From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1173
Date: Monday, August 26, 2002 4:28 PM

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Led Web site
From: "mikedagoon" <>

2. RE: Cooper GT Tires
From: "Rob van der Veer" <>

3. Re: Delorean Project car.

4. problems solved with the 5386 Restoration site.
From: "delorean_stainless" <>

5. ignition keys cut to code
From: "K Creason" <>

6. Flashing sidelights (and other mods)
From: "content22207" <>

7. Re: DeLoreanTime Still Up & Running! (was: Avi Sarfaraz & New Owner)
From: Robert Greenhaw <>

8. Re: Cooper GT Tires

9. Plans for the 25th Aniversery of DeLorean
From: "treehouse2000us" <>

10. DeLorean Renting
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>

11. Time Machine Journal
From: Travis Goodwin <>

12. Wiper control module service procedure (also hazard flasher and buzzer box)
From: "ksgrimsr" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:19:06 -0000
From: "mikedagoon" <>
Subject: Led Web site

Sorry, I forgot to post the web sit for you guys.
Maybe someone out there is familiar with this company (Luks).



Message: 2
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 22:35:35 +0200
From: "Rob van der Veer" <>
Subject: RE: Cooper GT Tires

I only can tell you that when I wanted to buy those tires, somebody advised
me not to do so for a DeLorean. They're great tires for American cars like
buicks and such, but not for a D. Don't ask me why, but that guy had bad
experiences with the road handling with those tires on.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: beatlesra1 []
> Sent: woensdag 21 augustus 2002 3:11
> To:
> Subject: [DML] Cooper GT Tires
> I know this has been beat to death but I need new tires now! I'm
> lucky my Delorean is in one piece, I developed a leak during the
> Dream Cruise last weekend which I discovered showing Shannon my new
> tire gauge, well I took the tire off today and found one hellava gash
> on the inside of the back tire very lucky it didn't blow [Since i
> drive my D the way it was intended... FAST] WHOAA!!!
> Anyway I'd like to buy Cooper GT's so please if anyone is using them
> e-mail me and give me your opinion also can the back tires be bought
> in blackwalls or are they only available in White Raised Letters?
> Thanks for your help!
> Chuck Darling
> Vin#6215
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 17:39:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Delorean Project car.

Group, Before I part it out or put it on Ebay, I thought I would let the 
group know that 3738, Sept. 81, Blk interior, Automatic, runs, rib hood, is 
on the front page of my web site. If you want to know more about it. Either 
call or email.
John Hervey 


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 21:58:03 -0000
From: "delorean_stainless" <>
Subject: problems solved with the 5386 Restoration site.

Hello Everyone,

I'd like to apoligize, apprently yahoo geocities was locking people 
out due to band with on my site. so I moved the entire site off of 
there to a new location and did a little revamping. I found out 2 of 
the pages were not linked to the pics pages. If anyone finds a dead 
link or some type of error please by all means write me and let me 
know of it so I can correct it as fast as possible. Also the link 
wasn't actually linked last time so here is the link again. Hope I got 
it right this time :D

Please enjoy the site. I love working on my car and shareing my dream 
with other people. 



Message: 5
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 19:47:58 -0500
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: ignition keys cut to code

Hey all-
I've set up an auction for a service that I will eventually make available
to all-- new keys cut to your lock code.

They're just simple blanks-- kind of a small head, not the replica rubber
heads from Houston or anything-- though I can do those too, on request.
I'm kind of using the auction as to a guide as to price this service for
y'all. I'll run a couple and see what kind of problems I run in to before
open it up and say "bring it on". The problems I'm expecting-- are changed
locks (or doors), locks too worn to work on original key depths, and that 1%
of the population that is out to swindle everyone.

I am locksmith in a former livelihood; I mainly decided to get back into
this because I did not see that anyone was offering this service to our
community and I myself needed a new (original depth) key.

Respond privately; or publicly if it enriches the group[(s) :-( ]



Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 02:52:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Flashing sidelights (and other mods)

Distributor cap is still trapping water, but the great side & tail
light mods are complete:

I highly recommend wiring sidelights into flasher circuits.
Indications during lane changes etc totally unmistakable. I wired both
amber and red lenses for symmetry. Front harness is very accessible if
you remove headlight buckets.

Swapped positions 3 and 2 & 4 between brake and tail lights. Again,
difference is startling (tail light illumination increased 100%). Went
to some trouble to double positions 2 & 4 as brake lights too, then
decided combo looked stupid (reflective position 3 is too different
from its neighbors). Will live off single brake lights until ordered
third brake light arrives. Type 89 bulbs in positions 2 & 4 do not
seem to produce enough heat to damage  the housing.

I think the reason headlight dash switches are melting is full side
and tail light amperage passes through. Having resurrected mine, I
inserted a relay into the circuit to prevent future meltdown. Also
separated from fuse 8 (2 and 8 are now mirrors of one another -- much
more logical). This was a prime time to move A/C panel illumination
from the ignition circuit, BTW.
Now, does anybody have any idea how long it will take to extricate the
electrical distributor...

Bill Robertson


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 23:49:13 -0500
From: Robert Greenhaw <>
Subject: Re: DeLoreanTime Still Up & Running! (was: Avi Sarfaraz & New Owner)

Hey Guys,

I just checked out the site, it's working fine...perhaps
someone was checking for bugs or prepping it for some

Robert G.


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 04:46:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Cooper GT Tires

Hi Rob,
Thanks for the reply, I put the GT's on and so far so good, they handle and 
ride very ,very well and I drove em in the rain last week for shits and grins 
and they never slipped so I'm happy with them so far.

Thanks Again,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 12:24:38 -0000
From: "treehouse2000us" <>
Subject: Plans for the 25th Aniversery of DeLorean

Offically, the DeLorean will be an antique in the year 2006.  I 
recently wrote about building a totaly new car out of parts.  What 
would be a better way to honor the man who created the best 
automobile ever?

Lamborgini loved the Countauge so much they built a 25th aniversery 
edition.  However, building more than one such car would depleat the 
already scarce part storehouse we have preserved to keep our cars 
going with.  If this project does indeed get off the ground, I have 
picked an appropriate vin (at least I think so).  The new car would 
be 50501.  However, the only thing better than building a new car is 
to see John honnored for his truely amazing accomplishment.

Tommy Porter


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 16:38:41 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <>
Subject: DeLorean Renting

Hello all,
I've been approached by an ad firm that wants to use my DeLorean as the actual BTTF DeLorean to promote the release of the BTTF Trilogy on DVD.

So - for all of those who have "been there, done that"...

How much money did you get for renting out your DeLorean? What can be expected? 
The way I see it, it has to be "worth it". Sure, I can rent my DeLorean for free, but since this is backed by Universal and they want the car, I'm sure they have some money to spend on the promotion.

They plan to rent it for 1 1/2 month!!! And they will trailer it across Norway.

No problems with the insurance, but what other things should I be considering?

Best wishes :)

Stian Birkeland

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 10:40:07 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <>
Subject: Time Machine Journal

Just a quick note to everyone that wants to follow my progress as I convert
my car in time for the 2002 EuroFest at the BMW Manufacturing plant in
Greer, SC. I am going to discuss every step in gruesome detail so you can
follow along.

This conversion will be:

1) inexpensive.
2) non-permanent, easily removed and stored.
3) incomplete (meaning I will leave some details off).
4) my own interpretation.
5) interesting to say the least.

So far I have done a small flux capacitor (made out of LEDs) and I'm about
3/4 through my Mr. Fusion (made out of PVC pipe and a Diaper Genie).

Make sure you check back every week to see if I've lost a finger!


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 15:11:08 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <>
Subject: Wiper control module service procedure (also hazard flasher and buzzer box)

Notice: This message contains informative content based on first-hand experience rather than speculation and conjecture.

I had occasion to remove my wiper control module the other day (after 
150K miles in Oregon rain, the relay contacts were finally too 
carbonized to make good electrical contact). The service manual 
instructions for this procedure reads something like "remove 2 screws 
securing module." Although the service manual is correct that the 
module is secured with 2 screws, the instructions trivialize the 
procedure and are wholly unhelpful if you actually find you need to 
remove the module.

After having removed my module, I thought I would share the simplest 
procedure for doing so. This procedure applies to the winshield wiper 
control module, the hazard flasher unit, and the buzzer box which are 
all mounted to the same sub-panel. The panel is mounted above the 
steering column under the dash on the driver's side.

Step 0 (optional): If you have a large frame and find the driver's 
footwell to be a tight squeeze, remove the driver's seat. I'm small-
framed (although reasonably tall) and found no reason to remove the 
seat, but for someone that is large framed, removal of the seat gives 
you a lot more maneuvering room.

Step 1: Remove the rubber gasket from around the dashboard air duct 
that mates with the door duct when the door is closed.

Step 2: Remove the plastic air duct trim piece and retainer that the 
rubber gasket was attached to. Over the years the plastic has become 
brittle, so removal of the plastic piece must be done with care. 
There are 2 tabs on the plastic piece that must released slightly in 
order to allow the piece to be removed.

Step 3: Remove the round duct that was attached to the plastic 
retainer and trim piece. With the trim piece removed there is 
sufficient play to allow removal of the round duct.

Step 4: Working underneath the dash, locate the plastic duct that 
connects from the central console area to the round duct just 
removed. The plastic duct is held in place with a U bracket that is 
secured with two screws. Remove the two screws and the U bracket.

Step 5: Working underneath the dash, release the plastic duct from 
the console side and remove the plastic duct by threading it out 
towards the driver's side of the footwell.

Step 6: Working underneath the dash, the subpanel is now accessible. 
The subpanel is located above the steering column and is accessible 
from the driver's side. The subpanel is snapped in place using clips 
and the entire panel can be removed by pulling it loose. There is 
sufficient slack in the wiring harness that the panel can be pulled 
free and brought down into the footwell.

Step 7: With the panel hanging in the footwell, the wiring harness 
connectors can be removed and the entire panel freed.

Step 8: NOW you can remove the wiper control module by unscrewing the 
two screws that secure it to the subpanel (as indicated in the 
service manual).

I hope someone might find this helpful.



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