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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1163
Date: Saturday, August 17, 2002 4:29 PM

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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....

2. RE: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....
From: "IN2TIME" <>

3. HP Coils and Grounds
From: "IN2TIME" <>

4. Water pump woes?
From: Andrew <>

5. Re: Re: Stuck Door

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 11:46:23 EDT
Subject: Re: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....

Kevin, I would up the idle to about 900 to 950 and then may consider 
replacing the alternator. The are some other things you can do to enhance the 
electrics in the car to keep the lights from dimming and things going dead.
John hervey


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 10:51:30 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <>
Subject: RE: I finally have A/C, but dont think it is working 100%....

When ideling, with A/C on, my car blows cold, BUT the voltage DROPS down
to about 9 volts

This could be any of a number of problems, but assuming that your
voltmeter is working reasonable well... I would do the following.

Check to see if having the blower on high and putting your high-beams on
makes as big a difference in the displayed voltage as having the A/C on
with the heater fan on low. 

If everything makes the voltage drop significantly, check the battery
and dash grounds for corrosion and tightness.  You can also have the
battery and alternator checked out the results can be misleading if
there are other problems.

If the Radiator A/C fans are the biggest problem, check that they rotate
freely. Be careful that they don't come on while checking them. Check
their connections and grounds.  

My fan kicks on and off every 5 seconds!
If the A/C compressor clutch is also cycling on and off at the same
rate, this could be marginally OK.  You may need slightly more Freon
charge. Cycling every 7 to 10 seconds is considered "normal" for a

If the fans are cycling while the A/C compressor clutch is still
engaged, the circuit breaker might be part of the cycling problem, which
leads you back to troubleshooting why the fans are drawing so much

Last week we discussed cleaning up and/or upgrading the relays and
circuit breakers, but you need to find the problems first, not cover
them up.



Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 11:52:01 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <>
Subject: HP Coils and Grounds

Since High Performance Coils and Grounds have been brought up in the
past, I know I'm at risk of this being a "Me Too" post. I just wanted to
share my own "discoveries" during a recent PNDC Tech session (which I
hosted at my home in Kirkland Washington).

I didn't really have any "significant" problems, but sometimes things
didn't always "seem" to be running "perfectly". Occasional rough idle,
occasional minor difficulty starting, wishing I had a bit more power,
etc. I would do a tune-up and things might be a bit better, but still
not "perfect"...

I knew that loose grounds can cause all kinds of problems, so I started
looking for any that I hadn't yet discovered. I discovered two grounding
points in my coil box (the triangular thingy in the front passenger side
of the engine compartment). The one with several thick brown ground
wires was fine. The other one was slightly snug, but I could turn the
lug by hand. 

Since I had removed the stock coil to clean up and tighten the loose
ground, I put in a new MSD Blaster 2 Coil (MSD 8202 - $35.99).  

Something made an immediately noticeable difference! For a car that
always seemed to run "good", I was surprised by the improvement.
Smoother acceleration, more low-end torque, still having power to spare
at redline, able to accelerate (some :-) in 5th gear!!!!!

WOW! Maybe I'll actually be able to tow that motor home on my IN2TIME
Towing Website :-)

I suspect that the coil had a lot more to do with the improvement than
the slightly loose ground, but I don't have free access to a dyno.
Without quantitative results, I'm not sure I want to just "feel" how
much difference there is with the old coil back in. 

Sooooooo, If you want your car to "feel" like it has an "extra" 10+
usable HP, try a high performance coil - and check those grounds!!!

Speaking of Grounds... Can anyone provide (or point me to) a
comprehensive list of grounding locations?  I've probably run into all
of them, but I really want to re-check them all to make sure.  



Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 15:04:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <>
Subject: Water pump woes?

Recently I encountered my first oveheat problem, so I figured I'd probably
let the coolant level in my tank get too low and sucked up some air.
Following a procedure discussed here numerous times, I attached a rubber
hose to the nipple on the bleeder screw, started the car, let it warm up,
then loosened the screw to let air out.  To my surprise, nothing came out
at all.  I loosened the screw to the point of removing it entirely.
Nothing.  No water, no air.

The belt is definitely on and appropriately tight.

Is there something else I should be checking, or is my water pump history?

 Houston TX


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 16:26:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Stuck Door

have you tried using a pry bar between the bottom of the door and the rocker 
it worked for me.

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