From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1162
Date: Saturday, August 17, 2002 1:10 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: electric delorean webpage
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: Live DeLorean (Attn: Martin Gutkowski)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Re: Bizarre electrical problem
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Re: K-Jetronic EFI
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Fw: oil pressure
From: Bob

6. Re: Starting Help
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Main Oil Seal Leak
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Fw: oil pressure
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

9. Re: Starting Help
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

10. Re: electric delorean webpage
From: "_designer_" <_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Fw: First gear and reverse vibration
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

12. Re: Need help Re: accessing electrical distributor
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Deloreans in hawaii
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Fw: oil pressure
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

16. Re: Electric Delorean and cost
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>

17. "Dizzy" Martin Gutkowski (we call them "distributors" on this side)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Electrics... ignition!
From: "funkymcfly" <danielpwillis_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Fw: oil pressure
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

20. Re: electric delorean webpage
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

21. Re: Re: Starting Help
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

22. Stuck Door
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

23. Re: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Stuck Door
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Correct replica Flux Capacitor for sale!
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:26:41 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: electric delorean webpage

We've been chatting abou tthis on DMCforum - I believe the car will run using this
electric motor, but it'll be a poor comparison to a petrol engine - even the stock PRV.
On the face of it accelleration might be impressive - such is the nature of electric
motors - but take everything else on the site with a crate of salt. Much of what's
claimed for this system flies in the face of the laws of physics.

BTW 130bhp roughly equates to 100kW - and a 100kW motor would be somewhat bigger than
that one....

Martin
#1458

erikgeerdink wrote:

> http://www.tilleyfoundation.com/
>
> does anyone else think this is a load of crap?  I mean, 127mph on an
> electric engine that doesn't need to be recharged at all and just
> runs off of batteries?




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:33:49 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Live DeLorean (Attn: Martin Gutkowski)

Hi Bill

I'm deliberately posting this back to the list to tell you about another of my car's
symptoms. You can mail me anytome on webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk

I took the car out for a spin on a sunday afternoon - a SUNNY, warm sunday. On arrival
back, I decided to give her a wash. This included a good hose down, and more than a
little spray of the engine bay. Sure as god made little apples, she wouldn't start
immediately afterwards. I waited 5 minutes (hot engine remember) and she fired first
time.

To be honest, there's not much "electrics" actually involved here! Something's getting
wet, and it's almost certainly the dizzy. How I have no idea - unless the cap's been
cracked as John suggested (looked fine in October, but a number of 20-year-old parts on
my car have gone wrong in the "shake-down" time since!). It's certainly not an expensive
part to replace anyway. Just haven't got around to it yet.

My ignition circuit is working fine - mine will cough on 2 cylinders when cranking, but
won't fire up. Next time it happenns I am going to try a direct 12v across the coil.

Cheers

Martin
#1458

content22207 wrote:

> Attn: Martin Gutkowski -- would you be willing to correspond about my
> little situation? A British electician may be just what I need (can
> you spell "wet weather"). If so, please eMail me direct:
> brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net (no sense in wasting the group's bandwidth).




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:36:41 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Bizarre electrical problem

Hi David

Thanks for the input - I'll let Rich reply direct if he wants - I know he's working on it
all tomorrow.

FYI we have a lot of receipts from D1 for #2727 *wink*

She also came with a battery cut off switch, and there aren't any mods that I've seen,
except the eletric antenna.

Martin
#1458

jtrealtywebspannet wrote:

> My guess is "Jack The Ripper" was the last person to work on the
> wiring in this Delorean! Once you start looking at the wiring you will
> find all kinds of crossfeeds and wiring problems. Start at the source,
> the battery, and move to the fuseblock, plugs and wiring harnesses.
> Make sure all of the ground connections are intact. When you have
> problems like this you have to assume that there are "repairs" all
> over so you must inspect everything. Be sure of the correct size fuse
> in the right spots and same goes for bulbs. Many of our cars have gone
> through several hands and not all knew what they were doing. It is
> also possible that there is a problem in a wiring harness, either it
> got caught in something and some wires are shorting or maybe even a
> section got melted. Nothing can substitute for a THOURGH visual and
> physical inspection of all the wiring and hidden areas. This can take
> a while but that may be what it takes to find all of the problems. Be
> careful with the wiring diagrams, there are some subtle errors on them
> and they are mostly for the 81's. This problem is also a drain on the
> battery and if it sits too long will kill it. Undocumented
> modifacations are the worst, like alarms, hidden switches, auxilliary
> functions, radios, etc. Best thing to do is disconnect them and hope
> problems go away.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:43:17 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: K-Jetronic EFI

K-Jet provides a linear relationship between fuelling and air induced. Unfortunately in
an "ideal engine" this relationship is not perfectly linear and depends on a number of
external factors. The K-Star allows you to add electronic ignition and fuelling control
withut replacing the K-Jet system. For a modded engine, (Island twin for eg) this makes a
lot of sense - have you seen the mickey-mouse way the fuelling's controlled when under
boost?! It probably won't do much for a stock PRV though.

[disclaimer - I'm no expert, but I've spoken to people who are, and I'm trying to repeat
to the best of my knowledge!]

Martin
#1458 - exhaust manifold gaskets tomorrow!

jtrealtywebspannet wrote:

> This looks interesting but what is it supposed to accomplish? If you
> have a properly set-up and running fuel and ignition system what
> further enhancement does this device provide? Does it improve
> emmisions, economy or performance? It definatly will reduce
> reliability as it adds another layer of complexity over the mechanical
> fuel injection AND the ignition. All of these types of add-ons cannot
> work if put onto a system that isn't operating correctly in the first
> place so what is the point?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 19:12:10 -0500
From: Bob
Subject: Fw: oil pressure




I have had my 1981 Delorean since 1999 and have noticed that the oil pressure is maxing out past 80psi.!  The car has 18000 original miles and I have changed the oil regularly.  When I first got the car I warmed it up then changed the oil.  Then I ran it 100 miles and changed it again.  It seems to be flowing through the engine alright but it worries me.  Could it just be a bad sensor?  Bob




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 20:08:20 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Starting Help

Bobby, I have an Idea for you car. Bring it to Dallas for me to look at it. 
When I fix yours then I can fix the others.
John Hervey
www.special T auto.com




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 20:16:47 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Main Oil Seal Leak

In a message dated 8/16/02 6:05:23 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> Hi,
>     My car has been dripping small amounts of oil on the garage floor 
> recently.  After putting the car on a hoist I can see that it is coming out 
> 
> of the rear Main seal.(parts manual 1/1/4 #23).  I checked the pressure 
> sender switch and that is not what is leaking.  What would be the best way 
> for me to replace this seal?  Would it be easier to just remove the engine? 
> 
> Or can it be done on the car with the rear fascia removed? Any help would 
> be 
> greatly appreciated.  I have been using synthetic oils in the car since 
> I've 
> had it, maybe that is speeding up the leak?
> 
>     
> Thanks
> 
> David
> #6286, Grand Rapids MI

David,

i believe you are talking about the FRONT seal? the rear seal is behind the 
flywheel.  

synthetic will not necessarily cause an old engine to leak.  the difference 
is that every molecule of synthetic oil is the same type and size, as opposed 
to conventional oil which has lots of stuff in it.  therefore it is easier 
for synthetic oil to flow thru old seals that didn't leak before. 

as far as i know, the rear fascia is recommended to be removed to do this 
job, or at least the muffler.  i have never done this job nor have i seen 
anyone do it.

Andy
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:34:44 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: oil pressure

Bob - It is more than likely a bad sending unit.  I damaged mine 
during an oil filter change, and it "pegs" with the engine running.  I 
know that my pressures are correct.  There are several replacement 
senders that are advertised as being "more accurate" than the original 
sender.  Most vendors have them available.  The sending unit for the 
gauge is next to the oil filter.  The sending unit for the idiot light 
is on the opposite side, just behind the A/C compressor.  If the idiot 
light is functional, it *should* show a real problem if you have one.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Bob wrote:

> I have had my 1981 Delorean since 1999 and have noticed that the oil 
pressure is maxing out past 80psi.!  The car has 18000 original miles 
and I have changed the oil regularly.  When I first got the car I 
warmed it up then changed the oil.  Then I ran it 100 miles and 
changed it again.  It seems to be flowing through the engine alright 
but it worries me.  Could it just be a bad sensor?  Bob
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:45:03 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Help

Bobby - Your story sounds alot like the story of a PNDC member who 
took a trip to California with his RV, but towing his D on a car 
dolly.  While driving his D through "wine country", it stalled, and 
wouldn't start, regardless of what he tried.  He was getting no spark, 
but everything appeared to check out okay, if I remember the facts of 
the case correctly.  BTW - he's owned the car since new, so he is an 
experienced DeLorean owner.  He finally gave up, and towed his car 
home.  He took it to a local shop that we frequent, and the problem 
was solved in about 15 seconds.  The connections at the ballast 
resistor were somewhat loose and corroded.  A little cleaning and 
tightening, and *presto* - no more challenges.  I believe that David T 
mentioned this in one of his recent posts as an area to check for with 
starting problems.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "BDM" <bmims1_at_dml_u...> wrote:
The car would not start at all for serval days.  When the car was 
delivered in Houston it started right up and was driven off the 
trailer.  A week later I started it to drive on some errands and the 
damn thing stalled again just like before and now sits in my driveway, 
after another tow job, and has the exact same symptoms as it had 
before ...




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:53:55 -0000
From: "_designer_" <_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: electric delorean webpage

Sounds like good POLL material to me!  I know I'd vote "Load of Crap".

The Web site crashed my browser twice, and when I finally viewed pics 
of them messing up the engine compartment I was pissed.  I modify & 
customize my DMC, but it was nowhere near restorable when I bought 
it.  It looks like they took a good example and messed it up.




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 00:58:30 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: First gear and reverse vibration

Ski - This sounds like clutch shudder to me.  When a clutch disk gets 
close to the end of it's life, or gets contaminated by oil or some 
other material (leaking main seal or clutch slave cylinder), you can 
get a shuddering or vibration when you first start out, mainly in 
reverse.  You can also get rough engagement and disengagement during 
shifting, although most DeLoreans suffer from clashing second gear 
during a spirited shift.  You may want to remove the inspection plate, 
and see if you can gage the thickness of the clutch disk.  Mine lasted 
about 70K miles before it expired.  It didn't shudder much - it simply 
quit transferring power to the pavement.  I now have a Centerforce 
setup - much improvement over stock.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., vegascop1_at_dml_y... wrote:
> > Hello, I was wondering if anyone else has ever experienced this 
problem. When I start the D, warm her up couple minutes and than start 
to back out of the garage I experience vibration from the rear. Also 
same goes when I have her out and put it in first gear its the same 
thing. When I get rolling and I want to put it in second really fast 
the tranny grinds! 




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 21:18:55 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Need help Re: accessing electrical distributor

In a message dated 8/16/02 6:59:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jwit6_at_dml_cs.com 
writes:

<< Start by removing the six bolts that hold the body to the frame.......:-)
 
 Sorry... Couldn't resist..... >>


Uhh its 12 bolts...been there...done that...

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 02:42:12 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Deloreans in hawaii

Join the Delorean Owner's Directory. You can get it _at_dml_ DMCNEWS.COM. My 
Feb 2002 shows 4 Deloreans in Hawaii.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> any body know anyone who has a delorean in hawaii they want to sell 
> or get rid of? i am looking for another project delorean,
> 
> John
> Vin#2030
> Honolulu,Hi




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 02:56:41 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: oil pressure

For all on the list that are interested the OEM oil pressure sending 
unit (the one for the gauge located by the oil filter) is horribly 
inacurrate. Marty Maier (wing2d_at_dml_aol.com) has a replacement that makes 
the gauge work the way it is supposed to. I highly recomend it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Bob wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I have had my 1981 Delorean since 1999 and have noticed that the oil 
pressure is maxing out past 80psi.!  The car has 18000 original miles 
and I have changed the oil regularly.  When I first got the car I 
warmed it up then changed the oil.  Then I ran it 100 miles and 
changed it again.  It seems to be flowing through the engine alright 
but it worries me.  Could it just be a bad sensor?  Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 23:32:39 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....

I finally got my A/C working (only took 1 1/2 years and $2,500!)
 
My problem though seems to be this (and I dont know how much is normal,
or to be concerned with)
 
When ideling, with A/C on, my car blows cold, BUT the voltage DROPS down
to about 9 volts!
When accellerating (or just reving the car a little) the voltage goes
back up...BUT my fan kicks on and off every 5 seconds!  (runs for 5, off
for 5)
 
I KNOW that the fan is not right.....or at least I think so. 
 
Can you offer any advise (dont ask me to check pressure, etc..  I dont
have the equipment/knowledge to do so)
 
I just picked the car up today from the shop (had A/C done about a week
ago, and had to bring it back due to the fact that the oraphus tube was
not sitting right and had to be fixed)
 
Please provide any insight as to what is normal, or what I should do to
take care of these issues.
 
THANKS!!!
 
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 23:44:54 -0400
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
Subject: Re: Electric Delorean and cost

In addition to my delorean expierences I have an old electric car from the 1982 world's fair that doesn't run.  I started researching electric vehicles, and discovered you can buy complete conversion kits (motor batteries, and even instructions in some cases) for less than $3,000, and I have seen such kits installed primarily in volkswagens.  Most of the conversions are manual transmision cars however, and still take advantage of the stock transmission and clutch system.



I have always thought an electric delorean would be neat, but it would probably be really hot without air conditioning and perhaps underpowered as well. I have not seen or heard of this electric delorean in TN before, but I wouldn't be too quick to doubt the maker's claims about speed.  Electric motors can spin just as fast as gas ones.  I am a little surprised by the claim about power loss however, from the owner's description they kept the disc brakes. Many of the electric cars I've seen have power generator that help slow the car and recharge the batteries at the same time.  



Joe Palatinus



VIN 17167 6808





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 04:28:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: "Dizzy" Martin Gutkowski (we call them "distributors" on this side)

I've seen it! (I think). Climbed up into my engine bay, stood on my
head, and there in the distance was the faint outline of an electrical
distributor. Until now thought its existence was just a vicious rumor.

Seriously, the thing appears cocked to one side, with the sending unit
wire halfway down the slope. Unless they've repealed the law of
gravity, could any water that condenses, sprays, etc on it flow along
the edge of the cap (leaking inside?), puddle wherever the sending
unit connects, and otherwise cause mischief? Just a thought.

When I excavate mine (if NASA can put a man on the moon I *SHOULD* be
abe to change a stupid cap & rotor), may wrap the edge the cap with
tape. If the base has no drain hole I'll leave the low side free.
Couldn't hurt. Might treat myself to a new sending unit wire (it's
only money) and seal it too.

I washed the engine in one of my Lincolns once. The key word here is
"once". Give me a dirty engine that starts over a shiny dead one any
day. My usual practice is to spray several cans of engine degreaser
(engine hot) and just let it drip off. Leaves a white residue, but
even that eventually burns away.

Speaking of water, is the ignition resistor supposed to have a cover?
Of course mine doesn't. Think I'll rig one up (and cover the relay).

Notice Yahoo truncated my eMail address. Try me again:
brobertson(at)carolina.net.

My own moisture problem appears to be those insidious little drops in
a cold misty morning, not big fat drops from a garden hose. Next time
the car does it I'm going to crawl all over the thing with gauges &
lights. Hopefully it'll be in my own driveway. Ignition circuit is
really quite simple -- there's only *so* many places the problem can
be. I'm really beginning to suspect the resistor & relay (whose bright
idea was it to put a relay outside in the engine compartment anyway?).
Next *little* rain will tell.

Disected my melted headlight switch. Was actually only one small blob
-- scraped it off and now works fine. Remember earlier DML thread Re:
amperage through the switch? Of course full brunt of side & tail
lights in there (I still maintain headlight amps are minimal needed to
trigger the relays). Tomorrow will add a relay next to headlight units
for the side & tail lights (remember: I'm eventually going to add two
more bulbs to my circuit). Then can guarantee switch will be subjected
to negligible load. 

Re: David Teitelbaum's suggestion for Rich to look for pinched wiring
harness -- is not far fetched. My A/C evaporator drain hose was
pinched between frame and body at the factory. Trapped water for 20
years (and ruined my carpet, thank you very much).

Enough bandwidth for one evening (shoot me an eMail address so I won't
bore the List to death next time),

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi Bill
> 
> I'm deliberately posting this back to the list to tell you about
another of my car's
> symptoms. You can mail me anytome on webmaster_at_dml_d...
> 
> I took the car out for a spin on a sunday afternoon - a SUNNY, warm
sunday. On arrival
> back, I decided to give her a wash. This included a good hose down,
and more than a
> little spray of the engine bay. Sure as god made little apples, she
wouldn't start
> immediately afterwards. I waited 5 minutes (hot engine remember) and
she fired first
> time.
> 
> To be honest, there's not much "electrics" actually involved here!
Something's getting
> wet, and it's almost certainly the dizzy. How I have no idea -
unless the cap's been
> cracked as John suggested (looked fine in October, but a number of
20-year-old parts on
> my car have gone wrong in the "shake-down" time since!). It's
certainly not an expensive
> part to replace anyway. Just haven't got around to it yet.
> 
> My ignition circuit is working fine - mine will cough on 2 cylinders
when cranking, but
> won't fire up. Next time it happenns I am going to try a direct 12v
across the coil.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> 
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> > Attn: Martin Gutkowski -- would you be willing to correspond about my
> > little situation? A British electician may be just what I need (can
> > you spell "wet weather"). If so, please eMail me direct:
> > brobertson_at_dml_c... (no sense in wasting the group's bandwidth).




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 11:21:19 -0000
From: "funkymcfly" <danielpwillis_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Electrics... ignition!

Hi all,

Well I've been "delving" in to the wonderful world of modified 
DeLorean electrics... to say that my car is a little unusual would be 
an understatement. Can you imagine buying a workshop manual for a car 
only to find that your ACTUAL car bares little resemblence? Funny... 
not.

Anyhooo. I think I've determined that my relays (the ones I have) are 
okay. The wiring is pretty much okay (except for one earth - on the 
wiper unit) and I have hazards and beams... but no ignition. So I 
think my ignition barrel has gone. Since everything PAST the barrel 
works but turning the key gets nothing I can't see any other reason 
for it!

I can't find these listed on the main US sites (i'm in the UK). Are 
they servicable?

I should be able to post some pictures today or tomorrow... 

Cheers peeps!

Dan
Vin#5284 - Hana - www.projectmadness.com (nearly there!)




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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 09:23:02 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: oil pressure

Yep, bad sensor. Easy to replace.  DO it when you change oil next, 
because the oil filter restricts access to the sender.  
BOB

Bob wrote:

>
>I have had my 1981 Delorean since 1999 and have noticed that the oil pressure is maxing out past 80psi.!  The car has 18000 original miles and I have changed the oil regularly.  When I first got the car I warmed it up then changed the oil.  Then I ran it 100 miles and changed it again.  It seems to be flowing through the engine alright but it worries me.  Could it just be a bad sensor?  Bob
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 09:25:52 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: electric delorean webpage

Sounds like a violation of the second law of thermodynamics to me.
BOB

erikgeerdink wrote:

>http://www.tilleyfoundation.com/
>
>does anyone else think this is a load of crap?  I mean, 127mph on an 
>electric engine that doesn't need to be recharged at all and just 
>runs off of batteries?  
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
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>





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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 09:49:32 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Starting Help

>  The connections at the ballast
> resistor were somewhat loose and corroded.  A little cleaning >and
> tightening, and *presto* - no more challenges.  > starting >

> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1

A few years back we were running in the Wisconsin Sports Car Classic and our
base was a hotel in Racine, Wisconson. The group had spent the evening at
Great Lakes Drag Strip where we had a free run of the strip for the evening.
The return trip to the hotel took us through some farm country and
eventually through a rather seedy side of Racine. Along the route I heard a
loud bang as we were passing a farm where several men were standing in the
front yard. I assumed one of them was shooting a shot gun at something. As
we entered the seedy side of Racine the bang sounded again. It was coming
from Dick Ryan's car. The next time it happened Dick was alongside an
unmarked police car with two detectives in it. It was dark and this was a
pretty bad part of town. Marty Maier was driving behind Dick and the next
thing they knew the detectives were out of their car and ready to out gun
the perpetrators. When they discovered it was a car problem they stood guard
while Marty and Dick found the problem..... a loose wire on the ballast
resistor. They even provided the guys a police escort back to the hotel.

Bruce Benson


>  The connections at the ballast
> resistor were somewhat loose and corroded.  A little cleaning >and
> tightening, and *presto* - no more challenges.  > starting >

> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1





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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 10:43:26 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Stuck Door

I still can't get my driver's door open.  I have tried messing with the rods 
and everything, and nothing works.  I'm at the point now where I am thinking 
of drilling out the old latch assembly from the inside.  Has anyone tried this 
before?

Thanks
  Willie
  Vin 5043




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 15:03:37 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....

The alternater isn't putting out enough. You may have the wrong pulley 
on it or the belt is slipping. The fan cycles because the circuit 
breaker must be changed, do the cooling fan breaker too. In fact just 
order an relay upgrade kit from one of the venders. It is also 
possible the A/C was overcharged but only way to know for sure is to 
put a set of gauges on the car. Hey, I'll work on your car and only 
charge 1/2 that amount! I think I can also do it a little faster, it's 
hard to drive a "D" without A/C.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I finally got my A/C working (only took 1 1/2 years and $2,500!)
>  
> My problem though seems to be this (and I dont know how much is 
normal,
> or to be concerned with)
>  
> When ideling, with A/C on, my car blows cold, BUT the voltage DROPS 
down
> to about 9 volts!
> When accellerating (or just reving the car a little) the voltage 
goes
> back up...BUT my fan kicks on and off every 5 seconds!  (runs for 5, 
off
> for 5)
>  
> I KNOW that the fan is not right.....or at least I think so. 
>  
> Can you offer any advise (dont ask me to check pressure, etc..  I 
dont
> have the equipment/knowledge to do so)
>  
> I just picked the car up today from the shop (had A/C done about a 
week
> ago, and had to bring it back due to the fact that the oraphus tube 
was
> not sitting right and had to be fixed)
>  
> Please provide any insight as to what is normal, or what I should do 
to
> take care of these issues.
>  
> THANKS!!!
>  
> Kevin Abato
> Vin# 16680
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 15:08:59 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Stuck Door

Have Patience! (spelling again)   It may only be stuck. You have to 
work on the inside, pulling the rods while an assistant tries to lift 
open the door. Many times a stuck door is jammed on the latch pins, 
the locks aren't holding it closed as much as it is jammed onto 
improperly adjusted anchor pins. As soon as you get it open inspect 
how the door closes and the locks capture on the anchor pins.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I still can't get my driver's door open.  I have tried messing with 
the rods 
> and everything, and nothing works.  I'm at the point now where I am 
thinking 
> of drilling out the old latch assembly from the inside.  Has anyone 
tried this 
> before?
> 
> Thanks
>   Willie
>   Vin 5043




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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 11:21:18 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: Correct replica Flux Capacitor for sale!

  Hello all. After seeing talk of the flux capacitor. I thought I'd offer the one I made for sale. My flux capacitor is 95% correct to the movie, lights up and flashes correctly too. I spent many many hours researching the prop and the movie to get this correct. It runs off of your cigarette lighter and draws such low current you could probaly leave it on all night and not drain the battery too much. It is the correct dimensions and is even better than the ones at universal studios on display. If anyone is interested I will send you pictures as soon as I can. But I will warn you that I am going to put it on ebay soon and I expect it to go for a hefty sum, so I suggest if you are interested e-mail me.

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu


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