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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1179
Date: Sunday, September 01, 2002 3:37 PM

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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Arm Rest Extension
From: Christian Williams <>

2. 82 DeLorean for sale

3. Re: Hoses replaced, still leaking

4. Re: Re. Brakes and servicing of callipers.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>

5. Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight
From: Sam Alexander <>

6. Canadian Cars
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>

7. Idle speed
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>

8. Starting problem
From: "BDM" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 14:23:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <>
Subject: Arm Rest Extension

I can't find a price on for an armrest extension. I'm talking
about the piece that is by your hip as you're sitting in the car. Are
there any extras of these around? Does anyone want to sell me a pair?



Message: 2
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 19:52:04 EDT
Subject: 82 DeLorean for sale

Hey all,

in my local newspaper there is an 82 DeLorean for sale about 2 hours away 
from me.  one owner, 22K miles, $22K.  it says is in great shape.  if anyone 
is interested i can make a trip to go see it - i tried to on friday but the 
weather got in my way.  i will try again if anyone out there is interested.  
it is located in Lakota, North Dakota and owned by a middle-aged British 
couple with Rottweilers!

1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 22:17:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Hoses replaced, still leaking

Did you check the pipe itself for corrosion. It's not uncommon to find pin 
holes corroded thru the aluminum pipe. If theyre outside the hose clamp area 
they will continue to leak.


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 03:58:58 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <>
Subject: Re: Re. Brakes and servicing of callipers.

The problem with brake fluid being hydoscopic is not so much the water 
content being "squishy" as when the fluid heats up and the water boils 
the steam is squishy or another way to look at is is now it is a gas 
and is compressable, when it was a liquid it is noncompressable. This 
is the most important reason to flush out and change the brake fluid 
every two years. Also when there is a high moisture content in the 
brake fluid it corrodes the metal parts internal to the system causing 
leaks. If the system has not been flushed for a long time and the 
fluid is very dark flushing with fresh fluid will wash out all the 
crud that has been keeping the seals from leaking so you will find 
yourself rebuilding everything. Before attempting to flush inspect the 
area around the master cylinder for any signs of moisture, this 
indicates a leak and before you flush the system replace the master 
cylinder and be ready to replace or rebuild the calipers. If the 
brakes don't seem as effective as they should make sure there is 
vacuum present at the booster, check the hose isn't kinked or leaking. 
It could also be that the system is so corroded that a caliper is 
stuck reducing braking power. On a properly functioning brake system 
in a Delorean the brakes should be good, maybe it's time to change the 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 5
Date: 01 Sep 2002 00:26:08 -0500
From: Sam Alexander <>
Subject: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight

Hi.  I've been wanting to leap into my first DeLorean for many years,
but in my research and talking to others, I've found some reasons which
might prompt me to reconsider.  I'd like the opinion of the group on the

I'm no mechanic and I've never torn down or rebuilt an engine, but I
used to own an older Chevy which needed attention quite a bit... so I'm
used to reading manuals and fixing stuff myself.  If I purchase a
DeLorean that needed some engine work, but had a sound engine, could I
work on this myself and get parts easily from my local hardware store or
online?  Also, are there sufficient manuals and books to help with this?

I've read that there were many factory defects with the DeLorean, most
notably the fiberglass under the stainless steel breaking and the
electrical system flaking out.  Are there any issues like this I should
be aware of or ways to fix them?

Finally, the way the body is setup, how hard is it to repair dents or
dings?  I know I couldn't easily replace a bumper if someone backed into
me or bondo/repaint the door if someone gives me a major ding.  What are
my options here?

With this said, let me give my goals.  If I find a good DeLorean and
rebuild it, it won't be a daily driver.  I want to take it to shows,
drive around town from time to time, and just have because they're just
so dang cool :)  

Anyway, thanks for the great info.  I've been reading through the DML
and it looks like there's some great folks out there that hopefully will
give a newbie to this a hand from time to time.

Thanks and take care,

Sam Alexander


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:09:25 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
Subject: Canadian Cars

This car on EBay:-

States that it is 1 of 100 made for Canada. Is this correct? were there only
100 originally sent there and if so what is the difference to the US cars.
The reason I ask is I believe my car is Canadian spec due to the 240kph
speedo. What else ???

Paul & Mel


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 15:37:19 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
Subject: Idle speed

When I first start my car from cold it idles at 950rpm as it warms up the
idle slowly increases to about 1200rpm when up to standard temp it never
drops below 1200 rpm.


Where should I start looking. Is my idle speed box of tricks behind the
drivers seat playing up? and how do I test it. It seems to make no
difference if its plugged in or not.

Thanks in advance

Paul & Mel


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:53:50 -0500
From: "BDM" <>
Subject: Starting problem

My DeLorean was stalled recently and would not start.  As it turned out the fuel pump was not properly grounded.  After a complete diagnosis with the excellent help from Steve and Warren from DeLorean Motors in Houston via cell phone, I discovered that the plug in the left front fender well was "charred" and the fuel pump "ground" was lost .  This plug is located inside the left front fender where the windshield bottle is located.  You must jack the car up and remove 8 or 9 bolts then drop the bottle and the plugs.  My plug was charred on 2 wires and I merely clipped both wires and replaced them with single connectors.  Afterwards the car fired right up and now runs perfectly.  

If you are having intermittent starting problems or a complete failure then this plug should be examined.  Of course you should first examine the inertia switch, rpm relay and the ceramic connectors in the engine compartment first.  But this plug is definitely a potential problem that should be anticipated in our DeLoreans.

Many thanks to Steve and Warren at DeLoren Motor Company in Houston for their patience and help over the last several days for helping me fix this problem.  

Bobby Mims
Tyler, Texas

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