From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1150
Date: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 9:39 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

2. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

3. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Question about steel bottle
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

5. RE: Re: How much HP will the tranny, clutch, and chassis take??
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

6. RE: Rotary D
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

7. Steering rack accelerated decrepitude
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

8. Re: Question Re: Taillight Mod
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

9. Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Set of 4 EOM (used) NCT's now available
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: what kind of turbo?
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

12. RE: Digest Number 1149
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

13. RE: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

14. RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane (long)
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

15. RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

16. RE: Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod
From: "Jerry Condray" <genghis_at_dml_sctelcom.net>

17. oil pressure
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs_at_dml_delorean.com>

18. tachometer gone haywire?
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy_at_dml_aol.com>

19. Re: Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

20. Re: Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: what kind of turbo?
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

22. Re: Question about steel bottle
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Set of 4 EOM (used) NCT's now available
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

24. Flashing (turn signal) side lights (thought #1)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: Steering rack accelerated decrepitude
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 10:27:58 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle

The original owner of my D thoughtfully installed a pair of hose clamps around the stock
plastic water bottle.  Over 120,000 miles later in the Texas heat and it is still intact.

Those of you with stock bottles and low concours aspirations may wish to install these
clamps as a preemptive measure.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN 4695



Richard Strecker wrote:

> First you hear a loud POP, then you look in the rearview mirror & all you see is a cloud
> of steam.  Then you see the temperature gauge head for the ceiling.  By that time
> everyone is looking at you like they expect the car to disappear into the future, but
> alas, you just coast to the berm of the freeway.  Say a few choice words & call AAA.
>
> Once things have calmed down you can actually repair the bottle IF it has split along the
> seam.  Some good marine epoxy and a couple of 10" SS hose clamps.  It doesn't look stock
> but it holds water!!!




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 10:41:45 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod

Harold McElraft was the original owner of my D, so I'm pretty sure I have this AC mod.
:-)   It will NOT work with the Fanzilla since the wiring in the relay sockets has been
rerouted.

I know this because I tried to install a Fanzilla, not knowing that my wiring was
modified.  In my D, the cooling fans come on when A/C is selected on the dash regardless
of the compressor; I initially thought all Deloreans did this.

The wiring mod is cheap (free?) and it works.  The Fanzilla is easier to install, stages
the fans on and off, and allows you to return to stock easily, but costs money.  Either
is a vast improvement over the stock configuration.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN 4695


Mark Noeltner wrote:

> Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this still be a
> good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 15:45:56 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod

With a fanzilla installed, the cooling fans will always run with the
a/c on.   Without a fanzilla, they cycle with the compressor.  It is
actually impossible to do this mod and install a fanzilla because the
stock wiring is required.  With Darryl's mod, each fan has it's own
relay;  The fanzilla plugs into the original single cool fan relay
socket.

John Yeoman

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this
still be a
> good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?
> 
> Mark N
> VIN 6820
> 
> At 02:03 PM 8/6/02 +0100, you wrote:
> >Hi John
> >
> >Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on,
but 
> >allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 12:00:12 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about steel bottle

What mileage do the stock bottles tend to crack?
 I know this also counts of where you live and how hot it gets
but you guys have got me worried.


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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:09:11 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Re: How much HP will the tranny, clutch, and chassis take??

I had the pleasure of riding in a Mercedes E-55.  Tons of power, excellent
comfort, very quite and great handling.

To get all of those features in a car, requires lots of money and
engineering talent.

My $0.02

Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031



-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 11:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis
take??


Have you ever ridden in a 350+ HP automobile? They are *exceptionally*
uncomfortable (remember: performance and comfort are at two opposite
ends of the spectrum). Cam action beats you to death. You have to
shout to be heard

snipped by Scott

Bill.

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high
>performance.
>
>what about 350, and 400?
>
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_o...




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 12:20:50 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Rotary D

Make a request for the 2004 show..  I hope to have my Prowler conversion done by then.  :)

Ken?  Can you help us out??  


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Brandys [mailto:BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 9:19 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Rotary D
> 
> 
> If we could only get all these hot rod Deloreans together on a drag 
> strip, it would be a blast.
> 
> BOB
> 



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 16:23:08 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Steering rack accelerated decrepitude

I seem to be suffering from the dreaded affliction of steering rack 
accelerated decrepitude. My rack is sloppy already and it seems like 
it's been less than 2 years since I installed my last one.

Since I seem to be chewing up steering racks at an accelerated rate, 
I wanted to get a better understanding for the common failure mode so 
I might better understand approaches that might be helpful in 
reducing my rack consumption rate.

First a description of the issue/symptoms: as usual for when the 
steering rack gets sloppy, the symptom is excessive play in the 
steering action. This play results in the car getting squirly when 
driving on rutted roads, and handling generally gets sloppy and lacks 
the precision handling that makes the DMC such a nice handling car.

Initial troubleshooting revealed no surprises. The slop is due to the 
inner tie rod end (usual). When the wheel is turned, the inner tie 
rod end initially translates vertically until some slack is taken up 
before it translates horizontally.

Now to my questions on understanding the rack failure modes: where 
the inner tie rod end enters the rack, is there a centering bushing 
through which the tie rod end passes? Is the slop that gets manifest 
as excessive vertical translation of the inner tie rod a result of 
the centering bushing getting elongated? If there is no such 
centering bushing (I guess I could just remove the boot and look for 
myself), what are the rack failure/wear modes that result in the 
observed kinds of slop (especially the vertical translation 
behavior). If there is a centering bushing, it seems that it would be 
pretty easy to improve its durabiltiy by turning a delron bushing (or 
name your favorite bushing material).

Knut





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 12:38:27 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Question Re: Taillight Mod

Speaking of tail light modifications.  Has anyone tried or has giving any 
thoughts on installing side turning lights that can be mounted on the front 
fender or under the mirrors without drilling or major alterations?  I believe 
that these sides lights would be an excellent add on for safety.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D  NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 17:09:31 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod

You must have different taillight boards than I do. I've got 5 single
filament sockets I'm calling:
1 Backup
2 & 4 Brake
3 Taillight
5 Turn

My vehicle currently looks somewhat anemic illuminated from the rear
(taillights only). Swapping tail and brake lights would double that
output. I don't think two bulbs alone would be enough brake
illumination, that's why I'd switch the circuit to activate all 6.

My concern is heat in the housing. My position 3 (only) has what
appear to be heat dissipating channels cast into it. Also came from
the factory with a smaller bulb in that socket only (both sides). Did
DMC do this to prevent housing from melting under constant burn? If
so, I'd better shelve the project (I can burn a smaller bulb but the
channels have me stumped). *UNLESS* someone knows of an LED array that
will fit an 1157 socket... 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Bill
> 
> I'm wondering "why?"
> 
> If you take the 4 brake lights to be 1 2 3 and 4, I think we've pretty 
> much decided over here that 2 and 3 aren't brake lights anyway. The 
> cluster was designed to include the european-required fog lights. If
you 
> look at them, 2 and 3 have a more focused pattern than 1 and 4. They
are 
> meant to be switched on when it's foggy, and perhaps you guys aren't 
> used to seeing them but I can guarantee one very quick way to annoy 
> other road users is to drive along with your fogs on when it ain't
foggy!
> 
> You might like to have a look at my foglight modification, which is 
> required on all UK DeLoreans
> 
> www.delorean.co.uk/foglights.html
> 
> Retains the use of all 4 lights for braking, but allows 2 and 3 to be 
> switched on independently.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> 
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> >Am considering following modification this winter:
> >
> >On rear boards:
> >   Burn positions 2 and 4 as taillights
> >   Burn positions 2 3 and 4 as brake lights
> >I'd leave boards intact w/ OE single filament sockets -- insert mod
> >before card edge connectors. Positions 2 and 4 would be switched with
> >a relay triggered by 3 itself.
> >
> >My question: would constant burn on 2 and 4 generate too much heat for
> >the bezels? That may be reason for extra large 3 (and a noticeably
> >smaller bulb).
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 17:39:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Set of 4 EOM (used) NCT's now available

Tire swap now complete. I have complete set of OEM NCT's for sale.
Will wait a day or two before I sell individually. Make me an offer
(and does anyone know how to ship these things?).

Particulars:
   195 60/14 and 235 60/15 blackwall
   15,000 miles (I just drove 1000 of those)
   Spider cracks in sidewalls (apparently that rubber is 1 layer
decorative, not structural)
   Declared "ain't bad" condition by local Goodyear
   14" manufactured Luxembourg, 15" manufactured Germany

FWIW: less tire roar than my new GT's, but ride harder.
Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:08:54 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?

Bob,

I believe most parafinic oil stock comes from Pennsilvania Crude.  I was
once told that Pennsoil was very dirty and lead to ash buildup quickly in
engnes.  Valvoline by comparison did not, however both were Pennsilvania
based parafinic oils.  Might have to do with other factors in the
formulation?

Don

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Brandys" <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 6:24 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] what kind of turbo?


>
>
> Donald
>
> I would be very careful about paraffinic based crude oil products.
>  Years ago a study was done of this type of oil versus non-paraffinic
> oils .   The parafinic products contained more wax type long change
> hydrocarbons.  These tended to brake down easily and carbonize resulting
> in waxy build up in motors and earily motor failure.
>
>  From my experience, over 45 years.  THe dirty engines that I have seen
> were from paraffinic based oils.
>
> BOB
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:34:35 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Digest Number 1149

David is right on this one. 99% sure it would be the accumulator. I had the
same problem, replaced the accumulator, and it fixed it. However, it seems
odd that you should have to wait several hours... 

I would also check the thermotime switch. If you smell a lot of gas it could
be stuck closed, flooding the engine. Simply pull the electrical plug on the
switch and try to start it. If it turns over, replace the switch.

________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 21
>    Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:48:10 -0000
>    From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
> Subject: Re: No Start is Now Starting ... KINDA!!
> 
> I assume when you say "nothing" you mean the engine cranks over but
> will not start. This now sounds like the classic "Hard Hot Start". I
> would check the accumulater. There is also a quick check to try.
> Temporaraly switch the plugs on the regulater and cold start valve,
> that should start it. If it does then it is either a bad, missing
> check valve on the fuel pump, leaky valve on the mixture unit, or a
> bad accumulater. Pull the return hose at the accumulater and if it
> shoots gas when the fuel pump runs (from the accumulater) then it is
> gone.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Ok .. once again .. THANK YOU ALL sooo much for all the help
> >
> > Really appreciated
> >
> > I am making headway here and the car will start up no problem in the
> > morning
> >
> > And idle fine
> >
> > BUT!!
> >
> > I let her warm up.. and then shut her off and try to start again..
> > NOTHING!
> >
> > Have to wait a few hours
> >
> > Try again and she goes!
> >
> > I am stumped
> >
> > The only thing I can think is that the mixture control unit
> adjustment
> > screw was screwed around with
> >
> > The village idiot here decided he would help me out and spin it
> around
> > and around
> >
> > When I asked him where it was originally. "Duh. I dunno"
> >
> > So .. I tried my best to adjust it to run properly . but I still run
> > into the problem of it not being able to start her back up
> immediately
> > when shut off
> >
> >
> > Any help is always appreciated!
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > Kenneth
> > 05541
> >
> >
> >



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:43:26 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Darryl's AC fan mod

> John Yeoman said "With a fanzilla installed, the 
> cooling fans will always run with the a/c on."

It has always been my understanding that the Fanzilla cycled the fans on
and off (with sequential delays) as the compressor cycled, and that they
didn't just turn on with the AC Mode Switch and stay running.  That is
one of the "benefits" stated for using it - less jerk or kick as the
compressor and fans cycled. The Zilla site says this cycling can occur
about every ten seconds, which is backed up by a comment from DMC Joe
"the DeLorean cycles at about 7 to 11 seconds" and "add Freon until the
compressor cycles within the above mentioned time period". 

There are two versions of Darryl's AC Fan Mod. One (in the 'Zine)
replaces the weak fan-fail relay and circuit breaker, and also explains
the continuous-run option. 
See page 17 of the Zine ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/zine001.pdf 

The second one just explains how to keep the fans running whenever the
Mode Switch is in one of the AC positions.
See http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/coolfan.htm

Keeping the fans on solves the jerking problem, since the fans don't
cycle with the compressor. This mod is also great for slow driving
conditions (like parades) since you can turn on the AC to force both
fans to run - which will definitely keep the engine temp down.  

However, if the circuit breaker isn't upgraded, it can overheat and
cycle - causing the fans to cycle occasionally even with the "continuous
run" mod. 

I'm not trying to compare Darry's fix to the Fanzilla (or the Fan Fix)
as to which is best. They each approach the problems in different ways.
Cost, benefits, quality, fun, and resale value are all things that
should be considered - in addition to your technical capabilities.  

Whichever one you choose, copy the instructions, and keep one set in a
folder, and the other in the relay compartment.  Future owners or
service people shouldn't have to guess at what you have modified.

I feel that the cooling fan circuit is one of the most important areas
of the D to get fixed - before you find out the hard way.  A lot of the
overheat problems mentioned on the DML would not have happened if one of
these fixes was installed, along with a continuous air-bleed bypass and
occasional checks of the coolant level.

Gary
www.IN2TIME.com





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 23:35:25 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane (long)

John Hervey recently posted this comment following an earlier negative posting, and I'm sorry but I just can't let these slide:

>>I also had a bad experience with Mr. Lane, He didn't read the instructions 
with the alternator I sold a person and he burned up two of them. He didn't 
hook up the brown/yellow light wire and burned up two regulators. It seems nobody could tell him anything. He may be good on engines, but on other things I would 
watch out.<<

Since Mr. Lane is a valued customer of mine, and he does not moniter this list, I forwarded this comment to him.  Here is John Lane's response:

>>I remember all too well dealing with this guy [Hervey] and his junk alternators.  A customer brought in one of his 'turned up' GM alternators for us to install.   It (like almost every GM alternator)  uses a total of TWO wires, one of which goes to the amp light, the other to the battery.  Even I would have a hard time getting that wrong.  If I remember correctly, [after two failed Hervey alternators]the customer purchased a 90 amp Bosch alternator from me and has had no troubles since.   It also uses two wires.....Somehow I was unable to fry it. Hmmmmmmm.........The source (John Hervey) was trying fairly hard to not come across as a jerk (dealing with him and his 'turned up' alternators), but failed.  Somehow I am not surprised at this noise on the internet. Everyone with a keyboard is an expert on the internet. This is why I generally stay away from the internet lists now.  I don't care for the mudslinging.     

I have never promised anyone that I wouldn't make a living at the work I do.   I go to great effort to make certain that I do a nice job for my clients.    I do make a living doing it too.  I have never claimed to be any manner of 'expert' at dealing with DeLoreans.   I am quite able to find and fix those things that go wrong with them.  As it goes, DeLoreans account for less then 1/2 of 1% of what we do here at Pacific Rim Automotive.  I will gladly pass on a job that I don't care to do for whatever reason, or for whatever individual.  I can't make everyone happy, but I  work hard for those who can be pleased.   

I am way too close to saying to hell with working on DeLoreans altogether due in part to this kind of garbage.   If you people are wanting to lose an individual who is willing to work on these cars, keep it up.
John Lane, Pacific Rim Automotive, Seattle<<

In my opinion, Mr. Lane is being way too polite.  He is probably one of the most knowledable PRV mechanics in the country, having successfully off-road raced his 500HP twin turbo Volvo for years.  I have seen the car at his shop, and those who have ridden in it or watched it race say it is incredible.  And you don't think he knows how to hook up an alternator?  Pacific Rim is one of only two PNDC-authorized DeLorean repair facilities in the Seattle area.  We certainly don't want him to turn DeLorean owners away because of unsubstantiated negative comments made here by Mr. Hervey. If failure to hook up the light wire caused two alternators to burn up (which I highly doubt), they are way too jerry-rigged, over-stressed and fragile to be used.  

In Mr. Lane's opinion, Mr. Hervey refused to acknowledge that his alternators were faulty.  Personally, I would tend to respect the opinion of the proprietor of a major NW import repair shop over  that of a relative newcomer whose most memorable previous post was that, as a former fire marshall, he felt it was unnecessary for novice mechanics to have a fire extinguisher handy when working on the DeLorean fuel system.  Remember that?  As they say, consider the source. 

Darryl Tinnerstet
THE ORIGINAL Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA  




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 15:15:03 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane

Moderator-  I re-wrote one line to clarify my thoughts..  After a re-read I see it may have been unclear.  Please send this instead of the first (of if you sent the first, send this one in addition) -Thanks


FWIW, when I was investigating building a hi-po PRV engine John Lane was helpful with advice and recommendations.  I have never met him or had any business dealings with him, but he did seem to be a supporter of DeLoreans in general..  It was information that John sent that help me decide to dump the hi-po PRV idea due to high cost.

I would hope that anyone considering services from Mr. Lane would not base their decision on a few DML posts.

BTW Darryl, what do you mean by "THE ORIGINAL"?  is someone trying to steal your name?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darryl Tinnerstet [mailto:darryl_at_dml_techline.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 2:35 AM
> To: DMCNews
> Cc: John Lane
> Subject: [DML] RE: Pacific Rim and John Lane (long)
> 
> 
> John Hervey recently posted this comment following an earlier 
> negative posting, and I'm sorry but I just can't let these slide:
> 
><SNIP>
> 
> Darryl Tinnerstet
> THE ORIGINAL Specialty Automotive
> McCleary, WA  



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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:30:18 -0500
From: "Jerry Condray" <genghis_at_dml_sctelcom.net>
Subject: RE: Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod

I installed an "LED" array in my taillight sockets.  Am real satisfied.
I also installed a "Brake light" light bar from a Chevy suburban on the top
of the uppermost louver of the rear sunshade and wired it in with the brake
lights.  Both mods give more protection from rear end collisions.  The local
AutoZone carries LED replacements for bulbs.  See the web page for
jamstrait.com

Jerry.

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 12:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod


You must have different taillight boards than I do. I've got 5 single
filament sockets I'm calling:
1 Backup
2 & 4 Brake
3 Taillight
5 Turn

My vehicle currently looks somewhat anemic illuminated from the rear
(taillights only). Swapping tail and brake lights would double that
output. I don't think two bulbs alone would be enough brake
illumination, that's why I'd switch the circuit to activate all 6.

My concern is heat in the housing. My position 3 (only) has what
appear to be heat dissipating channels cast into it. Also came from
the factory with a smaller bulb in that socket only (both sides). Did
DMC do this to prevent housing from melting under constant burn? If
so, I'd better shelve the project (I can burn a smaller bulb but the
channels have me stumped). *UNLESS* someone knows of an LED array that
will fit an 1157 socket...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Bill
>
> I'm wondering "why?"
>
> If you take the 4 brake lights to be 1 2 3 and 4, I think we've pretty
> much decided over here that 2 and 3 aren't brake lights anyway. The
> cluster was designed to include the european-required fog lights. If
you
> look at them, 2 and 3 have a more focused pattern than 1 and 4. They
are
> meant to be switched on when it's foggy, and perhaps you guys aren't
> used to seeing them but I can guarantee one very quick way to annoy
> other road users is to drive along with your fogs on when it ain't
foggy!
>
> You might like to have a look at my foglight modification, which is
> required on all UK DeLoreans
>
> www.delorean.co.uk/foglights.html
>
> Retains the use of all 4 lights for braking, but allows 2 and 3 to be
> switched on independently.
>
> Cheers
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> content22207 wrote:
>
> >Am considering following modification this winter:
> >
> >On rear boards:
> >   Burn positions 2 and 4 as taillights
> >   Burn positions 2 3 and 4 as brake lights
> >I'd leave boards intact w/ OE single filament sockets -- insert mod
> >before card edge connectors. Positions 2 and 4 would be switched with
> >a relay triggered by 3 itself.
> >
> >My question: would constant burn on 2 and 4 generate too much heat for
> >the bezels? That may be reason for extra large 3 (and a noticeably
> >smaller bulb).
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >



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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 12:34:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: oil pressure

Hey everyone;

I just made a climate move from NC to Fla, and since then I have noticed a peculiar problem.  When the car first starts, the oil pressure reads fine, around 45-50..but after about 25 minutes of driving, it almost reads 0.  The oil level is fine, and there aren't any major leaks...anyone else have a problem like this? Is this possibly a faulty gauge?  Thanks!

Scott

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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 20:11:25 -0000
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: tachometer gone haywire?

Can anybody tell me if there is a relay for the tachometer? Mine has 
been giving me trouble lately,sometimes not working or getting stuck 
at 4 thousand rpm's, Someone told me that it might be a relay.If 
anybody has an idea of what this could be please let me know
thank you
brian




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 15:19:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??

On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, content22207 wrote:

> Have you ever ridden in a 350+ HP automobile? They are *exceptionally*
> uncomfortable...

I beg to differ (as I wander off-topic...).  My daily driver is a heavily
tweaked 430 horsepower Audi S4 (or 470 horsepower if I shell out for 104
octane) and it is totally comfortable, even with a performance suspension.
Cam action is unnoticeable, the idle is smooth as silk, and it is totally
streetable.

Maybe some of the all-out hot rods you've been in are uncomfortable rides,
but a well designed high performance sports sedan can be extremely
civilized.

To bring this a little bit back toward on-topic, I am about to embark on
an engine swap on my Delorean, replacing the PRV with the same type of
twin turbo V6 as in the Audi (albeit not tweaked beyond its stock 265
horsepower), and I intend to make sure the D is just as civilized when I'm
done as it was when I began.  It can be done.

-andrew
 #4115, Houston TX





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:34:26 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Attn: Martin Re: Taillight Mod

Hi Bill

The OEM tail light is smaller than the more powerful brake so you cannot mix up the
wattages. You'd find it tough to find a higher wattage bulb with the same fitting. And of
course the tail lights do not have mirrored reflector unlike the other lights - correct?

I agree though, they are pretty pathetic. Anyone try one of these Neon headlight
illuminating lights you can buy off ebay? Should be dead easy to try at least.

Martin
#1458

content22207 wrote:

> You must have different taillight boards than I do. I've got 5 single
> filament sockets I'm calling:
> 1 Backup
> 2 & 4 Brake
> 3 Taillight
> 5 Turn




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 16:52:02 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?

Any oil introduced to the combustion chamber will create a carbon build up
on the valves, pistons, and cylinder head. The results will be an increase
in the compression ratio and a tendency to create pre-ignition because of
the retained heat in the carbon deposits. Both are arch ememies of
turbocharged cars.

Bruce Benson


>He maintained that if you read the
> label and it stated that it was refined from "paraffin based" crude that
it
> would burn clean (like a candle).  I didn't question it at the time but it
> seemed to work just fine.  Maybe it would work equally well for our oil
> burning turbo cars now?
>
> Don Ekhoff





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 21:56:56 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Question about steel bottle

Don't worry to much about the bottle cracking. Just make sure that 
your Cap on the bottle is in good condition that it will blow off 
extra pressure that builds up in the bottle. That's the main cause 
of bottle failure. The cap is cheap enough to replace evrytime you 
change the antifreeze in your car and it's also very easy for a 
mechanic to test them to make sure that it is good. I would just 
keep an eye out on it looking for any signs of cracks on it. It's 
not to say "Quick run out and get the steel bottle!" it's just a 
caution. I have the original bottle on my car and when I have enough 
money I will replace it but for now my money is going to other more 
important things on the car like a fanzilla and new door seals :).

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> What mileage do the stock bottles tend to crack?
>  I know this also counts of where you live and how hot it gets
> but you guys have got me worried.
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 18:04:16 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Set of 4 EOM (used) NCT's now available

In a message dated 8/7/02 2:52:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net writes:

<< (and does anyone know how to ship these things?). >>
When I got my tires from Tirerack.com, they just slapped a shipping label on 
the side of them and shipped them through UPS.



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:26:00 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Flashing (turn signal) side lights (thought #1)

Never occurred to me (all my vehicles are 1981 or earlier -- front &
rear flashers only). Is interesting idea however.

Night time only would be easy mod to existing sidelight: splice in a
normally closed relay and trigger it with a wire from the front turn
signal. Limitations: would only flash when side lights are on, would
flash on & off (not bright & dim) and would alternate flashes with
front light.

It's been a long day at work (brain is fried)-- let me think on this
tonight to get daytime flash too. With existing socket you're limited
to on & off (unless we drop the voltage ...)

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., kayoong_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Speaking of tail light modifications.  Has anyone tried or has
giving any 
> thoughts on installing side turning lights that can be mounted on
the front 
> fender or under the mirrors without drilling or major alterations? 
I believe 
> that these sides lights would be an excellent add on for safety.
> 
> Kayo Ong
> #5508
> Lic 9D  NY
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:52:46 EDT
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Steering rack accelerated decrepitude

When I took off my rack I found that there was no bushing in the end. rather 
than buy a whole new rack I had a machine shop make me a brass bushing and I 
installed it now the steering is tight. how this came to be is anyones guess.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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