From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1180
Date: Monday, September 02, 2002 1:24 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Starting problem
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

3. DeLorean giveaway
From: "mgabrys1998" <mgabrys_at_dml_indiego.ntw.net>

4. STARTING PROBLEMS
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>

5. more idle speed issues
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

6. The DeLorean Comunity
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>

7. Re: Idle speed
From: <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

8. Re: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Arm Rest Extension
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Canadian Cars
From: JVC220_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: STARTING PROBLEMS
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: Idle speed
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: STARTING PROBLEMS
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. My car aspires to be a static model... long help request
From: "argent486" <argentum_at_dml_hit.net>

15. Constant tripping of the cooling fan breaker
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

16. Re: more idle speed issues
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Idle speed
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: STARTING PROBLEMS
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: DeLorean giveaway
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

21. Online "DeLorean Drive" Game
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>

22. Re: Constant tripping of the cooling fan breaker
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: Constant tripping of the cooling fan breaker
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

24. DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour III
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Fall Foliage Tour- I might need a seat
From: "Aaron Crocco" <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 14:06:29 EDT
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight

In a message dated 9/1/02 2:03:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sam_at_dml_totallynerd.com writes:

<< I've read that there were many factory defects with the DeLorean, most
 notably the fiberglass under the stainless steel breaking and the
 electrical system flaking out.   >>

i never heard of the fiberglass breaking under the stainless steel.  Who told 
you that?

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 14:35:57 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Starting problem


On Sunday, September 1, 2002, at 11:53  AM, BDM wrote:

> My DeLorean was stalled recently and would not start.  As it turned out 
> the fuel pump was not properly grounded.  After a complete diagnosis 
> with the excellent help from Steve and Warren from DeLorean Motors in 
> Houston via cell phone, I discovered that the plug in the left front 
> fender well was "charred" and the fuel pump "ground" was lost .  This 
> plug is located inside the left front fender where the windshield 
> bottle is located.
<<<snip>>>
>  But this plug is definitely a potential problem that should be 
> anticipated in our DeLoreans.

This is good advice.  This plug is also a good place to look if you are 
having *any* strange problem with front-clip electrics. This includes 
weak windshield washer pump, flaky headlights and turn-signal "fast 
flash" syndrome in the absence of bad bulbs. The charring that Bobby 
mentioned was likely caused by high current through dirty contacts in 
the connector (the same thing that happens in the fuse box).  Cleaning 
and tightening the pins in this connector is good hygiene.

-Pete




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 21:01:43 -0000
From: "mgabrys1998" <mgabrys_at_dml_indiego.ntw.net>
Subject: DeLorean giveaway

FuncoLand / GameStop and Take 2 are giving away a 1981 
DeLorean with 25000
(or less) miles on it:

http://www.gamestop.com/gs/gta3giveaway/sweepstakes.asp

I'm guessing between the millage and the 25k prize valuation 
that DMC
Houston might be involved (or some DMC reseller?)? It's a tie-in 
to Grand
Theft Auto Vice City which is the 1980s Miami Vice styled sequal 
to GTA3
which is coming out next month, and is rumored to feature the 
DMC12 within
the game as well.

BTW / FYI: Not working for any of the companies - but am a fan of 
the GTA
series.




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 07:44:37 +1000
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>
Subject: STARTING PROBLEMS

I read with interest Bobby Mims 'chared wire' problem.   I have a starting 
problem, too.   When cold, the car starts beautifully, but when hot, it 
sometimes doesn't want to start at all.   When it does finally crank over, 
the engine sounds like it's running on one or two cylinders, then gradually 
it pick-ups and runs OK.  In trying to isolate the problem, I've replaced 
the coil, condenser and also run injector cleaning products with the fuel.

Recently I bought a can of Instant Start and sprayed some of it into the 
throttle body which seemed to help in getting the engine started, but I 
think the problem is elsewhere.   If it were a chared wire, then I'd 
probably encounter starting problems when the engine is cold also.  A 
little embarrassing at times when people are watching and the 'D' won't start!!

Recently I checked the fuel pump wiring while sourcing another problem 
which turned out to be damaged to the wiring harness inside the centre console.

Would appreciate any ideas or possible solutions.

Lance
Australia




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 18:18:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: more idle speed issues

 ok I know idle speed is something thrown about around the DML about every other post... but... My Delorean has never ran at correct idle since I've had it. Very occasionally it will just run as smooth as hell at around 950 until I take off (I can rev just fine, but it i put any load it and move a bit it stops idling well). Normally it idles at around 1500 rpm, which is not too loud or too off the wall for me to have fixxed it... yet.The car is timed correctly, and the belts are new. But it needs new ignition wires and spark plgus, probably a distributer, and it's coming up on an oil change. I've heard about the O2 sensor too... I'm not sure of it's function or how it could come into play here... can someone brief me on it... a little 101 if you will.Other possibly related things. the car lacks an ignition coil cover, and on start up every morning it severly bogs down until you've gone about 1/2 mile and then it runs okay (but still at 1500 rpm idling). The car has a new fuel pump and filter, and new thermotime switch. When the car is around 1/16 a tank of gas it starts to gulp air and thus bog severly... but i've been told it's because it lacks a baffle at the bottom of the fuel tank. i'd appreciate any help possible! -James La Londe1981 Delorean DMC-12 vin#001697 LicPlate DMC XII1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 8001992 Ford Probe GT

------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 19:12:46 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike_at_dml_ninja.net>
Subject: The DeLorean Comunity

This is Mike A. from the DeLorean Mailing List.  I am still just an aspiring owner at the moment, but let me tell you... The DeLorean is one hell of a car and community to be a part of.  Parts are still everywhere to include DMC Houston, P.J. Grady New York, DeLorean Motor Center and DeLorean One California, Specialty Automotive, Special T Auto,  and a slew of others.  SS with dents can be fixed by any SS expert out there and the grain refinished.  Volvo dealers out there are willing to work on the engine, and as you have been reading this, general advice from a rather huge community is an email away.  Some may be speculative, but everybody means well.  True tech information is available from all the above mentioned placed and more for free.  With only several thousand cars out there, these people do not chose to work in this area for the love of money.  The heart takes over and it is done for the love of the car,  with enough potential owners out there to hold a decent business.  Personally, I could not think of a better classic fun car.  The price is great, whatever you put into it will come back to you if you sell it, part are available everywhere, whatever parts are exhausted, new one are constantly being made (switches, door struts, door handles, etc.), and the car draws as much attention or more than a Ferrari or Porsche.  In fact, the lame Flux capacitor jokes are probably the worst part of owning the car!  Just about every owner on the list could probably vouch for that.  List,email me otherwise, I would like to know what is worse!  It's the only serious bitching and moaning that goes on here! (Not that I'm complaining, it's hysterical to read.)  I'll include a list of good web sites that provide great parts, service, and tech advice.  It's my accumulation of sites and list, if I missed any, please add.  Best of luck to you in your search for your fun car, and God Speed.

-Mike
VIN# - Working on that....

The vendor Web Pages:
www.delorean.com
www.pjgrady.com
www.deloreanparts.com
www.delorean-parts.com
www.delorean-steel-products.com
www.specialtauto.com
www.deloreanmotorcenter.com
www.deloreanone.com
www.delorean-cars.com
www.midstatedmc.com
www.deloreanservices.com and www.dmc.tv
www.pearcedesign.com
www.dmc-service.nl


O.K. list, what did I miss?  There has to be other vendors outside of the U.S.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 23:01:33 -0400
From: <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed

If it gets to 1200 and never drops below I'd take a look at the linkage.
Mine was similar-- except that I could make it get down by kicking it a couple
of times.
I loosened the three bolts on the linkage plate and pulled it forward and
moved and back a little until I got it right. Not rocket science, but not
voodoo either.

On Sun, 1 Sep 2002 15:37:19 +0100 Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_ntlworld.com>
wrote:

> When I first start my car from cold it idles at
> 950rpm as it warms up the
> idle slowly increases to about 1200rpm when up
> to standard temp it never
> drops below 1200 rpm.
> 
> WHY?
> 
> Where should I start looking. Is my idle speed
> box of tricks behind the
> drivers seat playing up? and how do I test it.
> It seems to make no
> difference if its plugged in or not.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Cheers
> Paul & Mel
> #6463



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 03:04:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight

You're going to get a thousand replies to this one...

> I'm no mechanic and I've never torn down or rebuilt an engine, but I
> used to own an older Chevy which needed attention quite a bit... so I'm
> used to reading manuals and fixing stuff myself.  If I purchase a
> DeLorean that needed some engine work, but had a sound engine, could I
> work on this myself and get parts easily from my local hardware store or
> online?  Also, are there sufficient manuals and books to help with this?

This applies to any older car, not just DeLoreans: SOME mechanical
aptitude is absolutely necessary. Shop labor rates will break the
bank. The gorillas that populate the auto repair industry often do
more harm than good. Of course some things will need to be farmed out,
but the more you can do yourself: the cheaper it will be, the more
likely it will be done correctly, and the more satisfied you will be
with the car in general.

Not much of anything for a D is available in a junkyard. Most engine
consumables (ignition, hoses, etc) are cross referenceable at parts
houses. The esoteric stuff is widely available from DeLorean vendors.
Browse their websites -- you'll be amazed at what's out there (I've
found their prices on SOME consumables to be competitive too)

> I've read that there were many factory defects with the DeLorean, most
> notably the fiberglass under the stainless steel breaking and the
> electrical system flaking out.  Are there any issues like this I should
> be aware of or ways to fix them?

Every car ever built has designed in defects. The DeLorean has more
than my beloved Lincolns, but it also never had the benefit of a 10
year production run. None of these defects can not be overcome.
Approached in a proper frame of mind, engineering their solution is
actually rather fun. Debugging a car is also one of the best ways to
familiarize yourself with it intimately (that knowledge is invaluable
when something goes wrong -- and it will), and it has the very real
potential of permanently endearing the vehicle to you forever.

I've never heard of a pontoon just breaking without provocation (I
hope not -- that's the only thing holding me off the pavement).

> Finally, the way the body is setup, how hard is it to repair dents or
> dings?  I know I couldn't easily replace a bumper if someone backed into
> me or bondo/repaint the door if someone gives me a major ding.  What are
> my options here?

This is why they taught you defensive driving in driver's ed.
Stainless steel can be reworked (look at Amtrak) depending on the
nature of impact, but it's a specialized skill. Just about every body
component EXCEPT the pontoon itself can be replaced from one D vendor
or another -- for a price. Bottom line: watch out for the other
drivers, don't park in vehicular mosh pits (leave the D at home during
XMas shopping), but don't hide the thing away never to be driven.
That's a fate worse than chancing a "major ding."
 
> With this said, let me give my goals.  If I find a good DeLorean and
> rebuild it, it won't be a daily driver.  I want to take it to shows,
> drive around town from time to time, and just have because they're just
> so dang cool :)  

Don't buy a D just because they're cool (they are). Buy one because it
represents an important piece of auto history worth preserving. Buy
one because they really are well designed and constructed cars capable
of 100,000's of miles. Buy one because they handle like tenacious
little sleds on rails.

BTW: if you only drive the car "from time to time," it may give you
nothing but trouble. Sitting idle spells "death" for a car, and
DeLoreans seem especially susceptible. Once a car is debugged and in
service, it desperately needs regular exercise.

Just some thoughts from a man with 7 cars in his driveway (all
running, thank you very much -- even the constipated D), the most
RECENT of which is a 1981 DeLorean.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 03:11:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Arm Rest Extension

They come under the category 8-7-5, as part of the whole trim panel.
Houston's website was having trouble this weekend, but Rob Grady shows
them OK.

Bill Robertson
#5939


>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I can't find a price on delorean.com for an armrest extension. I'm
talking
> about the piece that is by your hip as you're sitting in the car. Are
> there any extras of these around? Does anyone want to sell me a pair?
> 
> -Christian




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 23:15:05 EDT
From: JVC220_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Canadian Cars

Paul and Mel,

       I am the owner of a Canadian spec car and it is VIN 17086.  I have 
found that all the Canadian cars are the 17xxx series of VIN #'s.  The list 
of VIN #'s that I have says that your car, 6463, was built in Oct-81 and was 
imported to Magherafelt, Northern Ireland.  If you (or anybody else on the 
list) would like, e-mail me and I can send you the pdf. that has a very good 
list of vins.  I don't remember where I got this from but it was one of the 
major Delorean (vender?) sites.  I hope this info helps. 

Adam
#17086


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 03:32:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: STARTING PROBLEMS

Until the engine is actually up & running, you depend on gas stored in
the accumulator (DeLorean don't energize the pump until a certain RPM
-- anybody know what it is BTW?). But the accumulator diaphragm does
not live forever, failing to hold fuel or pressurize the system. When
cold, your cold start valve shoots raw gas into the intake, giving the
engine enough fuel to bypass such a difficulty. You can swap its
electrical plug with the control pressure regulator's to do the same
hot, but do so judiciously -- the engine will flood within seconds.
You can also jump the fuel pump relay, forcing the pump to spin as
soon as the car is energized.

Make sure you don't have a Brand X fuel pump without a check valve
like me, in which case the best accumulator in the world won't do any
good...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_z...> wrote:
> I read with interest Bobby Mims 'chared wire' problem.   I have a
starting 
> problem, too.   When cold, the car starts beautifully, but when hot, it 
> sometimes doesn't want to start at all.   When it does finally crank
over, 
> the engine sounds like it's running on one or two cylinders, then
gradually 
> it pick-ups and runs OK.  In trying to isolate the problem, I've
replaced 
> the coil, condenser and also run injector cleaning products with the
fuel.
> 
> Recently I bought a can of Instant Start and sprayed some of it into
the 
> throttle body which seemed to help in getting the engine started, but I 
> think the problem is elsewhere.   If it were a chared wire, then I'd 
> probably encounter starting problems when the engine is cold also.  A 
> little embarrassing at times when people are watching and the 'D'
won't start!!
> 
> Recently I checked the fuel pump wiring while sourcing another problem 
> which turned out to be damaged to the wiring harness inside the
centre console.
> 
> Would appreciate any ideas or possible solutions.
> 
> Lance
> Australia




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 04:01:25 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed

With all of the confusion about the starting and idle speed circuits 
the first place to go is the Workshop Manual which every owner should 
have. Some of the easier things to check are the following:
Find and fix any and ALL vacuum leaks including a hissing mode switch.
Lightly seat closed the 3 brass adjusting screws on the air intake.
Verify that the throttle is closing all the way and contacting the 
idle switch micro.
Get a meter on the idle micro and make sure it conducts when the 
throttle is at idle.
Make sure there is a plug over the mixture screw on the metering unit.
If the motor hasn't had a tune-up in a long time when you finally get 
the idle down it will probably run rough which is why the idle has ben 
"bumped up". After a thourgh tune-up and cleaning-testing of the fuel 
injectors it should run smooth. You could also have a faulty contol 
pressure regulater, thermo switch, problem in the vacuum circuit for 
the vacuum advance etc. There are just a lot of things that can affect 
the idle speed and quality including timming and air-fuel ratio.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> When I first start my car from cold it idles at 950rpm as it warms 
up the
> idle slowly increases to about 1200rpm when up to standard temp it 
never
> drops below 1200 rpm.
> 
> WHY?
> 
> Where should I start looking. Is my idle speed box of tricks behind 
the
> drivers seat playing up? and how do I test it. It seems to make no
> difference if its plugged in or not.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Cheers
> Paul & Mel
> #6463
> 
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 04:09:09 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: STARTING PROBLEMS

Your symptoms would indicate the classic hard hot start problem. The 
fuel system is not holding rest pressure. Posssible causes include a 
bad fuel accumulater, bad or missing check valve on the fuel pump, or 
a leaking valve in the fuel mixture unit. Start by switching the plugs 
on the contol pressure regulater and the cold start valve to start the 
motor when hot. As soon as it starts switch the plugs back! If this 
works then next remove the return hose from the accumulater and see if 
fuel comes out from the accumulater. If it does then replace the 
accumulater and that should fix it right up. Next most likely is the 
check valve on the fuel pump and least likely is the metering unit.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_z...> wrote:
> I read with interest Bobby Mims 'chared wire' problem.   I have a 
starting 
> problem, too.   When cold, the car starts beautifully, but when hot, 
it 
> sometimes doesn't want to start at all.   When it does finally crank 
over, 
> the engine sounds like it's running on one or two cylinders, then 
gradually 
> it pick-ups and runs OK.  In trying to isolate the problem, I've 
replaced 
> the coil, condenser and also run injector cleaning products with the 
fuel.
> 
> Recently I bought a can of Instant Start and sprayed some of it into 
the 
> throttle body which seemed to help in getting the engine started, 
but I 
> think the problem is elsewhere.   If it were a chared wire, then I'd 
> probably encounter starting problems when the engine is cold also.  
A 
> little embarrassing at times when people are watching and the 'D' 
won't start!!
> 
> Recently I checked the fuel pump wiring while sourcing another 
problem 
> which turned out to be damaged to the wiring harness inside the 
centre console.
> 
> Would appreciate any ideas or possible solutions.
> 
> Lance
> Australia




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 04:15:03 -0000
From: "argent486" <argentum_at_dml_hit.net>
Subject: My car aspires to be a static model... long help request

Happy Labor Day Weekend all...

I'm slowly getting back on the ball getting VIN 961 going. I'm trying 
to get into the local car show at the end of the month. 
Not driving your new car sure teaches patience. I just finished my 
fuel tank project. (Drained and cleaned tank, replaced pump, boot, 
hoses, screen, etc.) Finally it's going to run... turned the key 
multiple times... no such luck. Car runs for 2-3 seconds on starting 
fluid and I've got good spark. No spark issues here.

My fuel pump is not getting any juice and I'd like to ask the DML 
thinktank and D gods for help. This car has always had a starting 
problem since I bought it in April. Start it right up and drive it or 
you don't. Does not matter hot or cold. One afternoon starts, another 
it does not. Gets old quick. I believe it's always been more of an 
electric problem, once it starts it runs like a champ (good battery 
and new alternator too). Although since aliens stole my battery bulb 
in the dash and with 5 minutes of running on battery only two months 
ago something may have fried. Here's my findings...

Fuel pump has ground... tested continuity to ground on negative 
terminal. Good check and with inertia switch tripped no ground. New 
switch by the way.

As far as the positive side and all that related stuff...

NEW RPM relay - tried old too no luck
NEW Main fuel/LAMBDA relay - tried old too no luck
ALL fuses are good - #7 OK
Everything else electrical works - headlights, horn, windows, fans, 
starter, buzzer, dashlights...
Pulse Coil reads 601 Ohms, tested good everytime cold/hot
Fires up on starting fluid

What could keep power from my fuel pump? Any way to test any other 
components? Ignition control unit? Unplug some regulators temporarily?
Anybody have a diagnostic computer not too far from Kansas?

Thanks for any help provided. I'm almost tempted to leave a pizza in 
the garage for the gremlins. I would be hungry after four months too.

Matt Metzinger
Arkansas City, KS 67005
VIN 961 - KS Tag: TIMELES






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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 21:36:32 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: Constant tripping of the cooling fan breaker

   Hi gang,

I've come across a problem I've not been able to solve. The circuit breaker
to the cooling fans keeps tripping when the air conditioner or the otterstat
has them switched on. It happens after the car and fans have been running
for a while and the breaker has become hot. I thought I may have just had an
old or defective breaker (40 amp) but the replacement does the same thing. I
have a FanZillia, the fuses on it are holding and both fans turn easily. Why
are they drawing so much current? I'd just jump the breaker and rely on the
fuses but That's just not a good answer.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Ken

=======================================================
Ken Montgomery	Sacramento, CA  VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/montkw/delorean/index.htm
mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com
=======================================================
 



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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 09:30:09 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: more idle speed issues

Hi James

I don't have a specific answer to your problem but I can answer several 
of your questions. That said, check your idle speed microswitch - it's 
activated by the throttle lever on top of the engine.

James La Londe wrote:

>Normally it idles at around 1500 rpm, which is not too loud or too off the wall for me to have fixxed it... yet.
>
... unless you own an automatic!

>The car is timed correctly, and the belts are new. But it needs new ignition wires and spark plgus, probably a distributer, and it's coming up on an oil change. 
>
If it runs smoothly then the plugs/dizzy/leads are doing their job. 
Still worth checking and replacing as a matter of course (esp if 
original) but I think the problem's elsewhere.

>I've heard about the O2 sensor too... I'm not sure of it's function or how it could come into play here... can someone brief me on it... a little 101 if you will.
>
The Lambda system works by measuring the oxygen present in the exhaust. 
If there's too much, the engine's running lean, if there's too little, 
it's running rich. The lambda computer adjusts the mixture "on-the-fly" 
by altering the duty cycle of the frequency valve. This is mounted to 
the top of the right bank, easily accessible by removing the air box, 
and when the engine's running, it should be buzzing like an angry 
cricket. If the lambda sensor is duff, or if you unplug it, the lambda 
computer sets itself to a constant "slightly rich" mixture. It will 
contribute to, though not cause, an idling problem

>Other possibly related things. the car lacks an ignition coil cover, and on start up every morning it severly bogs down until you've gone about 1/2 mile and then it runs okay (but still at 1500 rpm idling).
>
When the engine is cold, the fuelling is controlled by the control 
pressure regulator - the grey box on the engine on the top of the left 
bank - it has two fuel hoses going to it, plus an electric connector and 
a vacuum lead. When the engine reached a certain temperature, the lambda 
system comes into play and it is at this point that you can feel a 
sudden change in behaviour (my car used to get a lot worse suddenly). On 
what you've said, it sounds like your CPR might need attention. John 
Hervey can sell you a rebuilt unit.

>When the car is around 1/16 a tank of gas it starts to gulp air and thus bog severly... but i've been told it's because it lacks a baffle at the bottom of the fuel tank. 
>
I'm amazed you can get that low before you have problems if you're 
lacking the baffle base.

Martin
#1458




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 10:36:11 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hoping to purchase my first DeLorean, but need some insight

Sam, If you have been reading the DML list for a while you'll see we very 
seldom talk about having engine problems except trying to increase HP cheap. 
We all know there isn't any way to do that. Most of the problems are due to 
neglect in updating and just plain keeping the car up. Grounds wires, 
connectors, relays, 02 sensors, adjusting for wear, coolant level, over 
heating and so on. 
These are  20 year old cars and if they haven't been kept up then it falls on 
the next caring person to do it. That's where the valve of the car comes in. 
How has it been taken car of vs what need to be done to make it a reliable 
driving and running car.
John Hervey
www.special T auto.com
    

<< I'm no mechanic and I've never torn down or rebuilt an engine, but I
 used to own an older Chevy which needed attention quite a bit... so I'm
 used to reading manuals and fixing stuff myself.  If I purchase a
 DeLorean that needed some engine work, but had a sound engine, could I
 work on this myself and get parts easily from my local hardware store or
 online?  Also, are there sufficient manuals and books to help with this? >>



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 10:50:38 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle speed

Paul, How does it run after it warms up. There could be several things going 
on but the one thing that may be a long shot, but it sounds like the control 
pressure regulator may not be regulating the pressure on the control plunger 
and it's rising to high. The other thing I would look at would be the lower 
adjusting screw on the throttle body lever arm. The butterflies open and pass 
air in conjunction with how much the screw is turned down. In the rest 
position the buttlerflies should be closed and the idle speed motor intake 
tube should be where the air- fuel control unit get's it's air. Also, make 
sure the idle speed microswitch is working and the adjustment is correct.
John Hervey
www.special Tauto.com
  

< When I first start my car from cold it idles at 950rpm as it warms up the
 idle slowly increases to about 1200rpm when up to standard temp it never
 drops below 1200 rpm.
  >>



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 11:58:04 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: STARTING PROBLEMS

Lance, It sounds like you have the typical hot start problem. The accumulator 
needs to be replaced. The bad running will be due to the flooding in trying 
to start so many times.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< When it does finally crank over, 
 the engine sounds like it's running on one or two cylinders, then gradually 
 it pick-ups and runs OK.  >>



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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 20:41:16 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean giveaway

According to someone that I spoke with at DeLorean Motor Company, the
DeLorean will not be featured in the game itself.  Their reasoning was that
they've spent many years trying to make a good image for the car.  The
public has so many misconceptions about the car and unfortunately some
people still associate it with drugs and think of the car as a joke simply
because they don't know the truth.  He said it wasn't that they're trying to
be prudish, but the game contains rather controversial material that they
didn't want to be associated with.  Rockstar games (the publisher of the
Grand Theft Auto series) has a link to DMC on their website.  According to
them they called it "THE car of the '80s."

I'm a big fan of the game and as much as I wanted the DeLorean to be in the
game, I can understand their reasoning completely.  I wouldn't want it to be
just another joke of the '80s.

If anyone out there has anything to clear up in this matter, it would be
appreciated.

payne

> FuncoLand / GameStop and Take 2 are giving away a 1981
> DeLorean with 25000
> (or less) miles on it:



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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 23:46:18 -0500
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Online "DeLorean Drive" Game

Hey guys,

Check this out...it's an Australian site promoting the BTTF DVD
release, but there's two games that are really quite fun!  

http://www.tv1.com.au/bttf/

Pretty basic games, but for once someone came up with a BTTF
DeLorean game!

Later Days,
Robert G.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 17:30:29 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Constant tripping of the cooling fan breaker

Hi Ken

With a multimeter set to Current (most DMMs will do 20A), using the 
fan-fail socket, and the fan relay socket next to it (ie un plug the 
fanzilla) you can measure the current drawn by each fan. I expect you 
will discover neither draw more than 15A (both mine are fused at 15A and 
the fuses are fine).

The way a circuit breaker works is a bi-metalic strip - it works like a 
thermostat and breaks contact WHEN it gets hot. Extra heat can be 
generated by dirty contacts to the breaker itself, a nearby heat source, 
and a lack of ventilation. Ventilation you can't do much about, but see 
if anything next to it also gets hot, and clean or even re-crimp the 
connectors on it.

Martin
#1458

Montgomery, Ken wrote:

>   Hi gang,
>
>I've come across a problem I've not been able to solve. The circuit breaker
>to the cooling fans keeps tripping when the air conditioner or the otterstat
>has them switched on. It happens after the car and fans have been running
>for a while and the breaker has become hot. I thought I may have just had an
>old or defective breaker (40 amp) but the replacement does the same thing. I
>have a FanZillia, the fuses on it are holding and both fans turn easily. Why
>are they drawing so much current? I'd just jump the breaker and rely on the
>fuses but That's just not a good answer.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
>Ken
>





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 13:12:54 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Constant tripping of the cooling fan breaker

Ken.
 I can almost answer the question in one word. HEAT. From the current draw of 
the fans. How many miles on the fans may have the brushes worn down and they 
will draw more current which produces heat. I wouldn't keep adding higher 
current breakers, you may be masking a problem and burn up some wires. This 
is why I don't use circuit breakers in the fan circuit of The Fan Fix, I fuse 
at 15 amps and in most cases will handle the load.
If you have any current measuring equipment, the fans ( both ) coming on will 
surge at around 60 amps and run ( both ) at 28 to 30. 1/2 for ea fan. You may 
have one or both fans running sluggish and drawing more current.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< I've come across a problem I've not been able to solve. The circuit breaker
 to the cooling fans keeps tripping when the air conditioner or the otterstat
 has them switched on. It happens after the car and fans have been running
 for a while and the breaker has become hot. I thought I may have just had an
 old or defective breaker (40 amp) but the replacement does the same thing. I
 have a FanZillia, the fuses on it are holding and both fans turn easily. Why
 are they drawing so much current? I'd just jump the breaker and rely on the
 fuses but That's just not a good answer.
  >>



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 17:44:20 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour III



The DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour III will be October 19th & 20th in
New Jersey this year.

Please make your Hotel reservations immediately!
I only have 15 rooms on reserve at the Marriott in Princeton NJ 
(732) 544-9120 We have a special group rate of $105 + tax (that 
includes breakfast for two).
You must tell them that you are part of the DeLorean group to get 
this rate. (You must make the reservations before Sept 27th to get 
this rate). Here is the Itinerary for this years Fall Tour (subject 
to changes and updates).

The Tour starts at 11 AM at John DeLoreans former mansion in 
Lamington NJ.

Some of the events planned are:

Tour of the JZD mansion.
DeLorean Tech Talk with Rob Grady.
DeLorean Detailing by David Teitelbaum.
DeLorean Racing Blindfolded.

Bring your own picnic lunch and beverage!

We will leave the former DeLorean mansion and caravan to Morristown 
NJ and have dinner At the " Back In Time" café in
Morristown.

After dinner we will caravan to the Marriott in Princeton NJ (check 
in).

Activities include the  80s retro club Polly Esthers at the hotel 
(admission aprox $4 per person).

Sunday Oct 20th

Breakfast at the hotel
Check out
Caravan to New Hope PA (THIS IS A GREAT TOWN TO SPEND THE DAY)
Note: we will park on the NJ side at Lambertville station, parking is 
approximately $5.00

PLEASE MAKE YOUR HOTEL RESERVATIONS ASAP!

More information and registration info to come in the next 2 weeks

Looking forward to seeing you all !

Regards,

Michael DeLuca
Vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN







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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 13:13:21 -0400
From: "Aaron Crocco" <slider_ten_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Fall Foliage Tour- I might need a seat



  Hello,

I don't know if anyone here is going on the Fall Foliage Tour, but I might
be going alone and I would like to know if anyone else is going alone and
has an extra seat.  I took my red Plymouth last year and I'd love to
actually be in a Delorean this time.  Anyone willing to help?  Thanks.

-Aaron Crocco



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