From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1148
Date: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 3:04 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Trans fluid.
From: "dursman" <>

2. Re: Re: Trans fluid.

3. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: Mark Noeltner <>

4. Re: Re: left fender - another version
From: Andrew <>

5. Question Re: Taillight Mod
From: "content22207" <>

6. Re: what kind of turbo?
From: "B Benson" <>

7. Re: Re: Question about steel bottle
From: Christian Williams <>

8. Re: Re: Question about steel bottle
From: Richard Strecker <>

9. Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 17:31:57 -0000
From: "dursman" <>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.

Yep, its a manual... thanks for the help.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> ---  "dursman" wrote:
> > Can anyone tell me the exact location for the fill cap,
> > filter, drain plug (if there even is one of these) for the 
> > transmission fluid?  Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance.
> Do you have an auto or manual box?
> Makes a lot of difference...
> If memory serves me right, an auto has an extra dipstick for
> the ATF somewhere near the front fire wall in the engine 
> compartment and has a separate final drive, while the 
> manual has the final drive and gears combined...
> Hope this helps,
> Jan van de Wouw
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
> --------------------------------


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:44:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Trans fluid.

In a message dated 8/6/02 11:47:05 AM Central Daylight Time, writes:

> Hi,
> Assuming you have a 5 speed tranny, the filler screw is on the 
> passenger side of the tranny.  The drain plug is on the bottom of the 
> tranny.  
> Erik

anyone have any good tips on removing the check plug on the manual tranny?  
mine won't budge.  what type of tool works best on it?  i know my fluid is 
good because i had it cracked open and cleaned last year -but i want to be 
able to check it at my leisure.

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:05:47 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod

Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this still be a
good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 02:03 PM 8/6/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi John
>Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but 
>allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a 


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:42:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <>
Subject: Re: Re: left fender - another version

On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Hank Eskin wrote:

> I asked how he knew that.. and he explained that it's the same for many
> (most?) older/collectible cars - the left front fenders are the most
> likely damaged in an accident (moreso than the right FF), and therefore
> there are less available due to natural replacement demand.

And how many of us drive our Deloreans planning all the while to swerve to
the left if an accident is inevitable, so the right side of the car takes
the damage?  I know I do.



Message: 5
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 21:21:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Question Re: Taillight Mod

Am considering following modification this winter:

On rear boards:
   Burn positions 2 and 4 as taillights
   Burn positions 2 3 and 4 as brake lights
I'd leave boards intact w/ OE single filament sockets -- insert mod
before card edge connectors. Positions 2 and 4 would be switched with
a relay triggered by 3 itself.

My question: would constant burn on 2 and 4 generate too much heat for
the bezels? That may be reason for extra large 3 (and a noticeably
smaller bulb).

Bill Robertson


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 17:20:11 -0500
From: "B Benson" <>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?

> Every supercharger I have seen blows the forced
> induction right through the carb or into the throttle
> body.   > HOWEVER, the BAE single turbo kit and the Turbo
> Manifold Twin kit are "blow-by"; ie, the forced
> induction is blown into the intake manifold to
> supplement the air pulled into the throttle body.
> Is there a performance advantage of one approach over
> the other?

Marc Levy's response comparing his legend set up to his Island system was
interesting. I'd like to expand on it with my experiences. I designed a draw
through system similar to the BAE kits and had good experiences with it for
several years. Eventually I had to have the turbo rebuilt by a local shop
here in Minnesota as I was experiencing blue smoke in the exhaust.
Everything went fine for several more years until the blue smoke appeared
again. After another rebuild, this time by Majestic Turbo in Waco, Texas I
still had blue smoke and oil in the intake. I called a super tuner and race
prep shop in Louisiana that I knew and they suggested having the turbo
checked by  Turbonetics in California as they said they'd had bad
experiences with Majestic.  The oil still found its way into the intake. My
conclusion is that the oil seal just can't be made positive with a simple
rebuild kit after all these miles. With a blow through set up like the
Legend car the vacuum in the intake side of the turbo rarely exceeds 5
inches Hg. On a draw through system like mine and the BAE kit the vacuum in
the intake side of the turbo can get as high as 29 inches Hg. Without a
positive seal between the center bearing area and the compression side, that
much vacuum will, without a doubt, suck oil into the intake. I used a Rajay
turbo similar to the one BAE used and I don't belive that particular turbo
is available as a new unit any longer. These turbos are used in a variety of
aircraft and there are parts available through aviation sources but anything
connected with something that flies has the price inflated considerably.
Rebuild kits are sometimes available but Turbonetic is one of the best turbo
shops around and my problem still persisted. I've abandoned the turbo for
now and run without it but I've heard of several other single turbo cars
with a draw through setup that have the same problem. If I were to design a
system again I'd go with the blow through arrangement because of this.

Bruce Benson


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 17:46:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about steel bottle

It wasn't the cap for a few reasons. First, when I stopped the car, steam
was still spraying from somewhere below the bottle (bottom of the bottle)
that I couldn't see. It wasn't coming from the cap. And secondly, I'm
still using the same cap on my steel bottle.


On Tue, 6 Aug 2002, jeremys_im wrote:

> couldn't this have easily been the cap not holding pressure as
> well? Especially since the bottle had no visable leak though
> since you only tested the bottle under the tap maybe it was.
> Justr wanted to remind everyone to check the caps as well. Had
> a cap fail on my 20 year old Mercedes this morning. A cheap part
> to keep in the car or just replace as well especially at this age.
> Jeremy
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> > Yep, it happened to me. I was on the highway at night and
> steam started
> > pouring out of the back of my car. It actually reminded me of the
> steam
> > that shot out of the BTTF car, but I digress. I had the car towed
> home,
> > took the header bottle out, and couldn't find a crack. I took it
> inside
> > and poured water in it, and it held water fine (remember
> though, it wasn't
> > under pressure). Since it looked like hell, I decided to put a
> stainless
> > bottle in. Swapping the bottles did the trick and now the coolent
> system
> > holds pressure.
> >
> > Just one of my misadventures.
> >
> > -Christian
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 21:25:49 -0400
From: Richard Strecker <>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about steel bottle

First you hear a loud POP, then you look in the rearview mirror & all you see is a cloud
of steam.  Then you see the temperature gauge head for the ceiling.  By that time
everyone is looking at you like they expect the car to disappear into the future, but
alas, you just coast to the berm of the freeway.  Say a few choice words & call AAA.

Once things have calmed down you can actually repair the bottle IF it has split along the
seam.  Some good marine epoxy and a couple of 10" SS hose clamps.  It doesn't look stock
but it holds water!!!

If it doesn't kill you, it makes you stronger..

daveswingle2 wrote:

> Actually that brings up another question. It is often stated that it
> is important to change the header bottle becaust the plastic one
> fails. I've seen dozens/hundreds(?) of these, and they often look
> pretty bad (yellow, "crazed"), but I've never actually heard first-
> hand of someone who's had one fail under operation. This system is
> commonly used on other euro cars of the same era (notably BMW/SAAB)
> and it is not common on those cars to consider this a must-replace
> item.
> Just wondering if anyone on the list has really, first-hand, seen one
> of these fail.
> Dave Swingle (Yes - changed mine to a SS bottle too - and still have
> a perfectly good but slightly yellow plastic one around here
> somewhere)
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > The "standard" metal bottle sold by the venders comes in S/S or
> > aluminum. It is approximatly the same size. ---
> ----
> >  I replaced mine not for looks but because the origional header
> bottle
> > ages and cracks.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 02:57:46 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES

I think your immediate troubles are caused by the circuit breaker.
To bulletproof the cooling system electrically I would do the 
Change the 2 circuit breakers for the cooling and heater fans to the 
higher capacity
Yank the Fan Fail Relay or whatever you currently have installed and 
get a Fanzilla
Replace the Otterstadt switch and seal (make sure you have the clip or 
at least a strap-tie on it)
 As long as you are going over the cooling system I also recomend the 
Replace the fan belts and idler pulley bearings
Install the self-bleeder
Install the metal header tank
Replace or at least test the pressure cap
Add a coolant recovery system
If you have the older piping system with the Otterstadt switch on top 
change to the later version with the switch on the bottom.
When you are all done pressure test to 15 psi for 15 min, there must 
be no leaks. During normal use you should never have to add coolant, 
if you do then you still have leaks most likely behind the water pump, 
either a hose or a seal on the distribution pipe.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "iqmpike" <iqmpike_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Just replaced the radiator on my Delorean (actually the entire 
> cooling system in the front, radiator, and hoses)...
> Anyhow... while it was sitting in my drive way, it hit the 220 mark, 
> and the fan didn't come on... it then kept heating up.... so I 
> the engine off...
> I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the 
> front fans on, and it didn't....
> Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when 
> the air was on, the fans came on....
> Then again today... same thing, they didn't function on either...
> Is this a common problem, and if so, what do I do to fix it?
> I would have thought it was a temp sensor.... but beings it doesn't 
> kick on with the AC I assume it's a relay or something?
> Any help appreciated.... thanks.
> Mike


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