From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1175
Date: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 6:39 PM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement - forgot something
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement - forgot something else
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
From: TheStash <TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net>

5. PRV V6
From: "pugrambo_au" <pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au>

6. automatic governor
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

7. Cooling fan rewire update
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

8. Exhaust manifold gasket replacement
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

9. Re: PRV V6
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:17:58 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement

Hi Scott

Indeed he is, though they're made to order so expect a little wait (took mine two weeks).
He accepts paypal and the cost including shipping is $90 (bargain IMO). Ed had a stall at
Memphis showing off his brake conversion too.

http://www.dmc-service.nl/

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458

Scott Mueller wrote:

> You referred to a cat converter bypass pipe.
> We call those a Cat test pipe.
> Is Ed Uding selling these?  I would be interested in obtaining a test pipe
> for Off-Road use only.




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:33:31 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement - forgot something

When undoing stubborn nuts (particularly the exhaust manifold nuts) regularly check if
the nut/stud you are undoing is getting hot. If it is, let it cool and move onto the next
one. The studs are much more likely to shear as they get hot

(thanks to my mate Si "Skyline" Harrison for all the advice - his car:
www.cix.co.uk/~mgutkowski/sisky.jpg - 400hp from a 1986 2.0 litre single turbo - he thinks the PRV is pathetic)

Martin
#1458



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:42:25 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement - forgot something else

ACK! Should have re-read it five times instead of only four....

To remove the upper left cat mounting nut, you have to unscrew the lambda sensor, which
requires a 22mm spanner.

Martin





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:42:07 -0400
From: TheStash <TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.

Hi All,
I was searching the archives for the loss of power condition my D is
experiencing and I found this: (cut from the original note by James LaLonde
<krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>)

"every morning when i start her for the first time,
my delorean is a little hesitant. If I gun it or right
when i let the clutch back out between gears she
stutters and doesn't want to go.
Also... nearly all the time, there are spurts when
she's not as peppy-  kinda just sluggish (like
couldn't out-race a pinto kinda sluggish)." <end of cut>

My car does the exact same thing. I don't think it's the fuel pump or
ignition because both of those were replaced by PJ Grady in February. He did
a full tune-up. I bought the car from Rob but I'd like to see if I can
trouble shoot it myself because I'm sure he's tired of my phone calls.
Although he'd never admit it. :)

The condition is getting worse. I get passed by trucks up hills.

After reading John hervey's response below I looked in the shop manuals for
the "warm up regulator" and don't see any reference to one. Could he mean
the "control pressure regulator"?

While looking around I notice a wire that was dangling at the front of the
engine (near the distributor -- I assume that's called the front). It has a
white two prong plug with three wires going to it. A fairly heavy gauge
black wire to one side and two lesser gauge black wires with blue stripes
going to the other. After a long hard look I found what looks like it's mate
tightly wire tied to a bundle of wires at the firewall. Do you think I
should plug them together? They look like they've been apart for some time.
I'm about to check my manuals to see if I can find out what they are all
about.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,

Tony Pistachio
#10781 STSSTEEL
Wappingers Falls, NY




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 05:29:44 -0000
From: "pugrambo_au" <pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au>
Subject: PRV V6

hello
i am new to this group but have a similar interest in the PRV engine 
as i own 604 peugeots
did the delorean ever have the odd fire engine or were they all the 
even fire engine ?
have many of you played with the camshafts in these engines and if so 
what grinds did you come up with ?
i'd love to have a delorean but they are pretty thin on the ground in 
australia and as far as i know are not allowed to run on the roads in 
the state i live in due to emission control even though we run the 
volvo and peugeot with the same engine
thanks in advance
pugrambo




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:52:34 +0200 (CEST)
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: automatic governor

Does anyone have the electric layout of the automatic governor?

Klaus Steiner
Germany
#05980



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:26:47 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: Cooling fan rewire update

There have been some postings recently about "my" cooling fan rewire procedure, a conversion actually written by Harold McElrath, and edited and published by me.  Its a very low-cost way to fix the inherent cooling fan overload, one which has been used by lots of owners over the years.  I recognize the other side of the argument, that you should not modify the stock wiring, but firmly believe that if something is designed and built poorly, you should fix it.  While the expensive "plug and play" unit works, it is still a band-aid in some respects - it doesn't correct the error, it just works around it.

Anyway, my newly acquired project car came with one of the "expensive units" still in the box.  I quickly found out why it was still in the box - the car had no fan fail relay socket to plug it into.  Lesson number one - "plug and play" only works if someone hasn't already modified the car.  Without knowing what he had, the prior owner let himself be convinced he needed this unit.  But it wouldn't work in his car.  Lesson number two - and this is important - if you do modify the wiring, clearly document it.  I always glue a properly modified copy of the relay/fuse schematic to the underside of the relay compartment cover.

And if you do choose to modify the cooling fan circuit by splitting the load onto a second relay as my/our procedure explains,  here is lesson number three - think about what you are doing, don't just blindly start changing.  Since this car had already been modified (incorrectly) I went back to my own way of doing it.  Even though these directions have been published and used for well over 10 years, I got out a copy and thought about every step and what it was doing.  And guess what - in spite of lots of people using these instructions over many years without a single complaint, I FOUND AN ERROR IN MY OWN WRITE-UP!

This is what the text currently says: "The cooling fan breaker should have a brown/orange wire from the battery and a brown/slate or black/orange wire leading to the fan fail relay socket." ... "The brown wire mentioned in the paragraph above should also have a new ring terminal added and be attached to the "ACC" terminal of the new cooling fan breaker."    

WRONG.  Brown wires are "hot" wires.  The large brown wire goes to the BAT terminal on the cooling fan circuit breaker; the brown/orange and brown/slate or black/orange wires both now go on the ACC terminal.  So all of you who have performed this conversion, please check your wiring to make sure it is correct (it will work the other way but bypasses the breaker, not something you want to do).  I know the purists will take this as one more reason why you should not modify your wiring.  I like to look at it as someone being willing to admit when he made a mistake and helping to correct it.

And for the cost of one standard relay, I still think its a good way to go.


Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 09:39:40 +0200 (CEST)
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement

Martin, 

I did this replacement on some cars, but I hate all the work in small
room of the engine compartment. I removed the engine (with bolt on
transmission), did all the work and put it back. (First time for
removing and putting it back was 10 hours, now I need 5 hours). 

If the engine is out, you can fix and clean a lot more things.
Pictures from my first 'engineout' on
http://www.steinerklaus.de/dmc/engine00/index.htm

Just my 2cents.

Klaus Steiner
Germany
#05980



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 17:32:23 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: PRV V6

Hi

The DeLorean uses the emission controlled version of the odd-firing 
engine. It's extremely clean, even by today's standards.

I guess you haven't seen http://www.deloreanaustralia.com/

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458
DOC UK

pugrambo_au wrote:

>hello
>i am new to this group but have a similar interest in the PRV engine 
>as i own 604 peugeots
>did the delorean ever have the odd fire engine or were they all the 
>even fire engine ?



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