From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1177
Date: Friday, August 30, 2002 7:54 PM

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There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Jumping D
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Neglectful Owner
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

3. Re: Jumping D
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

4. Re: Jumping D
From: Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie>

5. Re: Mirror switch broke
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

6. Cat Bypass Power Gains & Steam Clean
From: "James Russell Grant" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Jumping D
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. RE: Mirror switch broke
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

9. Re: Hoses replaced, still leaking
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Jumping D
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Brakes
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

12. Re: Neglectful Owner
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: SUPER HOT Engine .. Need Some more help please!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Gas leak
From: Aaron King <floodle_at_dml_softhome.net>

15. Re: Jumping D
From: Aaron King <floodle_at_dml_softhome.net>

16. Re: Eurofest 2002
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche_at_dml_att.net>

17. RE: Brakes
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

18. RE: Gas leak
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Gas leak
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. AW:Jumping D
From: klaus-peter.steiner_at_dml_rweplus.com

21. Re: Brakes
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 00:31:40 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Jumping D

Yes..Many times....I would start with your fuel pump and make sure the rubber 
hose is still connected (clamped) to it...chances are your rubber fuel hose 
has come off or is torn at the clamp....Usually, the problem does not appear 
until the tank gets below half full because the pump itself sits about half 
way inside the tank so the problem is hidden...think of it like cutting a big 
hole in a straw then trying to take a sip....nothing but air...

Call Debbie at PJ Grady and order a new hose or check out John Herverys 
website and order his new main fuel line kit....

Mike C
2109
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 06:47:55 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Neglectful Owner

Nothing. A new owner is the only thing that will get this car running both 
properly, and constantly. People like that will always be stubborn, and you 
can't motivate them to change their ways. Tony Robbins could show up in a 
Snap-On truck, and they would still make lame excuses on why they CAN'T 
work on the car! When I took my D in for a new clutch, I was surprised to see 
another sitting in the bay next to mine. It looked familiar, and upon closer 
inspection, I discovered that it was a car that I had once looked over, but 
decided to pass by due to owner neglect. (spilled soda on the doors, and swirl 
marks on the stainless from the car wash). When I first saw the car 2 years 
prior, it had just come out of the shop freshly tuned.  After I left, he hadn't 
started the car again until recently. As you can guess, the entire fuel system 
was contaminated. Needless to say, it was back in the shop getting an entire 
new system. The catch was, this was the 2nd time that week it had been in. It 
seems that the owner decided to save a buck, and drained the old gas out 
himself. Nothing wrong with that. But to truly pinch pennies, he poured the old 
gas back in once he drove the car home so not to waste it! Luckily it had 
gummed up the pump before it spread back thru the system. But the mechanic 
still had to drop and clean the tank again. The mechanic was too generous 
IMO. He replaced the pump free because it was under warranty from the local 
BOSCH supplier. But did refuse to do anything else if the guy caused it 
himself. The car was repaired so he could sell it, and driving by his house a 
couple of times, it's gone. That has perhaps been the happiest I've ever felt 
about someone parting with their car.

The moral here? A bad owner is going to be a bad owner no matter what. No 
matter what the marquee or car, they will always do damage to both. The best 
thing is for them to part with the vehicle. Like my car. God love the guy who 
used to own it, 'cause I sure don't! Soild carpet, cross-over parts everywhere, 
ghetto repairs like my busted clutch M/C, and the zipties on my steering rack 
boots! Many repairs on my car have been to correct past human error. 

If you want to save the car, try getting some details, and see if you can put 
some word out to sell it. And if you want it yourself, talk to his wife. If she wants 
the car gone, and knows there's a buyer waiting, perhaps she can get farther 
in convincing the guy to sell by talking in his ear for you. He breaks down, you 
have cash, she calls you, the car is yours. Kinda sneaky I know, but you do 
what works.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 00:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Jumping D

Yep, only it was happening to me when I got down to a quarter tank. It
turned out that my fuel pickup hose was ripped right below where it
connects to the fuel pump.

Remove your carpet and spare tire access panel to get to the fuel boot.
Take it apart so that you can pull the fuel pump out. Go slow and be
careful if you haven't done it before. You can get a new pickup hose from
any delorean vendor. Or you might want to look at John Hervey's new setup.
I saw pictures on his website the other day and thought it was a quite
brilliant modification.

www.specialtauto.com

-Christian



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Message: 4
Date: 29 Aug 2002 09:41:41 +0100
From: Nick Ryan <nick_at_dml_imagenow.ie>
Subject: Re: Jumping D

I have this exact problem currently. It used to be at the 1/4 tank level and has now moved up to the half full level. If you floor the Car from rest, it will lunge, but is okay once moving (2nd, 3rd etc). Is it anything to do with lines going into the tank?

Nick




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 05:55:54 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Mirror switch broke

If you don't want to spend $60 on a replacement, here's my solution: 

Use a switch from a Saab 900: http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html

-Hank




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 12:55:47 +0000
From: "James Russell Grant" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Cat Bypass Power Gains & Steam Clean

Martin,

Before you put the bypass pipe in could you some how measure the power 
output of it with the Cat on?  I suppose that you really need a dyno test 
which I guess would cost money!.

Also do you still make regular trips to the Diesel Centre? I am going to 
have to come along soon and have a number of things done. Now that I have an 
income I can start spending some money.

Also I had my chassis steam cleaned at work where we have an industrial 
power steam cleaner and the chassis has come up like new! absolutly amazing 
I have never used a proper steam cleaner before, this one is designed for 
cleaning trucks and is very powerful.

Regards

James RG

_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:31:31 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Jumping D

Chris, Unless you have a defective fuel pump. It sounds like it won't self 
prime . It's either wore out or defective. Are you sure there are no breaks 
or blockages in the pick up line.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:45:19 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Mirror switch broke

I have had this bookmarked for a while. I knew it would com ein handy
someday! 

http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html



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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 14:26:01 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hoses replaced, still leaking

Reasons for a leak on the left pipe:
Loose hose clamp
Defective hose or incorrect hose
Corrosion on pipe not cleaned off before replacing hose
Crack or some other defect on end of pipe
Leaking otterstadt switch seal
If the fan belt cut into the hose then the coolant will run down to 
the pipe looking like a leak from the pipe.
The way to do this is to get a pressure tester, pump up the system a 
little and find the source of the leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> I recently had my hoses replaced and am still having a pretty 
substantial leak from my left engine coolant hose.  It seems to be 
coming right from where the hose goes into the pipe.  Is this just a 
clamp problem or is something else going on?
> 
> Please e-mail privately if you can help.  Thank you,
> 
> Richard in CA
> RJRavalli_at_dml_a...




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 14:33:12 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Jumping D

You're going to have to "dig in" to the fuel tank to find out what is 
going on in there. You have a problem with the suction hose and or 
baffles in the fuel tank. A missing or damaged suction hose can cause 
these symptoms. Drain ALL of the fuel, remove the fuel pump, wipe out 
the fuel tank, and inspect carefully the suction hose and baffles. 
Replace any deteriorated or missing parts. Be careful when 
reinstalling the fuel pump and boot, if you don't install correctly 
and turn it you can kink the suction hose. Some of us have installed a 
spring inside the suction hose to prevent it from kinking or 
collapsing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 10:36:15 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Brakes

On the highway, I hit the brakes hard a few times in a short span, and
nearly died when the car nearly wouldn't stop in the "safety" area I thought
I had.  If I was going to replace the stock brakes with something better,
could someone who has already done it please email me personally.
Thanks.

Marv
# 17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com





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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 14:43:59 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Neglectful Owner

It shouldn't be too big a job to at least get the motor running again. 
I would start by removing all of the fuel from the gas tank and wiping 
it out. Put a gallon in and run the fuel pump by jumping the RPM relay 
or just turning the key on and off a few times. Now remove that fuel, 
wipe out again and put 2-3 gallons of fresh fuel in. With a fully 
charged battery it should start up. The O2 sensor may have to be 
replaced. Things are never this easy so expect many parts to be 
deteriorated or missing especially in the fuel tank. Worst case may 
require removing and cleaning or replacing the spark plugs. In any 
case buying a "D" that isn't running is buying a "parts" car as until 
you get it to run you really don't know what it will take to get it 
running.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 14:53:38 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: SUPER HOT Engine .. Need Some more help please!

The Catalytic Converter is supposed to run hot, but it shouldn't glow 
red. If it is glowing then you are getting raw fuel to it usually 
because the engine is running too rich or maybe the cold start valve 
is open or leaking. The high idle speed is caused by someting not 
set-up correctly, vacuum leaks, or maybe sonmeone switched the plugs 
on the cold start valve and the pressure regulater, that is only 
supposed to be done for a short time to test for a bad fuel 
accumulater. Be sure to plug the access hole above the mixture screw 
or you have a massive vacuum leak, you really shouldn't mess with the 
mixture as it usually isn't too far off and is very sensitive. Check 
the 3 brass screws on the intake, they should be lightly seated 
closed. Check that the throttle plates close all the way, the floor 
mats aren't keeping the pedal from retuning all the way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 13:02:05 -0700
From: Aaron King <floodle_at_dml_softhome.net>
Subject: Gas leak

Hopefully someone can help me with this annoying problem that has cropped up 
recently.  Mark Vanyo (of the PNDC) and I just recently finished replacing 
the auto trans governor in my car.  All seemed to go successfully, but not it 
seems I have a different problem.  When the car is idling (I haven't tried 
taking it out with a gas leak) there is gas leaking from the coldstart valve.  
I'm pretty sure that's it, sticking out from the driver's side of the engine.  
There is a hose that goes from the coldstart valve to the fuel distributor I 
think, and it appears to be leaking from that hose right where it goes into 
the coldstart valve.  Mark and I thought it might just be loose, so we put 
hose clamps on that line.  No dice.  Still leaks gasoline all over the place.  
Any ideas?

Thanks!

Aaron King
Bothell, WA
vin#1217



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 12:54:05 -0700
From: Aaron King <floodle_at_dml_softhome.net>
Subject: Re: Jumping D

Chris,

My car had the exact same symptoms when I first started driving it.  It turned 
out that I needed a new fuel pickup hose in the gas tank.  My fuel pump was 
picking up gas right from the top of the tank.  Once the gas level got low, 
it would sputter and die often.  I bought a new pickup hose and baffle from 
PJ Grady and it had worked fine ever since..

Aaron King
Bothell, WA
vin#1217



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:25:20 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Eurofest 2002

To expand on what Brian said, for the past 4 years (these are the only years
that I have participated), we have had our own class, but we have not yet
had enough cars show for there to be 3 places awarded.  In fact, it seems
like we are always one car short (we need 7 for 3 awards to be given).  It
is a great event!  Most of the shows that it seems that we participate in
are British shows.  This one is an European show.  Therefore, any marque
from Europe is invited.  The number of cars that appear for the show is
amazing and you can see am amazing array of cars that you won't see at any
other single show.  Last year, two gull wing Mercedes were there as well as
Panteras, Ferraris, BMW, Porsche, ........  It is a huge list to say the
least.  I highly recommend that any of you that do not have plans for that
weekend should come to this show - especially those of you from Atlanta as
it is very close to the event!  Let's have a large turnout to show how
strong our Marque truly is!

See you there ...... right?

Sean Howley
VIN#2345




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:55:05 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Brakes

When is the last time you flushed and bleed the brakes.  You might have
water or air in the system.

Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031



-----Original Message-----
From: Marvin [mailto:marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com]
Subject: [DML] Brakes


On the highway, I hit the brakes hard a few times in a short span, and
nearly died when the car nearly wouldn't stop in the "safety" area I thought
I had.  If I was going to replace the stock brakes with something better,
could someone who has already done it please email me personally.
Thanks.

Marv
# 17707



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:57:35 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Gas leak

Either replace the two copper gaskets (washers) or polish them on a piece of
very fine wet/dry sand paper or emery cloth.  Make sure that the washers are
clean and flat.  Good practice is to use the copper washers once, then toss.

Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031



-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron King [mailto:floodle_at_dml_softhome.net]
Subject: [DML] Gas leak

 I have a different problem.  When the car is idling (I haven't tried
taking it out with a gas leak) there is gas leaking from the coldstart
valve.
There is a hose that goes from the coldstart valve to the fuel distributor I
think, and it appears to be leaking from that hose right where it goes into
the coldstart valve.



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 23:28:22 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas leak

Aaron, there is a hard plastic line under the outer rubber covering. You 
can't fix it. About the only thing you can do is replace the whole line. 
Sometimes the barbed fitting on the connector it's self will fracture and 
leak. Again, the best thing to do is replace the whole line. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< Hopefully someone can help me with this annoying problem that has cropped 
up recently.  When the car is idling (I haven't tried taking it out with a gas leak) there is gas leaking from the coldstart valve.  
 Any ideas?
  >>



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:52:07 +0200
From: klaus-peter.steiner_at_dml_rweplus.com
Subject: AW:Jumping D

	Chris, 

	the problem is the fuel hose inside the tank (connecting fuel-pump
to baffle).
	There's a hole in the hose or the hose is not connected to the fuel
pump (maybe a loose clamp).  

	Klaus Steiner
	Germany
	#05980


> Message: 6
>    Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:33:21 +0100
>    From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
> Subject: Jumping D
> 



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:48:04 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brakes

Marv, with a good set of tyres, the stock brakes can be extremely 
effective. I've had another owner as a passenger in my car, and in 
traffic on the motorway, I did the not paying attenction trick and 
suddenly realised the car in front had stopped again. I knew the 
DeLorean would stop, but Claire thought we were going to hit him. Why? 
Because in her words "our car wouldn't have stopped".

My car is a genuine 5000 miler and still has the original discs and 
pads. I have Pirelli tyres. You really have to stand on the anchors to 
make it skid, otherwise it digs its nose in and stops extremely well.

May I siggest before you go spending a lot of money, just have your 
calipers serviced and flush the system - and perhaps invest in the 
stainles braided brake lines? (I haven't as yet)

Martin
#1458



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