooling system test kits will not only test the cooling 
system on a car to insure that there are no leaks, but will also test 
radiator caps to insure that they will open _at_dml_ the appropriate 
pressure.

Why don't $100K cars use plastic bottles? I don't know, because I 
don't own one (although my D certainly looks it ;) ). If I were to 
guess, I'd say because those kind of cars are not in the same class 
as DeLoreans are. Not to say that one is either better or worse. But 
expensive collector cars in this range are usually not driven quite 
as often as DeLoreans, if at all. Hence concern for originality of 
the vehicle is placed ahead of function. There is more that could 
probably be said, but anything else would simply be speculation on my 
part.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> this raises the question if you dont install the self-bleeder AND 
> replace with the steel bottle AND the coolient boils what other 
> problems are you opening up. Since the plastic bottle would 
> break under these circumstances and the steel wont might this 
> open up more expensive reapirs elsewhere in the system? 
> Could this be a reason that cars in the $100,000 range still use 
> plastic bottles as a means of protecting more sensitive 
> components?
> 
> Jeremy




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:56:14 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.

Hi,
Assuming you have a 5 speed tranny, the filler screw is on the 
passenger side of the tranny.  The drain plug is on the bottom of the 
tranny.  

Erik



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Okay, it seems as if my car is leaking somewhere.  I don't think it 
> is the oil, not the coolant, and I think it is the trans fluid.  My 
> problem is this... (please don't laugh)... I don't know where to 
fill 
> it up.  The leak is nothing major, but over the years I think 
enough 
> has dripped out to be effecting my shifting... so it needs to be 
> topped off or changed.  Can anyone tell me the exact location for 
the 
> fill cap, filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for 
the 
> transmission fluid?  Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.
> -chris-
> VIN 10213




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:30:47 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??

Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high performance. I am curious as to if any of you know what kind of Horsepower and torque the tranny will take, I once heard 275. I am not the pop the clutch at 5,000rpm kind of guy and am very smooth driver so is 300 too much what about 350, and 400? Also, I know I can get a centerforce clutch, what kind of power will that take before it starts to slip? Are there any other clutches you know of. And one last thing, will the chassis be able to cope with this. Thanks in advance.

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 15:41:29 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.

---  "dursman" wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the exact location for the fill cap,
> filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for the 
> transmission fluid?  Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.

Do you have an auto or manual box?
Makes a lot of difference...
If memory serves me right, an auto has an extra dipstick for
the ATF somewhere near the front fire wall in the engine 
compartment and has a separate final drive, while the 
manual has the final drive and gears combined...

Hope this helps,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------





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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:11:40 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Darryl's AC fan mod

I noticed on later cars there is both a high and low pressure switch (But it is near the condenser)..  While working on 01860 I saw the plug and jumper your speaking of.  I assumed this was for the intended high pressure switch. Nothing was broken, so I did not mess with it.  :)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 9:03 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Darryl's AC fan mod
> 
> 
> Hi John
> 
> Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but 
> allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a 
> plug'n'play solution :-) Does anyone know why there's that bizarre 
> "removable link" in the orange/pink feed to the evaporator - 
> you can see 
> it in the passenger footwell. You pull the feed from this and use it 
> (via the diode) to run the fan relay. This places the "drive" for the 
> fans up-stream of the low pressure switch.
> 
> Martin
> #1458

> 



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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 17:30:49 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??

Casey,
I believe the stock trans will hold 250 hp with out a big problem, 
maybe 300 if you are careful.  Good luck getting 400 hp out of our 
cars though.  If you do that I know a lot of guys that would come 
asking for your help.  This is for the manual transmission.  And I 
would think that the upgraded Centerforce would hold as much power as 
the transmission (250 without a problem).  Good luck.
-chris-
VIN 10213


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high 
performance. I am curious as to if any of you know what kind of 
Horsepower and torque the tranny will take, I once heard 275. I am 
not the pop the clutch at 5,000rpm kind of guy and am very smooth 
driver so is 300 too much what about 350, and 400? Also, I know I can 
get a centerforce clutch, what kind of power will that take before it 
starts to slip? Are there any other clutches you know of. And one 
last thing, will the chassis be able to cope with this. Thanks in 
advance.
> 
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_o...
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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