From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1165
Date: Monday, August 19, 2002 5:43 PM

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There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. LED Questions
From: "mikedagoon" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>

2. Re: Stuck Door
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Bizarre electrical problem
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Arm Rest Removal
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

5. Delorean sighting at Jones Beach in NY
From: "slider10" <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Arm Rest Removal
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002
From: Bob <cap1ltgregor_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: Re: Water pump woes?
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

10. Living the Dream and letting the Dream live On
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

11. Any DML'er in the area of LAX...
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

12. RE: Re: Fw: oil pressure
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

13. Flux Capacitor replica for sale!
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

14. Re: Starting help
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Stuck Door
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

16. Re: Arm Rest Removal
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 20:04:17 -0000
From: "mikedagoon" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: LED Questions

Hello, to everyone who is interested in the LED thread.

Tomorrow there will be a representative from LEDtronics coming to our 
shop. He will be bringing us some LED samples.
This visit was not DeLorean related, it's for our military cars.
But, as long as he's there, is there anyone who would like me to ask 
any questions for you.
 I will compare LEDtronics and Jamstraits LED'S.

E-mail me privately with you questions.
mquinto(at)attbi.com

Regards,
Mike




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 16:34:39 EDT
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Stuck Door

Well common sense would tell you how much force to put on the door and not 
damage it. The door is not stuck it is jammed and a little presure will be 
enough to pop it open.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:12:27 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Bizarre electrical problem

With the lid off, it's difficult to pull the contacts apart, but the instant they're
apart, there's no force pulling them back together. There's definitely a leak somewhere,
but I'm not involved at the moment - #2727 is back with Rich and I'm busy on #1458 right
now.

Thanks for the input

Martin
#1458

dherv10_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Martin, Take out the main relay and hook it up to a bench power supply, and
> while it's hooked up turn the power supply off. The coil will let go but
> sometimes the contacts won't for a second or two. And it's not because they
> are burn't. I'm not an engineer, but this has puzzled me for a while. There
> is so much capacity in the circuit, I think it's whats holding the contacts
> together till it can bleed of.???
> What do you or someone else thinks.
> John hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 19:47:17 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Arm Rest Removal

What specific tool set up do I need to get at the bolts to remove the
armrests from the door?  I'm trying to remove my solenoids so I can
replace them.   I got everything off and got down to all the armrest
bolts out and it wouldn't come off....I then spied the 2 bolts hiding
inside.  I'm tool-handicapped and don't have many.

Any other tricks or advise would be appreciated.  Are there anymore
hiding in there??? : -)     I'm going to get the whole LockZilla set up
from Rob with the remote control lock/unlock.    I should wait until the
launch kit is available but I'm not very patient...oh well.

Thanks

Tom
#05732




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 00:09:56 -0000
From: "slider10" <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean sighting at Jones Beach in NY

My mom saw a Delorean in the parking lot of Tobay beach here on LI.  
It had the plate HEDATIME.  Anyone on this list?

Thanks!

-Aaron Crocco




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:41:18 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Arm Rest Removal

I think all you really need to get the bolts of death out is a long 
extension, a ratchet, and a 10 mm socket. Putting it back in is a different 
story though-a lot harder to get in. Some guys use tape to adhere the bolt to 
the socket so it won't drop. I actually went and bought a slightly longer 
bolt so I could control it better to get it into place. 

Those two bolts have to be two of the hardest bolts on the entire car. If 
not, tell me where not to go.

John
4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 07:27:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002

To reiterate and add to what Chuck said . . . the size IS unbelievable. Close to
if not over 16 miles of bumper to bumper fun! North bound on Woodward Ave was an
average speed of 2mph-3mph while southbound was 25mph - 40mph. It was neat being
behind Tom and Chuck to hear people's comments about the Ds. Most were positive
on how cool the cars were and "you don't see them anymore". Only a few smart
mouths made cocaine jokes but I set them straight with the PA on my CB. ( My
friend in his Vette behind me didn't get to hear those comments because after
that the people were too busy laughing at my car. I replaced the grill of my Ford
Festiva with sharp teeth and taped over the lights to form eyes. Since it is
yellow with a CB antenna people were calling it the Killer Bee. )  Cameras were
snapping everywhere and the DeLoreans were one of the few cars people  poped up
out of their chairs to take pictures of. 

We only saw two other DeLoreans there. One was at 11mile _at_dml_ 4:30pm with only the
passenger door up. The other one a woman was driving. Anybody else on the DML
make it down with their D? Eric G? John (ViperJS)? Marvin Stein - did you go
100miles to the show or to the yacht?

It was also great to meet DMLer James LaLonde for dinner at the Crackerbarrel.
Next time make sure you get that day off so you can go to the cruise!

All in all it was a great day and plenty of great cars were out. No car trouble
or accidents during our trip all though we did see a General Lee replica spill
coolant and heard of an old lady turning into a T-Bucket - OUCH.
Eventhough the Killer Bee was a crowd pleaser I will finally have my D next year
and will be driving that instead!

Shannon Y
VIN#  < [less than] 10 months to go


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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 01:37:02 -0000
From: "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002

<snip>
the size of this thing is its unbelievable..
<snip>

If you wanna witness something truly special, make plans for next 
years event, you won't believe it!! We need to show them all the 
Deloreans we can!!

Chuck Darling
Vin#6125

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 06:39:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob <cap1ltgregor_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002


I live right in the area BUT my wife was afraid the heat would be too much on the car!
I have wanted to go for 3 years.  We don't drive the car much.  It has 18334 original miles today.  #3462
Bob
 beatlesra1 wrote:Hi Everyone,
We just got back from the Woodward Ave Dream Cruise in Detroit MI and 
what a day it was! They say there was 2,000,000 people there and 
about 100,000 cars!!! the size of this thing is its unbelievable..My 
Delorean and Tom Wilke's were very,very well received as we were 
stopped numerous times for photo ops and questions[we even made it on 
the radio!].

If you wanna witness something truly special, make plans for next 
years event, you won't believe it!! We need to show them all the 
Deloreans we can!!

Chuck Darling
Vin#6125





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---------------------------------
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HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:17:26 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Water pump woes?

I often hear about how someone's car got low on coolant and "got a bit
hot".  They put some water in the overflow tank and the next time they
drive the car, it overheats again, and again, and again. Often they
explain that "at least the gage never got above XXX degrees".  If they
eventually get all of the air out "it works fine". If not, they take it
to a repair shop for a new water pump, or radiator, or engine. If the
shop knows what they are doing, they get all of the air out too, and "it
works fine".

I've always wanted to explain what "really" happens when a DeLorean gets
air-locked, but I never put the required time into it - until now. 

I've decided to call this: 

 "Memoirs of a DeLorean Cooling System"

For some "unknown" reason, your DeLorean gets really low on coolant.
 - With that shiny new Overflow Tank you need x-ray vision - Right?
You add a mix of water and antifreeze to the Coolant Overflow Tank.
 - You didn't really fill the system - just the Tank and a hose.
At this point, you think the system is full and you drive the car.
 - The system didn't really fill up, because the air couldn't get out.
The pump outlet has a circuit to send "coolant" through the engine.
 - It's not a good air pump - but air won't cool the engine anyway.
Some engine-heated coolant/air gets pumped to the Heater Core.
 - This is a downhill path - Air tends to rise in coolant - Hmmm.
There is a "T" in this circuit to purge air to the Overflow Tank.
 - But the "T" is down in front of the heads - not a high point.
If it's really hot out, you've set the A/C Mode Switch to Max A/C.
 - In the Max A/C mode, you don't get this flow - or the purging.
The pump also has to push the coolant/air through the thermostat.
 - But the thermostat is initially closed - for quick "warm-ups" :)
The main flow starts when the thermostat opens (at about 160 degrees).
 - Cross your fingers - Air won't conduct much heat to the thermostat.
Now the engine coolant/air mixes with coolant/air from the radiator.
 - I hope you're beginning to see the pattern developing here.
The pump tries to push the coolant/air DOWN past the thermostat switch.
 - If the switch doesn't get hot (and close), the fan doesn't run.
The coolant/air is pumped to the front - to the top of the radiator. 
 - Now, the radiator is also air-bound - and works rather poorly.
The coolant exits the bottom of the radiator through a big hose.
 - From here the coolant goes to a "Y" under the spare tire.
The air tries to exit the top of the radiator through a small hose.
 - At least the designer didn't expect the air to go out the bottom.
Perhaps I spoke too soon. The small hose leads downward to the "Y"
 - What law of physics is going to force the air down the hose?
Just then you head down a steep hill - and hear a gurgling sound.
 - A big bubble of air is now racing back to the pump and engine. 
Eventually the coolant/air reaches the "Y" to the Overflow Tank.
 - If any air gets past the "Y", the pump sucks it up and tries again.
Air getting to the Overflow Tank is replaced by coolant - maybe.
 - When the quart or two of coolant is used up, you pump air again.
Note: The Temperature Gage Sending Unit is on top of the engine. 
 - It may only tell you is how hot the air is - not the coolant.
But by this time, the 280F engine coolant has turned into steam.
 - The actual temperature depends on coolant mixture and cap pressure.
Stem pressure blows any remaining coolant out of the overflow tank.
 - As the system, and your temper, cool off - air gets sucked back in.

Since you've read this far, you probably want to know the moral of the
story.  Right?  Well, there are several:

 - The bleeder won't bleed until the engine temp is 160F.
 - Even then, it can only bleed what is at the top of the engine.
 - Air in the rest of the system eventually gets back to the engine.
 - Jacking up the back of the car can help get the air to the engine.
 - Install a continuous air-bleed bypass - they really do work!
 - The bypass purges the air to the tank when the water reaches 160F.
   (If you tap it in just below the thermostat, it always purges :)
 - Without one, the Overflow Tank doesn't indicate the "system" level.
 - Even with a bypass, you still have to check the Overflow Tank level.
 - If the system needs frequent addition of coolant, fix the leaks.

But those are just my opinions, and I could be wrong :)

Gary
www.IN2TIME.com





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 03:11:01 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Living the Dream and letting the Dream live On

I recieved this email Saturday,and I am quite amazed,how with todays 
technoligies,I could be/or others could be in touch with the owners 
of one of my previous Deloreans from 1988 !! 
So far there was the orignal owner(which I contacted) then "Me"   
Then the person I sold it to, Then the owner in NYC (which I 
contacted) Then 16686 was bought and shipped to Great Britian,which I 
found who that buyer was and contacted him.(it was sold on Ebay)Now 
the latest Buyer Contacted me.  Amazing that this goes back to 
1988 !! I was just wondering if instead of fixing 16686 I used it for 
parts,how different,the lives of the owners after me would be, past 
and present.. All I can say is try to keep in contact with the next 
generation of owners of your Delorean,once the time comes,to sell 
your Delorean,you will be amazed where your Delorean ends up,as of 
now there are TWO of my past Deloreans roaming around in Europe !! 
JZD's Dream of Living the Dream is still Living and being enjoyed by 
the next Generation.
Live the Dream and let it live On!!

Claude
000570     
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart Alexander" <stuartalexander>
To: <cbl302_at_dml_msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 11:46 AM
Subject: DeLorean vin 16686


> Hi,
> 
> I hope you don't mind me contacting you but I have recently 
purchased a 1983 
> DeLorean with vin # 16686 and believe you have owned the car in the 
past.  I 
> live in the UK where I bought the car from Mike Norwood who 
explained to me 
> what he knew about the car's history (ie. the accident repair) 
before I 
> bought it.  He also gave me your name.
> 
> Mike said that you have a video of the repairs you carried out to 
the car 
> (in 1987 I believe?).  I would be very interested to see a copy of 
this if 
> possible and hear any other information you may have on 16686.
> 
> The car has now covered 42000 miles and is in pretty good condition 
apart 
> from some chassis rust.  I'm very pleased with it and have just 
returned 
> from a 2000 mile trip around France with no problems.  I hope to 
keep the 
> car for a long time as owning a DeLorean has always been a dream of 
mine!
> 
> I look forward to hearing from you,
> 
> Stuart Alexander
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 08:31:14 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Any DML'er in the area of LAX...

...able to check out a car for me personally? Car is in Harbor City...please
email me privately for details. Thanks!

James




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:40:08 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fw: oil pressure

Mine did the same thing. I replaced the sender for about $40 and it reads
perfectly.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tmpintnl [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 8:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Fw: oil pressure
> 
> Bob - It is more than likely a bad sending unit.  I damaged mine
> during an oil filter change, and it "pegs" with the engine running.  I
> know that my pressures are correct.  There are several replacement
> senders that are advertised as being "more accurate" than the original
> sender.  Most vendors have them available.  The sending unit for the
> gauge is next to the oil filter.  The sending unit for the idiot light
> is on the opposite side, just behind the A/C compressor.  If the idiot
> light is functional, it *should* show a real problem if you have one.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Bob wrote:
> 
> > I have had my 1981 Delorean since 1999 and have noticed that the oil
> pressure is maxing out past 80psi.!  The car has 18000 original miles
> and I have changed the oil regularly.  When I first got the car I
> warmed it up then changed the oil.  Then I ran it 100 miles and
> changed it again.  It seems to be flowing through the engine alright
> but it worries me.  Could it just be a bad sensor?  Bob
> >




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 00:45:54 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: Flux Capacitor replica for sale!

I have received much response to my flux capacitor that is for sale. I will have the pictures of it on the net this week. I will say however that it is VERY close to the movie and people go nuts over it. It certainly is fun when someone says where the flux capacitor and you can say " It's right here, take a look" They then procede to freak out or you get people that come up to see the car go holy crap it has the flux capacitor! Anyway, as far as price, due to the fact that it requires lots of time consuming hand workmanship, wiring, and electrical work. The price range will most likely be between $250-$450. If you decide you want one, I am going back to college in middle of September so you better order it soon after you see the pictures.

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 07:34:54 EDT
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Starting help

I ordered a warm up regulator just to replace it and take it out of the mix 
and I also am going to replace the gas filter 
but its weird get it to run for about a minute and it is absoultely perfect.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:48:24 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck Door

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I still can't get my driver's door open.  I have tried messing with 
the rods 
> and everything, and nothing works.  I'm at the point now where I am 
thinking 
> of drilling out the old latch assembly from the inside.  Has anyone 
tried this 
> before?
> 
> Thanks
>   Willie
>   Vin 5043

Hi Willie.

It sounds frustrating.  I'd be eyeballing my hammer as the tool of 
choice by now, I'm sure (just kidding).  If you can wait a day, 
before drilling, I'll root around inside my door to come up with a 
troubleshooting sequence.  If it were my car, I would not drill out 
the latch or use force unless there were no alternatives.  You 
mentioned in your first post that the rear latch works okay, and that 
the door clears the rear pin.  How did you determine that the door 
clears the pin?  Did you pull on the door with the front latch stuck 
closed?  

What have you removed so far from the inside of the door to get at 
the linkage?

It's easy to tell whether the door is just a little jammed.  I doubt 
it is.  To test the theory that the door is just jammed, you can 
manipulate the latch rods inside the car, while having someone else 
gently lift the door from the outside, from the bottom of the door, 
not the handle, which breaks off easily.  You can also do this alone 
by reaching in the open window to manipulate the rods, while 
simultaneously lifting the door.

I suspect that the latch is still in fact closed, as if it were 
locked ,and that we haven't figured out yet exactly what is wrong 
with the linkage.

Rick Gendreau




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:48:59 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Arm Rest Removal

actually I used the same bolts and bought a tool from your local auto parts
place that is specially designed to hold a bolt in place to your
screwdriver.  It costs under a dollar and I remember that it was Philips
head, my original bolt. HMMMMMM

Joseph Molino
----- Original Message -----
From: <BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Arm Rest Removal


> I think all you really need to get the bolts of death out is a long
> extension, a ratchet, and a 10 mm socket. Putting it back in is a
different
> story though-a lot harder to get in. Some guys use tape to adhere the bolt
to
> the socket so it won't drop. I actually went and bought a slightly longer
> bolt so I could control it better to get it into place.
>
> Those two bolts have to be two of the hardest bolts on the entire car. If
> not, tell me where not to go.
>
> John
> 4275
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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