From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1172
Date: Sunday, August 25, 2002 3:07 PM

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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Dash Board grounding points
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>

2. Re: Flux Capacitor
From: Robert Brandys <>

3. Re: Led Update

4. 5386 Restoration site is now up!
From: "delorean_stainless" <>

5. New owner (was: Hi My name is Avi Sarfaraz.)
From: "cyberzechidna" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 19:51:40 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>
Subject: Re: Dash Board grounding points

One of the most important grounding points for the electrical system 
(and the one that will affect the gauges) is located on the frame in 
the front. Jack up the car, pull off the front left wheel and you will 
see it directly inside on top of the frame behind the horn. Remove all 
of the wires and clean everything including the point on the frame 
where they are attached and the bolt. Twitching of the gauges could 
also be caused by any loose or intermittant connection in the wiring 
system feeding the gauges. Check the terminals on the battery, the 
tension on the alternater belt and all of the "big" connections from 
the battery to the starter and the alternater. If this doesn't do it 
you may have to tear out the binnacle and find the loose plug or 
connection causing the problem. The "twitching" could be a sign of 
larger problems in your electrical system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:
> Hello List - Somewhere in the back of my mind, I recall seeing 
> information regarding the electrical grounding points for the dash 
> instruments, etc.  I couldn't readily find the information, so I'm 
> asking for it now.  I have some "twitching" of gauges that suggest 
> intermittent ground fault to me.  I thought that the first 
> appropriate action would be to verify and tighten all applicable 
> grounds, and then work from there if that doesn't resolve the issue. 
> Many thanks!
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 15:08:18 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <>
Subject: Re: Flux Capacitor

JC WHitney sell the rubber seal for the plexiglass window. Much less 
expense.  That's what I used.  The NEMA enclosure from McMaster Carr is 
a standard size.  Numerous electrical supply companies have the same 
size part with similar pricing.


mikedagoon wrote:

>Hello List,
>I was in the middle of making a flux capacitor awhile back myself.
>But, I was sidetracked and never finished it.
>Since this subject came up I would like to share where I purchased my
>electrical enclosure box from. It looks very similar to the one in 
>the film. 
>Except it didn't have the window. You have to cut it out yourself.
>And buy a piece of plexiglass. And the rubber trim is from a Jeep's 
>windshield which can be purchased from your local auto store or Jeep 
>This might be a cheaper but more realistic looking approach for the 
>do it yourselfer.
>If and when I do finish mine, I will post pics and give a list of 
>parts and sources I used.
>McMaster Carr Part #7847K15 Price was $51.91 Dimensions 12"x10"x5"
>The Pics are in the photo section under Flux Capacitor.
>Good luck and have fun building it.
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 20:51:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Led Update

If you are looking for the absolute most bang for the LED buck, check out the 
Japanese Nichia 5mm LEDs. They are incredibly bright and there are Chinese 
knock-offs that are very close but much more cost effective. Our factory uses 
about 80 million Led's a year and have found the 11 Candella high bright 
Chinese knock-offs to be pretty good. You can power them to about 60ma 
without frying them. The Nichia's are about 80 Cents and the Knock-off's are 
anout 20 cents in white.

Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
15779 & 3356


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 14:30:01 -0000
From: "delorean_stainless" <>
Subject: 5386 Restoration site is now up!

Hello Everyone,

I'm pleased to announce that my restoration site dedicated to Vin 5386 
is now up and active. The site is dedicated to the restoration of my 
DeLorean Vin5386. I am doing a complete restoration and this site will 
document the entire process with pics and dialoge. Right now the site 
contains only basic information and a handfull of pics but as things 
progress I will eventually add a "Parts for sale" and "Parts Needed" 
Pages. also a "Link page" is up and coming as well as a possible "Q&A 
Page". A "Video" page will also be in the works when things get to 
that stage.

Please check my page out for up to the minute pics of this restoration 
as they happen. 

When I was looking to purchase my D these type of pages were a great 
help to me in actually "seeing" what I was about to get into. Hope I 
can give back to the DML News group now.

Please let me know what you think. This is my labour of love.

Thanks again Rich, Fred and Eric for all your wisdom and help over the 
past year.



Message: 5
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 14:50:06 -0000
From: "cyberzechidna" <>
Subject: New owner (was: Hi My name is Avi Sarfaraz.)

I am a new Delorean Owner, Well, My Family owns the Delorean, 
because im too "legaly" young to own it. But Im paying for it. Im 
the to-be Owner of Delorean DMC-12 Vin#1930, Black Leather Interior 
and Automatic Transmission. 

I What About the DMC-2? Whats going to happen about it? The Delorean 
Time Website is Inactive! Does any1 know anything new? Any Inside 

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The DMC-2 thread has been around for a long time and there has been a lot of discussion on it in the past. DMC-2 responses based on speculation rather than information will be dropped.]


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