From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1185
Date: Thursday, September 05, 2002 9:33 PM

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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean Northwest Passage Final Registration
From: "haugrd" <rdh_at_dml_hozt.com>

2. Re: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. ignition key problem
From: Rendy Cheng <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>

5. Radio install question
From: "Hank Eskin" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

6. Goodyear GT II's SWL
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Heater Core & A/C Evaporator
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 06:26:28 -0000
From: "haugrd" <rdh_at_dml_hozt.com>
Subject: DeLorean Northwest Passage Final Registration

Just a reminder that final registration for the DeLorean Owners 
Association Northwest Passage event on September 19 - 22 ends on 
September 9.

Complete details and on-line registration for this exciting DeLorean 
Driving Adventure beginning and ending in Portland Oregon is 
available at:

http://delorean-owners.org/events/2002nwp.html

Open to all DeLorean owners and enthusiasts.

Ray Haug, Internet Director
DeLorean Owners Association





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 23:51:44 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem

David,

"or defective low pressure switch'

Is the low pressure switch the one behind the right front tire.

Thanks

Mike Atkinson
vin 16232



----- Original Message -----
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 9:24 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: My Air Conditioning Problem


> From your description the compressor is running but I am assuming you
> aren't getting sufficient cooling effect. Go back to whoever converted
> you and have him check the system pressures. Your problem is not
> electrical. If your compressor is running and you aren't getting
> cooling the system isn't transferring heat which means the refrigerent
> isn't absorbing the heat from the interior and moving it out to the
> condensor coil, the problem is in the refrigeration part of the
> system, I suspect you have a very low charge of Freon or maybe even
> none and a misadjusted or defective low pressure switch, or a
> possible bad compressor. It is best if you can stay with R-12. If you
> can't there are drop-in alternatives that are a better choice than
> what you have. You should be able to find a competant A/C shop in
> Arizona, maybe James Espey could recomend one? He used to live there.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "vrvader" <dclark_at_dml_3...> wrote:
> > Air conditioning problem
> > I have run into an air conditioning problem with my D.  In Arizona
> > this is a definite problem.  Based on the symptoms below does anyone
> > know what my problem may be?  Things to note, it does not have the
> > original blue relay and it has been converted to 132a.
> >
> > Thank you all for your time in this.
> >
> > Symptoms
> >
> > ---Engine is cool (fans not on when air is off)---
> > * At idle when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary fans
> > and the compressor turn on and stay on.
> > * At 2000 RPM when the air conditioning is turned on the fans and
> > compressor cycle on and off in about one to two second intervals
> >
> > ---Engine is warm (fans are on when air is off)---
> > * At idle when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary fans
> > and the compressor turn on and stay on.
> > * At 2000 RPM when the air conditioning is turned on the auxiliary
> > fans and the compressor turn on and stay on.



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 14:12:29 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem

I disagree with #3
 The reason why the heater core is always on except in Max is just for 
that reason and for an added bonus the A/C removes some of the heat 
from the engine cooling system. It also improves the system's ability 
to quickly reduce the humidity inside the car.
 On #2 the switch may not be bad, only out of adjustment.
On #1 this is the most common reason for short cycling. Even a tiny 
leak over 20 years will eventually cause even the tightest automotive 
A/C system to short cycle. This can only be determined by getting a 
gauge set on the system and seeing what is going on. You should never 
attempt to adjust the low pressure switch without knowing the system 
pressures. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Dclark, The compressor will cycle
> #1 Because of the freon being low.
> #2. The low pressure switch may be bad.
> #3. And most common. Because of the small passenger compartment, the 
air gets 
> cold fast and there isn't enough heated air to pass over the 
evaporator core 
> in the car so the LP switch is cutting on and off to keep the system 
from 
> freezing up. Turn the fan on 3 and it will normally slow down or put 
the mode 
> switch to normal and add a little heat and again it will slow the 
cycling. 
> Either way you will be cool and comfortable inside.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:36:23 -0700
From: Rendy Cheng <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>
Subject: ignition key problem

Hi All!

This morning I turn my key to start the car.  It turns OK, but it does not 
return to it normal position.  I have physically turn it back 1 click.  
Does any one has a similar problem?  Is it fixable?  Do I have have to 
replace entire key assembly?

thank you all..

rendy  #4220




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 18:01:28 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Radio install question


Hello All,

  I just got my Alpine CDA-7894 head unit to install, and due to the
"V-drive" internal amp, it requires a direct connection to the battery, or
some suitable high-current draw positive power source.  Besides connecting
directly to the battery, can anyone suggest an equivalent connection point
in the electrical panel/fuse area?  And don't worry, the lead already has an
in-line 20A fuse.

Also, do I need to remove the binnacle to get to/replace the front/left
speaker?

Thanks,

-Hank Eskin #1619




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 21:13:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Goodyear GT II's SWL

According to my Goodyear, 235/60/15's available OK in GT II solid
white letter (I've got them turned around), but the narrowest 60/14's
available as white letter are 215's.

Eagle ST's may have come 195/60/14 if you can find a discontinued pair. 

Bill Robertson
#5939


>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "tp8534" <mpolans_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I have, Scott,
>      IMHO the Goodyear Eagle GT II beats it in every category.  I
> tried the Firehawks on my Porsche 944 before the Goodyears and the GT
> II's seem to be quieter, they warm up faster, and they last longer. 
> Just my 2 cents....YMMV.  Oh, BTW, you can get the White Letter Paint
> in a roller-tube from J.C. Whitney for $6.95.
> 
> Matthew
> VIN #10365
> VIN #16816






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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 20:07:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Heater Core & A/C Evaporator

Will people fall out if David T and I agree on something?

The heater core ALWAYS has SOME water passing through it (do you
really think that little platic shut off valve can stop all 16 lbs)
because without radiant heat the evaporator will ice over like an old
freezer. Freon evaporates at 22 degrees, well below the freezing point
of moisture in the car interior. I once bypassed a leaking heater core
in one of my Lincolns -- every 15 minutes or so I had to turn off the
A/C and defrost the evaporator with air vented from the outside world.
You'll know when your evaporator has iced over when little or no air
comes out the vents no matter the fan speed.

Notice we're talking about moisture OUTSIDE the system. Moisture
INSIDE the system indicates it was not vacuumed before charging.
Frozen water inside the system will also stop it up, leading to an
excessive pressure differential that will trip the pressure switch.

Re: removing humidity -- haven't investigated my new D that far yet
(it's still plenty warm OUTSIDE the car), but my Lincolns engage the
compressor during defrost for that very reason (to dry the air). Ever
notice all the moisture that condenses in the evaporator box?

Now, back to electricity...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I disagree with #3
>  The reason why the heater core is always on except in Max is just for 
> that reason and for an added bonus the A/C removes some of the heat 
> from the engine cooling system. It also improves the system's ability 
> to quickly reduce the humidity inside the car.





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 20:09:16 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem

The low pressure switch is usually alongside the front right wheel but 
on some cars it is behind the front left wheel on the condensor coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> David,
> 
> "or defective low pressure switch'
> 
> Is the low pressure switch the one behind the right front tire.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mike Atkinson
> vin 16232
> 
> 
> 
> 




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